Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line
| [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line [message #284893] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 15:48  |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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I read the “easy way” on Gene’s site, up and out the front, but my radiator just won’t budge. I’ve taken everything loose but it does not want to go up. So, I’m on my way to buy a metal cutting blade for the GMC Tool so that I can modify the frame with hinges - as has been done before - and just drop it straight down.
Removing the oil cooling lines was worrisome, but successful. My beloved PO installed a transmission cooler, so one radiator connection was a hose attached to a barb, the other was a hard line going in to the radiator. Loosening the fittings twisted the other hard line and snapped it. Now what? I’m not too fond of replacing the transmission lines. Could I attach another barb at the radiator and use hose to make the final connection? What about corrosion? Should I just buy a length of PolyArmor?
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, CA
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line [message #284899 is a reply to message #284893] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 17:00  |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Larry, mine did the same thing with the upper transmission line. I save the fitting though, and cut the line out of it. I cut the line about halfway across the radiator and used a compression splice to splice in a piece of copper line which I shaped to get to the cooler, and flared the old fitting onto it. So far, works fine. The radiator shop removed the oil lines at my request and tossed them, I got a set of J R Slaten's steel ones to replace them.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line [message #284903 is a reply to message #284899] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 17:15 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Johnny,
If you're going to replace the trans cooler lines get rid of the 5/16 inch lines and replace them with 3/8 inch lines. You will get a 30 to 40% increased flow to the cooler. I would also recommend an Aux trans oil cooler to provide extra cooling if you plan on towing.
JR Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMC Eastern States
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMCMHI
78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
1975 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
> On Aug 14, 2015, at 6:00 PM, Johnny Bridges wrote:
>
> Larry, mine did the same thing with the upper transmission line. I save the fitting though, and cut the line out of it. I cut the line about halfway
> across the radiator and used a compression splice to splice in a piece of copper line which I shaped to get to the cooler, and flared the old fitting
> onto it. So far, works fine. The radiator shop removed the oil lines at my request and tossed them, I got a set of J R Slaten's steel ones to
> replace them.
>
> --johnny
> --
> '76 23' transmode Norris upfit
> Braselton, Ga.
>
> "Sometimes I wonder what tomorrow's gonna bring when I think about my dirty life and times" --Warren Zevon
>
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line [message #284931 is a reply to message #284893] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 20:25 |
mrgmc3
Messages: 210
Registered: September 2013
Location: W Washington
Karma: 2
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ljdavick wrote on Fri, 14 August 2015 15:48I read the "easy way" on Gene's site, up and out the front, but my radiator just won't budge. I've taken everything loose but it does not want to go up. So, I'm on my way to buy a metal cutting blade for the GMC Tool so that I can modify the frame with hinges - as has been done before - and just drop it straight down.
I could not get my radiator to lift up and over the U-channel support either. The easy solution was just to unbolt the support and drop both the support and radiator straight down as an assembly, after removing hoses, cooler lines and the shroud. The support has either 2 or 3 bolts on each side. Be prepared as the assembly is heavy. I used a floor jack to lower the assembly down and lift it back up at re-install time.
Chris Geils - Twin Cities / W Wa
1978 26' Kingsley w/ very few mods; PD9040, aux trans cooler, one repaint in stock colors, R134a, Al rad, Alcoas, 54k mi
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| Re: [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line [message #284946 is a reply to message #284932] |
Sat, 15 August 2015 00:55 |
roy1
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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A 25 ft roll will leave you with around 6 ft extra when you run it up the driver side frame rail. Don't forget you will need flex lines to go from the transmission to the poly armour. You will also need to double flair the tubing rather then single flair. I just did my lines in 3/8" poly armor unfortunately the auxiliary cooler has 5/16" fittings on it. Bending the 3/8 poly armor is a bitch but doable
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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| Re: [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line [message #284967 is a reply to message #284893] |
Sat, 15 August 2015 09:59 |
Chris Tyler
Messages: 458
Registered: September 2013
Location: Odessa FL
Karma: 7
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One of the things Ive learned is any repair is a chance to upgrade...so heres your chance if you want to do the larger lines
However, the low buck/redneck engineering way: Cut the line clean behind the twist with a tubing cutter. Either replace the barb or make a similar cut on your remaining part. Wrap each in teflon tape. Obtain a segment of trans cooler line tp bridge and install with double clamps on each side
There are tens of thousands of vehicles with trans coolers mounted with something similar running around
76 Glenbrook
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| Re: [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line [message #284980 is a reply to message #284932] |
Sat, 15 August 2015 12:00 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Larry
Considering you are located in Fremont -- why not buy them pre bent from JimK -- $130 --
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/717
Dennis
ljdavick wrote on Fri, 14 August 2015 21:29Any guess how many feet of 3/8" Poly Armour I'd need to replace the lines? I suppose I could just shimmy my bulk under the coach and measure it...
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, CA
> On Aug 14, 2015, at 3:15 PM, John Wright wrote:
>
> Johnny,
> If you're going to replace the trans cooler lines get rid of the 5/16 inch lines and replace them with 3/8 inch lines. You will get a 30 to 40% increased flow to the cooler. I would also recommend an Aux trans oil cooler to provide extra cooling if you plan on towing.
[colo
r=blue]> [/color]
> JR Wright
> GMC Great Laker MHC
> GMC Eastern States
> GMCGL Tech Editor
> GMCMHI
> 78 GMC Buskirk 30' Stretch
> 1975 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
> Michigan
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Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line [message #285001 is a reply to message #284893] |
Sat, 15 August 2015 14:23 |
gbarrow2
Messages: 765
Registered: February 2004
Location: Lake Almanor, Ca./ Red Bl...
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Larry,
If you have everything disconnected you should be able to lift the radiator about 1 1/2 inches, move the bottom forward out of the radiator support frame and drop it out the bottom. I've removed it that way on 2 different coaches. Seems like the easiest way to me. don't even need to jack the coach up much.
Also, what Chris said about hoses and clamps rather than cutting and bending metal lines. My Palm Beach came to me that way more than 100,000 miles ago. No problems with that redneck solution.
Gene Barrow
Lake Almanor, Ca.
1976 Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line [message #285118 is a reply to message #285001] |
Sun, 16 August 2015 13:06 |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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Gene,
I really wanted to lift the radiator up and out. Much as I tried it would raise only the slightest bit and all bolts were removed from the top. Oh well, the bottom has been cut out and now it’s time to bolt on some hinges.
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, CA
> On Aug 15, 2015, at 12:23 PM, gene barrow wrote:
>
> Larry,
> If you have everything disconnected you should be able to lift the radiator about 1 1/2 inches, move the bottom forward out of the radiator support
> frame and drop it out the bottom. I've removed it that way on 2 different coaches. Seems like the easiest way to me. don't even need to jack the coach
> up much.
>
> Also, what Chris said about hoses and clamps rather than cutting and bending metal lines. My Palm Beach came to me that way more than 100,000 miles
> ago. No problems with that redneck solution.
> --
> Gene Barrow
> Lake Almanor, Ca.
> 1976 Palm Beach
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line [message #285164 is a reply to message #285118] |
Sun, 16 August 2015 20:59 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Here are pictures on how we did ours back in 1998.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3850-radiator-support-bracket-modification.html
JR Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMC Eastern States
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMCMHI
78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
1975 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
> On Aug 16, 2015, at 2:06 PM, Larry Davick wrote:
>
> Gene,
>
> I really wanted to lift the radiator up and out. Much as I tried it would raise only the slightest bit and all bolts were removed from the top. Oh well, the bottom has been cut out and now it’s time to bolt on some hinges.
>
> Larry Davick
> A Mystery Machine
> 1976(ish) Palm Beach
> Fremont, CA
>
>> On Aug 15, 2015, at 12:23 PM, gene barrow wrote:
>>
>> Larry,
>> If you have everything disconnected you should be able to lift the radiator about 1 1/2 inches, move the bottom forward out of the radiator support
>> frame and drop it out the bottom. I've removed it that way on 2 different coaches. Seems like the easiest way to me. don't even need to jack the coach
>> up much.
>>
>> Also, what Chris said about hoses and clamps rather than cutting and bending metal lines. My Palm Beach came to me that way more than 100,000 miles
>> ago. No problems with that redneck solution.
>> --
>> Gene Barrow
>> Lake Almanor, Ca.
>> 1976 Palm Beach
>
> _______________________________________________
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Removing Radiator - snapped transmission cooling line [message #285581 is a reply to message #285568] |
Sat, 22 August 2015 08:25 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Larry,
When we put the hinges in is was as the time that I spent my first $1000 on the coach in 1998. The story is when I was backing the coach up the driveway to it's parking spot at the house it was leaving a green stripe on the driveway. This was at picking up the coach from the PO. The way we did it, was that we centered a floor jack on the center bottom of the cage for support. We then cut the cage at the location shown in the pictures with a cutoff saw, being careful not to damage the side tanks of the radiator. The hinge was welded using the screw holes. The bolt was a 1/4inch bolt and the bolt, washer and nut that were SS and I would suggest that is better options than the hinge pin. As I remember it took a little under 2 hours to complete the addition including breaks. It is a slick modification everyone should consider as if you kept or keep your coach long enough chances are you will need to repair your radiator at some time in the future. I didn’t invent it, I saw it in one of the GMC publications I was reading at the time and I don’t remember which one.
JR Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMC Eastern States
GMCGL Tech Editor
GMCMHI
78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
1975 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
> On Aug 22, 2015, at 12:20 AM, Larry Davick wrote:
>
> JR,
>
> I just noticed that you replaced the hinge pin with a bolt. I like that. My hinges are set so that the hinge pin is facing forward because I thought with the new Howell Fuel Injection I might accelerate so fast the pins would pop out!
>
> I’ll certainly not have that problem with the brakes…
>
> Larry Davick
> A Mystery Machine
> 1976(ish) Palm Beach
> Fremont, CA
>
>> On Aug 16, 2015, at 6:59 PM, John Wright wrote:
>>
>> Here are pictures on how we did ours back in 1998.
>>
>> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3850-radiator-support-bracket-modification.html
>>
>> JR Wright
>> GMC Great Laker MHC
>> GMC Eastern States
>> GMCGL Tech Editor
>> GMCMHI
>> 78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
>> 1975 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
>> Michigan
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
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http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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