Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Buffing Imron
| [GMCnet] Buffing Imron [message #295659] |
Wed, 17 February 2016 13:39  |
TnS.GMC
Messages: 18
Registered: November 2015
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So before I make any rash decisions on top paint I should buff out what I
actually have left. Then make the call on repaint/seal/floor wax/desert
topping,
Any suggestions on compounds or techniques that work well on a 40 years
worth of oxidation? It has spent most of it's life indoors and isn't
terrible.
--
Todd and Susan
'76 23' Birchaven
Alleged Mystery Machine
Melbourne, FL
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| Re: [GMCnet] Buffing Imron [message #295660 is a reply to message #295659] |
Wed, 17 February 2016 14:00  |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
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Do you own an adjustable speed fixed orbit polisher?
If not you might want to try a chemical oxidation remover such as color
back finish restorer made by turtle wax. I have had great success with this
product a couple of decades ago on oxidized single stage finishes. If it
has not been reformulated for the worse (environmental rules) it might be
the easiest and cheapest method.
Sully
77 royale
Seattle
On Wednesday, February 17, 2016, TnS.GMC
wrote:
> So before I make any rash decisions on top paint I should buff out what I
> actually have left. Then make the call on repaint/seal/floor wax/desert
> topping,
>
> Any suggestions on compounds or techniques that work well on a 40 years
> worth of oxidation? It has spent most of it's life indoors and isn't
> terrible.
>
> --
> Todd and Susan
> '76 23' Birchaven
> Alleged Mystery Machine
> Melbourne, FL
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________
> Message sent using UebiMiau 2.7.9
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Buffing Imron [message #295661 is a reply to message #295660] |
Wed, 17 February 2016 15:37 |
Bob S.
Messages: 143
Registered: October 2012
Location: Rapid City, SD
Karma: 2
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This may sound odd, but I learned it from an old body and paint man about 15 years ago. Take a bottle of ATF (tranny fluid) rub it on and wipe it off. It takes very little effort and produces amazing results. My coach had been kept outside in New Mexico sun for it first 30 years. The paint was badly faded and oxidized. I did about a quarter of the motorhome in about an hour and it looked very nice. After I rubbed it down I went over it with a mild degreaser and got off any ATF residue. Then I used my orbital polisher to apply some Mcguires
polish. I won't say that it shined like a new paint job but it looks great and its been two years since I did it. Last summer I didn't get a chance to polish it again and as I said it still looks nice. If I knew how to post pictures I would show you some before and after. Give it a try, ATF is far cheaper than paint. Good Luck.
Bob and Pam Schilling
Rapid City, SD
"78 Royale
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| Re: [GMCnet] Buffing Imron [message #295662 is a reply to message #295659] |
Wed, 17 February 2016 16:16 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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My Imron was all chalky. I figured I would need some fairly agressive compund with lots of clogging of the lambswool pad. Nope. Just used McGuires cleaner wax and my Milwaukee right angle pollisher. Pad did not clog up. One step sure beats compound then polish. Zaino all-in-one cleaner polish works well too. The trick is to wash the vehicle well with a truck wash brush and good car wash first. That gets all the loose stuff off and the pad won't gum up. Mine has looked good fror years after this.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Buffing Imron [message #295664 is a reply to message #295662] |
Wed, 17 February 2016 19:00 |
mercdave
Messages: 45
Registered: May 2014
Karma: 2
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I have not tried buffing my GMC yet (will happen this summer) but several years ago I purchased a 1982 Mercedes 300CD that had been sitting behind a garage in Spokane Wa for over 7 years. I was able to get some excellent results using Maguire's 105 cutting compound on an orange foam cutting pad and then following up with Maguire's 205 polish on a black foam polishing pad. I have an old Makita variable speed grinder polisher that did most of the work. I had to stop and wash the pad out several times since the oxidation really heavy but the foam pads rinsed in water and would spin dry in seconds on the Makita.
DaveL
Lynnwood, Wa.
1973 23' former Painted Desert
1982 Mercedes 300 CD (daily driver)
1995 Mercedes E300D
1973 VW Super Rusty Super Beetle
Van, Boats, Outboards etc, etc.
----- Original Message -----
> My Imron was all chalky. I figured I would need some fairly agressive compund
> with lots of clogging of the lambswool pad. Nope. Just used McGuires
> cleaner wax and my Milwaukee right angle pollisher. Pad did not clog up. One
> step sure beats compound then polish. Zaino all-in-one cleaner polish
> works well too. The trick is to wash the vehicle well with a truck wash brush
> and good car wash first. That gets all the loose stuff off and the pad
> won't gum up. Mine has looked good fror years after this.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> Source America First
>
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Dave L
Lynnwood, Wa.
1976 GMC 26' Edgemonte Rear Twin
1973 GMC 23' Rear-Ended, Totaled
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| Re: [GMCnet] Buffing Imron [message #295679 is a reply to message #295676] |
Thu, 18 February 2016 04:23 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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Steve Ferguson's write up on using Zeb Wet Look Floor Finish
Restoring the finish of an older RV using ZWLFF: Materials: -Zep Wet Look
Floor finish (Step 3) (available at Home Depot) -Bar Keeper’s Friend
(powdered) -TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered) -3M scrubbies (white, fine)
-Microfiber rags (white or laundered) -Latex gloves Preparing the surface
is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be
sealed under the ZWLFF acrylic coating, and improper prep can result in
peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The prep-work is the most important part!
Do not try to cut corners here. The cleaner your RV is, the better your
final results will be. Step 1: Start by washing your RV well as you
normally would, making sure to include the roof, and rinsing well from the
top down. Step 2: You now want to remove any and all stains, soiling,
oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into
water and then liberally sprinkle Bar Keeper’s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub
the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF
often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as
you go (Rinsing well is important to remove all BKF residue. I used a
"flow-thru" brush attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).
Step 3: Next you want to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining
wax on the RV, since any residual wax can cause the ZWLFF to peel and
flake. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to
wash the entire RV again. You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a
pressure washer…anything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well
as you go, then rinse again and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well
is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a
clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard part
is done! Step 4: Now comes the easy part. Shake the ZWLFF well, and pour
some into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag
to about hand-sized, dip it into the ZWLFF (trust me, use gloves!), and
squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but
less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet
microfiber rag. Don’t try to apply a heavy coat or try to “rub it in”; just
wet the surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It
really doesn’t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in
circles, and don’t worry about overlaps; ZWLFF is very thin/watery and you
are just trying to “moisten” the surface. Work your way all the way around
the RV. The thin coat of ZWLFF will dry very quickly; long before you’ve
gone all the way around it will be dry and you can immediately start on the
next coat. That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy,
shiny in some places, dull in others…don’t panic. Each additional coat will
start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you
will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on the
cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasn’t shined in years, it will
be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have a new lease
on life! All for less than $30 total! *Note: This procedure will slightly
change/darken the color/shade of your RV. Things (I learned) to keep in
mind: -Don’t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been
laundered, as the color may bleed. -Don’t try to “over-apply”, or try for a
heavy coat, or you will get runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, you’re
just trying to “moisten” the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If
you are getting a lot of runs, you’re applying it too heavily. -Be careful
around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the ZWLFF is very watery and
will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. ZWLFF dries fast, so keep an
eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to “set
up”. -Some older, deteriorated graphics may “bleed” color onto the rag and
surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage
(steps 2 and 3), then give a quick wipe of ZWLFF across the graphics prior
to step 4, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the ZWLFF to
the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as per step 4 of the
tutorial.
On Wed, Feb 17, 2016 at 11:07 PM, Bob Dunahugh wrote:
> The 78 Royale ( the mouse house ) sat outside, but was used, and cleaned
> from 78 to 1990. Sold to my PO in 1990. Used till 1995. Then sat outside
> between a cornfield, and a machine shed out on the plains of Iowa. With
> absolutely no use, or care. So to get the big chunks off. I power washed
> every square inch. Scrubbed it down with a sponge, and a rich mixture of
> Mr Clean, and warm water. It dried to a very nice shine. I then removed
> the 2 layers of Royale striping in just under 2 hours. I could see were
> the stripes were due to a very light oxidation everywhere else. Then
> used Maguires #2 cleaner. As it isn't at all very aggressive. Imron is
> extremely hard. And I would NEVER use an aggressive cleaner. At this time
> I only have buffed about 25% of the right side. It took about 30 min. And
> you CAN'T see where the stripe was. The paint looks absolutely new. I know
> the 77, and 78's all had Imron put on. If you're interested in more
> details. Call anytime. Cell 319-521-4891 CST.Bob Dunahugh78 Royale.
> _______________________________________________
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--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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| Re: [GMCnet] Buffing Imron [message #295687 is a reply to message #295659] |
Thu, 18 February 2016 10:25 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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When I first got my coach in July of '08, it had been sitting in an outside storage lot for several months while the POs were on an extended European vacation. The beautiful paint scheme wasn't looking as good as it had in the photos. Not being big on vehicle finish maintenance, (it is kind of a loosing battle here under the Arizona sun) I still wanted to shine up the motorhome to it's recent former glory.
I invested in a random orbit polisher, some foam pads, and various polishing compounds and wax from Griot's Garage. The results were very satisfactory and I try to keep up on the polishing on a regular basis by using Griot's One Step polish/sealer.
I had neglected the roof though, and found it to be pretty oxidized when I finally tackled it. I found that most of the oxidation cleaned up using Simple Green with a blue Scotch Brite sponge. A coat of the One Step shined it right up. It has been a while since I last did this and it is due again. I will use the same procedure.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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