You can replace just the clutch and coil without removing the compressor. Verify defective clutch coil by applying 12 volts and ground directly from the battery using a fused wire. Use a 20 amp fuse in your jumper wire. Disconnect the coil wires from the vehicle harness before you put power on them. If the clutch works with the substitute power supply and ground, then the problem is in the vehicle, not the clutch. If it still won't engage or it blows the fuse, replace the clutch and coil. Use the ground wire terminal on the compressor, not just the compressor body when testing. A process of elimination and substitution.

I tried running power directly to the clutch and got nothing.

I would rather replace the coil or clutch assembly than replace the compressor with a clutch but I am having a hard time finding a replacement clutch assembly part number. Has anyone replaced just the clutch assembly?

Thanks!

John

In the manual, they list the acceptable range for the gap between the "frictional surfaces" at 0.22" to 0.57".

It may be possible to re-shim the clutch if the gap is wider than this. Another alternative might be to cheat by placing something between the hub and the outer clutch disc (to push it a little closer to the coil, to allow it to engage easier). I did that on a Volvo V70 that had a too-wide gap, using a bit of wire. 30 minutes, five cents worth of landscaping wire, and I saved a LOT of work and had an A/C that worked like a champ again.

http://volvoforums.com/forum/2001-2013-model-year-v70-55/c-compressor-shim-option-78578/