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Re: [GMCnet] Setting the front ride height procedure [message #292851 is a reply to message #292850] Thu, 24 December 2015 06:22 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Mr ERFisher is currently offline  Mr ERFisher   United States
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Registered: August 2005
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On Thursday, December 24, 2015, Ken Burton wrote:

> I am going to disagree with Larry. I have adjusted the ride height on
> many coaches with my un-loader tool and we ALWAYS do it with the weight on
> the
> wheels. If you do it with the wheels hanging you have no input as to how
> much the coach has raised or lowered when you turn the adjustment tool
> screw. Doing it by dropping the wheels means you will have a very long
> procedure because you will have to drop the coach, drive it around, and then
> measure see what your adjustment results are over and over again for each
> correction. For each correction you will have to set it up again.
>
> The 6 turn per inch is just a guideline. As you start to turn one side
> the weight transfers to that side and the first few turns usually just twist
> the bar without raising the coach. So if you turn the screw on the light
> side of the coach you will get more than 1" for 6 turns and simultaneously
> will get some lift on the opposite side. If you are turning on the heavy
> side you will initially get no lift followed by less than 1" on the heavy
> side.
>
> So my recommendation is to LUBRICATE the screw on the adjustment tool
> liberally. I use anti-seize but oil will do. Then adjust the bars on both
> sides with the weight on the wheels. After adjusting the second side,
> recheck the first side, and change it as necessary. Go back and forth
> between
> the two sides until no change is required on either side. Then drive the
> coach for a few miles and recheck your measurements / adjustments.
>
> It is imperative that the REAR END be blocked in place at EXACTLY EQUAL
> height during the front height adjustment. We have found that a 1/4"
> difference in side to side height in the rear will transfer 125 pounds
> from side to side in the front (with a corresponding change in front ride
> height).
>
> One other comment on your procedure. You can also cut some blocks for the
> front height measurement to the bottom of the frame rather than tape
> measure to the top of the holes. I do not remember the dimension of the
> blocks at the moment and my measurement stuff is not at home for me to look
> at right now.
>
> I cut up a bunch of scrap lumber and handed out the pre-cut blocks at
> several of the GMCMI rallies. The blocks make adjustment much easier. I
> use
> 1x2's for the front blocks and 2x4's for the rear blocks so we do not get
> them confused while using them. Front and rear are different lengths.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
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--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
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