Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » gaps where the awning meets the roof
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| Re: [GMCnet] gaps where the awning meets the roof [message #322344 is a reply to message #322343] |
Sat, 19 August 2017 12:14   |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
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How big is the gap?
It might be better to fill it with polyurethane sealant in a caulking tube.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
> On Aug 19, 2017, at 11:05 AM, kelly stockwell wrote:
>
> There's a gap where the awnings are screwed onto the coach, during rainstorms water runs through these gaps and down the sides of the coach; I can't
> keep windows open, it can pour in around the door.
>
> The best solution would be for me to unmount the awning, get SS bolts, seal, and put new bolts in.
>
> The cheap and easy way to do it would be to seal on top with this stuff
> https://www.amazon.com/EternaBond-RSW-2-50-RoofSeal-Sealant-White/dp/B005GOM2I8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
>
> is that a terrible idea? I'm not a good caulker; and am afraid this would be really permanent (though I'm not sure permanent is bad.
>
> kelly
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] gaps where the awning meets the roof [message #322359 is a reply to message #322348] |
Sat, 19 August 2017 15:33 |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Use polyurethane caulking from Home Depot. It is called PL sealant. It has a Loctite label.
It comes as window/door sealant, concrete sealant, foundation sealant, and others. The only difference is the color.
I use the black around windows and the wheelwell liners. You’ll probably want to use the wire above the awning rail.
Once it cures for a few days it is paintable.
It will not degrade in the sunlight as silicone sealant does.
Put masking tape on both sides of the crack you want to seal. Run the sealant in with the tube and then you can smooth it level with the tape with your finger.
Before it cures pull off the masking tape and you will have a nice clean edge.
Removing the screws in the rail is really difficult and you’ll probably break most of them and have to drill them out. Using sealant is a lot easier.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
On Aug 19, 2017, at 12:17 PM, kelly stockwell wrote:
>
> Not very big gap. Caulk would work; but like I said, I'm not good at it
>
> But yeah, you're probably right caulk is the way to go.
>
> Am i right in assuming removing and redoing the screws is a can of worms?
>
> kelly
> --
> 1978 Kingsley
> Putney VT
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] gaps where the awning meets the roof [message #322379 is a reply to message #322359] |
Sat, 19 August 2017 21:13 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Not often Emory and I disagree, but I must this time: PL Polyurethane IS
paintable -- meaning that painting won't hurt the caulk. BUT, the paint
will NOT stick to the caulk (permanently).
Back in '02 or so when I was getting ready to have the GMC painted, I
contacted PL and was told that after 7 days of curing, even automotive
paint would not hurt the caulk, so I used a lot of it on GMC seams, such as
around my permanently mounted fender flares and the rear "hatch". After
about 5 years, those seams became the only real flaws in my Topeka Graphics
paint job. And after 15 years, those are STILL the main flaws -- there's
NO paint adhered to any of those seams. Looks terrible from even 10'.
JWIK,
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sat, Aug 19, 2017 at 4:33 PM, Emery Stora wrote:
> Use polyurethane caulking from Home Depot. It is called PL sealant. It
> has a Loctite label.
> It comes as window/door sealant, concrete sealant, foundation sealant, and
> others. The only difference is the color.
> I use the black around windows and the wheelwell liners. You’ll probably
> want to use the wire above the awning rail.
>
> Once it cures for a few days it is paintable.
> It will not degrade in the sunlight as silicone sealant does.
>
> Put masking tape on both sides of the crack you want to seal. Run the
> sealant in with the tube and then you can smooth it level with the tape
> with your finger.
> Before it cures pull off the masking tape and you will have a nice clean
> edge.
>
> Removing the screws in the rail is really difficult and you’ll probably
> break most of them and have to drill them out. Using sealant is a lot
> easier.
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] gaps where the awning meets the roof [message #322383 is a reply to message #322379] |
Sat, 19 August 2017 21:53 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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Perhaps it depends on the type of paint used.
I used PL polyurethane on a roof seam over ten years ago. I painted it with Krylon acrylic spray from a can. It was Antique White which was a great match to my GMC paint.
I was on the roof last week and the paint is still holding very well to the half inch wide band of polyurethane caulk.
Ken, what type of paint did you use? Strange that we would have such different results.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
> On Aug 19, 2017, at 8:13 PM, Ken Henderson wrote:
>
> Not often Emory and I disagree, but I must this time: PL Polyurethane IS
> paintable -- meaning that painting won't hurt the caulk. BUT, the paint
> will NOT stick to the caulk (permanently).
>
> Back in '02 or so when I was getting ready to have the GMC painted, I
> contacted PL and was told that after 7 days of curing, even automotive
> paint would not hurt the caulk, so I used a lot of it on GMC seams, such as
> around my permanently mounted fender flares and the rear "hatch". After
> about 5 years, those seams became the only real flaws in my Topeka Graphics
> paint job. And after 15 years, those are STILL the main flaws -- there's
> NO paint adhered to any of those seams. Looks terrible from even 10'.
>
> JWIK,
>
> Ken H.
> Americus, GA
> '76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
> Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc., etc.
> www.gmcwipersetc.com
>
>> On Sat, Aug 19, 2017 at 4:33 PM, Emery Stora wrote:
>>
>> Use polyurethane caulking from Home Depot. It is called PL sealant. It
>> has a Loctite label.
>> It comes as window/door sealant, concrete sealant, foundation sealant, and
>> others. The only difference is the color.
>> I use the black around windows and the wheelwell liners. You’ll probably
>> want to use the wire above the awning rail.
>>
>> Once it cures for a few days it is paintable.
>> It will not degrade in the sunlight as silicone sealant does.
>>
>> Put masking tape on both sides of the crack you want to seal. Run the
>> sealant in with the tube and then you can smooth it level with the tape
>> with your finger.
>> Before it cures pull off the masking tape and you will have a nice clean
>> edge.
>>
>> Removing the screws in the rail is really difficult and you’ll probably
>> break most of them and have to drill them out. Using sealant is a lot
>> easier.
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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| Re: gaps where the awning meets the roof [message #322385 is a reply to message #322381] |
Sat, 19 August 2017 22:09 |
Larry
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Larry wrote on Sat, 19 August 2017 21:45My brother has been a building contractor for 30+ years. For a while before contracting, he did only caulking for another contractor. He put me on to Vulkem 116 Polyurethane Sealant made by Tremco. When I resided my home, I used this stuff and it has remained pliable for the past 18yrs. So, I have used it on my Royale to seal the gap between the awning and the roof and other spots as needed. Comes in lots of different colors. Don't know if it is paintable. Otherwise, no issues. JWID
OH, and I should mention, if you use this stuff, be patient with drying time. It can take several days to dry so it is not tacky to the touch. Also, I'd wear rubber gloves of some kind. Stuff is sticky as hell, and is hard to remove from your skin.
Larry 
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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| Re: [GMCnet] gaps where the awning meets the roof [message #322386 is a reply to message #322383] |
Sat, 19 August 2017 22:20 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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G'day,
Since it is flexible relative motion between both sides of the gap it is sealing might affect whether the paint adheres or not over time.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Emery Stora
Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2017 12:54 PM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] gaps where the awning meets the roof
Perhaps it depends on the type of paint used.
I used PL polyurethane on a roof seam over ten years ago. I painted it with Krylon acrylic spray from a can. It was Antique White which was a great match to my GMC paint.
I was on the roof last week and the paint is still holding very well to the half inch wide band of polyurethane caulk.
Ken, what type of paint did you use? Strange that we would have such different results.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
> On Aug 19, 2017, at 8:13 PM, Ken Henderson wrote:
>
> Not often Emory and I disagree, but I must this time: PL Polyurethane IS
> paintable -- meaning that painting won't hurt the caulk. BUT, the paint
> will NOT stick to the caulk (permanently).
>
> Back in '02 or so when I was getting ready to have the GMC painted, I
> contacted PL and was told that after 7 days of curing, even automotive
> paint would not hurt the caulk, so I used a lot of it on GMC seams, such as
> around my permanently mounted fender flares and the rear "hatch". After
> about 5 years, those seams became the only real flaws in my Topeka Graphics
> paint job. And after 15 years, those are STILL the main flaws -- there's
> NO paint adhered to any of those seams. Looks terrible from even 10'.
>
> JWIK,
>
> Ken H.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] gaps where the awning meets the roof [message #322387 is a reply to message #322383] |
Sat, 19 August 2017 23:00 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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|
Whatever BASF variety Topeka was using at the time.
Ken H.
On Sat, Aug 19, 2017 at 10:53 PM, Emery Stora wrote:
> Perhaps it depends on the type of paint used.
>
> I used PL polyurethane on a roof seam over ten years ago. I painted it
> with Krylon acrylic spray from a can. It was Antique White which was a
> great match to my GMC paint.
>
> I was on the roof last week and the paint is still holding very well to
> the half inch wide band of polyurethane caulk.
>
> Ken, what type of paint did you use? Strange that we would have such
> different results.
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] gaps where the awning meets the roof [message #322406 is a reply to message #322397] |
Sun, 20 August 2017 10:26 |
kstockwell
Messages: 367
Registered: May 2016
Location: Putney VT
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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I ordered from Jim Bounds, (i think) so I'm good with whatever it does. My roof is white, the caulk is white.
If when I paint lots of stuff needs to come off.
Is it worth checking to see if the bolts can all be tightened or am I asking for trouble?
-k
1978 Kingsley
Putney VT
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| Re: gaps where the awning meets the roof [message #322434 is a reply to message #322343] |
Sun, 20 August 2017 19:12 |
77Royale
Messages: 461
Registered: June 2014
Location: Mid Michigan
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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I don't know if bond and seal acts like a glue? If it does you may not want to actually seal it to the roof. That will play havoc when it's time to paint the coach and remove the awning.
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
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