Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch?
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch? [message #287359 is a reply to message #287357] |
Wed, 16 September 2015 02:16   |
Bullitthead
Messages: 1411
Registered: November 2013
Karma: 5
|
Senior Member |
|
|
So apparently the best place to start is on the INSIDE, not with the obvious easy-to-get-to screws on the outside (even though they are frozen/rusted to the threaded inserts in the plastic body).
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch? [message #287371 is a reply to message #287359] |
Wed, 16 September 2015 08:59 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Terry,
You HAVE to start on the inside and remove the internal end caps ceiling and side panels, then the spray foam, then the wiring. Once
all that is clear you do the outside.
Hmmmmmm, I better add a disclaimer; "at least on an Avion." ;-)
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry
So apparently the best place to start is on the INSIDE, not with the obvious easy-to-get-to screws on the outside (even though they
are frozen/rusted to the threaded inserts in the plastic body).
--
Terry
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch? [message #287377 is a reply to message #287374] |
Wed, 16 September 2015 11:20 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
BobDunahugh wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 08:56
Any photo's I've ever seen shows that the interior components were hauled in the back. With assembly working to the rear. Then the last piece to go on was the back hatch. I've seem wires across the back. But not on the hatch.Bob Dunahugh
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
That's true on GMC built interiors, but the rest were transmodes and upfitted later--so the wiring was already in place.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch? [message #287388 is a reply to message #287377] |
Wed, 16 September 2015 14:05 |
 |
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
BobD,
Were I you, fortunately I am not in your position, I would try to leave the that back door alone.
Prior to the Royale, Coachmen only did Truck Campers and Travel Trailers. The method of assembly of these (at least at that time) required that the shell be finished prior to the installation of the interior. So, it had to at least fit through the regular door. They did do some strange tricks to make this work, but nothing you can't handle.
Matt
Bob de Kruyff wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 12:20That's true on GMC built interiors, but the rest were transmodes and upfitted later--so the wiring was already in place.
Bob Dunahugh wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 08:56Any photo's I've ever seen shows that the interior components were hauled in the back. With assembly working to the rear. Then the last piece to go on was the back hatch. I've seem wires across the back. But not on the hatch.
Bob Dunahugh
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch? [message #287394 is a reply to message #287388] |
Wed, 16 September 2015 15:15 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Matt Colie wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 12:05BobD,
Were I you, fortunately I am not in your position, I would try to leave the that back door alone.
Prior to the Royale, Coachmen only did Truck Campers and Travel Trailers. The method of assembly of these (at least at that time) required that the shell be finished prior to the installation of the interior. So, it had to at least fit through the regular door. They did do some strange tricks to make this work, but nothing you can't handle.
Matt
Bob de Kruyff wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 12:20That's true on GMC built interiors, but the rest were transmodes and upfitted later--so the wiring was already in place.
Bob Dunahugh wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 08:56Any photo's I've ever seen shows that the interior components were hauled in the back. With assembly working to the rear. Then the last piece to go on was the back hatch. I've seem wires across the back. But not on the hatch.
Bob Dunahugh
Bob,
I agree with Matt. It seems to me it would be an awful lot of unnecessary work to remove and replace the back panel. Since you are widening the entry door anyway, wouldn't you be able to fit nearly anything you want to in through there? Unless you have another reason to remove the hatch, I suggest leaving it attached.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch? [message #287396 is a reply to message #287394] |
Wed, 16 September 2015 15:35 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I believe that Jim Bounds at the Coop has been making rear entry door panels for a local soft drink company's delivery vans.
Depending upon the width required, that COULD be worth investigating as an option.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ Since 30 November '53 ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ Member GMCMI and Classics ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ~ TZE166V101966 ~ ~ ~ ~
~ ~ ~ '76 ex-Palm Beach ~ ~ ~
~~ k2gkk + hotmail dot com ~~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
______________
|[ ]~~~[][ ][]\
"--OO--[]---O-"
> Date: Wed, 16 Sep 2015 14:15:45 -0600
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> From: carljr3b@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch?
>
> Matt Colie wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 12:05
>> BobD,
>>
>> Were I you, fortunately I am not in your position, I would try to leave the that back door alone.
>>
>> Prior to the Royale, Coachmen only did Truck Campers and Travel Trailers. The method of assembly of these (at least at that time) required that
>> the shell be finished prior to the installation of the interior. So, it had to at least fit through the regular door. They did do some strange
>> tricks to make this work, but nothing you can't handle.
>>
>> Matt
>>
>> Bob de Kruyff wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 12:20
>>> That's true on GMC built interiors, but the rest were transmodes and upfitted later--so the wiring was already in place.
>>
>> Bob Dunahugh wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 08:56
>>> Any photo's I've ever seen shows that the interior components were hauled in the back. With assembly working to the rear. Then the last piece
>>> to go on was the back hatch. I've seem wires across the back. But not on the hatch.
>>> Bob Dunahugh
>
>
>
> Bob,
>
> I agree with Matt. It seems to me it would be an awful lot of unnecessary work to remove and replace the back panel. Since you are widening the
> entry door anyway, wouldn't you be able to fit nearly anything you want to in through there? Unless you have another reason to remove the hatch, I
> suggest leaving it attached.
> --
> Carl Stouffer
> '75 ex Palm Beach
> Tucson, AZ.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch? [message #287397 is a reply to message #287374] |
Wed, 16 September 2015 15:44 |
LarryInSanDiego
Messages: 336
Registered: September 2006
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
BobDunahugh wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 07:56
Any photo's I've ever seen shows that the interior components were hauled in the back. With assembly working to the rear. Then the last piece to go on was the back hatch...
So now that has me wondering. Have people been removing modules through the regular side door? Mine I'm assuming is GM assembled. Reason I'm asking is I'd also like to replace the flooring as well in mine.
Larry Engelbrecht
San Diego, CA
'73 26' ex-Glacier
TZE063V100319 03/07/73
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch? [message #287406 is a reply to message #287397] |
Wed, 16 September 2015 16:37 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
|
|
LarryInSanDiego wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 13:44BobDunahugh wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 07:56
Any photo's I've ever seen shows that the interior components were hauled in the back. With assembly working to the rear. Then the last piece to go on was the back hatch...
So now that has me wondering. Have people been removing modules through the regular side door? Mine I'm assuming is GM assembled. Reason I'm asking is I'd also like to replace the flooring as well in mine.
Larry,
I believe you can get everything out the side entry door but the big built in modules (wet bath, closet/wardrobe, etc). I know the dinette, couch, etc will fit out the door as will the kitchen cabinets. There should be no need to remove the bath module or dinette to replace the flooring, unless you are referring to the subfloor.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch? [message #287408 is a reply to message #287407] |
Wed, 16 September 2015 16:59 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
|
|
LarryInSanDiego wrote on Wed, 16 September 2015 14:57I get I should have said subfloor.
Even then, you don't really need to take the major modules out of the coach. Just move them forward, do that section of the floor, and then move them back.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch? [message #287429 is a reply to message #287352] |
Wed, 16 September 2015 23:07 |
Adrien G.
Messages: 474
Registered: May 2008
Location: Burns Flat, OK 73624
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Bob,
My experience is from a GMC built coach, not sure on coaches built by others.
On the interior there screws holding inside panels around window, and disconnect the license light wire. And whatever someone else may have added.
On the outside the screws required some persuasion in the form of screw driver, vise grip, hammer. Use vise grip for torque on screw driver, and hammer to
shock the screw. Most likely the screws will strip the holes out, the SMC has no inserts and is soft, the screws are a high/low thread type.
My fix for the screw problem was to drill through to the inside (wile 4 screws are holding panel in place. Do not drill the bottom row until the panel is out)
when panel is out redrill the inside for a rivetnut (5/16-18 alum McMaster # 93482A815) the rivetnut flange will need to be notch as needed then I epoxied them in my final assembly. The inside does need to be out for all this screw work
The screws are from ACF phone 866-573-0445 description is 304 SS Button Socket Cap Screws 5/16-18 x 2-1/4
Rivet nuts McMaster # 93482A815
In reguard to taking items out the door. Couch, dinnett will, galley maybe, fridge, closet, shower(not) module in pieces.
Do as said, do the front floor work then move module forward and do the rest or next section. Unless the rear panel is leaking, and the modules are sawdust.
Need more, call me 530-nine-three-3 3-nine-nine-6
Adrien & Jenny Genesoto
75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild
Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Any input on removing the back hatch? [message #287451 is a reply to message #287426] |
Thu, 17 September 2015 16:57 |
Don A
Messages: 895
Registered: October 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
"Seems to me that to have the best access to the original screws. You revers that posses."
Seems logical Bob. But after the modules were set in through the back, they weren't necessarily screwed in from the back, like the wiring strung across the back
Don Adams Dallas, TX
'76 26' Glenbrook, '90 Sidekick
rebuilt by R Archer, powered by J Bounds, Koba
[IMG]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6109/G2.jpg[/IMG]
|
|
|
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Sat Oct 05 15:02:19 CDT 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01318 seconds
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
