Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Usual parts needed to restore fuel tanks and reinstall
| [GMCnet] Usual parts needed to restore fuel tanks and reinstall [message #307946] |
Wed, 28 September 2016 12:25  |
Anonymous
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I have 3/8 tubing for the main lines and rubber hose for the connections - are there any other parts recommended to have handy when renovating the fuel tanks? Am crawling around underneath so just as well while I am able to do it myself.
Prior list is long, but draining brake system after replacing master cylinder, proportional valve, wheel cylinders and installing stainless steel hoses and rusty lines: Viair compressor & quad bags, APC cable, bogie pin greasers, Albert parking brake, rear brake drum reaction arm, RAMCO mirrors besides the normal interior renovations - shag carpet removal, etc., cleaning up wiring.
Motor runs great, passed OR DEQ test and then was reset to engine standards, aluminum 16” rims and new Mich LT tires.
Virgil
Lake Oswego, OR
76 23foot Birchaven w/ 455 & rear bath
vpearce in photos
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| Re: [GMCnet] Usual parts needed to restore fuel tanks and reinstall [message #307949 is a reply to message #307946] |
Wed, 28 September 2016 12:55  |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Very nice. I remember buying my first Jeep Grand Wagoneer from Lake Oswego, because it failed Emissions testing because the air tubes were removed off the exhaust, and the pump was disconnected. Was no issues where i lived in Silverton. That was an 84 Grand Wagoneer, Pretty cool you have a good running 70's motorhome that can pass.
If you are sticking with a carb, I personally would make sure you replace the fuel selector valve, and install a backup electric fuel pump plumbed into the Aux tank.
Also read up and understand the venting of the tanks, there are some modifications to the fuel tank venting, that i wish I had done when I replaced my lines, to make filling the tanks a little easier and quicker.
I do not know where that info is, maybe someone can chime in, but I think it is basically venting each tank individually, rather then T-ing them together under the coach, and using one vent hose out to the wheel well.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Usual parts needed to restore fuel tanks and reinstall [message #307955 is a reply to message #307946] |
Wed, 28 September 2016 13:32 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Yo should also replace all the Vent lines and Vapor separator, Tank
selector switch.
Generator fel line.
Call and talk to Nick and he will clue you in.
Also to lessen the chance for vapor lock,you should install our aux, fuel
pump kit and mount it on the outside of the frame where it is lot cooler.
On Wed, Sep 28, 2016 at 10:25 AM, Virgil Pearce wrote:
> I have 3/8 tubing for the main lines and rubber hose for the connections -
> are there any other parts recommended to have handy when renovating the
> fuel tanks? Am crawling around underneath so just as well while I am able
> to do it myself.
>
> Prior list is long, but draining brake system after replacing master
> cylinder, proportional valve, wheel cylinders and installing stainless
> steel hoses and rusty lines: Viair compressor & quad bags, APC cable, bogie
> pin greasers, Albert parking brake, rear brake drum reaction arm, RAMCO
> mirrors besides the normal interior renovations - shag carpet removal,
> etc., cleaning up wiring.
>
> Motor runs great, passed OR DEQ test and then was reset to engine
> standards, aluminum 16” rims and new Mich LT tires.
>
> Virgil
> Lake Oswego, OR
> 76 23foot Birchaven w/ 455 & rear bath
>
> vpearce in photos
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: [GMCnet] Usual parts needed to restore fuel tanks and reinstall [message #307959 is a reply to message #307946] |
Wed, 28 September 2016 14:41 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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vpearce wrote on Wed, 28 September 2016 13:25I have 3/8 tubing for the main lines and rubber hose for the connections - are there any other parts recommended to have handy when renovating the fuel tanks? Am crawling around underneath so just as well while I am able to do it myself.
Prior list is long, but draining brake system after replacing master cylinder, proportional valve, wheel cylinders and installing stainless steel hoses and rusty lines: Viair compressor & quad bags, APC cable, bogie pin greasers, Albert parking brake, rear brake drum reaction arm, RAMCO mirrors besides the normal interior renovations - shag carpet removal, etc., cleaning up wiring.
Motor runs great, passed OR DEQ test and then was reset to engine standards, aluminum 16" rims and new Mich LT tires.
Virgil
Virgil,
I looks like you are working the e-mail side. You need to get to the forum and read two threads. (I have much more experience with GMC fuel tanks than should ever happen and I learned some things.)
First is: Lifting fuel tanks when alone [message #174745] Wed, 27 June 2012 10:06
Second is: Recommending high T [message #178309] Sun, 29 July 2012 21:06
To answer you question directly,
1/2 rubber from the fill vent T to the fill neck up on the coach side.
3/8 line from both tank fill vents to the T where it ends up.
3/8 line from both tank pick-ups to the selector valve and then on the the steel in the engine box.
5/16 line to connect both vapor vents (the connections not in the tank sender) to a T and on the the vapor valve in the wheel well.
5/16 line from the vapor valve to the steel line that leads to the carbon canister.
1/4 line from the rear of the main (rear) fuel tank to the generator feed.
I was thinking I could give you the lengths I used, but for a few good reasons those would be useless to you. I have a 23' coach, I replaced just about all the rubber with metal line and finally, I really don't remember. I bought 25' spools of both 3/8, 5/16 and 1/4, used a lot of the 3/8, a good amount of the 5/16 and still have most of the 1/4.
If you have specific questions, you can private message me or use real e-mail to <matt [4 numbers: seven three two three] tze at gmail dot com>. That goes to my phone and I will see it sooner.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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