Found the in-line fusible link (was what I thought it was, floppy, soft green insulation, 18 ga if I'm reading it right. I can see why some folks might feel inclined to replace it with a fuse. Just looks like it's at the end of its life) and it is intact. Insulation is intact anyway. Have checked the 25A fuse in the glovebox, and it is good (checked it 3 times, flicked it, shook it, checked out all 3 times).

Now this may sound stupid, but bear with the electrically challenged ... Is the panel flowing current both in acc and running? Or just when the engine is running? Cause when I pulled the fuse and checked for current across the clips I got a light when the engine was running, but not when ignition was in acc. Fuse panel is working from the alternator? Acc is working off the battery? I was wanting to make sure that there was actually current going across the fuse. Perfectly intact fuse means nothing if there's no current for it to carry, right?

The main power wire from the relay to the motor (directly off the battery) is OK. Pulled the top of the dash off yesterday and just checked the fan speed switch now. With the ignition in acc power coming into the switch (brown wire if I'm reading the diagrams correctly) and going out the other connections (blue &?) but not the orange (which I believe is the High), but all 3 outgoing wires light up when the ignition is running. So looks like the fan speed switch is OK. That's as far as I've got. Currently taking pictures of the wiring diagrams (too small for my eyes) so I can check the circuits based on colour, what's going where in the relays and the resistor (though the easiest way to check the resistor is probably to take it out!).

This is going to be a longish process me-thinks. Glad I have a couple of weeks. Should learn a lot about the wiring, basics at least. Let me know if I'm off on a tangent or misinterpreting something.