| Side Trim Replacement [message #289427] |
Sun, 25 October 2015 21:34  |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Karma: 0
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I'm finally getting ready to replace my side trim with some aluminum bar stock. Upon removing the old stainless trim, I notices some gray putty-like material under the stainless (looks similar to plumber's putty) that seemed original and was still soft and pliable. I'd like to clean and replace the material in the channel, but need any advice of what to use as I dislike leaks. I wonder if plumber's putty wouldn't work just fine.
The new trim should help with updated the looks, but I definitely want to use what would work the best to seal the body seam.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Side Trim Replacement [message #289429 is a reply to message #289427] |
Sun, 25 October 2015 21:59  |
kelvin
Messages: 608
Registered: February 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
Karma: 0
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On 10/25/2015 7:34 PM, George Rudawsky wrote:
> I'm finally getting ready to replace my side trim with some aluminum bar stock. Upon removing the old stainless trim, I notices some gray putty-like
> material under the stainless (looks similar to plumber's putty) that seemed original and was still soft and pliable. I'd like to clean and replace
> the material in the channel, but need any advice of what to use as I dislike leaks. I wonder if plumber's putty wouldn't work just fine.
>
> The new trim should help with updated the looks, but I definitely want to use what would work the best to seal the body seam.
I'd clean the putty out and make sure any residue was gone. Various
solvents for that, of course. Put masking tape on both sides of the
seam, fill it with polyurethane sealer, squeegee that flat and then
remove the tape.
At least that's what I would do. :-)
Kelvin
'73 23' in Eugene, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] Side Trim Replacement [message #289450 is a reply to message #289427] |
Mon, 26 October 2015 09:52 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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George,
You're really do not need to remove or add any sealant underneath the new aluminum flat stock, which should be 2 inch wide by 1/8 inch or 3/16 inch in thickness. I am not sure of the grade that would work best, but maybe Kerry can make a suggestion as he deal with aluminum everyday. You going to want to seal the flat stock to the body with body seam sealer such as one of these listed below. This is what prevent leaks into the coach. The last fill in I watched a number of years ago they used rivets to install the flat stock. Do finish the ends of the strips before fastening them. They used a drill to recess the head of the rivet into the aluminum and then filled the hole and sanded smooth. You could not see how it was fastened when finished.
or
http://tinyurl.com/ns5znpf
or
http://tinyurl.com/qzzlmu2
There are many more listed and also check with your auto paint section at your local auto parts store. The big box AP store don’t really carry paint and paint supplies.
Regards,
JR Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC Since 1998
GMC Eastern States Charter Member
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMCMHI Since 1998
78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
1975 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
> On Oct 25, 2015, at 10:34 PM, George Rudawsky wrote:
>
> I'm finally getting ready to replace my side trim with some aluminum bar stock. Upon removing the old stainless trim, I notices some gray putty-like
> material under the stainless (looks similar to plumber's putty) that seemed original and was still soft and pliable. I'd like to clean and replace
> the material in the channel, but need any advice of what to use as I dislike leaks. I wonder if plumber's putty wouldn't work just fine.
>
> The new trim should help with updated the looks, but I definitely want to use what would work the best to seal the body seam.
> --
> George Rudawsky
> Chicago, IL
> 75 Palm Beach
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: Side Trim Replacement [message #289470 is a reply to message #289427] |
Mon, 26 October 2015 15:59 |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
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Thanks for the advice. The old sealer is very discolored and moldy, so I'll remove it and fill the cavity with new butyl tape. As all the old screws holding the trim in place are rusted in place, I have to grind the heads off each one individually. Kind of a messy job, but it should look nice when it's all done. I'm using flat head stainless sheet metal screws to attach the trim after countersinking the holes, so it should provide a nice, finished look when completed. The seam sealer seems like a good idea when attaching the trim as well (I hate leaks!).
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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| Re: Side Trim Replacement [message #289488 is a reply to message #289427] |
Mon, 26 October 2015 21:48 |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Karma: 0
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I actually had a metal supplier close to me that was able to supply the aluminum. For ease of transportation, I did have the driver's side moulding cut into two pieces, each about 12 feet long. They cut the other pieces to size for me and the aluminum bar is easy to drill and dress the exposed ends with a hand file.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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