Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm
[GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307238] |
Fri, 16 September 2016 19:00 |
David Gardner
Messages: 62 Registered: June 2014
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Haven’t posted in a while, but I have one that has me stumped, and could use some advice..
My engine starts when cold. When the engine is warm and I turn the engine off and then try to restart it, it acts like the battery is nearly dead. I’ve had the batteries checked at two locations and both say the batteries are good. Once the engine is completely cold, the coach starts just fine.
I recently had both the alternator and starter replaced thinking they were part of the problem (they need replacing anyway) but that did not solve the problem.
After stopping with the engine not running I get a 12 volt reading from the battery, and while the engine is running I get a14.5 reading at the battery, so it appears that the batteries are charging while the engine is running
Coach runs fine until I stop, then it barely cranks over, until it is cold again several hours later.
thanking everyone in advance for your thoughts.
David Gardner
1976 Birchaven (455 motor)
Oxnard Ca
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307239 is a reply to message #307238] |
Fri, 16 September 2016 19:16 |
77Royale
Messages: 461 Registered: June 2014 Location: Mid Michigan
Karma: 6
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Does engaging the boost switch do anything or make any difference with the hard crank condition?
Possibly a bad cable or ground. Sounds like everything else was replaced already.
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307240 is a reply to message #307239] |
Fri, 16 September 2016 19:21 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806 Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Simple answer, battery cables and grounds. Feel the cables with your bare
hands. Any hot ones, investigate further.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Sep 16, 2016 5:17 PM, "Wayne Rogewski" wrote:
> Does engaging the boost switch do anything or make any difference with the
> hard crank condition?
>
> Possibly a bad cable or ground. Sounds like everything else was replaced
> already.
> --
> 77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson
> carb and dizzy.
> Mid Michigan
>
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307241 is a reply to message #307238] |
Fri, 16 September 2016 19:30 |
Scott Nutter
Messages: 782 Registered: January 2015 Location: Houston/San Diego
Karma: 4
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I had the same problem.
I put on a new starter, and increased the gauge of wire to the starter. Both negative and positive.
That cured the problem. It seems to be a fairly common problem.
Scott
Scott Nutter
1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, Dave Lenzi super duty mid axle disc brakes, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera installed MSD Atomic EFI
Houston, Texas
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307242 is a reply to message #307238] |
Fri, 16 September 2016 19:38 |
A Hamilto
Messages: 4508 Registered: April 2011
Karma: 39
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David Gardner wrote on Fri, 16 September 2016 19:00Haven't posted in a while, but I have one that has me stumped, and could use some advice..
My engine starts when cold. When the engine is warm and I turn the engine off and then try to restart it, it acts like the battery is nearly dead. I've had the batteries checked at two locations and both say the batteries are good. Once the engine is completely cold, the coach starts just fine.
I recently had both the alternator and starter replaced thinking they were part of the problem (they need replacing anyway) but that did not solve the problem.
After stopping with the engine not running I get a 12 volt reading from the battery, and while the engine is running I get a14.5 reading at the battery, so it appears that the batteries are charging while the engine is running
Coach runs fine until I stop, then it barely cranks over, until it is cold again several hours later.
thanking everyone in advance for your thoughts.
David Gardner
1976 Birchaven (455 motor)
Oxnard Ca http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/gmc-cranking-improve-for-free/p34367-hot-start-problem-2c-battery-2f-starter.html
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307245 is a reply to message #307238] |
Fri, 16 September 2016 20:02 |
bdub
Messages: 1578 Registered: February 2004 Location: Central Texas
Karma: 5
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Before ya turn the distributor, make sure that the mechanical advance
flyweights aren't frozen in the extended position.
On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 7:58 PM, Billy Massey wrote:
> Ya might try retarding the timing just a bit.
>
> On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 7:00 PM, David Gardner wrote:
>
>> Haven’t posted in a while, but I have one that has me stumped, and could
>> use some advice..
>> My engine starts when cold. When the engine is warm and I turn the
>> engine off and then try to restart it, it acts like the battery is nearly
>> dead. I’ve had the batteries checked at two locations and both say the
>> batteries are good. Once the engine is completely cold, the coach starts
>> just fine.
>>
>
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bdub
'76 Palm Beach/Central Texas
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307246 is a reply to message #307238] |
Fri, 16 September 2016 19:58 |
bdub
Messages: 1578 Registered: February 2004 Location: Central Texas
Karma: 5
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Ya might try retarding the timing just a bit.
On Fri, Sep 16, 2016 at 7:00 PM, David Gardner wrote:
> Haven’t posted in a while, but I have one that has me stumped, and could
> use some advice..
> My engine starts when cold. When the engine is warm and I turn the engine
> off and then try to restart it, it acts like the battery is nearly dead.
> I’ve had the batteries checked at two locations and both say the batteries
> are good. Once the engine is completely cold, the coach starts just fine.
> I recently had both the alternator and starter replaced thinking they were
> part of the problem (they need replacing anyway) but that did not solve the
> problem.
> After stopping with the engine not running I get a 12 volt reading from
> the battery, and while the engine is running I get a14.5 reading at the
> battery, so it appears that the batteries are charging while the engine is
> running
> Coach runs fine until I stop, then it barely cranks over, until it is cold
> again several hours later.
> thanking everyone in advance for your thoughts.
>
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bdub
'76 Palm Beach/Central Texas
www.bdub.net
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www.gmcmotorhomemarketplace.com
www.gmcmhregistry.com
www.facebook.com/groups/classicgmcmotorhomes
www.facebook.com/groups/gmcmm
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307253 is a reply to message #307250] |
Fri, 16 September 2016 21:58 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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I will start by saying that this is exactly the symptoms my coach had before I discovered that the started was toast about 10K miles back. (He got it down, cracked the back plate off and said,"Oh God - That's not fixing here!")
Now -
While we are at it, a good battery at rest should read 12.6 with some load. Maybe 12.7 with zero load. If you don't see that, first go to a car parts store and check your meter on a new battery on the shelf. Then, get an new battery. but the hot/cold is so reminiscent of my starter failure, that I think that you should look there when you don't find some other answer. A starter is the only heavy spare part I carry. There is a reason.
A 10MT starter is so robust that it was used from 1956 to the late 90s. The problem is that it is Too Robust. It will keep trying when it should have quit and gone home long before. Then the is the problem that the 10MT for the TH425 went out of production 38 years ago. You can get a rebuilt, but don't expect it to be in anybody X-stock list. If you haven't looked into your starter recently, think about it. Changing brushes is cheap and easy.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307286 is a reply to message #307285] |
Sat, 17 September 2016 15:07 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806 Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Most of the starter failures can be traced to the solenoid contactor disc.
It no longer is solid copper, but a cheap substitute that has a thin copper
foil like coating that will not handle the amperage loads of the starter.
It arcs off a bit of the foil coating with each use. It is staked on to the
solenoid plunger and is difficult to remove and reverse like the solid disc
can. So, definitely, the solenoid should be included in your spare parts.
Thrust washers, and brushes, as well as the bushing in the nose casting.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Sep 17, 2016 12:52 PM, "KB" wrote:
> Any suggestions on a good rebuild kit (or what should be in such a kit)?
> Seems like cheap insurance and lighter/cheaper than carrying around a
> whole spare starter.
> Might not always be able to fix it, but a rebuild kit could keep you from
> being stranded
> (or you could just do a pre-emptive rebuild with it).
>
> thanks,
> Karen
> 1975 26'
>
>
> Matt Colie wrote on Fri, 16 September 2016 19:58
>> A 10MT starter is so robust that it was used from 1956 to the late 90s.
> The problem is that it is Too Robust. It will keep trying when it should
>> have quit and gone home long before. Then the is the problem that the
> 10MT for the TH425 went out of production 38 years ago. You can get a
>> rebuilt, but don't expect it to be in anybody X-stock list. If you
> haven't looked into your starter recently, think about it. Changing
> brushes is
>> cheap and easy.
>
>
>
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307291 is a reply to message #307285] |
Sat, 17 September 2016 15:13 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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When we removed Lou Boone's transmission two weeks ago for Manny to rebuild
it here, we broke the starter. Cracked the bakelite housing which supports
the primary 12VDC connection. Rather than fool with tearing down one of
the old starters laying around here for a replacement housing, we took it
to the local Carb/Ignition shop. Charlie Smith, the owner, is about 65.
He started work at 17 for one of my grandfather's best friends. He now
owns the shop, piled high with old carbs, starters, generators and
alternators. He won't touch a fuel injected car, 'tho' he does do diesel
mechanical fuel injection.
We took Lou's starter to him on Thursday afternoon: "Charlie, is there any
way you can possibly get this fixed by quitting time tomorrow so we can
install it over the weekend?" "Aw man, I'm so busy, NO WAY! ... OK, have
my wife check it in and I'll see what I can do -- but don't count on it."
On the way home from lunch, we stopped at Charlie's to pick up the starter,
fixed or not. What we found was a shiny new-looking one. "It was in
pretty good shape, brushes looked real good. But one armature bushing was
worn so I replaced it. Found a near-new switch housing on an old starter.
It should work OK now..." Total bill? $22.00. :-) Good Ol' Charlie!
Ken H.
Matt Colie wrote on Fri, 16 September 2016 19:58
>> A 10MT starter is so robust that it was used from 1956 to the late 90s.
> The problem is that it is Too Robust. It will keep trying when it should
>> have quit and gone home long before. Then the is the problem that the
> 10MT for the TH425 went out of production 38 years ago. You can get a
>> rebuilt, but don't expect it to be in anybody X-stock list. If you
> haven't looked into your starter recently, think about it. Changing
> brushes is
>> cheap and easy.
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307302 is a reply to message #307285] |
Sat, 17 September 2016 18:45 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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KB wrote on Sat, 17 September 2016 15:51Any suggestions on a good rebuild kit (or what should be in such a kit)?
Seems like cheap insurance and lighter/cheaper than carrying around a whole spare starter.
Might not always be able to fix it, but a rebuild kit could keep you from being stranded (or you could just do a pre-emptive rebuild with it).
thanks,
Karen
1975 26'
Karen,
The pre-emptive rebuild is really the good idea.
If you had a set of brushes and screws for same, you could probably bring a dead starter back to life.
But,
Of the two that I have seen that failed in service, they really needed the commutator trued (takes a lathe) and the front bushing changed out.
(One of those was mine and it was Sunday afternoon in BF Egypt.)
If you were wondering, the life seems to be about that of a 455 *1.25. So the simple answer would be, if you have the engine out, rebuild the starter while all you have to do is pick it off the floor. If you are doing anything that requires getting the starter down, three little fasteners and the back plate gets open. Look inside and see how much brush is left. If the brush arm is within 1/16 of the commutator, think about getting that taken care of before it goes back in.
My starter that I have is fresh. I carry the known good used starter just in case some friend needs it.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307303 is a reply to message #307291] |
Sat, 17 September 2016 18:52 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Ken Henderson wrote on Sat, 17 September 2016 16:13When we removed Lou Boone's transmission two weeks ago for Manny to rebuild
it here, we broke the starter. Cracked the bakelite housing which supports the primary 12VDC connection. Rather than fool with tearing down one of
the old starters laying around here for a replacement housing, we took it to the local Carb/Ignition shop. Charlie Smith, the owner, is about 65.
He started work at 17 for one of my grandfather's best friends.
<snip>
On the way home from lunch, we stopped at Charlie's to pick up the starter, fixed or not. What we found was a shiny new-looking one. "It was in
pretty good shape, brushes looked real good. But one armature bushing was worn so I replaced it. Found a near-new switch housing on an old starter.
It should work OK now..." Total bill? $22.00. Good Ol' Charlie!
Ken H.
Ken,
I think you know how lucky you are to have Charlie around.
I just lost my best local shop to a strip mall and the second choice shop is getting kind of shabby looking and he can't even keep a kid to do the grunt work. I give him one - maybe two years more.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307308 is a reply to message #307238] |
Sat, 17 September 2016 20:17 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412 Registered: May 2011 Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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Dollar Carburetor and Electric in Gainesville, GA. "Here's the brush kit and nose bushing, I'll have the module after 7 tomorrow morning. 19 bux for the parts. Works like a new one.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307317 is a reply to message #307238] |
Sun, 18 September 2016 01:58 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117 Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Read here
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5493-gmc-cranking-improve-for-free.html
On Friday, September 16, 2016, David Gardner wrote:
> Haven’t posted in a while, but I have one that has me stumped, and could
> use some advice..
> My engine starts when cold. When the engine is warm and I turn the engine
> off and then try to restart it, it acts like the battery is nearly dead.
> I’ve had the batteries checked at two locations and both say the batteries
> are good. Once the engine is completely cold, the coach starts just fine.
> I recently had both the alternator and starter replaced thinking they were
> part of the problem (they need replacing anyway) but that did not solve the
> problem.
> After stopping with the engine not running I get a 12 volt reading from
> the battery, and while the engine is running I get a14.5 reading at the
> battery, so it appears that the batteries are charging while the engine is
> running
> Coach runs fine until I stop, then it barely cranks over, until it is cold
> again several hours later.
> thanking everyone in advance for your thoughts.
>
> David Gardner
> 1976 Birchaven (455 motor)
> Oxnard Ca
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Re: [GMCnet] (UPDATE)Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307356 is a reply to message #307238] |
Sun, 18 September 2016 18:53 |
David Gardner
Messages: 62 Registered: June 2014
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Thanks to all for your suggestions. They were all greatly appreciated. I have checked all my battery connections, and everything looks good.
Both my batteries have been checked by two different battery stores, and they say the batteries are good.
I have just noticed that when I put my key into the ignition, and depress it slightly, I get a buzz from the battery isolator. Is this normal?
Over the last few days the coach has gone from starting when cold, to barely starting at all, to now not starting at all.
I checked and I do have voltage (12.5) going down the starter.
At the moment I am only getting a click when I turn the key to start the engine. Batteries are still showing 12.5 volts when I check the battery with the volt meter.
> On Sep 16, 2016, at 5:00 PM, David Gardner wrote:
>
> Haven’t posted in a while, but I have one that has me stumped, and could use some advice..
> My engine starts when cold. When the engine is warm and I turn the engine off and then try to restart it, it acts like the battery is nearly dead. I’ve had the batteries checked at two locations and both say the batteries are good. Once the engine is completely cold, the coach starts just fine.
> I recently had both the alternator and starter replaced thinking they were part of the problem (they need replacing anyway) but that did not solve the problem.
> After stopping with the engine not running I get a 12 volt reading from the battery, and while the engine is running I get a14.5 reading at the battery, so it appears that the batteries are charging while the engine is running
> Coach runs fine until I stop, then it barely cranks over, until it is cold again several hours later.
> thanking everyone in advance for your thoughts.
>
> David Gardner
> 1976 Birchaven (455 motor)
> Oxnard Ca
>
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Re: [GMCnet] (UPDATE)Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307358 is a reply to message #307356] |
Sun, 18 September 2016 18:57 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797 Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Ignition switch.
Sully
77 eleganza 2
Seattle
On Sunday, September 18, 2016, David Gardner wrote:
> Thanks to all for your suggestions. They were all greatly appreciated. I
> have checked all my battery connections, and everything looks good.
> Both my batteries have been checked by two different battery stores, and
> they say the batteries are good.
>
> I have just noticed that when I put my key into the ignition, and depress
> it slightly, I get a buzz from the battery isolator. Is this normal?
>
> Over the last few days the coach has gone from starting when cold, to
> barely starting at all, to now not starting at all.
> I checked and I do have voltage (12.5) going down the starter.
> At the moment I am only getting a click when I turn the key to start the
> engine. Batteries are still showing 12.5 volts when I check the battery
> with the volt meter.
>
>
>> On Sep 16, 2016, at 5:00 PM, David Gardner > wrote:
>>
>> Haven’t posted in a while, but I have one that has me stumped, and could
> use some advice..
>> My engine starts when cold. When the engine is warm and I turn the
> engine off and then try to restart it, it acts like the battery is nearly
> dead. I’ve had the batteries checked at two locations and both say the
> batteries are good. Once the engine is completely cold, the coach starts
> just fine.
>> I recently had both the alternator and starter replaced thinking they
> were part of the problem (they need replacing anyway) but that did not
> solve the problem.
>> After stopping with the engine not running I get a 12 volt reading from
> the battery, and while the engine is running I get a14.5 reading at the
> battery, so it appears that the batteries are charging while the engine is
> running
>> Coach runs fine until I stop, then it barely cranks over, until it is
> cold again several hours later.
>> thanking everyone in advance for your thoughts.
>>
>> David Gardner
>> 1976 Birchaven (455 motor)
>> Oxnard Ca
>>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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Re: [GMCnet] (UPDATE)Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307361 is a reply to message #307356] |
Sun, 18 September 2016 19:43 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726 Registered: March 2004 Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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David,
When you say you have 12.5 VDC at the starter, is that with the starter
activated? Otherwise, it's a virtually meaningless number. It's the
voltage under load that's important, and it must be measured at the battery
cable BOLT on the starter -- NOT at the cable end.
I've seen two instances within the past 6 months, one of them my own, where
similar problems were due to battery cables which were apparently good, but
the end terminals did not make perfect contact with the cable itself. In
one instance, there was smoke from the terminal while cranking. The other
terminal pulled off under severe manual twisting -- revealing severe
corrosion. New cables cured both problems.
Ken H.
On Sun, Sep 18, 2016 at 7:53 PM, David Gardner wrote:
> Thanks to all for your suggestions. They were all greatly appreciated. I
> have checked all my battery connections, and everything looks good.
> Both my batteries have been checked by two different battery stores, and
> they say the batteries are good.
>
> I have just noticed that when I put my key into the ignition, and depress
> it slightly, I get a buzz from the battery isolator. Is this normal?
>
> Over the last few days the coach has gone from starting when cold, to
> barely starting at all, to now not starting at all.
> I checked and I do have voltage (12.5) going down the starter.
> At the moment I am only getting a click when I turn the key to start the
> engine. Batteries are still showing 12.5 volts when I check the battery
> with the volt meter.
>
>
>> On Sep 16, 2016, at 5:00 PM, David Gardner wrote:
>>
>> Haven’t posted in a while, but I have one that has me stumped, and could
> use some advice..
>> My engine starts when cold. When the engine is warm and I turn the
> engine off and then try to restart it, it acts like the battery is nearly
> dead. I’ve had the batteries checked at two locations and both say the
> batteries are good. Once the engine is completely cold, the coach starts
> just fine.
>> I recently had both the alternator and starter replaced thinking they
> were part of the problem (they need replacing anyway) but that did not
> solve the problem.
>> After stopping with the engine not running I get a 12 volt reading from
> the battery, and while the engine is running I get a14.5 reading at the
> battery, so it appears that the batteries are charging while the engine is
> running
>> Coach runs fine until I stop, then it barely cranks over, until it is
> cold again several hours later.
>> thanking everyone in advance for your thoughts.
>>
>> David Gardner
>> 1976 Birchaven (455 motor)
>> Oxnard Ca
>>
>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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Re: [GMCnet] (UPDATE)Engine starts when cold, won't crank when warm [message #307380 is a reply to message #307361] |
Mon, 19 September 2016 02:08 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Ken Henderson wrote on Sun, 18 September 2016 19:43David,
When you say you have 12.5 VDC at the starter, is that with the starter
activated? Otherwise, it's a virtually meaningless number. It's the
voltage under load that's important, and it must be measured at the battery
cable BOLT on the starter -- NOT at the cable end.
I've seen two instances within the past 6 months, one of them my own, where
similar problems were due to battery cables which were apparently good, but
the end terminals did not make perfect contact with the cable itself. In
one instance, there was smoke from the terminal while cranking. The other
terminal pulled off under severe manual twisting -- revealing severe
corrosion. New cables cured both problems.
Ken H.
On Sun, Sep 18, 2016 at 7:53 PM, David Gardner wrote:
> Thanks to all for your suggestions. They were all greatly appreciated. I
> have checked all my battery connections, and everything looks good.
> Both my batteries have been checked by two different battery stores, and
> they say the batteries are good.
>
> I have just noticed that when I put my key into the ignition, and depress
> it slightly, I get a buzz from the battery isolator. Is this normal?
>
> Over the last few days the coach has gone from starting when cold, to
> barely starting at all, to now not starting at all.
> I checked and I do have voltage (12.5) going down the starter.
> At the moment I am only getting a click when I turn the key to start the
> engine. Batteries are still showing 12.5 volts when I check the battery
> with the volt meter.
>
>
>> On Sep 16, 2016, at 5:00 PM, David Gardner wrote:
>>
>> Haven't posted in a while, but I have one that has me stumped, and could
> use some advice..
>> My engine starts when cold. When the engine is warm and I turn the
> engine off and then try to restart it, it acts like the battery is nearly
> dead. I've had the batteries checked at two locations and both say the
> batteries are good. Once the engine is completely cold, the coach starts
> just fine.
>> I recently had both the alternator and starter replaced thinking they
> were part of the problem (they need replacing anyway) but that did not
> solve the problem.
>> After stopping with the engine not running I get a 12 volt reading from
> the battery, and while the engine is running I get a14.5 reading at the
> battery, so it appears that the batteries are charging while the engine is
> running
>> Coach runs fine until I stop, then it barely cranks over, until it is
> cold again several hours later.
>> thanking everyone in advance for your thoughts.
>>
>> David Gardner
>> 1976 Birchaven (455 motor)
>> Oxnard Ca
>>
>
>
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Well, Colonel Ken beat me to it. I was going to ask the same thing. What it the voltage at the starter when you are trying to start it. What is the voltage at the battery when you are trying to start it? What is the voltage at the small terminal on the starter solenoid when you hear the clicking.
If the voltages at the starter are good, and the voltage on the small terminal on the solenoid is very low or bouncing around, then Jim Hupy's previous suggestion here of a bad ignition switch is the most probably cause. It could also be a bad neutral safety switch, but odds are it is the ignition switch.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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