Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Window Blinds Conversion, Not too difficult, inexpensive (Get rid of the Bottom Up blind, make them TOP DOWN)
| Window Blinds Conversion, Not too difficult, inexpensive [message #334363] |
Sun, 01 July 2018 18:13  |
GatsbysCruise
Messages: 261
Registered: January 2017
Location: Waukegan, Illinois
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Converting blinds to Uppsy Downsy, sort of.
My RV came with the 3 honey comb type blinds, room darkening, pull down to
darken the room, pull up to let light in.
Over the years, I always thought that system was kind of backwards. If I were
in my RV in the evening, And I wanted to let in light or some fresh air, I'd
want to open the blinds from the top down, not down up. I thought that made all
kinds of sense.
I found the blinds shops sold an expensive option called Top Down, Bottom Up.
I was pretty sure if My blinds had to be replaced that I would go that way.
But I had the feeling that having the Bottom Up feature was just an extra cost.
With the answer to my engine power problem almost completely tackled, I have
been putting more effort into getting the coach looking like she was ready to
go, and to get the systems up to speed again.
One day I pulled on the cord to lower the blinds, and the cord broke, the blind
fell to the bottom of the window. Ok, so remembering that I wanted to get away
from the Bottom Up blinds I priced the Top Down Bottom UP blinds and they easily
came in over $100 each. I was a bit overwhelmed since the existing blind was
still in good shape, just needed the cords replaced.
So I looked into how difficult it would be to make these blinds convert to a Top
Down Blind. The answer was rather simple. So I share my idea with you.
FIRST take the blind out of the window, including the hardware that holds the top
in place. Mount the hardware at the bottom of the window, with the gripping part
facing up.
You may have to do some trim work around the window. The PO that "Updated" my
coach didn't bother covering any chasis metal where it wouldn't be seen so I had
to cover it on my own.
Now you will take the blind and cut the cords from the bottom of the shade, this
is the part that goes up and down normally, and remove the cords.
With the cords removed, turn the blind upside down and attach to the hardware that
you previously attached to the bottom of the window frame.
At each end of the former Bottom rail, now the top rail, you need to drill a 1/8th
inch hole about 1/4" away from the end, direct center of front and rear.
I picked up replacement blinds cord from the hardware store and some 3/8" diameter
eye screws that will screw into the wood at the top of the window. If you have those blind
covers that go over each end of the blind, you can attach the eye as high as you can inside
the track but above the window glass level. You want to install
an eye on each side of the window as close to the outside edges of the blinds and
higher than the window so when the blind slides up, it will block any light or view,
or chilly air/heat.
You will attach the cord to that former bottom rail, now top rail where you drilled
that hole. There are several ways to do this, slip the cord through the hole,
outside to inside, and tie a knot. Sometimes the knot might slip through so you can
slip the cord through the hole, outside to inside and tie a piece of tooth pick on to
prevent the knot from slipping though the hole.
You most likely have one of those plastic cord wraps on the wall, looks like a boat
cleat. Your cord will travel from the far side (oppsite the cleat side) where it is
fastened to the rail, up to the eye, through the eye, over across the window to the
other eye, through that eye and down
to the cleat, leave plenty of extra.
Attach the cord to the rail on the near side of the cleat, this cord goes up, to the
eye, through the eye and back down to the cleat, leave extra.
You should now be able to pull on the cord and the blind rail should raise up. I have
the habit of holding the rail, even in the original form when raising or lowing so that
helps make the raising easy. Secure on the cleat. Be sure the rail is level, and that
it covers the window when completely up to top. Loosen the cord from the cleat and let
the rail (blind) drop to the bottom. Secure to the cleat then tie a knot in the extra
cord. Trim as desired. You could tie a knot at the top of the window and trim if you don't mind
reaching up for the cord.
You are done. You won't have the Bottom Up blind ability and I thought it was rather
silly anyway. But you now have the Top Down ability which makes all kinds of sense.
You can drop the blind 6 inches and let in light, or air, but remain private. Or you
can drop it further, ½ way, ¾ down or all the way. Mine have been converted for 6 months
and I've operated them, tested them every way I can think of and they work quite well.
I did have to put some wood trim over the top to cover where the old blind used to cover
the window area, but it all looks good.
I was pretty sure if My blinds had to be replaced that I would go that way. But I had
the feeling that having the Bottom Up feature was just an extra cost I didn't think I'd use.
GatsbysCruise. \
74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO - UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
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| Re: Window Blinds Conversion, Not too difficult, inexpensive [message #334389 is a reply to message #334381] |
Sun, 01 July 2018 21:52  |
GatsbysCruise
Messages: 261
Registered: January 2017
Location: Waukegan, Illinois
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Thanks. The eye bolt/screw needs to be small if you don't have a lot of space between the blind rail and the top of the window. The small eyebolt/screws are strong enough to handle the blinds rail, the weight is not that much and pulling on the cord doesnt seem to cause any problem. I said 3/8" but 1/4 would be better.
You'll find it is more time than work and I like the result.
GatsbysCruise. \
74GMC260 Former Glacier Model style. \
Waukegan, Illinois \ Keep those MiniDiscs Spinning \ MY GREYHOUND IS FASTER THAN YOUR HONOR ROLL STUDENT \ WindowsXP-Win7-Win8.1-UBUNTU STUDIO - UBUNTU VOYAGER - Berzin Auto Center
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