Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Where do I start? (A newbie's "to do" list)
| Where do I start? [message #292789] |
Wed, 23 December 2015 10:10  |
dig dig
Messages: 3
Registered: December 2014
Location: Stoughton, WI
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Last summer we bought a 1978 Royale center bath with a Cadillac 500 engine 60k on coach and 30k on engine. Overall it's in good shape, but does have a few problems: exhaust leaks exhaust pipe connects to exhaust manifold, occasional smell of raw gas, iffy alternator, a little bit of wobble in the front end and the air bags hold air but electro-level system isn't working.
I've been getting great advice from nearby GMCers (especially Steve Southworth, Ray Erspamer
and Larry Weidner
). I've also exchanged emails with the good folks at Applied GMC, Coop GMC, and the Cad Company. And I've been researching and reading everything I can get my hands on.
I've replaced the OEM wheels and ten year old tires with Alcoas and Michilens. I've bought (but haven't yet installed) a new set of KYB shocks.
Frankly, I'm overwhelmed ... not complaining, but definitely suffering from information overload. The plan is to get it ready for cross-country travel. We'll tackle the mechanical stuff first and worry about the cosmetic stuff later.
Here's my "to do" list of the moment ... along with questions when I haven't got a clue as to what to do:
1. Fix exhaust leak. Hopefully, it's just replacing gaskets or tightening bolts.
2. Fix raw gas smell. Haven't spotted any leaks. What should I check next (PCV)?
3. Upgrade alternator to 100 amp at idle and rewire with heavier gauge wire. Should I upgrade the starter solenoid as well (a friend suggested one for a early 90s Chevy G30)?
4. Change wheel bearings and front end bushings. While I've got it apart, what else should I replace? Is it worth upgrading to the one-ton front end?
5. Replace all hoses water, fuel, brakes and air. I know that stainless steel brake lines are nice, but do I really need brake lines that last longer than I do?
6. Replace master and wheel brake cylinders pads and shoes as needed. Which of the various brake upgrades should I do?
7. Replace wiring as needed and clean all contacts.
8. Replace OEM rocker arm assemblies with shaft-type rocker arms.
9. Repair Electro-Level control check lines and compressor. Is it worth it to switch to a four-bag system? If so ... which one?
10. Repair cruise control or replace with electronic system?
11. I don't plan to replace the carburetor with a fuel injection system, but I do wonder if it's worth changing to ram or cold-air induction and/or replacing the exhaust manifolds with headers and a free flowing exhaust system.
12. The original Cadillac ignition system is HEI. Should I upgrade to an electronic system or leave well enough alone?
Sorry the list is so long and I hope my mechanical shortcomings aren't too obvious. Please feel free to limit your answers to whatever interests you ... or for that matter add other items to the list.
Thank you
digdig
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| Re: Where do I start? [message #292792 is a reply to message #292789] |
Wed, 23 December 2015 10:52  |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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You'll ger varying opinions. Mine:
1. Fix exhaust leak. Hopefully, it's just replacing gaskets or tightening bolts.
Whatever it takes.. usually gaskets or shot mufflers. Jack it up, crib it so it can't come down, go looking.
2. Fix raw gas smell. Haven't spotted any leaks. What should I check next (PCV)?
All hoses, float valve, all vent lines, and the charcoal canisters. Something's loose or cracked. Or, the carb is leaking.
3. Upgrade alternator to 100 amp at idle and rewire with heavier gauge wire. Should I upgrade the starter solenoid as well (a friend suggested one for a early 90s Chevy G30)?
Isn't really necessary - and the single belt is marginal with a 100Amp unit. Proper tension is a must, as is the correct belt - particularly belt width.
4. Change wheel bearings and front end bushings. While I've got it apart, what else should I replace? Is it worth upgrading to the one-ton front end?
Opinions vary widely. I plan top put Lenzi rebuilds on mine when the current stuff wears out.
5. Replace all hoses water, fuel, brakes and air. I know that stainless steel brake lines are nice, but do I really need brake lines that last longer than I do?
PolyArmor will work just fine for brake lines. A new valve is a good idea as well.
6. Replace master and wheel brake cylinders pads and shoes as needed. Which of the various brake upgrades should I do?
The 'torque arm' mod which floats the rear backing plates makes a great difference in stopping.
7. Replace wiring as needed and clean all contacts.
Yes. Either now, or one at a time as they fail.
8. Replace OEM rocker arm assemblies with shaft-type rocker arms.
No opinion, don't have a Cad engine.
9. Repair Electro-Level control check lines and compressor. Is it worth it to switch to a four-bag system? If so ... which one?
Many opinions here. When I can't get stock bags, I'll go with Todd Sullivan's replacement setup.
10. Repair cruise control or replace with electronic system?
I use the stock one. The transducer was new by the PO, has worked flawlessly since I've had the coach. IF you want the fancies (resume, increase/decrease, etc. you will need to replace it.
11. I don't plan to replace the carburetor with a fuel injection system, but I do wonder if it's worth changing to ram or cold-air induction and/or replacing the exhaust manifolds with headers and a free flowing exhaust system.
Put headers on when the manifold(s) die. No great performance gain, but they last longer and they're readily available.
12. The original Cadillac ignition system is HEI. Should I upgrade to an electronic system or leave well enough alone?
HEI has proven itself over years. Cheap, simple, reliable (I have one on a hotrod Ford engine as well). Leave it be. You might regap the plugs down to maybe .030 or so if they have an overly wide gap, the modules tend to last longer.
Them's one fool's opinions. I haul large dogs to shows in mine, and make the occasional rally. Your uses may differ, so your actions may as well.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: Where do I start? [message #292793 is a reply to message #292789] |
Wed, 23 December 2015 11:05 |
Dan
Messages: 99
Registered: August 2014
Location: Allentown, NJ
Karma: 0
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Member |
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I am not one of the grizzled vets here I have probably driven my coach under 1000 miles, but I here is my 2 cents for what its worth.
There is enough things to do on a 30 year old moving house to keep anyone busy for a long time. I would recommend that you do what you need to do to get the coach moving safely so you can enjoy it. Then you will have plenty of time to worry about upgrades.
From your list I'd skip the alternator, the fuel injection, rocker arms and the ignition until you have the coach rolling safely. Replace anything rubber, fuel lines would be a top priority. You might not need all new brake lines. Mine were fine, just replaced the rubber lines with stainless steel. I installed 80mm brakes up front, it was really easy. Some of the other brake upgrades sound great, but from my reading of the forum would require above average mechanical problem solving to install.
New bearings up front are a good idea, ill leave it for others to argue about the 1 ton. I had grease zerks installed on my rebuilt originals.
Sound like you just need new exhaust "doughnuts" thats easy.
Like I said anything rubber, I had my power steering line blow out on my at a campsite. New body pads are an easy and worthwhile project.
New shocks all around are easy, and make a difference.
Thats all I can think about for now.
Dan
Dan DeLuca
1978 Eleganza II (http://imgur.com/gallery/YFHhK)
Parked at Evil Monkey Farm in
Allentown, New Jersey
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| Re: [GMCnet] Where do I start? [message #292795 is a reply to message #292789] |
Wed, 23 December 2015 11:08 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Dave,
My suggestion is to work on on thing at a time.
Exhaust leak is basic, so skip it for now, but you need to determine where
the leak is and I will help you solve it.
Leave the alternator alone for now till you work on the other unless it is
not functioning.
Give me a call as I can try to assist you on what needs to be addressed
first then to the next.
As far as I'm concerned, get the mechanicals under control then work on the
interior last.
On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 8:10 AM, dave london wrote:
> Last summer we bought a 1978 Royale center bath with a Cadillac 500
> engine 60k on coach and 30k on engine. Overall it's in good shape, but
> does have
> a few problems: exhaust leaks exhaust pipe connects to exhaust manifold,
> occasional smell of raw gas, iffy alternator, a little bit of wobble in the
> front end and the air bags hold air but electro-level system isn't working.
> I've been getting great advice from nearby GMCers (especially Steve
> Southworth, Ray Erspamer and Larry Weidner ). I've also exchanged emails
> with
> the good folks at Applied GMC, Coop GMC, and the Cad Company. And I've
> been researching and reading everything I can get my hands on.
> I've replaced the OEM wheels and ten year old tires with Alcoas and
> Michilens. I've bought (but haven't yet installed) a new set of KYB shocks.
> Frankly, I'm overwhelmed ... not complaining, but definitely suffering
> from information overload. The plan is to get it ready for cross-country
> travel. We'll tackle the mechanical stuff first and worry about the
> cosmetic stuff later.
> Here's my "to do" list of the moment ... along with questions when I
> haven't got a clue as to what to do:
> 1. Fix exhaust leak. Hopefully, it's just replacing gaskets or
> tightening bolts.
> 2. Fix raw gas smell. Haven't spotted any leaks. What should I check
> next (PCV)?
> 3. Upgrade alternator to 100 amp at idle and rewire with heavier
> gauge wire. Should I upgrade the starter solenoid as well (a friend
> suggested one for
> a early 90s Chevy G30)?
> 4. Change wheel bearings and front end bushings. While I've got it
> apart, what else should I replace? Is it worth upgrading to the one-ton
> front end?
> 5. Replace all hoses water, fuel, brakes and air. I know that
> stainless steel brake lines are nice, but do I really need brake lines that
> last longer
> than I do?
> 6. Replace master and wheel brake cylinders pads and shoes as
> needed. Which of the various brake upgrades should I do?
> 7. Replace wiring as needed and clean all contacts.
> 8. Replace OEM rocker arm assemblies with shaft-type rocker arms.
> 9. Repair Electro-Level control check lines and compressor. Is it
> worth it to switch to a four-bag system? If so ... which one?
> 10. Repair cruise control or replace with electronic system?
> 11. I don't plan to replace the carburetor with a fuel injection
> system, but I do wonder if it's worth changing to ram or cold-air induction
> and/or
> replacing the exhaust manifolds with headers and a free flowing exhaust
> system.
> 12. The original Cadillac ignition system is HEI. Should I upgrade to
> an electronic system or leave well enough alone?
>
> Sorry the list is so long and I hope my mechanical shortcomings aren't too
> obvious. Please feel free to limit your answers to whatever interests you
> ... or for that matter add other items to the list.
>
> Thank you
>
> digdig
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: [GMCnet] Where do I start? [message #292796 is a reply to message #292795] |
Wed, 23 December 2015 11:14 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Carry one known good spare airbag ant the tools to lift/support coach and
change out the bag. AAA RV plus tow insurance. Black list.
Sully
77 royale
Seattle
On Wednesday, December 23, 2015, Jim Kanomata wrote:
> Dave,
> My suggestion is to work on on thing at a time.
> Exhaust leak is basic, so skip it for now, but you need to determine where
> the leak is and I will help you solve it.
> Leave the alternator alone for now till you work on the other unless it is
> not functioning.
> Give me a call as I can try to assist you on what needs to be addressed
> first then to the next.
> As far as I'm concerned, get the mechanicals under control then work on the
> interior last.
>
> On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 8:10 AM, dave london > wrote:
>
>> Last summer we bought a 1978 Royale center bath with a Cadillac 500
>> engine 60k on coach and 30k on engine. Overall it's in good shape, but
>> does have
>> a few problems: exhaust leaks exhaust pipe connects to exhaust manifold,
>> occasional smell of raw gas, iffy alternator, a little bit of wobble in
> the
>> front end and the air bags hold air but electro-level system isn't
> working.
>> I've been getting great advice from nearby GMCers (especially Steve
>> Southworth, Ray Erspamer and Larry Weidner ). I've also exchanged emails
>> with
>> the good folks at Applied GMC, Coop GMC, and the Cad Company. And I've
>> been researching and reading everything I can get my hands on.
>> I've replaced the OEM wheels and ten year old tires with Alcoas and
>> Michilens. I've bought (but haven't yet installed) a new set of KYB
> shocks.
>> Frankly, I'm overwhelmed ... not complaining, but definitely suffering
>> from information overload. The plan is to get it ready for cross-country
>> travel. We'll tackle the mechanical stuff first and worry about the
>> cosmetic stuff later.
>> Here's my "to do" list of the moment ... along with questions when I
>> haven't got a clue as to what to do:
>> 1. Fix exhaust leak. Hopefully, it's just replacing gaskets or
>> tightening bolts.
>> 2. Fix raw gas smell. Haven't spotted any leaks. What should I check
>> next (PCV)?
>> 3. Upgrade alternator to 100 amp at idle and rewire with heavier
>> gauge wire. Should I upgrade the starter solenoid as well (a friend
>> suggested one for
>> a early 90s Chevy G30)?
>> 4. Change wheel bearings and front end bushings. While I've got it
>> apart, what else should I replace? Is it worth upgrading to the one-ton
>> front end?
>> 5. Replace all hoses water, fuel, brakes and air. I know that
>> stainless steel brake lines are nice, but do I really need brake lines
> that
>> last longer
>> than I do?
>> 6. Replace master and wheel brake cylinders pads and shoes as
>> needed. Which of the various brake upgrades should I do?
>> 7. Replace wiring as needed and clean all contacts.
>> 8. Replace OEM rocker arm assemblies with shaft-type rocker arms.
>> 9. Repair Electro-Level control check lines and compressor. Is it
>> worth it to switch to a four-bag system? If so ... which one?
>> 10. Repair cruise control or replace with electronic system?
>> 11. I don't plan to replace the carburetor with a fuel injection
>> system, but I do wonder if it's worth changing to ram or cold-air
> induction
>> and/or
>> replacing the exhaust manifolds with headers and a free flowing exhaust
>> system.
>> 12. The original Cadillac ignition system is HEI. Should I upgrade to
>> an electronic system or leave well enough alone?
>>
>> Sorry the list is so long and I hope my mechanical shortcomings aren't
> too
>> obvious. Please feel free to limit your answers to whatever interests you
>> ... or for that matter add other items to the list.
>>
>> Thank you
>>
>> digdig
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Jim Kanomata
> Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
> jimk@appliedairfilters.com
> http://www.appliedgmc.com
> 1-800-752-7502
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Where do I start? [message #292805 is a reply to message #292789] |
Wed, 23 December 2015 11:49 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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digdig,
With the advisers you've already found, I doubt I can add much to what
they've told you. But with a '76 X-Birchaven (little brother to the
Royale), equipped with a Cad 500 & EFI/EBL, I'll reinforce what I suspect
they've told you:
On Wed, Dec 23, 2015 at 11:10 AM, dave london wrote:
> Last summer we bought a 1978 Royale center bath with a Cadillac 500
> engine 60k on coach and 30k on engine. Overall it's in good shape, but
> does have
> a few problems: exhaust leaks exhaust pipe connects to exhaust manifold,
> occasional smell of raw gas, iffy alternator, a little bit of wobble in the
> front end and the air bags hold air but electro-level system isn't working.
> I've been getting great advice from nearby GMCers (especially Steve
> Southworth, Ray Erspamer and Larry Weidner ). I've also exchanged emails
> with
> the good folks at Applied GMC, Coop GMC, and the Cad Company. And I've
> been researching and reading everything I can get my hands on.
> I've replaced the OEM wheels and ten year old tires with Alcoas and
> Michilens. I've bought (but haven't yet installed) a new set of KYB shocks.
> Frankly, I'm overwhelmed ... not complaining, but definitely suffering
> from information overload. The plan is to get it ready for cross-country
> travel. We'll tackle the mechanical stuff first and worry about the
> cosmetic stuff later.
> Here's my "to do" list of the moment ... along with questions when I
> haven't got a clue as to what to do:
> 1. Fix exhaust leak. Hopefully, it's just replacing gaskets or
> tightening bolts.
>
A. Use Remflex 14-4001 gaskets
http://catalog.remflex.com/CADILLAC_Header_Exhaust_Manifold_Gasket_p/14-001.htm
Follow their instructions exactly but don't expect them to last forever. I
found one of mine, carefully installed 15K miles or so ago, leaking
yesterday.
For exhaust pipe "donuts", you'll have to find the one that fits your
specific manifold; I've found a couple of different ones; the current right
side manifold requires Fel-Pro 60718 (replaced yesterday). Fits 94
Astrovan among other 88-95+ GM vehicles.
> 2. Fix raw gas smell. Haven't spotted any leaks. What should I check
> next (PCV)?
>
A. Dependent on where the smell is strongest, look at:
(1) Hose connections to the charcoal canister beneath the floor under
the passenger seat.
(2) Hose connection in 1-1/4" (or so) gas filler tube beneath driver's
floor, right where frame "kicks up". And/Or the "burp hose" to the filler
neck.
(3) The fuel/vapor separator valve, in the top front of the left rear
wheel well, is prone to sticking, allowing raw fuel to flow to the
aforementioned charcoal canister, which should only receive vapor.
(4) All of the gas lines, especially the rubber hoses, are likely to
leak if not recently replaced with at least 30R7 barrier hose for ethanol
resistance. About all you can do is follow your nose -- or better yet,
replace them all, retaining rubber only for short connectors.
(5) You've already looked for leaks, but check especially carefully
around the carburetor and the mechanical fuel pump for signs of
"wash-down".
3. Upgrade alternator to 100 amp at idle and rewire with heavier gauge
> wire. Should I upgrade the starter solenoid as well (a friend suggested one
> for
> a early 90s Chevy G30)?
>
A. With the Cad, you may well already have a 100A alternator. In any
case, the heavier wire will be of marginal benefit -- remember that the
alternator will probably only rarely produce that much current -- even
near-dead batteries will not draw that for long. But bigger's usually
better.
A new starter solenoid may be in order, but generally repairing a "weak"
one is merely a matter of opening it up and turning the copper contact disk
over.
As for an "upgrade", I don't know why that would be needed -- these
starters are generally very adequate and trouble free.
> 4. Change wheel bearings and front end bushings. While I've got it
> apart, what else should I replace? Is it worth upgrading to the one-ton
> front end?
>
A. Checking the wheel bearings is definitely in order, 'though rocking
the wheel top-bottom is about all you can really do without pulling the
bearings -- any perceptible movement is cause for concern because the hubs
tend to wallow out to a egg shape, allowing the bearings' outer race to
rotate and fail. If you find that, the knuckl e will have to be rebuilt;
the hub may also. The cost of rebuilt hubs and knuckles can easily exceed
the cost of the 1-Ton, so there's no decision left in my mind: "Do It".
Even pulling, packing, and replacing the wheel bearings would be more than
I'd do -- the advantages of the 1-Ton more than justify the cost, IMHO.
5. Replace all hoses water, fuel, brakes and air. I know that
> stainless steel brake lines are nice, but do I really need brake lines that
> last longer
> than I do?
>
A. Definitely replace all those, Considering the salty climate you live
in, replace the brake lines for sure; SS would be my choice, even down here
where we don't need salt and at my advanced age.
6. Replace master and wheel brake cylinders pads and shoes as needed.
> Which of the various brake upgrades should I do?
>
With the 1-Ton, you'll gain new, larger front rotors, calipers, pads, &
hoses. For the rear, NOTHING makes sense to me but Manny Brakes. The
reaction arms make the rear brakes almost slide-proof, which the originals,
with the tendency to "pole vault" over the middle wheels, are very prone.
The cost of the complete system, including the reaction arms and all new
disc brakes is not a lot more than the cost of serious drum work, and less
than most other disc upgrade options.
I've been through good drum brakes, large middle/rear disc calipers, small
middle/rear disc calipers, only middle discs, and Manny Brakes. I might
change the small disc calipers I installed with one of the earliest Manny
Brakes for larger calipers, but that's the only change I'd consider. I DO
NOT use the parking brake calipers. I have a non-DOT approved pneumatic
system which pulls the brake pedal down and holds it there indefinitely
with 140 lbf pedal pressure. I've just become aware of newly available
park-only large calipers which I may consider to replace or augment the
rear calipers.
7. Replace wiring as needed and clean all contacts.
>
A. While working wiring, you may want to consider what I do (have done
for 15 years): Every time I identify a wire, I add a tag to it, using
Brother TZ label tape. I specifically recommend those labels because the
tape itself is almost indestructible, consisting of a good adhesive; a
strong substrate in many colors; thermally transferred lettering in at
least black, white, and red; and, a final covering of transparent tape.
All assembled automatically and invisibly in small machine. While there
are expensive versions of the label maker, I only use the $20 versions
which are frequently available.
CRC 2-26 contact cleaner is about the best there is on the market.
If you want to be able to read the wiring diagrams, order large, high
quality, ones from my son, Alan Henderson -- available up to 8' long! He's
listed under vendors at www.bdub.net
> 8. Replace OEM rocker arm assemblies with shaft-type rocker arms.
>
DEFINITELY! During my 2013 trip to the W. coast, I had one of the
T-pedestals break, fortunately near Applied GMC. After replacing that one,
the SAME thing happened again in Tupelo, MS, from where we were towed 384
miles home (plug for RV Roadhelp from Allstate -- Don't drive a GMC around
the block without road service -- I've used RV Roadhelp a number of times
over the past 16 years, always with no problem and have never heard the
first peep out of them after an event). Maybe JimK will chime in with how
many T-pedestals he broke before going to a shaft system. Those may have
been OK when new, but the ones I broke had been cracked for a long time.
9. Repair Electro-Level control check lines and compressor. Is it
> worth it to switch to a four-bag system? If so ... which one?
>
A.
With the demise of Leigh Harrison, I think the Quad Bag from Applied GMC
is the only 4-bag option available. There are a number of other
replacement bag options, but not 4-bag. Since I've had Harrison's 4-bag
for all but the first 1200 miles of my long ownership, I'm not really
qualified to judge whether to install them.
> 10. Repair cruise control or replace with electronic system?
>
IMHO, the GM Electromotor cruise control used on most '90's pickups is the
only thing that makes sense. It's cheap at most junkyards, reliable, and
has all the modern coast, resume, tap up, tap down, etc., features and
requires no vacuum. John Sharpe has a very complete slide presentation on
GMCMHPhotos.com with all the details you need. I did mine about the same
time he was doing his and handled switching a little differently: Instead
of modifying or replacing the control stalk, I use a $14 Chinese remote
control with the remote mounted on the flat spoke of my S-10 steering
wheel, right beneath my left thumb. Could hardly work better nor be easier
to implement.
> 11. I don't plan to replace the carburetor with a fuel injection
> system, but I do wonder if it's worth changing to ram or cold-air induction
> and/or
> replacing the exhaust manifolds with headers and a free flowing exhaust
> system.
>
A. I like my EFI/EBL, but it's not REALLY necessary -- as the all-in-one
systems improve/prove themselves, you may want to consider one of them.
Dick Paterson claims you can gain 10 hp with cold air induction. Whether
that's worth the trouble is debatable.
As for headers, I wish I had them, but the only ones I know of being
available are not mandrel bent. There are flanges available, with
instructions for modifying Chevy 454 headers to accept them. Not being a
welder, I haven't considered that option. I'm STILL hoping someone (Hint,
Hint) will have SS mandrel bent ones made and sell them for reasonable
price. I could probably name 10 buyers for those off the top of my head.
The 3" exhaust pipe, with rear-mounted single muffler, is a no-brainer.
12. The original Cadillac ignition system is HEI. Should I upgrade to
an electronic system or leave well enough alone?
A. Unless you go to a computer controlled system, like we have with
EFI/EBL, you'd probably be better off with a Dick Paterson built HEI
distributor.
>
> Sorry the list is so long and I hope my mechanical shortcomings aren't too
> obvious. Please feel free to limit your answers to whatever interests you
> ... or for that matter add other items to the list.
>
> Thank you
>
> digdig
>
> Welcome aboard, and Good Luck!
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL,
Manny Brakes & 1-Ton, etc., etc.
www.gmcwipersetc.com
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: Where do I start? [message #292806 is a reply to message #292789] |
Wed, 23 December 2015 12:23 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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Front end bushings are often replaced due to light visible heat checking unnecessarily. As long as the rubber is intact there is little immediate gain to replacing. All hard parts and steering stabilizer should be examined and replaced as needed. Also the steering needs to be on center and then aligned to the current specs os as much positive caster as you can get with zero camber and zero toe. "Wobble" is my main concern if all your postings. Don't get suckered into the upgrade spiral. GM would not have released these if everything was in need of upgrading.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Where do I start? [message #292855 is a reply to message #292813] |
Thu, 24 December 2015 08:53 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Dave,
Welcome to the group, family, cult, asylum.....
As you can tell, everybody here wants you to get the coach safe and then use it. This makes all of the rest of what you have to rewarding. We have all been there.
Do you have all the manuals?? If not, everything can be downloaded here http://www.bdub.net/GMCLinks.html. There is also a wealth of other stuff.
These are all people out for a good time that want you to be able to come along. Keep at it, replacing old rubber and flushing the brakes is a real good start. I see you joined the group in 2014, it is a shame that you didn't get to the rally in Chippewa Falls last year. If you had, you could already have a bunch of new old friends. You do have another good chance. Next fall's GMCMI rally will be in Mansfield OH. That is about 9 road hours and there is a great Cabela's in Hammond where you can overnight. There may be other local chapter rallies closer before that.
Fortunately, your first post contains all the important information for a forum reader. An e-mail reader might have missed some. This is a curious thing. The group started as a e-mail list and then the forum was added as a mirror to that. The e-mail side does not get the header or posted pictures, and if you edit a post, the edited version will not go out again as e-mail. The system works pretty. But please, for all of us, build a sigfile that has your real name (you can change the "handle" in Account Settings if you choose to), a short about the coach as there are differences with years and models that may matter and a geographic reference so a possible helper will know if he is in striking range.
Before I forget, there are a lot of "guests" that read the forum. Some of them are webbots looking for information. Never post a clear @ddress or phone nr. All it has to do is not fit the template to be safe. When you see something spelled that does not normally, that is why.
Finally, you (and yours?) are now a member of a community that is rare. Helping others is something we all like to do. Do not be afraid to ask for help or information. We find people that don't ask to be annoying. You will hear amazing stories of things that have happened in this community. Don't discount them, they are probably real. The only other community I know of like this is that of the watermen that are my world. This is why I like to welcome new owners much as a new vessel or owner is welcomed there. So,
May the Good Lord bless this coach and all those that set forth within her.
Welcome Dave
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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