Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] ignition problem
| [GMCnet] ignition problem [message #321257] |
Sat, 29 July 2017 17:53  |
Burt and Faye curtis
Messages: 256
Registered: June 2012
Karma: 4
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Manny came up last week and very graciously r and r ed my transmission, so
now it should be good to go. While the coach was still up in the air, we
tested it in all the gears and other than front brakes sticking a little,
all was great. However, when I went to move it a few days ago, when the key
was turned the buzzer went on, like its suppose to, but at the next
position none of the indicator lights lit up and in the start position,
nothing happened, not even the smallest click. Moving the tilt wheel up or
down has no effect on this either. However, briefly the lights did power,
along with the electric fuel pump. But only once. Checked battery voltage
at the isolator posts as battery is a pita to get to. Voltage was just
below 12 v, so a little low, but not enough to my mind to not light the
lights.
So, 1) could the connections that were disconnected and reconnected to
install the trani cause this problem if they aren't tight?
Or 2) Might this be a nsss problem?
Or 3) Might there be another connection that either a rodent has partially
chewed that works intermittently or that has became corroded over the
winter?
When I moved it to a spot for the trani replacement, all seemed fine and it
started with no trouble. Battery is only one year old.
Figuring since the lights did come on once after the problem there isn't a
blown fuse.
Fay Curtis
'76 Glenbrook
Kneeland, CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] ignition problem [message #321260 is a reply to message #321257] |
Sat, 29 July 2017 19:02  |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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I'd start with looking at, and cleaning, if necessary, the battery connections. It sounds like a corroded battery terminal or ground to me. These can happen between one start up and the next and are unpredictable.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: [GMCnet] ignition problem [message #321268 is a reply to message #321260] |
Sun, 30 July 2017 00:05 |
Hal StClair
Messages: 971
Registered: March 2013
Location: Rio Rancho NM
Karma: -12
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Might also check the ignition switch. The switch could be bad or the plug may have been bumped loose. The rod going from the key tumbler to the switch might have an issue with either a broken upper gear or loose at the switch low on the column. But as Carl suggests, check the battery connections first. They seem to cause the majority of starting problems.
Hal
"I enjoy talking to you. Your mind appeals to me. It resembles my own mind, except you happen to be insane."
1977 Royale 101348,
1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,
1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,
Rio Rancho, NM
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| Re: [GMCnet] ignition problem [message #321269 is a reply to message #321268] |
Sun, 30 July 2017 00:31 |
Burt and Faye curtis
Messages: 256
Registered: June 2012
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Ok, really didn't want to, but will Jack up coach, pull off wheel and
remove shield to check battery, such. Though if it is the problem, all this
might still be easier than ign. switch.
Thanks,
Fay Curtis
76 Glenbrook
Kneeland, CA
On Saturday, July 29, 2017, Hal StClair wrote:
> Might also check the ignition switch. The switch could be bad or the plug
> may have been bumped loose. The rod going from the key tumbler to the
> switch might have an issue with either a broken upper gear or loose at the
> switch low on the column. But as Carl suggests, check the battery
> connections first. They seem to cause the majority of starting problems.
> Hal
> --
> 1977 Royale 101348,
>
> 1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,
>
> 1975 Eleganza II, 101230
>
> 1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] ignition problem [message #321270 is a reply to message #321257] |
Sun, 30 July 2017 02:07 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Faye, you should be able to get to the battery connections by opening the passenger side hood.
This could also be several other things like a very weak battery, or a bad neutral safety switch or bad ignition switch. My first guess is battery cables or a weak battery.
What I always do is to turn on the headlights. That puts a little load on the battery. If they stay on and are reasonable brilliance, then I try to start it. If the headlights go out completely while trying to start, then you have a weak battery or a bad battery connection. If the lights stay on while trying to start then we have a problem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, or starter solenoid area.
The first thing I would do is throw a 6 to 10 amp battery charger on the engine battery over night just to make sure we are not dealing with a weak (almost dead) battery. You can attach the battery charger positive lead under the passenger side hood at the big terminal that says "Vehicle Positive". You can attach the negative battery charger lead to the aluminum plate that the isolator is mounted on. You do not need to go to the actual battery to attach it.
If you get into cleaning battery terminals, remove both cables and clean both the battery posts and the inside of the cable clamps with a wire battery brush.
I have seen several occasions where just brushing them does not work. Just last week my daughter called me on an electrical problem she was having on her half-brothers car. She said she had already cleaned the cables. I told her to clean the cables again with a rat tail file on both the cable end and a flat file on the battery end. She called back 15 minutes later saying that fixed the problem.
If you want to telephone me, my unlisted phone number is on the "Black List" under Hebron, Indiana. Feel free to call me very late as I'm up working on a project. If you get my voice mail, speak slowly and repeat any numbers twice. Both Laurie and I have a problem understanding that recorder when people speak too fast.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] ignition problem [message #321271 is a reply to message #321270] |
Sun, 30 July 2017 05:07 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Also neutralize the corrosion with a mixture of baking soda and water.
On Sun, Jul 30, 2017 at 1:07 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
> Faye, you should be able to get to the battery connections by opening the
> passenger side hood.
>
> This could also be several other things like a very weak battery, or a bad
> neutral safety switch or bad ignition switch. My first guess is battery
> cables or a weak battery.
>
> What I always do is to turn on the headlights. That puts a little load on
> the battery. If they stay on and are reasonable brilliance, then I try to
> start it. If the headlights go out completely while trying to start, then
> you have a weak battery or a bad battery connection. If the lights stay on
> while trying to start then we have a problem in the ignition switch,
> neutral safety switch, or starter solenoid area.
>
> The first thing I would do is throw a 6 to 10 amp battery charger on the
> engine battery over night just to make sure we are not dealing with a weak
> (almost dead) battery. You can attach the battery charger positive lead
> under the passenger side hood at the big terminal that says "Vehicle
> Positive". You can attach the negative battery charger lead to the
> aluminum plate that the isolator is mounted on. You do not need to go to
> the
> actual battery to attach it.
>
> If you get into cleaning battery terminals, remove both cables and clean
> both the battery posts and the inside of the cable clamps with a wire
> battery
> brush.
>
> I have seen several occasions where just brushing them does not work.
> Just last week my daughter called me on an electrical problem she was
> having on
> her half-brothers car. She said she had already cleaned the cables. I
> told her to clean the cables again with a rat tail file on both the cable
> end
> and a flat file on the battery end. She called back 15 minutes later
> saying that fixed the problem.
>
> If you want to telephone me, my unlisted phone number is on the "Black
> List" under Hebron, Indiana. Feel free to call me very late as I'm up
> working
> on a project. If you get my voice mail, speak slowly and repeat any
> numbers twice. Both Laurie and I have a problem understanding that
> recorder when
> people speak too fast.
>
> Ken B.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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| Re: [GMCnet] ignition problem [message #321294 is a reply to message #321257] |
Sun, 30 July 2017 12:43 |
Richard Denney
Messages: 920
Registered: April 2010
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Faye, another failure point that has bitten me in the past is the large,
flat wiring harness plug at the base of the steering column, inside the
coach. Pull that apart and clean it.
Rick "often overlooked" Denney
On Sat, Jul 29, 2017 at 6:54 PM Burt and Faye curtis <
curtisunlimitedbandf@gmail.com> wrote:
> Manny came up last week and very graciously r and r ed my transmission, so
> now it should be good to go. While the coach was still up in the air, we
> tested it in all the gears and other than front brakes sticking a little,
> all was great. However, when I went to move it a few days ago, when the key
> was turned the buzzer went on, like its suppose to, but at the next
> position none of the indicator lights lit up and in the start position,
> nothing happened, not even the smallest click. Moving the tilt wheel up or
> down has no effect on this either. However, briefly the lights did power,
> along with the electric fuel pump. But only once. Checked battery voltage
> at the isolator posts as battery is a pita to get to. Voltage was just
> below 12 v, so a little low, but not enough to my mind to not light the
> lights.
> So, 1) could the connections that were disconnected and reconnected to
> install the trani cause this problem if they aren't tight?
> Or 2) Might this be a nsss problem?
> Or 3) Might there be another connection that either a rodent has partially
> chewed that works intermittently or that has became corroded over the
> winter?
> When I moved it to a spot for the trani replacement, all seemed fine and it
> started with no trouble. Battery is only one year old.
> Figuring since the lights did come on once after the problem there isn't a
> blown fuse.
>
> Fay Curtis
> '76 Glenbrook
> Kneeland, CA
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Rick Denney
73 x-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Off-list email to rick at rickdenney dot com
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