| [GMCnet] Converter charger [message #296703] |
Fri, 04 March 2016 11:35  |
glwgmc
Messages: 1014
Registered: June 2004
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I have found the safest and easiest way is to mount the inverter as close to the battery bank as you can and run 120vac three wire extension cords and/or power strips to where you want 120vac. 12vdc circuits draw ten times the amps as 120vac circuits powering the same wattage and 12vdc circuits also suffer voltage drop with distance so it is much better to make the longer runs on the AC side. Use the stock house 12vdc circuits for lights. Ditch the existing two heavy dc wires if you cannot clearly see where they are run or why. Don't try to run your microwave from such a small inverter, never try to run your roof air from any inverter, and never try to power any resistance heating appliance (heater, coffee maker, toaster, crock pot, cook top, hair dryer, etc.) from the inverter unless you really know what you are doing. You can download a presentation on proper installation of inverters, converters, larger battery banks and battery monitors from my web site or from several of the GMC club web sites that may be helpful.
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed & hand crafted
in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building
in historic Kerby, OR
http://jerrywork.com
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 03 Mar 2016 18:46:14 -0700
From: jerry
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Converter Charger
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Thanks for all of your kind replies.
I am trying to power the interior by using a 12v battery attached to a 1200 watt inverter for the situation when there is no shore AC power. I have
given up on the Onan which I find too noisy even if I could get it running.
Another point: there are two heavy gauge (thickness of a battery cable) cables lying loose under the seat of the dinette behind the driver's seat.
Each with a copper end with a large hole. They are live when there is a 12v battery under the hood. One positive, one negative. Any idea what they
are for or how they should be connected? Also I get no power to the control panel or monitor in the hallway. Yes, I am in Venice, CA. Sunny and
warm ;) :d
........
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Jerry & Sharon Work
78 Royale
Kerby, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] Converter charger [message #296705 is a reply to message #296703] |
Fri, 04 March 2016 12:22  |
A Hamilto
Messages: 4508
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 39
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Senior Member |
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glwgmc wrote on Fri, 04 March 2016 11:35...never try to run your roof air from any inverter, and never try to power any resistance heating appliance (heater, coffee maker, toaster, crock pot, cook top, hair dryer, etc.) from the inverter unless you really know what you are doing. ... I have seen lots of UPS units big enough to power any/all if the loads above. And a UPS is just a battery charger in front of a battery bank in front of an inverter.
What you want to convey is that any inverter big enough to handle loads like that would be excessively heavy (weight wise) for use in a GMC, and the associated battery bank would add even more excessive weight to the equation.
TECHNICALLY, it is possible to run whatever you want off batteries and inverters. PRACTICALLY, there are severe limits on what can work in a small RV.
That is ignoring the differences between square wave, modified wave, and full sine wave inverters. Heating appliances run fine off any shaped wave. Sensitive electronics need full wave. Motors generally do ok with modified wave. Generally. Not always.
And remember that the bigger the inverter, the greater the loss, especially under no load.
Best to use the right type and size inverter for each individual appliance, and remove power from it when the appliance is not in use. A single large inverter to run everything running all the time is going to run down your batteries a lot faster than a bunch of small ones that are only powered when demand requires and will squeeze more time out of a given battery charge.
For example, a 100W modified sine wave inverter will power the OEM dual voltage fridge on the 120V plug more efficiently than the 12V circuit on the fridge. And you want a quality full wave inverter to run the TV. And since you can power down the inverter on the TV when not watching TV, you cut your low/no load loss in half, compared to a single inverter that would run both.
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