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| black tank removal [message #340034] |
Wed, 09 January 2019 20:04  |
skip2
Messages: 544
Registered: September 2011
Location: Winter Haven,FL (center o...
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Evening all,
I know it has been discussed but I'm thinking about dropping my black tank on my 74 canyonlands, one of the few things I haven't tackled yet. As I see it somehow the kitchen drain has to be unhooked in the spot under the electrical panel, the toilet has to be removed then it's flange unscrews from the tank, but I can't figure how the sink and shower drain unhooks before dropping the tank. One of those mental blocks, cranal flatulence you know. Any help or hints would sure be appreciated.
Thanks,
Skip hartline
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
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| Re: black tank removal [message #340045 is a reply to message #340034] |
Thu, 10 January 2019 06:02  |
skip2
Messages: 544
Registered: September 2011
Location: Winter Haven,FL (center o...
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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From what I could see, it looks as if it never has been out the bath sink/shower drain is just a slip fit with o-ring, correct?
Skip Hartline
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
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| Re: black tank removal [message #340047 is a reply to message #340045] |
Thu, 10 January 2019 07:29 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Yes. Shower drain had
The o-ring.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: [GMCnet] black tank removal [message #340050 is a reply to message #340048] |
Thu, 10 January 2019 08:36 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Usually, trying to unscrew 40 year old RV plumbing fittings is a huge
exercise in futility. A sawzall is your friend here. Much easier to fix
when they are lying on the driveway.
Jim Hupy
On Thu, Jan 10, 2019, 6:22 AM Matt Colie Skip,[/color]
>
> This is why a sigfile with the year is important. My high number '73 (23)
> had unions that were accessible after the potable tank (not a big deal) was
> removed. The problem was that one needed the worlds largest basin wrench
> to loosen them. On a 23, the both sinks, the shower drain and the vent are
> all there in two access and all were the same. A 26 with the port side
> galley will have one of those two on the other side.
>
> What was a big deal was that the fittings into the tank were steel. One
> had rusted away to nothing and the other broke when I touched it. Another
> big issue here was that the corroding iron (Iron swells as it forms scale)
> had cracked both of the threaded fittings and those cracks had cracked the
> tank too. The tank is not heavy, but be ready for a real good time
> dealing with it.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] black tank removal [message #340057 is a reply to message #340034] |
Thu, 10 January 2019 16:01 |
JerryW
Messages: 256
Registered: August 2018
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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> On Jan 9, 2019, at 7:04 PM, Skip Hartline wrote:
>
> Evening all,
> I know it has been discussed but I'm thinking about dropping my black tank on my 74 canyonlands, one of the few things I haven't tackled yet. As I see
> it somehow the kitchen drain has to be unhooked in the spot under the electrical panel, the toilet has to be removed then it's flange unscrews from
> the tank, but I can't figure how the sink and shower drain unhooks before dropping the tank. One of those mental blocks, cranal flatulence you know.
> Any help or hints would sure be appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Skip hartline
>
Skip
You have three tubes sticking down into the top of the tank.
One is the toilet pipe, another is from the shower drain/sink drain/ vent tube.
The third is from the kitchen sink.
The shower/sink drain slides down into a fitting that has a groove for a square O ring. These are prone to leakage and often result with sewage all over the top of the tank.
The kitchen one has a metal flange similar to the screw on ring on a trap below your house sink.
If you look at http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3276-kitchen-sink-drain-to-holding-tank.html
you’ll see how to upgrade the kitchen sink drain.
As to the slip fitting it is best to replace it with half of a rubber coupling. This will be easier and prevent sewage leaking. You can fasten it to the top of the tank with a stainless steel spiral clamp. Then when you put the tank up you can attach the pipe from the shower/ sink by putting it into the rubber coupling and fastening it from the top with a clamp. You may have to cut some from from the bottom of the vent pipe. It will be necessary to remove the water tank when working from the top. It is also a good time to cover the area around the pipe (the mouse hole) with some flashing so as to prevent mice from getting into your motorhome. See here: http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4986-holding-tank-top-fitting.html
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
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| Re: [GMCnet] black tank removal [message #340058 is a reply to message #340057] |
Thu, 10 January 2019 16:24 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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New tanks come with the toilet flange located under the hole in the floor
of the coach where the toilet is located.
The lavatory sink, and kitchen sink, as well as the roof vents on the
original tanks were glued/plastic welded into the tank, and fastened to the
plumbing by various methods, depending upon which upfitter or year of the
coach. Some are as Emery has described them, but many are vastly different.
That is why I recommend dropping the tank, and doing an extremely careful
inspection of the tank and all of the fittings. Time is your enemy where
plastic tanks and plumbing are concerned. On the new tanks a different
method is now used. You measure 2 or 3 times, then cut holes with a hole
saw and cordless drill. Then, using the slickest, snottiest lube you can
find, worry neoprene grommets into the top of the tank where you bored the
holes. The plumbing is a slip fit into the top of the grommets with lube.
Once and done, flexible enough to not break the tank. EZ-PZ.
Jim Hupy
On Thu, Jan 10, 2019, 2:02 PM Emery Stora via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org wrote:
>
>
>> On Jan 9, 2019, at 7:04 PM, Skip Hartline
> wrote:
>>
>> Evening all,
>> I know it has been discussed but I'm thinking about dropping my black
> tank on my 74 canyonlands, one of the few things I haven't tackled yet. As
> I see
>> it somehow the kitchen drain has to be unhooked in the spot under the
> electrical panel, the toilet has to be removed then it's flange unscrews
> from
>> the tank, but I can't figure how the sink and shower drain unhooks
> before dropping the tank. One of those mental blocks, cranal flatulence you
> know.
>> Any help or hints would sure be appreciated.
>> Thanks,
>> Skip hartline
>>
>
> Skip
> You have three tubes sticking down into the top of the tank.
> One is the toilet pipe, another is from the shower drain/sink drain/ vent
> tube.
> The third is from the kitchen sink.
>
> The shower/sink drain slides down into a fitting that has a groove for a
> square O ring. These are prone to leakage and often result with sewage all
> over the top of the tank.
> The kitchen one has a metal flange similar to the screw on ring on a trap
> below your house sink.
>
> If you look at
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3276-kitchen-sink-drain-to-holding-tank.html
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3276-kitchen-sink-drain-to-holding-tank.html
>>
> you’ll see how to upgrade the kitchen sink drain.
>
> As to the slip fitting it is best to replace it with half of a rubber
> coupling. This will be easier and prevent sewage leaking. You can fasten
> it to the top of the tank with a stainless steel spiral clamp. Then when
> you put the tank up you can attach the pipe from the shower/ sink by
> putting it into the rubber coupling and fastening it from the top with a
> clamp. You may have to cut some from from the bottom of the vent pipe. It
> will be necessary to remove the water tank when working from the top. It
> is also a good time to cover the area around the pipe (the mouse hole) with
> some flashing so as to prevent mice from getting into your motorhome. See
> here:
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4986-holding-tank-top-fitting.html http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g4986-holding-tank-top-fitting.html>
>
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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