Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed
| [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305581] |
Fri, 19 August 2016 00:18  |
Burt and Faye curtis
Messages: 256
Registered: June 2012
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Thanks to the suggestions on which fittings to use to repair the rodent
damage to my black fresh water lines, I have successfully repaired that
section. However, as one might have anticipated, there appears to be
another spot needing repair also. And this time it is not in an easy to
access area. Based solely on the water spray pattern, it appears to be in
the line that runs behind the drawers and the oven area. Can't see the line
with the drawers out, but that is the area getting wet when the water pump
is turned on.
So the questions is, is there an easy way to access this line or do I need
to disconnect it in the closet area and towards the sink and then snake it
out for repair? Not quite sure where it connects up near the sink either.
Thanks in advance,
Fay Curtis
'76 Glenbrook
Kneeland, CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305588 is a reply to message #305581] |
Fri, 19 August 2016 04:57  |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Maybe this will help
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/fresh-water-leak-from-city-water-connection/p26799-slide26.html
On Thursday, August 18, 2016, Burt and Faye curtis <
curtisunlimitedbandf@gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks to the suggestions on which fittings to use to repair the rodent
> damage to my black fresh water lines, I have successfully repaired that
> section. However, as one might have anticipated, there appears to be
> another spot needing repair also. And this time it is not in an easy to
> access area. Based solely on the water spray pattern, it appears to be in
> the line that runs behind the drawers and the oven area. Can't see the line
> with the drawers out, but that is the area getting wet when the water pump
> is turned on.
> So the questions is, is there an easy way to access this line or do I need
> to disconnect it in the closet area and towards the sink and then snake it
> out for repair? Not quite sure where it connects up near the sink either.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Fay Curtis
> '76 Glenbrook
> Kneeland, CA
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305592 is a reply to message #305581] |
Fri, 19 August 2016 07:33 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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in my palm beach, the oven was pretty easily removed in 10 minutes. shut of propane line, disconnect it, and I think just a couple screws into the cabinet and it comes right out. I think it is easy access once the oven is out.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305616 is a reply to message #305581] |
Fri, 19 August 2016 17:40 |
 |
wally
Messages: 643
Registered: August 2004
Location: Omaha Nebraska
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Burt and Faye curtis wrote on Fri, 19 August 2016 00:18Thanks to the suggestions on which fittings to use to repair the rodent
damage to my black fresh water lines, I have successfully repaired that
section. However, as one might have anticipated, there appears to be
another spot needing repair also. And this time it is not in an easy to
access area. Based solely on the water spray pattern, it appears to be in
the line that runs behind the drawers and the oven area. Can't see the line
with the drawers out, but that is the area getting wet when the water pump
is turned on.
So the questions is, is there an easy way to access this line or do I need
to disconnect it in the closet area and towards the sink and then snake it
out for repair? Not quite sure where it connects up near the sink either.
Thanks in advance,
Fay Curtis
'76 Glenbrook
Kneeland, CA
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Here is a picture link to Arch's Glenbrook with the stove removed. On ours stove is held in by screws going sideways into the countertop. Water lines are there.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/winter-projects/p10111.html
Wally Anderson
Omaha NE
75 Glenbrook
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| Re: [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305678 is a reply to message #305616] |
Sat, 20 August 2016 18:54 |
Burt and Faye curtis
Messages: 256
Registered: June 2012
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Thank you for your advice. When I first read about removing the oven I
cringed, But it was one of the easier things that I have done on the coach
and now that it is out, I can give it a much better cleaning than with it
in the coach - double win!
Found the leak and it was behind the first drawer in the kitchen area. I
was able to pull the line enough so I could undo the fitting at the drain
"T" and cut the line above the leak. Hopefully, another shark bite fitting
and the water leaks will be taken care of, but one never knows where a wood
rater is involved, sigh.
Another question though - there is a big factory access hole cut into the
back of this drawer area. Is it suppose to provide access to the line drain
on this section on water run? If it had, getting to my leak might have been
easier still and the drain could actually be used without removing the oven!
Thanks again - it isn't easy being the ony one doing all the work, but with
the help of this great group it is possible!
Fay Curtis
'76 Glenbrook
Kneeland, CA
On Fri, Aug 19, 2016 at 3:40 PM, Wally Anderson
wrote:
> Burt and Faye curtis wrote on Fri, 19 August 2016 00:18
>> Thanks to the suggestions on which fittings to use to repair the rodent
>> damage to my black fresh water lines, I have successfully repaired that
>> section. However, as one might have anticipated, there appears to be
>> another spot needing repair also. And this time it is not in an easy to
>> access area. Based solely on the water spray pattern, it appears to be in
>> the line that runs behind the drawers and the oven area. Can't see the
> line
>> with the drawers out, but that is the area getting wet when the water
> pump
>> is turned on.
>> So the questions is, is there an easy way to access this line or do I
> need
>> to disconnect it in the closet area and towards the sink and then snake
> it
>> out for repair? Not quite sure where it connects up near the sink either.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Fay Curtis
>> '76 Glenbrook
>> Kneeland, CA
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> Here is a picture link to Arch's Glenbrook with the stove removed. On ours
> stove is held in by screws going sideways into the countertop. Water lines
> are there.
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/winter-projects/p10111.html
> --
> Wally Anderson
> 1975 Glenbrook
> Megasquirt 455 port injection science project
> Omaha Nebraska
> Bob Stone hydroBOOOOST
> Greater Midwest Classics
> GMCES
> http://wallyandsue.blogspot.com/
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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| Re: [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305690 is a reply to message #305581] |
Sat, 20 August 2016 22:06 |
captjack
Messages: 271
Registered: February 2010
Location: Sebastopol, California
Karma: 1
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Hi Faye,
I had a similar problem in my Glenbrook, which is what I recall you have. Clasco redid my coach and did replace some of the plumbing so I'm not sure mine matches with yours. I removed the stove as others have suggested, but the leak was behind the drawers and even after removing the stove I couldn't access it. I ended up cutting a hole in the back of the drawer carcase with a sabre saw to access the leak. There was a fitting that had failed. Fortunately the local hardware store had a suitable replacement. Cutting a hole in the back of the case isn't visible under normal circumstances (you have to remove drawers to see it) and it hasn't caused any other problems. I didn't bother to seal up the hole.
Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
'76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
Sebastopol, CA
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| Re: [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305695 is a reply to message #305690] |
Sun, 21 August 2016 05:20 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Did it look different than this?
And my other slides ?
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/fresh-water-leak-from-city-water-connection/p26803-slide61.html
On Saturday, August 20, 2016, Jack Christensen wrote:
> Hi Faye,
> I had a similar problem in my Glenbrook, which is what I recall you have.
> Clasco redid my coach and did replace some of the plumbing so I'm not sure
> mine matches with yours. I removed the stove as others have suggested,
> but the leak was behind the drawers and even after removing the stove I
> couldn't access it. I ended up cutting a hole in the back of the drawer
> carcase with a sabre saw to access the leak. There was a fitting that had
> failed. Fortunately the local hardware store had a suitable replacement.
> Cutting a hole in the back of the case isn't visible under normal
> circumstances (you have to remove drawers to see it) and it hasn't caused
> any other problems. I didn't bother to seal up the hole.
> --
> Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
> '76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
> Sebastopol, CA
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305698 is a reply to message #305695] |
Sun, 21 August 2016 10:22 |
Burt and Faye curtis
Messages: 256
Registered: June 2012
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Yes. I think it was the hot water line that had been chewed (the 3/8"
line). and the drain was connected to a small line that runs outside. That
line is about the diameter of the air lines and is grey. It is also almost
right behind the kitchen drawers. Hence why I think it was suppose to be
able to be accessed thru the back of the top drawer.
Will take photos and post them later today.
In section 24J-2 of the maintenance manual, they show these drain cocks
behind the sink.
Fay Curtis
'76 Glenbrook
Kneeland, CA
On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 3:20 AM, gene Fisher wrote:
> Did it look different than this?
> And my other slides ?
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/fresh-water-leak-from-
> city-water-connection/p26803-slide61.html
>
>
>
> On Saturday, August 20, 2016, Jack Christensen wrote:
>
>> Hi Faye,
>> I had a similar problem in my Glenbrook, which is what I recall you have.
>> Clasco redid my coach and did replace some of the plumbing so I'm not
> sure
>> mine matches with yours. I removed the stove as others have suggested,
>> but the leak was behind the drawers and even after removing the stove I
>> couldn't access it. I ended up cutting a hole in the back of the drawer
>> carcase with a sabre saw to access the leak. There was a fitting that had
>> failed. Fortunately the local hardware store had a suitable replacement.
>> Cutting a hole in the back of the case isn't visible under normal
>> circumstances (you have to remove drawers to see it) and it hasn't caused
>> any other problems. I didn't bother to seal up the hole.
>> --
>> Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
>> '76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
>> Sebastopol, CA
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305699 is a reply to message #305581] |
Sun, 21 August 2016 10:27 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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Hi Fay
If you look at the owners manual ( not the maintenance manual) it tells one to take out a drawer to reach back and open the valves to drain the lines to winterize the coach.
Emery Stora
> On Aug 21, 2016, at 9:22 AM, Burt and Faye curtis wrote:
>
> Yes. I think it was the hot water line that had been chewed (the 3/8"
> line). and the drain was connected to a small line that runs outside. That
> line is about the diameter of the air lines and is grey. It is also almost
> right behind the kitchen drawers. Hence why I think it was suppose to be
> able to be accessed thru the back of the top drawer.
> Will take photos and post them later today.
> In section 24J-2 of the maintenance manual, they show these drain cocks
> behind the sink.
>
> Fay Curtis
> '76 Glenbrook
> Kneeland, CA
>
>
>
>> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 3:20 AM, gene Fisher wrote:
>>
>> Did it look different than this?
>> And my other slides ?
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/fresh-water-leak-from-
>> city-water-connection/p26803-slide61.html
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Saturday, August 20, 2016, Jack Christensen wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Faye,
>>> I had a similar problem in my Glenbrook, which is what I recall you have.
>>> Clasco redid my coach and did replace some of the plumbing so I'm not
>> sure
>>> mine matches with yours. I removed the stove as others have suggested,
>>> but the leak was behind the drawers and even after removing the stove I
>>> couldn't access it. I ended up cutting a hole in the back of the drawer
>>> carcase with a sabre saw to access the leak. There was a fitting that had
>>> failed. Fortunately the local hardware store had a suitable replacement.
>>> Cutting a hole in the back of the case isn't visible under normal
>>> circumstances (you have to remove drawers to see it) and it hasn't caused
>>> any other problems. I didn't bother to seal up the hole.
>>> --
>>> Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
>>> '76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
>>> Sebastopol, CA
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>>
>> --
>> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
>> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
>> -------
>> http://gmcmotorhome.info/
>> Alternator Protection Cable
>> http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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| Re: [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305700 is a reply to message #305699] |
Sun, 21 August 2016 10:43 |
Burt and Faye curtis
Messages: 256
Registered: June 2012
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Emery,
Found what you mentioned. And after looking at my coach, one of the line
drains can be accessed through that hole. However, the offending one isn't
even close and is running much lower.
I am thinking of seeing if I can move it up, maybe even high enough so it
can be accessed through the larger hole behind the top drawer,
Another unanticipated benefit of this project is I get to fix the
connection to the oven light. I thought it had stopped working because the
bulb had burnt out but not so. The connectors had corrosion and went I
pulled them apart to remove the oven, one terminal actually pulled off the
wire totally.
On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 8:27 AM, Emery Stora wrote:
> Hi Fay
> If you look at the owners manual ( not the maintenance manual) it tells
> one to take out a drawer to reach back and open the valves to drain the
> lines to winterize the coach.
>
> Emery Stora
>
>> On Aug 21, 2016, at 9:22 AM, Burt and Faye curtis curtisunlimitedbandf@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Yes. I think it was the hot water line that had been chewed (the 3/8"
>> line). and the drain was connected to a small line that runs outside.
> That
>> line is about the diameter of the air lines and is grey. It is also
> almost
>> right behind the kitchen drawers. Hence why I think it was suppose to be
>> able to be accessed thru the back of the top drawer.
>> Will take photos and post them later today.
>> In section 24J-2 of the maintenance manual, they show these drain cocks
>> behind the sink.
>>
>> Fay Curtis
>> '76 Glenbrook
>> Kneeland, CA
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 3:20 AM, gene Fisher
> wrote:
>>>
>>> Did it look different than this?
>>> And my other slides ?
>>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/fresh-water-leak-from-
>>> city-water-connection/p26803-slide61.html
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Saturday, August 20, 2016, Jack Christensen
> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Hi Faye,
>>>> I had a similar problem in my Glenbrook, which is what I recall you
> have.
>>>> Clasco redid my coach and did replace some of the plumbing so I'm not
>>> sure
>>>> mine matches with yours. I removed the stove as others have suggested,
>>>> but the leak was behind the drawers and even after removing the stove I
>>>> couldn't access it. I ended up cutting a hole in the back of the
> drawer
>>>> carcase with a sabre saw to access the leak. There was a fitting that
> had
>>>> failed. Fortunately the local hardware store had a suitable
> replacement.
>>>> Cutting a hole in the back of the case isn't visible under normal
>>>> circumstances (you have to remove drawers to see it) and it hasn't
> caused
>>>> any other problems. I didn't bother to seal up the hole.
>>>> --
>>>> Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
>>>> '76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
>>>> Sebastopol, CA
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
>>> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
>>> -------
>>> http://gmcmotorhome.info/
>>> Alternator Protection Cable
>>> http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305701 is a reply to message #305700] |
Sun, 21 August 2016 11:28 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
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Since I pump a gallon of water line antifreeze through my lines and faucets I have never used the drains for the lines in the 35 years I have owned the GMC.
Emery Stora
> On Aug 21, 2016, at 9:43 AM, Burt and Faye curtis wrote:
>
> Emery,
>
> Found what you mentioned. And after looking at my coach, one of the line
> drains can be accessed through that hole. However, the offending one isn't
> even close and is running much lower.
> I am thinking of seeing if I can move it up, maybe even high enough so it
> can be accessed through the larger hole behind the top drawer,
> Another unanticipated benefit of this project is I get to fix the
> connection to the oven light. I thought it had stopped working because the
> bulb had burnt out but not so. The connectors had corrosion and went I
> pulled them apart to remove the oven, one terminal actually pulled off the
> wire totally.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 8:27 AM, Emery Stora wrote:
>
>> Hi Fay
>> If you look at the owners manual ( not the maintenance manual) it tells
>> one to take out a drawer to reach back and open the valves to drain the
>> lines to winterize the coach.
>>
>> Emery Stora
>>
>>> On Aug 21, 2016, at 9:22 AM, Burt and Faye curtis > curtisunlimitedbandf@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Yes. I think it was the hot water line that had been chewed (the 3/8"
>>> line). and the drain was connected to a small line that runs outside.
>> That
>>> line is about the diameter of the air lines and is grey. It is also
>> almost
>>> right behind the kitchen drawers. Hence why I think it was suppose to be
>>> able to be accessed thru the back of the top drawer.
>>> Will take photos and post them later today.
>>> In section 24J-2 of the maintenance manual, they show these drain cocks
>>> behind the sink.
>>>
>>> Fay Curtis
>>> '76 Glenbrook
>>> Kneeland, CA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 3:20 AM, gene Fisher
>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Did it look different than this?
>>>> And my other slides ?
>>>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/fresh-water-leak-from-
>>>> city-water-connection/p26803-slide61.html
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> > On Saturday, August 20, 2016, Jack Christensen
>> wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> > Hi Faye,
>>>> > I had a similar problem in my Glenbrook, which is what I recall you
>> have.
>>>> > Clasco redid my coach and did replace some of the plumbing so I'm not
>>>> sure
>>>> > mine matches with yours. I removed the stove as others have suggested,
>>>> > but the leak was behind the drawers and even after removing the stove I
>>>> > couldn't access it. I ended up cutting a hole in the back of the
>> drawer
>>>> > carcase with a sabre saw to access the leak. There was a fitting that
>> had
>>>> > failed. Fortunately the local hardware store had a suitable
>> replacement.
>>>> > Cutting a hole in the back of the case isn't visible under normal
>>>> > circumstances (you have to remove drawers to see it) and it hasn't
>> caused
>>>> > any other problems. I didn't bother to seal up the hole.
>>>> > --
>>>> > Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
>>>> > '76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
>>>> > Sebastopol, CA
>>>> >
>>>> > _______________________________________________
>>>> > GMCnet mailing list
>>>> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>> > http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
>>>> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
>>>> -------
>>>> http://gmcmotorhome.info/
>>>> Alternator Protection Cable
>>>> http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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| Re: [GMCnet] More freshwater plumbing help needed [message #305705 is a reply to message #305701] |
Sun, 21 August 2016 12:12 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
|
Senior Member |
|
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After using our Royale for a couple of years and going through the
winterizing process, I kinda developed a system that works for us here in
Oregon. Winters are not USUALLY severe, but we do see freezing temps for a
couple of weeks in a row. Rarely below 20 degrees F. Our Royale has a 6
gallon propane hot water heater, and a 38 gallon Potable water tank. Both
have separate drains and they are on opposite sides of the coach. We have a
city water inlet fitting that does not fill the Potable tank, but closes a
check valve and does fill the water heater when hooked up. The check valve
has failed due to freeze damage twice. It is exposed more than other stuff
is. What is unique to our situation is that our potable water supply is
from a well and is not treated with chlorine, so it can not stand in the
potable tank for long periods without being drained and sanitized. My
winterizing now consists of opening the drains on the water heater and the
potable tank, and blowing out the rest of the water lines. I never mess
with the drains and traps. But, I have heat on in the coach all winter, and
I open all the cabinet doors and drawers as well as the bathroom door. This
would not be sufficient in the hard freeze areas of the country and Canada,
but it works for us here. My coach is parked on a pad with a carport
structure over it. Just what works here. We use our coach year round, as
the Cascaders have a Christmas Rally as well as Valentines. I do not trust
the plumbing in any RV to withstand city water pressures for any length of
time over a few minutes duration. I have a reducer/gage/filter that screws
onto city water connections, and I have seen over 100 psi in some RV parks.
You do as you wish, but I have better things to do at a rally than chase
high pressure water leaks in a coach.
Jim Hupy
Salem, OR
78 GMC Royale 403
On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 9:28 AM, Emery Stora wrote:
> Since I pump a gallon of water line antifreeze through my lines and
> faucets I have never used the drains for the lines in the 35 years I have
> owned the GMC.
>
> Emery Stora
>
>> On Aug 21, 2016, at 9:43 AM, Burt and Faye curtis curtisunlimitedbandf@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Emery,
>>
>> Found what you mentioned. And after looking at my coach, one of the line
>> drains can be accessed through that hole. However, the offending one
> isn't
>> even close and is running much lower.
>> I am thinking of seeing if I can move it up, maybe even high enough so it
>> can be accessed through the larger hole behind the top drawer,
>> Another unanticipated benefit of this project is I get to fix the
>> connection to the oven light. I thought it had stopped working because
> the
>> bulb had burnt out but not so. The connectors had corrosion and went I
>> pulled them apart to remove the oven, one terminal actually pulled off
> the
>> wire totally.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 8:27 AM, Emery Stora wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Fay
>>> If you look at the owners manual ( not the maintenance manual) it tells
>>> one to take out a drawer to reach back and open the valves to drain the
>>> lines to winterize the coach.
>>>
>>> Emery Stora
>>>
>>>> On Aug 21, 2016, at 9:22 AM, Burt and Faye curtis >> curtisunlimitedbandf@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Yes. I think it was the hot water line that had been chewed (the 3/8"
>>>> line). and the drain was connected to a small line that runs outside.
>>> That
>>>> line is about the diameter of the air lines and is grey. It is also
>>> almost
>>>> right behind the kitchen drawers. Hence why I think it was suppose to
> be
>>>> able to be accessed thru the back of the top drawer.
>>>> Will take photos and post them later today.
>>>> In section 24J-2 of the maintenance manual, they show these drain cocks
>>>> behind the sink.
>>>>
>>>> Fay Curtis
>>>> '76 Glenbrook
>>>> Kneeland, CA
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> > On Sun, Aug 21, 2016 at 3:20 AM, gene Fisher
>>> wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> > Did it look different than this?
>>>> > And my other slides ?
>>>> > http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/fresh-water-leak-from-
>>>> > city-water-connection/p26803-slide61.html
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> >> On Saturday, August 20, 2016, Jack Christensen
>>> wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Hi Faye,
>>>> >> I had a similar problem in my Glenbrook, which is what I recall you
>>> have.
>>>> >> Clasco redid my coach and did replace some of the plumbing so I'm not
>>>> > sure
>>>> >> mine matches with yours. I removed the stove as others have
> suggested,
>>>> >> but the leak was behind the drawers and even after removing the
> stove I
>>>> >> couldn't access it. I ended up cutting a hole in the back of the
>>> drawer
>>>> >> carcase with a sabre saw to access the leak. There was a fitting that
>>> had
>>>> >> failed. Fortunately the local hardware store had a suitable
>>> replacement.
>>>> >> Cutting a hole in the back of the case isn't visible under normal
>>>> >> circumstances (you have to remove drawers to see it) and it hasn't
>>> caused
>>>> >> any other problems. I didn't bother to seal up the hole.
>>>> >> --
>>>> >> Jack Christensen - K6ROW,
>>>> >> '76 Glenbrook/Clasco - "The Silver Bullet",
>>>> >> Sebastopol, CA
>>>> >>
>>>> >> _______________________________________________
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>>>> >
>>>> >
>>>> > --
>>>> > Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
>>>> > “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
>>>> > -------
>>>> > http://gmcmotorhome.info/
>>>> > Alternator Protection Cable
>>>> > http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
>>>> > _______________________________________________
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