| House vs Chassis wiring [message #312495] |
Wed, 25 January 2017 10:18  |
LNelson
Messages: 335
Registered: December 2008
Location: Springfield, MO
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I am starting to think that my house (living area) 12v system is connected to my chassis battery and am wondering if the PO had made some modifications. I have the rig in it's garage (14' from me) and I recently replaced the house batteries (2-6v golf cart) and thought nothing more of it. Then, this past weekend I wanted to pump out. I have a place to drain in my garage, but the macerator did not want to macerate, and I finally diagnosed that. But when I unplugged from shore power, and had the house batteries disconnected, I noticed I still had interior lighting. Why would that be? I put a voltmeter on my buzz box and nothing there. Why would I still have power to the interior lighting? Probably something stupid.....right?
Thanks in advance for the enlightenment that is sure to come.
Larry
Larry Nelson Springfield, MO
Ex GMC'er, then GM Busnut
now '77 Eleganza ARS WB0JOT
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| Re: House vs Chassis wiring [message #312504 is a reply to message #312495] |
Wed, 25 January 2017 11:52  |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Do you have any Solar? and what house lights (I think my cockpit lights run off the engine battery). If the engine is running, then the alternator should power the house lights in the rear. there can be a few places 12v power can be introduced into the system, and it can get confusing.. best place to test is at the boost solenoid, and the isolator. if the isolator fails it could allow voltage to go between the two systems. or other PO modification.
be really careful testing, and pay attention to what is connected or not connected. you should also replace your buzzbox to get the max life out of those new batteries.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: House vs Chassis wiring [message #312507 is a reply to message #312495] |
Wed, 25 January 2017 12:10 |
Adrien G.
Messages: 474
Registered: May 2008
Location: Burns Flat, OK 73624
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Larry,
The separation of the 2 systems is at 2 places at the firewall; the alternator isolator, and at the boost solenoid.
As said, either the isolator is bad or jumped between top and bottom posts. Or the boost solenoid is
stuck (or powered) closed, jumped wire from chassis batt to house batt. Or the dash boost switch is shorted powering the solenoid.
It be too much work to combine the systems elsewhere.
MH 2 cents.
Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
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| Re: [GMCnet] House vs Chassis wiring [message #312514 is a reply to message #312504] |
Wed, 25 January 2017 16:54 |
Brian Waddell
Messages: 409
Registered: March 2010
Karma: -4
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Senior Member |
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interesting story....,my house batts ran down with nothing I thought connected,....turned out the house vac system was plugged into a receptical where it resides....ear up to the vacuum motor box revealed a hummmmmm...unplugged that and no more problems....Brian 77 ele 455
________________________________
From: Gmclist on behalf of Jon Roche
Sent: January 25, 2017 10:52 AM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] House vs Chassis wiring
Do you have any Solar? and what house lights (I think my cockpit lights run off the engine battery). If the engine is running, then the
alternator should power the house lights in the rear. there can be a few places 12v power can be introduced into the system, and it can get
confusing.. best place to test is at the boost solenoid, and the isolator. if the isolator fails it could allow voltage to go between the two
systems. or other PO modification.
be really careful testing, and pay attention to what is connected or not connected. you should also replace your buzzbox to get the max life out of
those new batteries.
--
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: [GMCnet] House vs Chassis wiring [message #312521 is a reply to message #312514] |
Thu, 26 January 2017 02:24 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I'm confused. I thought the vacuum system ran on 120 VAC. If so, then what does that have to do with depleting the 12 volt house battery(s)?
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] House vs Chassis wiring [message #312538 is a reply to message #312537] |
Thu, 26 January 2017 18:48 |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Forget about the vacuum cleaner. As Ken Burton says IT DOES NOT DRAW ANYTHING FROM THE 12 VOLT CIRCUIT!
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
> On Jan 26, 2017, at 5:19 PM, Brian Waddell wrote:
>
> I am confused to....was hoping you could explain this....I got rid of buzz box and changed my solenoids in rear and put in new isolator.....have not re checked the vacuum...just leave it unplugged until I wish to use it ..just pointing out this possible current draw from house batteries but do not know why.....Brian 77 ele 455
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: Gmclist on behalf of Ken Burton
> Sent: January 26, 2017 1:24 AM
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] House vs Chassis wiring
>
> I'm confused. I thought the vacuum system ran on 120 VAC. If so, then what does that have to do with depleting the 12 volt house battery(s)?
>
>
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
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> list.gmcnet.org
> To see the collection of prior postings to the list, visit the Gmclist Archives. Using Gmclist: To post a message to all the list members, send email ...
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