| [GMCnet] GMC Plywood floor thickness. [message #289588] |
Wed, 28 October 2015 10:01 |
glwgmc
Messages: 1014
Registered: June 2004
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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The easiest way for most to make the conversion from inch to metric is to use measuring devices that show both. For length I tell people to think in inches if you have to, but measure and work in metric. Quite soon the brain will make the conversion for you. Where the metric system shines is when you need to get down to one mm (about 0.040”) or less. It is really hard to see/find that on a typical inch tape rule, but easy on the metric scale (no harder to find 476mm than it is to find 400mm). If you want to be precise you have to quickly move from fractional inches to decimal inches anyway so might as well start in metric and work from there as you are already in a decimal system.
I made the switch years ago because I build my fine furniture to a set of standards that are easy for me to work with. In my case all rails and styles are 50mm wide by 20mm thick and all tongues and grooves are 10mm wide and 10mm deep. Say you want a cabinet door to be 680mm (a shade over 26 3/4”) wide. Typically the style pieces (up and down along the edges) will go from the bottom of the door to the top so the rail pieces (side to side at the top and bottom) need to be 680 - 50 - 50 + 10 + 10 = 600mm long. The panel piece needs to be 600 - whatever you want for clearance to allow for expansion and contraction, say 2mm per side, so you build the panel piece 596mm wide. Try that in your head working in inches with say a 3/8” x 3/8” tongue and groove, 2 x 3/4” rails and styles and 1/16” clearance on each side for the panel. Do it three times and see how much variation you come up with and that is using “easy” inch measurements. QED for me
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed and hand crafted in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building in historic Kerby, OR
glwork@mac.com
http://jerrywork.com
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Jerry & Sharon Work
78 Royale
Kerby, OR
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