Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Dash heat, A/C blower motor delay.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Dash heat, A/C blower motor delay. [message #332764 is a reply to message #332762] |
Tue, 29 May 2018 18:59   |
Dave Stragand
Messages: 307
Registered: October 2017
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I think these are it: search “366408 relay” on eBay.
> On May 29, 2018, at 7:54 PM, Dave Stragand wrote:
>
> If I recall correctly, you can bypass it by moving the purple wire to the other harness. Others can probably jump in with the exact procedure.
>
> If you want to replace it, I picked up an NOS one on eBay for like $10 a couple of months ago.
>
>> On May 29, 2018, at 7:47 PM, Bob Dunahugh wrote:
>>
>> Mine quit working today. And from what I understand. They're obsolete. Any sparky out there have an idea on how to make one. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale
>> _______________________________________________
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1978 Transmode (403)
Pittsburgh, PA
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| Re: [GMCnet] Dash heat, A/C blower motor delay. [message #332766 is a reply to message #332762] |
Tue, 29 May 2018 19:01 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Bob, the engine needs to be running and the alternator needs to be putting
out before the high speed will work. Just a suggestion. It still may be a
bad relay.
Jim Hupy
On Tue, May 29, 2018, 4:54 PM Dave Stragand
wrote:
> If I recall correctly, you can bypass it by moving the purple wire to the
> other harness. Others can probably jump in with the exact procedure.
>
> If you want to replace it, I picked up an NOS one on eBay for like $10 a
> couple of months ago.
>
>> On May 29, 2018, at 7:47 PM, Bob Dunahugh wrote:
>>
>> Mine quit working today. And from what I understand. They're obsolete.
> Any sparky out there have an idea on how to make one. Bob Dunahugh 78
> Royale
>> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] Dash heat, A/C blower motor delay. [message #332782 is a reply to message #332777] |
Wed, 30 May 2018 07:02 |
Dave Stragand
Messages: 307
Registered: October 2017
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Hi Bob,
Yes, I was referring to the delay relay, at the very top of the compartment. I can send you my original one if you’d like. There are also a few NOS 366408 delay relays on eBay at present — I’d be happy to pick one up for you to repay your generosity with the spare carrier!
-Dave Stragand
1978 Transmode, near Pittsburgh
> On May 30, 2018, at 1:09 AM, Bob Dunahugh wrote:
>
> There seems to be some miss understanding. The blower ( RELAY ) is new, and working properly. It's the blower motor ( DELAY ) that's not working. The DELAY is located just above the RELAY. The DELAY is so there are two vacuum controlled doors. Have time to get into their proper position before the blower motor turns on in the high position. As the vacuum controlled diaphrams can be overpowered by the blower. In 1977. GM made great improvements for the 77-78 modals in this area. James H mentioned that the engine needs to be running for the blower to run on high. This is important to remember. So. I had bypassed the delay. Everything then worked fine. And I understand that the DELAY is obsolete. Would it be hard to make a replacement ? The cooling part works great. When I built this 78. I put in a Sanden compressor, and hoses on that I got from Jim K at Applied. Very nice kit. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Bob Dunahugh
> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2018 6:46 PM
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Dash heat, A/C blower motor delay.
>
>
> Mine quit working today. And from what I understand. They're obsolete. Any sparky out there have an idea on how to make one. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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1978 Transmode (403)
Pittsburgh, PA
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| Re: [GMCnet] Dash heat, A/C blower motor delay. [message #332806 is a reply to message #332758] |
Wed, 30 May 2018 11:51 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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The delay was added as a patch in fix, so the connectors plug right together to patch around it. No cutting no cuzzing. 30 second fix. I don't use HI when changing damper modes and never had an issue. Actually on the road I usually use speed 2-3 for noise reasons. Once at highway speeds the ram effect makes 3 flow like 4 if you keep it on fresh air Normal.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat [message #339309 is a reply to message #332758] |
Tue, 04 December 2018 19:55 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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We are finding several people needing to re core the heater due to leakage.
On Tue, Dec 4, 2018 at 5:53 PM Jim Kanomata wrote:
> Should the core leak, just disconnect the hoses and get an reducer and
> connect the two hoses.
>
> On Tue, Dec 4, 2018 at 4:53 PM Andrew wrote:
>
>> Hey all, thank you very much for the replies they were super helpful.
>> Turns out there was a bypass installed but it was junk so I replaced it
>> with a
>> new one from home depot. Next I noticed the PO removed the heater
>> temperature valve that is immediately after the HVAC box. Ordered a new one
>> should
>> be able to put it on this weekend.
>>
>> Next question... When I turn on the valve and try and run the heat, am I
>> going to screw something up? I'm not at all sure the condition of the heater
>> core or how much decades old coolant is hanging out in there. Risky move
>> or no?
>> --
>> 1978 Kingsley -
>> Kansas City, MO
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
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>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
> jimk@appliedairfilters.com
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: [GMCnet] Dash heat [message #340140 is a reply to message #332758] |
Thu, 17 January 2019 14:29 |
JerryW
Messages: 256
Registered: August 2018
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Not trying (very hard) to gloat but if you were sitting on the beach at Puerto Penasco, Sonora, Mexico as we are the very last thing you would want is dash heat. Sorry, I couldn’t resist (grin)
Jerry
Jerry Work
Kerby, OR
> On Jan 17, 2019, at 10:00 AM, gmclist-request@list.gmcnet.org wrote:
>
> Send Gmclist mailing list submissions to
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> than "Re: Contents of Gmclist digest..."
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Dash Heat (Gary Kosier)
> 2. Re: Dash Heat (Charles Boyd)
> 3. Re: John L. (Larry)
> 4. Re: New Engine on the way (Johnny Bridges)
> 5. Re: A Coolant/Water Question for the Chemists in the Group
> (Chris Tyler)
> 6. Re: Onan rear bearing (Tyler)
> 7. Re: Onan rear bearing (Jon Roche)
> 8. Re: John L. (John R. Lebetski)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 13:29:02 -0500
> From: "Gary Kosier"
> To:
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Bruce,
>
> That valve bypasses the heater core to keep it from heating the cold air
> from the air conditioner while maintaining water flow through the
> remote throttle body on a port fuel injection to keep it from frosting up.
>
> Gary Kosier
> 77PB w/500Cad
> Newark, Ohio
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Bruce Hislop"
> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2019 8:49 AM
> To:
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
>
>> Emery, the posted valves specs say 9 to 24VDC operating range, so should
>> be no issue on 12VDC. The do have several types of control. 2-wire using
>> voltage reversal, 3 wire using a common ground (Open, close and ground)
>> and a 2 wire self closing (power ON to open). There is also a version with
>> an
>> indicator light switch show whether it is open or closed.
>>
>> I'm using a new style vacuum operated valve which connects to both hoses
>> to divert the water back bypassing the heater code. Anyone know if you can
>> just close off the heater circuit circulation? or does the cooling system
>> need water flowing to properly flow through the engine cooling system.
>>
>> Thanks
>> --
>> Bruce Hislop
>> ON Canada
>> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
>> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 12:04:38 -0700
> From: Charles Boyd
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Sir, concerning the water circulation from engine to and from heater.. a 3/4" hose comes off the water pump to heater, it has a T in the line that
> is 5/8" and goes to rear of engine intake manifold which circulates coolant thru engine even if the hose going to heater or the return that Ts at the
> rear of intake in water jacket is closed off with a valve. Most of us have one manual shut off under hood to replace the vacuum operated OEM one
> which closes with vacuum when AC is on. If concerned about a leaking heater core you can block off both with no ill effect on engine circulation if
> OEM bypass is there. These are also the lines that go to house water heater and blocking dash heater core should not effect it.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> RF_Burns wrote on Wed, 16 January 2019 08:49
>> Emery, the posted valves specs say 9 to 24VDC operating range, so should be no issue on 12VDC. The do have several types of control. 2-wire using
>> voltage reversal, 3 wire using a common ground (Open, close and ground) and a 2 wire self closing (power ON to open). There is also a version with
>> an indicator light switch show whether it is open or closed.
>>
>> I'm using a new style vacuum operated valve which connects to both hoses to divert the water back bypassing the heater code. Anyone know if you
>> can just close off the heater circuit circulation? or does the cooling system need water flowing to properly flow through the engine cooling
>> system.
>>
>> Thanks
>
>
> --
> C. Boyd
> 76 Crestmont
> East Tennessee
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 12:58:39 -0700
> From: Larry
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] John L.
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> John,
> Are you still at :
> mailto:gransport7087@gmail.com
>
> Well, anyway, here is the note I sent you at that gmail account and a PM from GMCforum.
>
> John,
> Do you have access to or have info where I can get an accumulator that will work with our PM's?
>
> I just bought a PM as a back-up that has a weak accumulator, and I suspect that the accumulator in the one I got from you is weak. The motor runs
> about every 5 seconds or so for about 2 seconds.
>
> TIA
>
> Larry. :)
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 14:46:17 -0700
> From: Johnny Bridges
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] New Engine on the way
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> So after some hiatus for personal stuff, I'm back at it. Stripped the interior yesterday and the carpet today. All the interior want to Tim's
> Upholstery, he does most of the high line and custom stuff around here. Very light biege textured vinyl to go on the bunks and the dinette and the
> panels which cover under them. Gonna put snap together flooring in place of the carpet which isn't worth cleaning. Then we'll replace the removed
> cabinet with the repaired back. Meantimes the trolley goes in, and the lunched mill comes out. Then off to Americus for the new one.
>
> --johnny
> --
> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
> Braselton, Ga.
> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 18:18:08 -0700
> From: Chris Tyler
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] A Coolant/Water Question for the Chemists in the
> Group
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I have yet to be convinced distilled water is nessesary or a real advantage in cooling systems. Batteries are another story.
> But for the negligible cost? Why not...
> --
> 76 Glenbrook
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 20:12:57 -0700
> From: Tyler
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan rear bearing
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Thanks Jim on the part suggestions
>
> Here is a pic of the bad bearing...
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6734/medium/onan_bearing_bad.jpg
>
> I have the Onan I am taking out loose from the mounts, but the wires are not as straightforward as I hoped to unhook. Try again in the light tomorrow.
> Seems like bolted to coach, and bolted to genny.
>
> And...to remove the "bell" to get to this bearing, is it just a cover, or will I be messing with the electrical stuff to get access? I read the manual
> on a full service, but I've never been into one of these before. Any tips or simplified "look for this" suggestions?
>
>
>
>
> --
> 1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2019 07:29:24 -0700
> From: Jon Roche
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan rear bearing
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> keep track of the little tab. it may go flying.
>
> there are brushes to deal with, you may want to replace the brushes while in there. I think you end up taking the brushes out before you take that
> blue plate/end cover off. also take a good look at the field coil for corrosion and try to clean that up.
>
>
> as far as removing, I used a socket, a piece of flat stock and 2-C-clamps. it was stuck, but when I put some pressure on it, and tapped with hammer
> it came loose/off. (blue plate).
>
>
> however getting the bearing off the shaft is another problem. I don't have a puller that fits well, and I have not been successful in removing the
> bearing yet from the shaft. My field coil is bad, so I may end up parting out my onan, as I found a 2800 microlite that I am pretty sure i will end
> up using. So I may never take the bearing off of mine.
>
>
> --
> Jon Roche
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2019 07:22:27 -0700
> From: John R. Lebetski
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] John L.
> Message-ID:
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Sorry that email was just to use this site when AOL became unsupported. Cardone sells a repurposed slightly larger unit that works. Sellers on eBay
> or Kirbanperformance.com. About $200. But your symptoms are not perse accumulator though that may be weak too. Pump running repeatedly is usually
> check valve or can be internal leak in master ( less likely). Discharge unit key off 10 pedal applications and disconnectt the pressure line entering
> side of MC. Use a small easy out to pull out the check valve seat assy and spring with poppet. Clean and if needed the plastic poppet can be refaced
> gently with a sheet of 1500 wet on a glass or granite surface. Very lightly and at 90 to the surface reface the poppet with a few circular actions.
> Is all the air bled out? If foaming the volume will drop as foam settles and cause pump to run again. Or a spec of dirt can cause leak down. They all
> had no leak down on test jig. Weak accumulator is usually "runs with pedal apply" or just one apply. With a fresh accumulator you should get 2 applies
> then run.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Subject: Digest Footer
>
> _______________________________________________
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> ------------------------------
>
> End of Gmclist Digest, Vol 126, Issue 27
> ****************************************
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| Re: [GMCnet] Dash heat [message #340141 is a reply to message #340140] |
Thu, 17 January 2019 15:17 |
Dolph Santorine
Messages: 1236
Registered: April 2011
Location: Wheeling, WV
Karma: -41
|
Senior Member |
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It’s ok Jerry. I would too.
Just finished winterizing my coach. In 32 degree weather.
Dolph Santorine
DE AD0LF
Wheeling, West Virginia
1977 ex-Palm Beach TZE167V100820
Sullybuilt Bags, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission
> On Jan 17, 2019, at 3:29 PM, Gerald Work via Gmclist wrote:
>
> Not trying (very hard) to gloat but if you were sitting on the beach at Puerto Penasco, Sonora, Mexico as we are the very last thing you would want is dash heat. Sorry, I couldn’t resist (grin)
>
> Jerry
>
> Jerry Work
> Kerby, OR
>
>> On Jan 17, 2019, at 10:00 AM, gmclist-request@list.gmcnet.org wrote:
>>
>> Send Gmclist mailing list submissions to
>> gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> gmclist-request@list.gmcnet.org
>>
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> gmclist-owner@list.gmcnet.org
>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of Gmclist digest..."
>>
>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>> 1. Re: Dash Heat (Gary Kosier)
>> 2. Re: Dash Heat (Charles Boyd)
>> 3. Re: John L. (Larry)
>> 4. Re: New Engine on the way (Johnny Bridges)
>> 5. Re: A Coolant/Water Question for the Chemists in the Group
>> (Chris Tyler)
>> 6. Re: Onan rear bearing (Tyler)
>> 7. Re: Onan rear bearing (Jon Roche)
>> 8. Re: John L. (John R. Lebetski)
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 13:29:02 -0500
>> From: "Gary Kosier"
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>> reply-type=original
>>
>> Bruce,
>>
>> That valve bypasses the heater core to keep it from heating the cold air
>> from the air conditioner while maintaining water flow through the
>> remote throttle body on a port fuel injection to keep it from frosting up.
>>
>> Gary Kosier
>> 77PB w/500Cad
>> Newark, Ohio
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Bruce Hislop"
>> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2019 8:49 AM
>> To:
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
>>
>>> Emery, the posted valves specs say 9 to 24VDC operating range, so should
>>> be no issue on 12VDC. The do have several types of control. 2-wire using
>>> voltage reversal, 3 wire using a common ground (Open, close and ground)
>>> and a 2 wire self closing (power ON to open). There is also a version with
>>> an
>>> indicator light switch show whether it is open or closed.
>>>
>>> I'm using a new style vacuum operated valve which connects to both hoses
>>> to divert the water back bypassing the heater code. Anyone know if you can
>>> just close off the heater circuit circulation? or does the cooling system
>>> need water flowing to properly flow through the engine cooling system.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> --
>>> Bruce Hislop
>>> ON Canada
>>> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.1 ton front end
>>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
>>> My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 12:04:38 -0700
>> From: Charles Boyd
>> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Dash Heat
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Sir, concerning the water circulation from engine to and from heater.. a 3/4" hose comes off the water pump to heater, it has a T in the line that
>> is 5/8" and goes to rear of engine intake manifold which circulates coolant thru engine even if the hose going to heater or the return that Ts at the
>> rear of intake in water jacket is closed off with a valve. Most of us have one manual shut off under hood to replace the vacuum operated OEM one
>> which closes with vacuum when AC is on. If concerned about a leaking heater core you can block off both with no ill effect on engine circulation if
>> OEM bypass is there. These are also the lines that go to house water heater and blocking dash heater core should not effect it.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> RF_Burns wrote on Wed, 16 January 2019 08:49
>>> Emery, the posted valves specs say 9 to 24VDC operating range, so should be no issue on 12VDC. The do have several types of control. 2-wire using
>>> voltage reversal, 3 wire using a common ground (Open, close and ground) and a 2 wire self closing (power ON to open). There is also a version with
>>> an indicator light switch show whether it is open or closed.
>>>
>>> I'm using a new style vacuum operated valve which connects to both hoses to divert the water back bypassing the heater code. Anyone know if you
>>> can just close off the heater circuit circulation? or does the cooling system need water flowing to properly flow through the engine cooling
>>> system.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>
>>
>> --
>> C. Boyd
>> 76 Crestmont
>> East Tennessee
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 12:58:39 -0700
>> From: Larry
>> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] John L.
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> John,
>> Are you still at :
>> mailto:gransport7087@gmail.com
>>
>> Well, anyway, here is the note I sent you at that gmail account and a PM from GMCforum.
>>
>> John,
>> Do you have access to or have info where I can get an accumulator that will work with our PM's?
>>
>> I just bought a PM as a back-up that has a weak accumulator, and I suspect that the accumulator in the one I got from you is weak. The motor runs
>> about every 5 seconds or so for about 2 seconds.
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Larry. :)
>> --
>> Larry
>> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
>> Menomonie, WI.
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 14:46:17 -0700
>> From: Johnny Bridges
>> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] New Engine on the way
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> So after some hiatus for personal stuff, I'm back at it. Stripped the interior yesterday and the carpet today. All the interior want to Tim's
>> Upholstery, he does most of the high line and custom stuff around here. Very light biege textured vinyl to go on the bunks and the dinette and the
>> panels which cover under them. Gonna put snap together flooring in place of the carpet which isn't worth cleaning. Then we'll replace the removed
>> cabinet with the repaired back. Meantimes the trolley goes in, and the lunched mill comes out. Then off to Americus for the new one.
>>
>> --johnny
>> --
>> Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
>> Braselton, Ga.
>> "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 18:18:08 -0700
>> From: Chris Tyler
>> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] A Coolant/Water Question for the Chemists in the
>> Group
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> I have yet to be convinced distilled water is nessesary or a real advantage in cooling systems. Batteries are another story.
>> But for the negligible cost? Why not...
>> --
>> 76 Glenbrook
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 6
>> Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2019 20:12:57 -0700
>> From: Tyler
>> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan rear bearing
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Thanks Jim on the part suggestions
>>
>> Here is a pic of the bad bearing...
>>
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6734/medium/onan_bearing_bad.jpg
>>
>> I have the Onan I am taking out loose from the mounts, but the wires are not as straightforward as I hoped to unhook. Try again in the light tomorrow.
>> Seems like bolted to coach, and bolted to genny.
>>
>> And...to remove the "bell" to get to this bearing, is it just a cover, or will I be messing with the electrical stuff to get access? I read the manual
>> on a full service, but I've never been into one of these before. Any tips or simplified "look for this" suggestions?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> 1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath
>> Raleigh, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 7
>> Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2019 07:29:24 -0700
>> From: Jon Roche
>> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan rear bearing
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> keep track of the little tab. it may go flying.
>>
>> there are brushes to deal with, you may want to replace the brushes while in there. I think you end up taking the brushes out before you take that
>> blue plate/end cover off. also take a good look at the field coil for corrosion and try to clean that up.
>>
>>
>> as far as removing, I used a socket, a piece of flat stock and 2-C-clamps. it was stuck, but when I put some pressure on it, and tapped with hammer
>> it came loose/off. (blue plate).
>>
>>
>> however getting the bearing off the shaft is another problem. I don't have a puller that fits well, and I have not been successful in removing the
>> bearing yet from the shaft. My field coil is bad, so I may end up parting out my onan, as I found a 2800 microlite that I am pretty sure i will end
>> up using. So I may never take the bearing off of mine.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Jon Roche
>> 75 palm beach
>> St. Cloud, MN
>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 8
>> Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2019 07:22:27 -0700
>> From: John R. Lebetski
>> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
>> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] John L.
>> Message-ID:
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>>
>> Sorry that email was just to use this site when AOL became unsupported. Cardone sells a repurposed slightly larger unit that works. Sellers on eBay
>> or Kirbanperformance.com. About $200. But your symptoms are not perse accumulator though that may be weak too. Pump running repeatedly is usually
>> check valve or can be internal leak in master ( less likely). Discharge unit key off 10 pedal applications and disconnectt the pressure line entering
>> side of MC. Use a small easy out to pull out the check valve seat assy and spring with poppet. Clean and if needed the plastic poppet can be refaced
>> gently with a sheet of 1500 wet on a glass or granite surface. Very lightly and at 90 to the surface reface the poppet with a few circular actions.
>> Is all the air bled out? If foaming the volume will drop as foam settles and cause pump to run again. Or a spec of dirt can cause leak down. They all
>> had no leak down on test jig. Weak accumulator is usually "runs with pedal apply" or just one apply. With a fresh accumulator you should get 2 applies
>> then run.
>> --
>> John Lebetski
>> Woodstock, IL
>> 77 Eleganza II
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Subject: Digest Footer
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Gmclist mailing list
>> List Information and Subscription Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> End of Gmclist Digest, Vol 126, Issue 27
>> ****************************************
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] Dash heat [message #340144 is a reply to message #340141] |
Thu, 17 January 2019 17:22 |
 |
Tom Lins
Messages: 372
Registered: February 2004
Location: St Augustine, FL
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
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|
Dolph Santorine wrote on Thu, 17 January 2019 16:17It's ok Jerry. I would too.
Just finished winterizing my coach. In 32 degree weather.
Dolph Santorine
DE AD0LF
Wheeling, West Virginia
1977 ex-Palm Beach TZE167V100820
Sullybuilt Bags, Reaction Arms, Manny Transmission
That is exaxtly why we moved to Florida.
You don't have to shovel sunshine
Tom Lins
St Augustine, FL
77 GM Rear Twin, Dry Bath, 455, Aluminum Radiator Quad-Bag Suspension Solar Panel
Manuals on DVD
YOUTUBE Channel: GMC Dealer Training Tapes
http://www.bdub.net/tomlins/
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