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Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM (STRICKEN FOR YEARS WITH POWER LOSS-ASKING FOR HELP)
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292294 is a reply to message #292162] Wed, 16 December 2015 08:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jhbridges is currently offline  jhbridges   United States
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
Senior Member
Have a look at http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/cane-9-creek-rv-park-heflin-2c-al/p58467-fuel-pump-follies.html
The silver plate on the engine block covers the mechanical fuel pump mount. Above the brass fitting which has the rubber hose connected is the steel line which goes to the carburetor inlet, there's no rubber hose on the engine. The other end of the rubber hose (lower end, out of sight) is about an inch below the bottom of the picture. It fits onto a steel line wheich crosses over to the drivers' side of the coach along the crossmember undeer the engine. The driver's side end of this pipe has the rubber hose from the rear connected.

--johnny


Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons. Braselton, Ga. I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292296 is a reply to message #292162] Wed, 16 December 2015 08:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
Senior Member
If you want me to give it a listen let me know. I get over to Gurnee to Highwaystars on some weekends to develop parts for the Turbo Regals and GM Restoration. My observation is that putting thinks back to GM correct almost always fixes the problem. Over the years I have aquired on the cheap several cars where people gave up on them. Then fixed them, solving the "mystery" usually something simple. Undoing the PO "fixes" usually corrects the problem. I'm not one to add on more stuff to fix a problem. Your stone filter is an example. The most important thing about any filter is it's flow rate, not it's better micron rating. Sounds like it was not seated properly anyway. Have you tryed running with the gas cap off? The delayed power loss makes me wonder about negative tank pressure Clogged exhaust has an easilly identifiable signature where idle is good, WOT good for like one second, then power loss but not missfire. Ignition is usually more a missfire or herky jerky characteristic. Fuel delivery is usually more of a flat spot/ bog and can pop through carb due to lean condition. If your ears are good a tach is not needed for these tests. Send me a PM if you want.

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292316 is a reply to message #292277] Wed, 16 December 2015 12:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
Messages: 91
Registered: August 2014
Location: Illinois
Karma: 0
Member
get rid of the stone filter..

`NOTED

Do you have a tachometer?

YES

If you have is the engine reving ,or is it cutting out or is it boging

WHEN THE POWER LOSS OCCURS, I SEE FLUCTUATION IN THE TACH

One day as I sat reving it, I notices a flicker in the test lite I had hooked up....This flicker led me to replace my new ignition module

I WILL CERTIANLY NOTE AND MENTION THIS

THANKYOU
SLC
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292319 is a reply to message #292316] Wed, 16 December 2015 12:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
Senior Member
Ohhhh Kkkk. You have changed and re-changed everything in the fuel system.
No change in the problem, it still exists. That would tell me to quit
looking at the fuel system. That leaves two legs of the triad to consider.
Ignition and compression. MAKE EXTREMELY SURE THAT YOU HAVE FULL BATTERY
VOLTAGE AT THE DISTRIBUTOR. Early coaches originally fitted with points
type distributors, that have been up fitted with HEI distributors often
have a resistor in the primary ignition circuit. An HEI will give you fits
if it does not have 12.5 volts or more at the inlet to the cap. Symptoms
like you have described are very common. Compression, not so much. But
don't fail to check anyway.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Dec 16, 2015 10:04 AM, "StanC" wrote:

> get rid of the stone filter..
>
> `NOTED
>
> Do you have a tachometer?
>
> YES
>
> If you have is the engine reving ,or is it cutting out or is it boging
>
> WHEN THE POWER LOSS OCCURS, I SEE FLUCTUATION IN THE TACH
>
> One day as I sat reving it, I notices a flicker in the test lite I had
> hooked up....This flicker led me to replace my new ignition module
>
> I WILL CERTIANLY NOTE AND MENTION THIS
>
> THANKYOU
> SLC
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292321 is a reply to message #292319] Wed, 16 December 2015 12:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jimk is currently offline  jimk   United States
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Problem we have is that the owners do not know what is stock and wat is
update.
I know Nick , Gary and myself are always fighting with this type of issues
all day long when helping people.

On Wed, Dec 16, 2015 at 10:33 AM, James Hupy wrote:

> Ohhhh Kkkk. You have changed and re-changed everything in the fuel system.
> No change in the problem, it still exists. That would tell me to quit
> looking at the fuel system. That leaves two legs of the triad to consider.
> Ignition and compression. MAKE EXTREMELY SURE THAT YOU HAVE FULL BATTERY
> VOLTAGE AT THE DISTRIBUTOR. Early coaches originally fitted with points
> type distributors, that have been up fitted with HEI distributors often
> have a resistor in the primary ignition circuit. An HEI will give you fits
> if it does not have 12.5 volts or more at the inlet to the cap. Symptoms
> like you have described are very common. Compression, not so much. But
> don't fail to check anyway.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
> On Dec 16, 2015 10:04 AM, "StanC" wrote:
>
>> get rid of the stone filter..
>>
>> `NOTED
>>
>> Do you have a tachometer?
>>
>> YES
>>
>> If you have is the engine reving ,or is it cutting out or is it boging
>>
>> WHEN THE POWER LOSS OCCURS, I SEE FLUCTUATION IN THE TACH
>>
>> One day as I sat reving it, I notices a flicker in the test lite I had
>> hooked up....This flicker led me to replace my new ignition module
>>
>> I WILL CERTIANLY NOTE AND MENTION THIS
>>
>> THANKYOU
>> SLC
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>



--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292323 is a reply to message #292162] Wed, 16 December 2015 13:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
Senior Member
Yes. Wiring to an HEI upgrade on an early coach needs to be done correctly and to 'Mil spec' to work right. No bad crimps or slop. I would do a hands on inspection, test drive and next if not resolved, with a helper and extinguiser a test drive with the hatch and air cleaner off to see if fuel spray is lacking at time of power loss.

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292371 is a reply to message #292323] Thu, 17 December 2015 14:46 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Carl S. is currently offline  Carl S.   United States
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
Senior Member

I don't know how relevant this is to the discussion, but getting back to the stone filter, they seem to be very susceptible to having water in the gas.

A few years ago, I got my old Jeep out of the garage to go on a four wheeling trip. I had put some gas in it out of a drum I kept in the garage, and unbeknownst to me, the drum had some water in the bottom (condensation??). The Jeep has a High compression Buick V-6 in it with a Holley double pumper on it. It has those stone filters in the gas inlets. I got down the road from my house and started having trouble with the Jeep. I pulled over and eventually diagnosed the water in the gas. The engine would not run on the primary circuit but would rev up when I cracked open the secondaries. I removed the filter from the primary inlet and couldn't even blow through it. With the filter removed, the Jeep ran fine (after pumping some of the bad gas out.

That stone filter is obviously not doing it's job and might even be a big part of the problem.

I know you say the tanks are clean, and the filter at the selector valve is clean, but it makes sense that you might be stirring up something (dirt, rust, filter sock parts, ???) when you fill up with gas. This idea is based on the statement that the problem seemed to reoccur after getting gas. I know it's a pain in the butt, but I think would be taking another look at the tanks as well as any steel gas lines. The ethanol in the fuel is rumored to be rather corrosive plus it is hygroscopic, which might account for the water plugging up the stone filter.


Carl Stouffer '75 ex Palm Beach Tucson, AZ. Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292374 is a reply to message #292371] Thu, 17 December 2015 15:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Anonymous   United States
Carl S. wrote on Thu, 17 December 2015 14:46
I don't know how relevant this is to the discussion, but getting back to the stone filter, they seem to be very susceptible to having water in the gas.

A few years ago, I got my old Jeep out of the garage to go on a four wheeling trip. I had put some gas in it out of a drum I kept in the garage, and unbeknownst to me, the drum had some water in the bottom (condensation??). The Jeep has a High compression Buick V-6 in it with a Holley double pumper on it. It has those stone filters in the gas inlets. I got down the road from my house and started having trouble with the Jeep. I pulled over and eventually diagnosed the water in the gas. The engine would not run on the primary circuit but would rev up when I cracked open the secondaries. I removed the filter from the primary inlet and couldn't even blow through it. With the filter removed, the Jeep ran fine (after pumping some of the bad gas out.

That stone filter is obviously not doing it's job and might even be a big part of the problem.

I know you say the tanks are clean, and the filter at the selector valve is clean, but it makes sense that you might be stirring up something (dirt, rust, filter sock parts, ???) when you fill up with gas. This idea is based on the statement that the problem seemed to reoccur after getting gas. I know it's a pain in the butt, but I think would be taking another look at the tanks as well as any steel gas lines. The ethanol in the fuel is rumored to be rather corrosive plus it is hygroscopic, which might account for the water plugging up the stone filter.



yup, that was my exact thoughts too (stirring rust sediment in the tanks upon refueling) what else could do that? sounds like maybe the mechanic might be either lazy and dishonorable or incompetent?

Buick V6 power eh? ever hear of Jim Ruggles? was an old friend who built dominant busch grand national and indaycar engines up until they outlawed those Buicks.
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292376 is a reply to message #292371] Thu, 17 December 2015 16:16 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
Messages: 91
Registered: August 2014
Location: Illinois
Karma: 0
Member
I know you say the tanks are clean, and the filter at the selector valve is clean, but it makes sense that you might be stirring up something (dirt, rust, filter sock parts, ???) when you fill up with gas. This idea is based on the statement that the problem seemed to reoccur after getting gas.


THIS ENTIRE FIASCO BEGAN AFTER THE TANKS HAD BEEN DROPPED CLENAED AND INSPECTED AND THE HOSES WERE REPLACED. PLUS THERE ARE FUEL FILTERS JUST AFTER THE SOLENOID VALVES AND JUST BEFORE THE MECH FUEL FILTER. THE FILTER AFTER THE SOLENOID VALVE AND JUST BEFORE THE MECH FUEL PUMP NEVER HAVE SHOWN DIRT OR ANY OTHER KIND OF MATTER. fROM THE MECH FUEL PUMP ON WAS RUST. AFTER THE USELES RUSTY MECH FUEL PUMP WAS REPLACED, THE CARBORATOR THAT WAS CONTAMINATED WAS ALSO REPLACED WITH A REBUILD ( REBUILD FOR THE po ).

FUEL PSI SEEMS CORRECT THO WE ARE GOING TO CHECK AND THE FLO ALSO APPEARS CORRECT.
THANK YOU
SLC
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292377 is a reply to message #292374] Thu, 17 December 2015 16:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Gatsbys' Cruiser is currently offline  Gatsbys' Cruiser   United States
Messages: 91
Registered: August 2014
Location: Illinois
Karma: 0
Member
sounds like maybe the mechanic might be either lazy and dishonorable or incompetent?

YOU ARE KIDDING, RIGHT?

YOU CAN'T BE SURE OF WHO YOU ARE BUYING YOUR SUPPLIES FROM, HOW CAN YOU FINGER SOMEONE YOU HAVE NEVER TALKED TO???
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292378 is a reply to message #292377] Thu, 17 December 2015 16:25 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Anonymous   United States
Gatsbys' Cruiser wrote on Thu, 17 December 2015 16:18
sounds like maybe the mechanic might be either lazy and dishonorable or incompetent?

YOU ARE KIDDING, RIGHT?

YOU CAN'T BE SURE OF WHO YOU ARE BUYING YOUR SUPPLIES FROM, HOW CAN YOU FINGER SOMEONE YOU HAVE NEVER TALKED TO???


I guess you missed that word "maybe"? just trying to help.. the only way to be sure anything is done right is to learn how to do it yourself IMO though

edit: actually there are a few details you have written here that lead me to consider that that may be a possibility. head scratching & rusting mechanical fuel pump a two of them.

edit2: Im not familiar enough with the fuel systems yet but its not an average set up and maybe since this happens after refueling and IF YOU ARE CERTAIN BEYOND THE SHADOW OF ANY DOUBT that the tanks are clean then maybe water is entering somewhere arround the filler tub lines and sitting somewhere until you refuel? IF that is the case then is it possible that it has rained between each of these refueling because if it hasnt then the last refueling should have washed any water out before the next refueling.

I just wild guessing in an effort to help you but maybe someone else here that does have experience on this exact type of fuel system can take it from there?
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292385 is a reply to message #292376] Thu, 17 December 2015 17:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
Senior Member
Stan,

You probably have already double checked the tank and line work but you
mentioned that the problems started immediately after the tank work.
Although correlation does not prove causation I have encountered many times
while working on customer vehicles as well as the GMC that often a new
problem which arises immediately after a mechanical operation is the result
of the operation or collateral damage from the operation. Perhaps inspect
the completed work looking for a problem rather than looking for it to be
ok. Any time we replace a cooling system part in my shop the tech who
completed the work is to double check it. Next we have a different tech
check the work. I have not had to purchase another engine since we adopted
this policy.

My 2c

Sully
77 royale
Seattle.

On Thursday, December 17, 2015, StanC wrote:

> I know you say the tanks are clean, and the filter at the selector valve
> is clean, but it makes sense that you might be stirring up something (dirt,
> rust, filter sock parts, ???) when you fill up with gas. This idea is
> based on the statement that the problem seemed to reoccur after getting gas.
>
>
> THIS ENTIRE FIASCO BEGAN AFTER THE TANKS HAD BEEN DROPPED CLENAED AND
> INSPECTED AND THE HOSES WERE REPLACED. PLUS THERE ARE FUEL FILTERS JUST
> AFTER
> THE SOLENOID VALVES AND JUST BEFORE THE MECH FUEL FILTER. THE FILTER
> AFTER THE SOLENOID VALVE AND JUST BEFORE THE MECH FUEL PUMP NEVER HAVE SHOWN
> DIRT OR ANY OTHER KIND OF MATTER. fROM THE MECH FUEL PUMP ON WAS RUST.
> AFTER THE USELES RUSTY MECH FUEL PUMP WAS REPLACED, THE CARBORATOR THAT WAS
> CONTAMINATED WAS ALSO REPLACED WITH A REBUILD ( REBUILD FOR THE po ).
>
> FUEL PSI SEEMS CORRECT THO WE ARE GOING TO CHECK AND THE FLO ALSO APPEARS
> CORRECT.
> THANK YOU
> SLC
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292396 is a reply to message #292374] Thu, 17 December 2015 19:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Carl S. is currently offline  Carl S.   United States
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
Senior Member

1gmcmh wrote on Thu, 17 December 2015 14:59


Buick V6 power eh? ever hear of Jim Ruggles? was an old friend who built dominant busch grand national and inday car engines up until they outlawed those Buicks.


A little off topic here, but yeah, it's a 225 odd fire out of a '64 Skylark with 11:1 (300 V-8 four barrel) pistons, a stock cam, Offenhauser intake, Holley 650 double pumper, and Doug Thorley headers. I put it together when I was about 19 years old and have been thrashing it ever since.


Carl Stouffer '75 ex Palm Beach Tucson, AZ. Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292401 is a reply to message #292188] Thu, 17 December 2015 21:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Tom Whitton   United States
Messages: 235
Registered: February 2004
Location: Paducah, KY
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Hi Stan,

Right after we bought our coach, almost 16 years ago, we had similar problems causing frustration, cancelled trips and one expensive tow, without solving the problem. We would drive along just fine then the coach would lose power, slow down and occasionally die. After sitting on the side of the road for 20 or 30-minutes, it would start up and run fine for a while then the problem would repeat. This was before or when the GMC Net was just underway so we didn't have this resource. In our case, the problem turned out to be a ball that was stuck in a plastic vent valve. You are probably aware of it but it's the small valve mounted on the left rear wheel liner. There is a hose that runs from the rear gas tank to the valve. You can reach it easily by removing the left middle wheel. Over time the ball can get stuck, which can cause the problems we had, that were close to those you are experiencing. I removed the valve, soaked it in brake cleaner and shook it until the ball rattled inside, re-installed it and my problem was solved. It is something you can do yourself. It's free and probably worth a try..

Good luck,

Tom Whitton
26 Foot updated GMC
Paducah, KY


Message: 9
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2015 15:20:31 -0800
From: Todd Sullivan
To: "gmclist@list.gmcnet.org"
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Stan,

You probably have already double checked the tank and line work but you
mentioned that the problems started immediately after the tank work.
Although correlation does not prove causation I have encountered many times
while working on customer vehicles as well as the GMC that often a new
problem which arises immediately after a mechanical operation is the result
of the operation or collateral damage from the operation. Perhaps inspect
the completed work looking for a problem rather than looking for it to be
ok. Any time we replace a cooling system part in my shop the tech who
completed the work is to double check it. Next we have a different tech
check the work. I have not had to purchase another engine since we adopted
this policy.

My 2c

Sully
77 royale
Seattle.

On Thursday, December 17, 2015, StanC wrote:

> I know you say the tanks are clean, and the filter at the selector valve
> is clean, but it makes sense that you might be stirring up something (dirt,
> rust, filter sock parts, ???) when you fill up with gas. This idea is
> based on the statement that the problem seemed to reoccur after getting gas.
>
>
> THIS ENTIRE FIASCO BEGAN AFTER THE TANKS HAD BEEN DROPPED CLENAED AND
> INSPECTED AND THE HOSES WERE REPLACED. PLUS THERE ARE FUEL FILTERS JUST
> AFTER
> THE SOLENOID VALVES AND JUST BEFORE THE MECH FUEL FILTER. THE FILTER
> AFTER THE SOLENOID VALVE AND JUST BEFORE THE MECH FUEL PUMP NEVER HAVE SHOWN
> DIRT OR ANY OTHER KIND OF MATTER. fROM THE MECH FUEL PUMP ON WAS RUST.
> AFTER THE USELES RUSTY MECH FUEL PUMP WAS REPLACED, THE CARBORATOR THAT WAS
> CONTAMINATED WAS ALSO REPLACED WITH A REBUILD ( REBUILD FOR THE po ).
>
> FUEL PSI SEEMS CORRECT THO WE ARE GOING TO CHECK AND THE FLO ALSO APPEARS
> CORRECT.
> THANK YOU
> SLC
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292406 is a reply to message #292401] Fri, 18 December 2015 00:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jimk is currently offline  jimk   United States
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Stan,
I will tell you, that when anyone like Sully says to double check, you need
to take it to heart and not push it aside thinking that the job was done
100% correct.
My guys get rather upset with me when I question them on a work they did,
but they do make error like i do.Just because I work on a customers coach
does not guarantee that the work was done correctly. I have them check my
work.

On Thu, Dec 17, 2015 at 7:24 PM, Tom Whitton
wrote:

> Hi Stan,
>
> Right after we bought our coach, almost 16 years ago, we had similar
> problems causing frustration, cancelled trips and one expensive tow,
> without solving the problem. We would drive along just fine then the coach
> would lose power, slow down and occasionally die. After sitting on the
> side of the road for 20 or 30-minutes, it would start up and run fine for a
> while then the problem would repeat. This was before or when the GMC Net
> was just underway so we didn't have this resource. In our case, the
> problem turned out to be a ball that was stuck in a plastic vent valve.
> You are probably aware of it but it's the small valve mounted on the left
> rear wheel liner. There is a hose that runs from the rear gas tank to the
> valve. You can reach it easily by removing the left middle wheel. Over
> time the ball can get stuck, which can cause the problems we had, that were
> close to those you are experiencing. I removed the valve, soaked it in
> brake cleaner and shook it until the ball rattled inside, re-installed it
> and my problem was solved. It is something you can do yourself. It's free
> and probably worth a try..
>
> Good luck,
>
> Tom Whitton
> 26 Foot updated GMC
> Paducah, KY
>
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2015 15:20:31 -0800
> From: Todd Sullivan
> To: "gmclist@list.gmcnet.org"
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Stan,
>
> You probably have already double checked the tank and line work but you
> mentioned that the problems started immediately after the tank work.
> Although correlation does not prove causation I have encountered many times
> while working on customer vehicles as well as the GMC that often a new
> problem which arises immediately after a mechanical operation is the result
> of the operation or collateral damage from the operation. Perhaps inspect
> the completed work looking for a problem rather than looking for it to be
> ok. Any time we replace a cooling system part in my shop the tech who
> completed the work is to double check it. Next we have a different tech
> check the work. I have not had to purchase another engine since we adopted
> this policy.
>
> My 2c
>
> Sully
> 77 royale
> Seattle.
>
> On Thursday, December 17, 2015, StanC wrote:
>
>> I know you say the tanks are clean, and the filter at the selector valve
>> is clean, but it makes sense that you might be stirring up something
> (dirt,
>> rust, filter sock parts, ???) when you fill up with gas. This idea is
>> based on the statement that the problem seemed to reoccur after getting
> gas.
>>
>>
>> THIS ENTIRE FIASCO BEGAN AFTER THE TANKS HAD BEEN DROPPED CLENAED AND
>> INSPECTED AND THE HOSES WERE REPLACED. PLUS THERE ARE FUEL FILTERS JUST
>> AFTER
>> THE SOLENOID VALVES AND JUST BEFORE THE MECH FUEL FILTER. THE FILTER
>> AFTER THE SOLENOID VALVE AND JUST BEFORE THE MECH FUEL PUMP NEVER HAVE
> SHOWN
>> DIRT OR ANY OTHER KIND OF MATTER. fROM THE MECH FUEL PUMP ON WAS RUST.
>> AFTER THE USELES RUSTY MECH FUEL PUMP WAS REPLACED, THE CARBORATOR THAT
> WAS
>> CONTAMINATED WAS ALSO REPLACED WITH A REBUILD ( REBUILD FOR THE po ).
>>
>> FUEL PSI SEEMS CORRECT THO WE ARE GOING TO CHECK AND THE FLO ALSO APPEARS
>> CORRECT.
>> THANK YOU
>> SLC
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>



--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
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www.appliedgmc.com
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Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292410 is a reply to message #292162] Fri, 18 December 2015 07:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
SeanKidd is currently offline  SeanKidd   United States
Messages: 747
Registered: June 2012
Location: Northern Neck Virginia
Karma: 4
Senior Member
Stan, I'm sure your head is swirling with all of these recommendations, just make a list and cross off each one when they are done, start with the cheapest, simplest first.

On another note, the filter before your selector valve...pumps are designed to push, not suck; if you are solely relying on mechanical pump, a filter that far away, on the suction side cannot be a low micron filter, it will create too much resistance and cavitate. Even an electric diaphragm pump, like a facet pump may have difficulty sucking through an inline filter. When I redesigned my fuel system ( based on the collective knowledge of this forum) and pump manufacturers recommendation, I installed a pre filter of 100 micron, and a post filter of 5 micron. The smallest pre filter recommended was 80 micron to meet warrantee specifications. Most inline filters are 5-15 micron. Carefully disconnect fuel line from carb and fill a mason jar to witness flow, I fit fills the jar without sputtering, that is NOT your problem...ensure your tank is breathing properly (finger on the straw) and check your ignition coil running voltage. Get a vacuum gauge, they are cheap and valuable information derived from what it tells you...I Installed a dash mount and try to drive in the "green" at all times.


Sean and Stephanie
73 Ex-CanyonLands 26' #317 "Oliver"
Hubler 1-Ton, Quad-Bags, Rear Disc, Reaction Arms, P.Huber TBs, 3.70:1 LSD Honda 6500 inverter gen.
Colonial Travelers
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292413 is a reply to message #292401] Fri, 18 December 2015 07:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
Senior Member
Stan,

IIRC someone suggested driving with the gas cap loose, I'd like to modify that a bit and suggest when the problem occurs loosen it
and see if you hear air rushing in.

I built a hot rod Harley for a guy when I was working in Hong Kong. He called me one Sunday complaining the bike just stopped all of
a sudden. I grabbed my road tool kit and headed to his location on Hong Kong island. When I got there I straddled the seat and shook
it left and right so I could hear if it had gas which it did. I then turned on the ignition, hit the start button and it fire
INSTANTLY.

The owner looked at me dumbfounded, I took the bike for a short ride and all was well so I packed up and headed home. I got about
halfway home when he called me and told me it happened AGAIN!

I headed to his new location and when I got there the FIRST thing I did was unscrew the gas cap. When I did there was a an almighty
WHOOSH! I turned the gas cap over and noted it was not vented. I thought about it for a split second then realized that it was a NEW
gas cap. The guy installed a non vented gas cap instead of a vented one which is what was needed!

Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic

-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Whitton

Hi Stan,

Right after we bought our coach, almost 16 years ago, we had similar problems causing frustration, cancelled trips and one expensive
tow, without solving the problem. We would drive along just fine then the coach would lose power, slow down and occasionally die.
After sitting on the side of the road for 20 or 30-minutes, it would start up and run fine for a while then the problem would
repeat. This was before or when the GMC Net was just underway so we didn't have this resource. In our case, the problem turned out
to be a ball that was stuck in a plastic vent valve. You are probably aware of it but it's the small valve mounted on the left rear
wheel liner. There is a hose that runs from the rear gas tank to the valve. You can reach it easily by removing the left middle
wheel. Over time the ball can get stuck, which can cause the problems we had, that were close to those you are experiencing. I
removed the valve, soaked it in brake cleaner and shook it until the ball
rattled inside, re-installed it and my problem was solved. It is something you can do yourself. It's free and probably worth a
try..

Good luck,

Tom Whitton



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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292418 is a reply to message #292162] Fri, 18 December 2015 08:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
Senior Member
Rob, I think I touched on the neg tank pressure thing a ways back as did Tom with the gummed up venting issue. We may be on to something with a consensus here. There may be other issues caused by the add in filters and 'fixes' done that need to be undone. I have PMed Stan and weather permitting hope to at least give a look and listen diagnosis in the near future as he is one hour away. If I can get it to stumble your gas cap test is first on the list.

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292432 is a reply to message #292418] Fri, 18 December 2015 11:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
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Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
Senior Member
As Rob stated a change was made and a problem resulted from the change.
Critically check all work which was done immediately prior to the problem
BEFORE you try other things to remedy. Did a line get pinched when tanks re
installed? Might have to partially drop tanks and check for a flat hose.
What else had to be removed or disconnected for the tank and line work etc.
Were the lines hooked back up correctly as far as orientation etc etc.

Sully
77 Royale
Seattle

On Fri, Dec 18, 2015 at 6:56 AM, John R. Lebetski
wrote:

> Rob, I think I touched on the neg tank pressure thing a ways back as did
> Tom with the gummed up venting issue. We may be on to something with a
> consensus here. There may be other issues caused by the add in filters and
> 'fixes' done that need to be undone. I have PMed Stan and weather
> permitting hope to at least give a look and listen diagnosis in the near
> future as he is one hour away. If I can get it to stumble your gas cap test
> is first on the list.
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> Source America First
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: [GMCnet] GMC MOTORHOME POWER LOSS PROBLEM [message #292437 is a reply to message #292432] Fri, 18 December 2015 13:49 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
fitzmorrispr is currently offline  fitzmorrispr   United States
Messages: 137
Registered: February 2013
Location: Los Angeles
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Normally i would not chime in on one of these, but i wanted to say that my
first thought, reading the description of the symptoms, was that tank vent
in the wheel well, just like Tom said.

The reasoning for me was that fueling seemed to correlate with the problem,
and I have heard accounts of fuel exiting through that vent when fueling.
If fuel can get to it, then fuel can gum it up, or maybe float the ball
into a position where it will stick...
On Fri, Dec 18, 2015 at 09:28 Todd Sullivan wrote:

> As Rob stated a change was made and a problem resulted from the change.
> Critically check all work which was done immediately prior to the problem
> BEFORE you try other things to remedy. Did a line get pinched when tanks re
> installed? Might have to partially drop tanks and check for a flat hose.
> What else had to be removed or disconnected for the tank and line work etc.
> Were the lines hooked back up correctly as far as orientation etc etc.
>
> Sully
> 77 Royale
> Seattle
>
> On Fri, Dec 18, 2015 at 6:56 AM, John R. Lebetski >
> wrote:
>
>> Rob, I think I touched on the neg tank pressure thing a ways back as did
>> Tom with the gummed up venting issue. We may be on to something with a
>> consensus here. There may be other issues caused by the add in filters
> and
>> 'fixes' done that need to be undone. I have PMed Stan and weather
>> permitting hope to at least give a look and listen diagnosis in the near
>> future as he is one hour away. If I can get it to stumble your gas cap
> test
>> is first on the list.
>> --
>> John Lebetski
>> Woodstock, IL
>> 77 Eleganza II
>> Source America First
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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