| Floors bowing up along centerline [message #301852] |
Wed, 08 June 2016 13:00  |
Bigduke6
Messages: 9
Registered: June 2016
Location: Corpus Christi tx
Karma: 0
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First off I'd like to thank the brain trust that this forum represents. This is my first post but I already have gained An incredible amount of knowledge by reading and searching here. I have a 74 Glacier. Noticed the floors creaked when walking, so took a look underneath when I had to pull the tanks due to internal rust. It has full length isolator pads on the frame rails still in amazingly good shape and pads at each cross member of the ladder frame. The floor bows up in the center so it is 3/8 to 1/2" above the pads in the center, with the worst one being the one forward of the door. My first thought is to pull the floor down with carriage bolts through a fender washer/ the floor/ the existing pad/ the crossmember/ another rubber pad/ another fender washer. I'm thinking 3 or 4 at each crossmember and pull down evenly. I think the second pad under crossmember will isolate well enough and the fender washers should spread the load on the floor. As a secondary measure if needed I am thinking of bolting a set of rails and brackets to the outside of the frame rails to support the aluminum closer to where the load from the sidewall comes down. I would use the existing frame crossmember bolt holes as anchor points.Don't want to do this and don't think it necessary. Just trying to anticipate any point load/ fatigue problems. Anybody have experience with this or another approach/ improvement?
Brian Black
1974 Glacier, mostly stock
Corpus Christi tx
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floors bowing up along centerline [message #301894 is a reply to message #301891] |
Thu, 09 June 2016 08:11  |
Russell Mehlenbacher
Messages: 128
Registered: June 2010
Karma: 1
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My '74 has bowed floor beams. We didn't really notice until we took out the
furniture and the two layers of carpet. I did use some strategic bolts to
pull down the bow in the dinette area. I've entertained all sort of bizarre
ideas as well. Unfortunately, I haven't much more to offer as we
subsequently bought a '76 which has a slightly different floor structure.
I had started to think that this would turn into "one thing leads to
another" and we would soon find our self with a stripped body shell and
jacks going every which way. And during reassembly nothing else would fit.
The only real concern I have for it now, is that I have to lay the new
floor fore to aft. Which I was going to do anyway.
Good Luck!
Russ
S.E. Michigan
'74 Sequoia
'76 Eleganza
On Thu, Jun 9, 2016 at 7:50 AM, Kingsley Coach
wrote:
> Geeze, first posting and not a reply !
> You must be very impressed.
>
> I have no experience and don't know what to suggest...sorry.
>
> Mike in NS
>
> On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 3:00 PM, Brian Black
> wrote:
>
>> First off I'd like to thank the brain trust that this forum represents.
>> This is my first post but I already have gained An incredible amount of
>> knowledge by reading and searching here. I have a 74 Glacier. Noticed the
>> floors creaked when walking, so took a look underneath when I had to pull
>> the tanks due to internal rust. It has full length isolator pads on the
>> frame rails still in amazingly good shape and pads at each cross member
> of
>> the
>> ladder frame. The floor bows up in the center so it is 3/8 to 1/2" above
>> the pads in the center, with the worst one being the one forward of the
>> door.
>> My first thought is to pull the floor down with carriage bolts through a
>> fender washer/ the floor/ the existing pad/ the crossmember/ another
> rubber
>> pad/ another fender washer. I'm thinking 3 or 4 at each crossmember and
>> pull down evenly. I think the second pad under crossmember will isolate
> well
>> enough and the fender washers should spread the load on the floor. As a
>> secondary measure if needed I am thinking of bolting a set of rails and
>> brackets to the outside of the frame rails to support the aluminum closer
>> to where the load from the sidewall comes down. I would use the existing
>> frame crossmember bolt holes as anchor points.Don't want to do this and
>> don't think it necessary. Just trying to anticipate any point load/
> fatigue
>> problems. Anybody have experience with this or another approach/
>> improvement?
>> --
>> Brian Black
>> 1974 Glacier, mostly stock
>> Corpus Christi tx
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Michael Beaton
> 1977 Kingsley 26-11
> 1977 Eleganza II 26-3
> Antigonish, NS
>
> Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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--
Russell Mehlenbacher
Rochester Hills, MI
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Russ & Linda Mehlenbacher
Rochester Hills, Michigan
'76 Eleganza
'74 Sequoia
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| Re: Floors bowing up along centerline [message #301902 is a reply to message #301852] |
Thu, 09 June 2016 10:04 |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Unless you are having a specific structural problem I would ignore it. I suspect most 73's & 74's have this. Mine does.
You are wise to recognize the "one thing leads to another" possibility.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floors bowing up along centerline [message #301903 is a reply to message #301852] |
Thu, 09 June 2016 10:01 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Depending on the condition of your headliner (not brand new delicate
material) you could wrap a 4x4 post with carpet and place it
perpendicular on top of another vertical 4x4 down to a bottle jack on the
floor over a crossmember. With the headliner part of the tee floating
across multiple ceiling braces ( front to back) and the Jack centered over
a single brace and any of the pads under the floor joist with the crown in
it below the Jack removed you can Jack the bow out of the floor joist. You
will need to push it past straight a little to allow for spring back. Have
someone watch the ceiling from a good vantage point while you watch the
floor for the first attempt to make sure the floor is going down and the
ceiling not going up. If the ceiling goes up then your ceiling beam either
needs to be made longer or stiffer or both.
Sully
77 Royale
Seattle
On Wednesday, June 8, 2016, Brian Black
wrote:
> First off I'd like to thank the brain trust that this forum represents.
> This is my first post but I already have gained An incredible amount of
> knowledge by reading and searching here. I have a 74 Glacier. Noticed the
> floors creaked when walking, so took a look underneath when I had to pull
> the tanks due to internal rust. It has full length isolator pads on the
> frame rails still in amazingly good shape and pads at each cross member of
> the
> ladder frame. The floor bows up in the center so it is 3/8 to 1/2" above
> the pads in the center, with the worst one being the one forward of the
> door.
> My first thought is to pull the floor down with carriage bolts through a
> fender washer/ the floor/ the existing pad/ the crossmember/ another rubber
> pad/ another fender washer. I'm thinking 3 or 4 at each crossmember and
> pull down evenly. I think the second pad under crossmember will isolate well
> enough and the fender washers should spread the load on the floor. As a
> secondary measure if needed I am thinking of bolting a set of rails and
> brackets to the outside of the frame rails to support the aluminum closer
> to where the load from the sidewall comes down. I would use the existing
> frame crossmember bolt holes as anchor points.Don't want to do this and
> don't think it necessary. Just trying to anticipate any point load/ fatigue
> problems. Anybody have experience with this or another approach/
> improvement?
> --
> Brian Black
> 1974 Glacier, mostly stock
> Corpus Christi tx
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: Floors bowing up along centerline [message #301907 is a reply to message #301852] |
Thu, 09 June 2016 11:38 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Lots have found that after 40 years, the pads are just squished? Even if they look good, I have also read and heard that replacing the full length pads with the separate body pads, helps with how it drives and rides?
call Jim Bounds and get a set of pads, then go from there. (they are like $70 to the door).
with that done, I would either ignore the problem of the floor bowing, or lay some weights on the floor when it sits, or possibly get a c-channel or other aluminum(preferred so it does not rust), or steel bracing across you can screw it down to, but I would not add any other bolts or securement from the body to the frame then what is already there along the rails. I would believe there is a function of flex and movement of the frame and body that should not be messed with.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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