Radiator is back in place, still hoses to hook up. Removed the oil cooler adapter and steel lines, the adapter retaining bolt was only finger tight. Explains how dirty the engine is back there.

Big question for you folks, were the trans cooler tubes originally all metal? One is metal, the other had a piece of hose clamped to the tubing right behind the radiator. Both ends of that tube had flares, but no nuts so I'm thinking somebody cut out a section and flared the cut ends to give a better seal on the hose. A new steel line from the radiator to the cut end, and a compression fitting to join the two should do it. The cooler pressure is low enough, a compression fitting should be fine.

Pulled the heater hoses and capped the engine fittings for now. The coach has the lines running back to the water heater, not sure if I'll bother with those since the seller said the hot water heater is disconnected as it leaked. Doubt that many new heaters have a coolant fed preheater. Repaired some 12v ignition wiring, tried to make some sense out of the vacuum hoses. That's going to be a job for later, the ones that are left are all connected, empty connectors are capped off.

Still have to replace the air pressure switch, it sat right where the bolts go to hold the radiator saddle and didn't look healthy. The placement of the switch is really odd, can't imagine why the mounting bracket is welded in place when there's no room to rotate the switch to thread it into the fitting. The plan is to use a 90° fitting to swing it to the driver's side.

All in all, a productive day. Still couldn't run the engine for long, but did put it in gear and feel the trans engage. With luck, next week it moves under it's own power.

Thanks again for everybody's input!

John

John,

I'm surprised no one has mentioned that the radiator is grounded to the engine via the transmission oil cooler lines

Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426

I do not like the heater lines being capped. I believe that you still need the coolant flowing from the back of the engine to keep the manifold and heads cooled. I would run a hose between the two ports instead of capping them.

some larger industrial radiator shops also repair gas tanks. If there is
one in your area that re cores radiators for heavy equipment you might
inquire there for your tank seam repair.

sully
77 eleganza 2

Thanks, I figured they probably should be metal, even if only for a little extra cooling from being exposed to airflow under the coach. I'll pick up a piece of 5/16" steel tubing before heading down there again.

Thought of another question - how repairable are seam leaks on these fuel tanks? The seller removed the main tank because it was leaking at the side seam, but still has the tank. Don't know which route would be more cost effective, having the old one repaired or trying to find a used tank....


John

My biggest fear is about the fuel fill pipe. When the main (rear) tank was
removed, I hope they didn't do anything permanent to the fill pipe.

What happened to the fill pipe? I thought you just had a weeping seam.

Manny made a bunch of fuel cells. 50 gallon single tanks for the diesel.

Sully
77 eleganza 2
Seattle