Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Installing a new refrigerator
| Installing a new refrigerator [message #300359] |
Mon, 09 May 2016 17:35  |
gibsongo
Messages: 116
Registered: October 2012
Location: Montreal West, Quebec, Ca...
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Hello to all,
Largely dictated by pocketbook issues, the plan for my coach has always been to get it bulletproof from a mechanical perspective, and then worry about the interior at a later date when I have lived with the vehicle for a while. But one interior issue - the fridge - will need addressing sooner than later. The fridge in the coach is a 2-way 110 / 12 volt unit, which is useless for me since we do a lot of dry camping. The plan is to replace it with a 2-way 110v / propane unit - or a 3-way 110v / 12v / propane one. I'll probably stick with something the same size as the existing one - 5 cubic feet or so. With the kids grown and not very interested in accompanying us into the woods, this should be plenty big enough.
My question relates to the modifications to the body and roof that might be required. First, I gather that I will have to install a larger vent in the roof because operating with propane generates more heat than in 120v or 12v modes. Can anyone confirm this? Any suggestions of what to buy in terms of a roof vent and where to find it?
Second, my Class C had an access panel on the outside wall to allow the back of the fridge to be serviced without having to remove the whole unit. No such access panel on my GMC. Same basic questions here - presuming that this is necessary, what should I use as an access panel and where can find it?
I imagine lots of people have gone this route, and any warnings or bits of advice would be greatly appreciated. I must admit that the notion of cutting a hole in the drivers' side wall and enlarging the vent hole in the ceiling is fairly intimidating.
Thanks in advance for any/all feedback and help. Oh....if anyone knows of great deals on fridges in Eastern Canada or the north eastern US, do let me know...
Regards
Gordon Gibson
23' Norris Upfit
Now boasting a new Stuckey frame, quad bag rear suspension and Dave Lenzi upper control arms, knuckle.
Gordon Gibson
1976 23" Norris Upfit
Montreal West, Quebec, Canada
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| Re: Installing a new refrigerator [message #300363 is a reply to message #300359] |
Mon, 09 May 2016 17:56  |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Jim K. (Applied GMC) has the appropriate vents for the roof and side. They are a standard thing available in some RV stores. The actual size required will be in the installation instructions or ask Jim K. I do not think think they are any larger for a propane refrigerator than electric. The amount of heat required / generated on 120 volt or propane is the same on an absorption type refrigerator.
I had a Norco0ld that quit after 30 years and replaced it with a Dometic. They fit the same hole. Look at Dometics and see what physical sizes they offer. I believe mine is a 2550 or 2505 but my memory may be incorrect on the Model number.
Do not bother with 12 volt operation as the current required at 12 volt is a lot and it will run for pennies on propane.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Installing a new refrigerator [message #300364 is a reply to message #300359] |
Mon, 09 May 2016 17:49 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Gorden,
We can supply you a Norcold unit, just get me your current opening and w
can quote you delivered price.
We supply lot of them so we should be able to quote attractive prices on
the vents also.
On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 3:35 PM, Gordon Gibson
wrote:
> Hello to all,
>
> Largely dictated by pocketbook issues, the plan for my coach has always
> been to get it bulletproof from a mechanical perspective, and then worry
> about
> the interior at a later date when I have lived with the vehicle for a
> while. But one interior issue - the fridge - will need addressing sooner
> than
> later. The fridge in the coach is a 2-way 110 / 12 volt unit, which is
> useless for me since we do a lot of dry camping. The plan is to replace it
> with
> a 2-way 110v / propane unit - or a 3-way 110v / 12v / propane one. I'll
> probably stick with something the same size as the existing one - 5 cubic
> feet
> or so. With the kids grown and not very interested in accompanying us into
> the woods, this should be plenty big enough.
>
> My question relates to the modifications to the body and roof that might
> be required. First, I gather that I will have to install a larger vent in
> the
> roof because operating with propane generates more heat than in 120v or
> 12v modes. Can anyone confirm this? Any suggestions of what to buy in terms
> of
> a roof vent and where to find it?
>
> Second, my Class C had an access panel on the outside wall to allow the
> back of the fridge to be serviced without having to remove the whole unit.
> No
> such access panel on my GMC. Same basic questions here - presuming that
> this is necessary, what should I use as an access panel and where can find
> it?
>
>
> I imagine lots of people have gone this route, and any warnings or bits of
> advice would be greatly appreciated. I must admit that the notion of
> cutting a hole in the drivers' side wall and enlarging the vent hole in
> the ceiling is fairly intimidating.
>
> Thanks in advance for any/all feedback and help. Oh....if anyone knows
> of great deals on fridges in Eastern Canada or the north eastern US, do let
> me know...
>
> Regards
>
> Gordon Gibson
> 23' Norris Upfit
> Now boasting a new Stuckey frame, quad bag rear suspension and Dave Lenzi
> upper control arms, knuckle.
> --
> 1976 23" Norris Upfit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: Installing a new refrigerator [message #300370 is a reply to message #300359] |
Mon, 09 May 2016 18:48 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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The option is a pair of computer fans in a little vent. Sirum put a Norcold in my 23' Norris upfit and the vent is on ther side near the roof gutter. He added a panel just above the beltline with louvers. I got a monoxide alarm when I ran it on propane, so I put two 12V computer fans in the vent. Works much better, no alarms, and it gets colder on electric as well as gas. Someplace I've a photo of the passenger side which shows the panel and the small vent. If/when I find it I'll share.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
[Updated on: Mon, 09 May 2016 18:49] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Installing a new refrigerator [message #300380 is a reply to message #300359] |
Mon, 09 May 2016 19:37 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Gordon,
At http://www.bdub.net/manuals/ you'll find several Norcold and Dometic
refrigerator manuals. Check the installation instructions in those and
comply with the requirements as closely as feasible.
What you'll generally find is that both lower and upper vents are required
to ensure that there's adequate air flow for combustion and for refrigerant
condensation. One ESSENTIAL requirement (which may be impossible to meet
to Norcold's warranty satisfaction) is for venting BELOW the bottom of the
refrigerator. Because LPG is heavier than air, it's essential that it vent
by gravity, which is not necessarily easy to achieve.
You DO want to seal the face of the refrigerator to the cabinetry well
enough to ensure that leaking LPG does not get inside the coach. In my
case, the refrigerator sets on top of the wheel well, below the beltline,
above which is the lower vent (commercial access panel). I had to install
screened vents in the bottom of that compartment so LPG leakage can drain
into the wheel well.
Ken H.
On Mon, May 9, 2016 at 6:35 PM, Gordon Gibson
wrote:
...
My question relates to the modifications to the body and roof that might
be required. First, I gather that I will have to install a larger vent in
the
> roof because operating with propane generates more heat than in 120v or
> 12v modes. Can anyone confirm this? Any suggestions of what to buy in terms
> of
> a roof vent and where to find it?
>
> Second, my Class C had an access panel on the outside wall to allow the
> back of the fridge to be serviced without having to remove the whole unit.
> No
> such access panel on my GMC. Same basic questions here - presuming that
> this is necessary, what should I use as an access panel and where can find
> it?
> ...
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GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: Installing a new refrigerator [message #300383 is a reply to message #300359] |
Mon, 09 May 2016 20:33 |
gibsongo
Messages: 116
Registered: October 2012
Location: Montreal West, Quebec, Ca...
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Thanks guys,
I guess what is confusing me about the relative amount of heat thrown off is that with the current all-electric fridge, there is no ventilation whatsoever at the back and only a tiny 3" circular vent at the top - like a sewage vent. I am probably going to want to bigger than the Norcold o Dometic specs on the roof (supplemented by some computer fans) because I may well want to stick a tankless water heater in behind the fridge as someone posting to this forum has already done.
Found the vents on the Applied site - thanks.
Gordon
Gordon Gibson
1976 23" Norris Upfit
Montreal West, Quebec, Canada
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| Re: Installing a new refrigerator [message #300385 is a reply to message #300372] |
Mon, 09 May 2016 20:39 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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Sounds like it is mostly covered in previous posts. To elaborate on Johnny's suggestion of the computer fans, hook them up to a small solar panel on your roof. That way you are not using up precious battery power when dry camping and they are running when you need them most. I have mine wired to a switch so I can turn them off and not wear them out when the fridge is off.
Also, I saw on Jim Bounds' site where they cut down the plastic side vent/access panel by sectioning a part out of the middle then using epoxy to glue it back together. That way you don't need to cut into a body rib to make it fit.
I've had a Norcold since 2011 and it works great. We love it. I do run it on 12 volt while we are underway, but could easily leave the propane on and run it on gas while driving.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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