| ProSeal for fore and aft seams [message #350850] |
Sat, 21 December 2019 16:09  |
Randy Hecht
Messages: 93
Registered: March 2019
Location: Roswell, GA
Karma: -5
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When I was in the Army working on assorted helicopters, we would use ProSeal 890 to seal seams on the airframe, transmission, and gearboxes seams or mounting points. It never seamed affected by the UV rays, rain, or temperature changes or ranges we operated in. Outside of cost associated with ProSeal, is there any issues with using it?
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| Re: ProSeal for fore and aft seams [message #350852 is a reply to message #350850] |
Sat, 21 December 2019 17:20  |
6cuda6
Messages: 975
Registered: June 2019
Karma: -6
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Is it rigid or flexible? How much stetch does it have before it shears?
It may be just fine but i would compare it specs to Dicor or SikaFlex just to be certain.
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
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| Re: ProSeal for fore and aft seams [message #350858 is a reply to message #350850] |
Sun, 22 December 2019 11:03 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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I wonder if the price reflects FAA approval. I'd ask the maker if they have a non-airworthy version available for less money.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: ProSeal for fore and aft seams [message #351061 is a reply to message #350850] |
Sun, 29 December 2019 21:36 |
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Richard RV
Messages: 631
Registered: July 2012
Location: Full-timer for 12 years, ...
Karma: -17
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Randy,
There's no doubt that it's a high end product and that it would work. Most sealing failures are due to insufficient surface prep and not an inadequate sealing material. With meticulous surface prep standard automotive/RV sealants work just fine for much less cost. Your money, your coach, your call.
Richard
'77 Birchaven TZE...777;
'76 Palm Beach under construction;
‘76 Edgemont waiting its turn
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| Re: [GMCnet] ProSeal for fore and aft seams [message #351064 is a reply to message #351062] |
Sun, 29 December 2019 23:25 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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It is very important that all the old sealant is removed. The joint must be
rendered totally immobile mechanically, with mechanical fasteners. Screws
or click fast rivets work well. Then, non hardening sealant, not adhesive,
can bond to both surfaces, expand and contract without shearing, or leaking.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Sun, Dec 29, 2019, 8:04 PM Randy Hecht via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> Thank you. I’d rather do the prep work than spend the cash.
>
>> On Dec 29, 2019, at 10:37 PM, Richard via Gmclist gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
>>
>> Randy,
>>
>> There's no doubt that it's a high end product and that it would work.
> Most sealing failures are due to insufficient surface prep and not an
>> inadequate sealing material. With meticulous surface prep standard
> automotive/RV sealants work just fine for much less cost. Your money, your
>> coach, your call.
>>
>> Richard
>> --
>> '77 Birchaven TZE...777
>> '76 Palm Beach with 18,477 miles on it.
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
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