Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing...
| [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306338] |
Thu, 01 September 2016 18:07  |
Neil Roach
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Registered: August 2016
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Checked the main fuse and it was fine. Then tried jumping #9 to #5 and nothing, no sound at all. Then I noticed there was ANOTHER #5 so I tried that one, no noise at all. So tried Ken’s idea of jumping an external 12 volts to the + side of the coil. Right away I heard the fuel pump run and it fired up almost instantly and ran very well. Let it run for about 15 seconds and then yanked the wire and it stopped. SO, where should I go from here?
Again, thank to everyone for their ideas and suggestions!
Neil Roach
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
1977 Kingsley 26 ‘ (Elvis)
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306339 is a reply to message #306338] |
Thu, 01 September 2016 18:41  |
A Hamilto
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Neil Roach wrote on Thu, 01 September 2016 18:07Checked the main fuse and it was fine. Then tried jumping #9 to #5 and nothing, no sound at all. Then I noticed there was ANOTHER #5 so I tried that one, no noise at all. So tried Ken's idea of jumping an external 12 volts to the + side of the coil. Right away I heard the fuel pump run and it fired up almost instantly and ran very well. Let it run for about 15 seconds and then yanked the wire and it stopped. SO, where should I go from here?
Again, thank to everyone for their ideas and suggestions!
Neil Roach
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
1977 Kingsley 26 ' (Elvis) The only thing between pin 5 and the battery (12V) is that fuse that you said was fine. There is a disconnect between the battery and pin 5 somewhere. My guess would be corrosion in the fuseholder, or the fuse is not fine.
Did you just look at the fuse, or pull it out and check for continuity?
Read this until you understand it: http://gmcws.org/Tech/dsimmons/onan/onan.html
The good news is the engine is sound.
Did you check for 120VAC when it was running?
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306341 is a reply to message #306338] |
Thu, 01 September 2016 19:11 |
mghamms
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Registered: March 2016
Location: Ware, Massachusetts
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Something bad on the board. Probably a relay if the fuse and connections are good. Just get the new dino board and be done with it.
Neil Roach wrote on Thu, 01 September 2016 18:07Checked the main fuse and it was fine. Then tried jumping #9 to #5 and nothing, no sound at all. Then I noticed there was ANOTHER #5 so I tried that one, no noise at all. So tried Ken's idea of jumping an external 12 volts to the + side of the coil. Right away I heard the fuel pump run and it fired up almost instantly and ran very well. Let it run for about 15 seconds and then yanked the wire and it stopped. SO, where should I go from here?
Again, thank to everyone for their ideas and suggestions!
Neil Roach
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
1977 Kingsley 26 ' (Elvis)
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1977 Kingsley 455 as stock as it gets except lots of Ragusa parts
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306343 is a reply to message #306341] |
Thu, 01 September 2016 19:18 |
Jim Miller
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On Sep 1, 2016, at 8:11 PM, Mike Hamm wrote:
> Something bad on the board. Probably a relay if the fuse and connections are good. Just get the new dino board and be done with it.
Agree wholeheartedly…and get the Dino with the soldered-on pigtail. I know the original spade lugs lasted a long time but why introduce a potential point of failure that serves no positive purpose?
—Jim
Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
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Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza II
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306344 is a reply to message #306339] |
Thu, 01 September 2016 19:26 |
Neil Roach
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Ok, back out to check the fuse. While trying to get it out I shorted something which resulted in a small puff of smoke and the fuse blowing. Checked the fuse and it was 20A, that’s not good so I found a 5A fuse and put it in. Did the 12v jumper thing again and it fired right up right away. So just for clarity, are you talking about the top #5 connection or the bottom #5 connection? Silly question but where should I be checking for 120v when it is running?
Thanks,
Neil
> On Sep 1, 2016, at 5:41 PM, A. wrote:
>
> Neil Roach wrote on Thu, 01 September 2016 18:07
>> Checked the main fuse and it was fine. Then tried jumping #9 to #5 and nothing, no sound at all. Then I noticed there was ANOTHER #5 so I tried
>> that one, no noise at all. So tried Ken's idea of jumping an external 12 volts to the + side of the coil. Right away I heard the fuel pump run and
>> it fired up almost instantly and ran very well. Let it run for about 15 seconds and then yanked the wire and it stopped. SO, where should I go from
>> here?
>>
>> Again, thank to everyone for their ideas and suggestions!
>>
>> Neil Roach
>> Calgary, Alberta, Canada
>> 1977 Kingsley 26 ' (Elvis)
> The only thing between pin 5 and the battery (12V) is that fuse that you said was fine. There is a disconnect between the battery and pin 5 somewhere.
> My guess would be corrosion in the fuseholder, or the fuse is not fine.
>
> Did you just look at the fuse, or pull it out and check for continuity?
>
> Read this until you understand it: http://gmcws.org/Tech/dsimmons/onan/onan.html
>
> The good news is the engine is sound.
>
> Did you check for 120VAC when it was running?
> --
> 73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
> 73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
> Upper Alabama
> "Highest price does not guarantee highest quality."
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306346 is a reply to message #306344] |
Thu, 01 September 2016 21:00 |
A Hamilto
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Registered: April 2011
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Neil Roach wrote on Thu, 01 September 2016 19:26Ok, back out to check the fuse. While trying to get it out I shorted something which resulted in a small puff of smoke and the fuse blowing. Checked the fuse and it was 20A, that's not good so I found a 5A fuse and put it in. Did the 12v jumper thing again and it fired right up right away. So just for clarity, are you talking about the top #5 connection or the bottom #5 connection? Silly question but where should I be checking for 120v when it is running?
Thanks,
Neil Both no. 5 pins are electrically identical. There is wire or a board trace connecting them. If not, there is a break in the wire or the trace. Disconnect the battery and use your meter to see if there is zero ohms between them. If there is resistance, jumper the two no. 5 pins together and see if it starts and runs. If it does, you can make the jumper permanent and you're done.
Folks are telling you to buy a new board. Nobody even suggested checking the low oil pressure switch or that the flywheel alternator is getting voltage to pin 8, or if a PO has disabled the voltage regulator incorrectly. And you didn't say if you tried to start it without the jumper from 5 to 9 after you changed the fuse to 5A.
If the generator starts and runs with the two no. 5 pins jumpered together and no other jumpers, don't replace the board. Make a wire the right length with female space connectors on each end and connect both of the no. 5 pins permanently.
If that is not the problem, you still need to make sure there is about 26 - 30 VAC on pin 8 when it is running (that tells the board that the engine is turning so the board keeps power to the fuel pump and ignition) and that pin 12 is not grounded when it is running (a ground means no oil pressure, or a malfunctioning oil pressure switch).
Again READ DUANE SIMMONS' TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE (posted previously) OVER AND OVER AGAIN UNTIL YOU UNDERSTAND HOW TO KNOW IF THE BOARD IS BAD.
Once you rule out what else can be wrong (if anything) then you can decide if you want to buy a replacement board or get the one you got repaired.
You might have something else other than the board preventing the Onan from running (flywheel alternator voltage too low or not getting to the board, or stuck oil pressure switch). If the flywheel alternator isn't working, or the oil pressure switch has short circuited, the board could be working correctly and it still won't run.
You can buy a hundred boards and none of them will work if something else is wrong.
Checking for 120V varies from year model to year model, and by upfitter. Some used jigs in the breaker box to go from shore power to Onan and some used a plug and receptacle. Read your Operating Manual to figure out how to switch from shore power to generator power, and set it up for generator power, then fire up the Onan. Plug a lamp into a wall socket and see if it makes light. Then try a roof AC unit.
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306348 is a reply to message #306338] |
Thu, 01 September 2016 21:56 |
JohnL455
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Location: Woodstock, IL
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The solder points for the fuse holders are wimpy at best. Since the wrong fuse was jammed in there there us a good chance they broke solder. You can remove the board and if you have any electronics repair skills, examine and repair the solder side of the board for pennies. Or send it to Johnny as suggested earlier. Just so you understand, the board is all low volt engine management and protection only. The 125VAC section is all in the gennerator and top mounted breaker which powers the receptical in the shore cord storage compartment.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306349 is a reply to message #306348] |
Thu, 01 September 2016 22:32 |
A Hamilto
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Registered: April 2011
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JohnL455 wrote on Thu, 01 September 2016 21:56The solder points for the fuse holders are wimpy at best. Since the wrong fuse was jammed in there there us a good chance they broke solder. You can remove the board and if you have any electronics repair skills, examine and repair the solder side of the board for pennies. Or send it to Johnny as suggested earlier. Just so you understand, the board is all low volt engine management and protection only. The 125VAC section is all in the gennerator and top mounted breaker which powers the receptical in the shore cord storage compartment. If he jumpered pin 5 to pin 9 and the Onan started and ran, the solder didn't break. That fuse/holder is the connection from pin 5 to the battery.
If it won't run without 5 to 9 being jumpered, either pin 8 is not getting flywheel alternator voltage, or pin 12 is shorting to ground through a bad oil pressure switch, or other board problem.
He needs to check the voltage at pin 8 and resistance at pin 12 while it is running to decide if the board is malfunctioning. It might not be.
He also needs to jump both pins 5 together. If the voltage at pin 8 is right and 11 is not shorted to ground, it might run with the two pin 5 locations jumpered together and no other jumpers. If so, he is done troubleshooting the board.
Then he can move on to the 120VAC part.
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306352 is a reply to message #306338] |
Thu, 01 September 2016 23:43 |
Ken Burton
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Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
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Neil, You have people pulling you several directions and checking things BEFORE you get the engine running. Let's do this in simple steps. After we get the engine running we can check the other suggested stuff if necessary.
1. The oil pressure switch will NOT prevent you from starting. It will prevent you from continuing to run after it first fires. So unless you have it trying to start and then it immediately dies, forget the oil pressure switch for now. Note: You can cripple the oil pressure switch if you wish by simply unplugging it from the board pin 12 or at the switch.
2. The engine driven alternator will act the same way. Start (fire a few times) and die. So I doubt at this point you have a problem with that.
3. 120 volt output has nothing to do with making the engine run. So forget that for now.
I would like to start from where you left off. We now know that the ignition and fuel pump are OK because it will run when jumpered direct to +12 volts. So we need to find out why there is no +12 volts being supplied to the ignition and fuel pump when trying to run from the board. (I suspect a wiring issue or a bad K3 on the board.)
Pin 5 is the same no matter which one of the two that you use you choose to use. Pin 5 is fused +12 volts and is on the output side of that 5 amp fuse on the board. Pin 11 is the +12 volt input side of the board. BOTH of these pins should read +12 volts all the time. So check those first.
Pin 9 is the +12 volt output from the board that supplies the fuel pump and the ignition. There should be +12 volts there at pin 9 when you are cranking and also when you are running. So check the voltage on pin 9 when you are cranking. If it is there, then you have a wiring problem between pin 9 and the ignition / fuel pump. If you suspect a wiring error or defect between pin 9 and the ignition / fuel pump, simply install a temporary jumper between pin 9 and the + side of the coil.
Please let me know what you find.
If you want to talk on the phone, look up my number on the black list under Ken Burton, Hebron, IN
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306361 is a reply to message #306338] |
Fri, 02 September 2016 08:28 |
jhbridges
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Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
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OK, it runs. Let me suggest you look now at the two most likely failure points - the Molex<tm> connector in the pigtail and the push - on terminals on the circuit board. The best way to test these is end - to - end with your ohmmeter. Remove the 12V feed, then test each wire from its push on on the circuit board to wherever the other end of the wire goes. One to ground, one to the coil solenoid and pump, one to the oil pressure sender, four to the remote panel (Don't worry about them right now) and maybe a couple others. If all of them show continuity, it's time to look at the board itself.
Note that to fix the Molex<tm> pins you need a pin remover. If you find a problem in it on one or more wires, the move is to replace the pigtail completely. You can insert the pins without any tools, but you need the removal tool to get them out. All the connectors and a 12 pin Molex set are available fairly cheaply on ebay. Use #18 heat resistant wire everywhere.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306377 is a reply to message #306352] |
Fri, 02 September 2016 11:41 |
A Hamilto
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Registered: April 2011
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Ken Burton wrote on Thu, 01 September 2016 23:43Neil, You have people pulling you several directions and checking things BEFORE you get the engine running. Let's do this in simple steps. After we get the engine running we can check the other suggested stuff if necessary.
...
Pin 9 is the +12 volt output from the board that supplies the fuel pump and the ignition. There should be +12 volts there at pin 9 when you are cranking and also when you are running. So check the voltage on pin 9 when you are cranking. If it is there, then you have a wiring problem between pin 9 and the ignition / fuel pump. If you suspect a wiring error or defect between pin 9 and the ignition / fuel pump, simply install a temporary jumper between pin 9 and the + side of the coil.
Please let me know what you find.
If you want to talk on the phone, look up my number on the black list under Ken Burton, Hebron, IN He said it is running off the battery. If he fed 12V to the coil, I am guessing the wire from the coil back to the board is feeding the fuel pump via pin 9.
That is why we moved on to checking for 120VAC. It will need to be able to make 120VAC before it is worthwhile to repair or replace the board.
If it won't make 120VAC, all he has is a nice little garden tractor engine, not a genset.
At any rate, I hope he calls you. You can talk him through it better than we can all type.
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306383 is a reply to message #306377] |
Fri, 02 September 2016 13:07 |
Neil Roach
Messages: 29
Registered: August 2016
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Pin #5 and pin#11 read 12 volts. When cranking the engine (without jumper), no voltage at pin #9. When the jumper wire is installed to the coil there is 12v at pin #9 when cranking and running.
Neil
> On Sep 2, 2016, at 10:41 AM, A. wrote:
>
> Ken Burton wrote on Thu, 01 September 2016 23:43
>> Neil, You have people pulling you several directions and checking things BEFORE you get the engine running. Let's do this in simple steps. After
>> we get the engine running we can check the other suggested stuff if necessary.
>> ...
>> Pin 9 is the +12 volt output from the board that supplies the fuel pump and the ignition. There should be +12 volts there at pin 9 when you are
>> cranking and also when you are running. So check the voltage on pin 9 when you are cranking. If it is there, then you have a wiring problem
>> between pin 9 and the ignition / fuel pump. If you suspect a wiring error or defect between pin 9 and the ignition / fuel pump, simply install a
>> temporary jumper between pin 9 and the + side of the coil.
>>
>> Please let me know what you find.
>>
>> If you want to talk on the phone, look up my number on the black list under Ken Burton, Hebron, IN
> He said it is running off the battery. If he fed 12V to the coil, I am guessing the wire from the coil back to the board is feeding the fuel pump via
> pin 9.
>
> That is why we moved on to checking for 120VAC. It will need to be able to make 120VAC before it is worthwhile to repair or replace the board.
>
> If it won't make 120VAC, all he has is a nice little garden tractor engine, not a genset.
>
> At any rate, I hope he calls you. You can talk him through it better than we can all type.
> --
> 73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
> 73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
> Upper Alabama
> "Highest price does not guarantee highest quality."
>
> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306385 is a reply to message #306383] |
Fri, 02 September 2016 13:17 |
Neil Roach
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Registered: August 2016
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I also jumped pin#5 to pin #9 and its cranks, starts and runs nicely.
> On Sep 2, 2016, at 12:07 PM, Neil Roach wrote:
>
> Pin #5 and pin#11 read 12 volts. When cranking the engine (without jumper), no voltage at pin #9. When the jumper wire is installed to the coil there is 12v at pin #9 when cranking and running.
>
> Neil
>
>
>> On Sep 2, 2016, at 10:41 AM, A. wrote:
>>
>> Ken Burton wrote on Thu, 01 September 2016 23:43
>>> Neil, You have people pulling you several directions and checking things BEFORE you get the engine running. Let's do this in simple steps. After
>>> we get the engine running we can check the other suggested stuff if necessary.
>>> ...
>>> Pin 9 is the +12 volt output from the board that supplies the fuel pump and the ignition. There should be +12 volts there at pin 9 when you are
>>> cranking and also when you are running. So check the voltage on pin 9 when you are cranking. If it is there, then you have a wiring problem
>>> between pin 9 and the ignition / fuel pump. If you suspect a wiring error or defect between pin 9 and the ignition / fuel pump, simply install a
>>> temporary jumper between pin 9 and the + side of the coil.
>>>
>>> Please let me know what you find.
>>>
>>> If you want to talk on the phone, look up my number on the black list under Ken Burton, Hebron, IN
>> He said it is running off the battery. If he fed 12V to the coil, I am guessing the wire from the coil back to the board is feeding the fuel pump via
>> pin 9.
>>
>> That is why we moved on to checking for 120VAC. It will need to be able to make 120VAC before it is worthwhile to repair or replace the board.
>>
>> If it won't make 120VAC, all he has is a nice little garden tractor engine, not a genset.
>>
>> At any rate, I hope he calls you. You can talk him through it better than we can all type.
>> --
>> 73 23' Sequoia 4 Sale
>> 73 23' CanyonLands Parts Unit 4 Sale
>> Upper Alabama
>> "Highest price does not guarantee highest quality."
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306388 is a reply to message #306338] |
Fri, 02 September 2016 15:23 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
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OK, if it runs 5 to 9 the board has a problem. Since you found and arced a 20 amp fuse, I suggest you'll find some burned runs on the solder side of the board. You may also of melted the armature on K3. (These were the troubles on the 20Amp fused board I just fixed and sent back)
It ain't hard to fix if you can solder. Take some acetone or whatever, and clean the conformal coating off the burnt runs, then solder a shaped piece of wire across the burnt spot(s). While you have the board out anyway, shotgun the diodes (any general purpose silicon will work) and replace the electrolytics. Parts cost maybe a dollar from ebay. If K3 has seen Jesus send me a note, I'll send you a couple of heathen chinee relays to replace it. When it works on test, recoat the solder side with some conformal coating - General Cement GC-203 works good.
Or just buy the Dinosaur and be done with it 
Check all the wires on the set for scuffed insul;ation/grounds to the engine. No sense to put a new/fixed board in and ruin it again. Please to use a 5 amp fuse only. Everything on the board will stand five amps for the amount of time it takes the fuse to blow. do >not< use a 'slo-blo' fuse.
If you replace the board, how's to throw the bad one in a small flat-rate box and send it down here?
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306422 is a reply to message #306385] |
Sat, 03 September 2016 02:25 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
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Neil Roach wrote on Fri, 02 September 2016 13:07 Pin #5 and pin#11 read 12 volts. When cranking the engine (without jumper), no voltage at pin #9. When the jumper wire is installed to the coil there is 12v at pin #9 when cranking and running.
Neil
We are down to a problem on the board. I would remove the board and look over the board for overall physical condition. I have seen some real bad ones out there. If it looks in decent shape, you could send it to Johnny and have him fix it. You could also order a new "dinosaur board" from Jim Kat Applied GMC. If it is in bad shape just order a new dinosaur board from Jim K.
I believe that I saw previously that you are in Calgary. If so, have Johnny fill out the customs form when returning the board to you saying "Antique Auto Part" and say value $10. That way you will not get stung but the the Canadian Customs guys on the return. Use USPS / Canada Post so you do not have to pay UPS brokerage fees on your end. If you order a new one from Jim K, also tell him to USPS, NOT UPS.
I think you are now at the point where Mr. Hamilton suggested that you might want to check out the generator side of things before you spend money on a new board.
It will generate power with the board not working as long as it is running with 5 and 9 jumpered. So I would throw the jumper on it to make it run. Once it is running it should be generating 120 volt power. I assume that you know how to switch from shore power to generator power. If not, post here and we will tell you how to do it on your 1977 Kingsley. Also in your same post please post whether you have a 3 conductor or 4 conductor shore power plug. Once you get it switched over to generator power, go inside and try something 120 volt powered, or you can use a meter or 3 light 120 volt test light to see if you have 120 volt power inside.
Please let us know what happens and how you choose to proceed from here.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306474 is a reply to message #306422] |
Sat, 03 September 2016 19:09 |
Neil Roach
Messages: 29
Registered: August 2016
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Junior Member |
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I just wanted to wrap this thread up because the generator is now working. With the help of a (new) GMC friend in nearby Olds, Alberta we switched out the Onan board for a spare Dino board he had and away it went! Thank you Jim H. for your time and your loaner board to solve the problem and also for disconnecting the wires to the voltage regulator. Curiously enough, the Onan will start and stop at the unit but ONLY start with the switch by the door. No matter, I’m sending my board off to Johnny Bridges in Georgia for repair. BTW, I was getting about 112v at the inside receptacle when the Generator was running.
Thank you all again
Neil Roach
1977 Kingsley 26’ (Elvis)
Elvis Rocks!
> On Sep 3, 2016, at 1:25 AM, Ken Burton wrote:
>
> Neil Roach wrote on Fri, 02 September 2016 13:07
>> Pin #5 and pin#11 read 12 volts. When cranking the engine (without jumper), no voltage at pin #9. When the jumper wire is installed to the coil
>> there is 12v at pin #9 when cranking and running.
>>
>> Neil
>
> We are down to a problem on the board. I would remove the board and look over the board for overall physical condition. I have seen some real bad
> ones out there. If it looks in decent shape, you could send it to Johnny and have him fix it. You could also order a new "dinosaur board" from Jim
> Kat Applied GMC. If it is in bad shape just order a new dinosaur board from Jim K.
>
> I believe that I saw previously that you are in Calgary. If so, have Johnny fill out the customs form when returning the board to you saying "Antique
> Auto Part" and say value $10. That way you will not get stung but the the Canadian Customs guys on the return. Use USPS / Canada Post so you do not
> have to pay UPS brokerage fees on your end. If you order a new one from Jim K, also tell him to USPS, NOT UPS.
>
> I think you are now at the point where Mr. Hamilton suggested that you might want to check out the generator side of things before you spend money on
> a new board.
>
> It will generate power with the board not working as long as it is running with 5 and 9 jumpered. So I would throw the jumper on it to make it run.
> Once it is running it should be generating 120 volt power. I assume that you know how to switch from shore power to generator power. If not, post
> here and we will tell you how to do it on your 1977 Kingsley. Also in your same post please post whether you have a 3 conductor or 4 conductor shore
> power plug. Once you get it switched over to generator power, go inside and try something 120 volt powered, or you can use a meter or 3 light 120
> volt test light to see if you have 120 volt power inside.
>
> Please let us know what happens and how you choose to proceed from here.
>
> Ken B.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] UPDATE - Oman troubleshooting and testing... [message #306493 is a reply to message #306474] |
Sun, 04 September 2016 04:12 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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That is a common failure. I had it once my self. As Mr Hamilton stated. it is a bad connection on the stop lead. That is usually the connector underneath the Onan on the cable going to the remote start switch. That connection is subject to all of the stuff kicked up off of the road as the coach moves along. Especially in rainy conditions. Yes it could also be a dirty switch. The switch can be disassembled and cleaned.
The AC voltage out is directly related to the engine speed. Increase the speed SLIGHTLY and you will be able to see the voltage increase. I usually set them for 126 VAC with no load. Note: increasing engine speed, will also increase 120 volt frequency. If you have a meter that reads frequency then you could also set the engine speed for 60 or 61 cycles under a no-load condition.
I am glad you found your problem.
Happy generating.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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