Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA
| [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284529] |
Mon, 10 August 2015 20:02  |
alavoisne
Messages: 17
Registered: July 2012
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Hi all,
I have a 75 Glenbrook.
I was coming home yesterday from a short trip. At around the same time,
maybe the exact same time, I am not really sure, the GEN dash light came on
and I lost all the 12v on the house side. Checking the engine side voltage
with engine running, I am not getting the 14v I should. Engine side
voltage was only 12v so it seems the alternator is fried. The alternator
is 2-3 years old.
I have a PDI DC converter and the green light was not on the controller and
no voltage at the outputs. Unplugging it then plugging it back in caused a
click in the generator compartment vicinity.
Coach side batteries are two 6v golf cart batteries about 5 years old.
They are weak but holding a charge at 6v each. The cells were nearly dry.
I added 16 oz distilled water to each of them.
The generator will fire up off the house batteries.
I am not sure where to look next. My suspicion is the boost solenoid, I
believe it is called, in the generator compartment. There are two wires at
the top of the solenoid. One goes up the side towards the taillight and
one goes to a place I cannot quite remember right now. But with these
connected, when I connect the positive to the house battery I get one heck
of an arch off the battery terminal. Like a dead short is going on.
I did not get any voltage reading on the top connector of the solenoid nor
on the small wire on the side when I pressed the battery boost gauge on the
dash.
I found some info on the electrical and the solenoid but nothing real
specific and nothing in the shop manual. Is there any good documentation
on what all the wires do?
Any ideas what might be going on?
Thanks,
Alan LaVoisne
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Alan LaVoisne
'75 Glenbrook
Ortonville, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284532 is a reply to message #284529] |
Mon, 10 August 2015 21:14  |
tphipps
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Go to bdub site, thumb through GMC Misc section and look at the wiring diagram. Should apply directly to your 75 model year. Caution that the P.O.s before you may have made modifications that might be hard to figure out.
I'm not quite following reference to battery boost switch on dash. The one that I am familiar with combine the engine battery and the house battery to start the engine. The combining solenoid is mounted on the firewall. Do you have something different?
Tom, MS II
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284533 is a reply to message #284529] |
Mon, 10 August 2015 21:31 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Alan,
The alternator light (without and APC) can glow if the alternator is working too hard.
That plus your large arc make me think that you may be looking at a short in the house electrics.
Quick Check:
At the isolator,
Disconnect the line to the house bank (usually on the boost contactor on the side away from the engine) and tape it up just to be paranoid.
Start the main engine and check the system voltage. Lets hope it is good. If it is, you still have an alternator.
When you power up the PD converter, the click you hear may be the self resetting circuit breaker in the house feed opening. That is a hokey puck with two terminals and it lives in the APU bay. I'm not just sure where, mine is under the hatch into the APU bay. Disconnect either terminal and try powering up the converter again.
Do you have house lights now? That means your problem is in the APU/house battery area.
I have to break off here because both my paper diagrams and the computer that has the other set are out in the coach.
I hope you have a wiring diagram, because you will need it.
If you don't have any luck finding the problem, look me up in the black list. I am an hour away, but that is not to far to drag myself and some test gear to find your problem. I'm not as good as KenB, but I am closer.
Matt
alavoisne wrote on Mon, 10 August 2015 21:02Hi all,
I have a 75 Glenbrook.
I was coming home yesterday from a short trip. At around the same time, maybe the exact same time, I am not really sure, the GEN dash light came on
and I lost all the 12v on the house side. Checking the engine side voltage with engine running, I am not getting the 14v I should. Engine side
voltage was only 12v so it seems the alternator is fried. The alternator is 2-3 years old.
I have a PDI DC converter and the green light was not on the controller and no voltage at the outputs. Unplugging it then plugging it back in caused a
click in the generator compartment vicinity.
Coach side batteries are two 6v golf cart batteries about 5 years old.
They are weak but holding a charge at 6v each. The cells were nearly dry.
I added 16 oz distilled water to each of them.
The generator will fire up off the house batteries.
I am not sure where to look next. My suspicion is the boost solenoid, I believe it is called, in the generator compartment. There are two wires at
the top of the solenoid. One goes up the side towards the taillight and one goes to a place I cannot quite remember right now. But with these
connected, when I connect the positive to the house battery I get one heck of an arch off the battery terminal. Like a dead short is going on.
I did not get any voltage reading on the top connector of the solenoid nor on the small wire on the side when I pressed the battery boost gauge on the
dash.
I found some info on the electrical and the solenoid but nothing real specific and nothing in the shop manual. Is there any good documentation
on what all the wires do?
Any ideas what might be going on?
Thanks,
Alan LaVoisne
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284554 is a reply to message #284529] |
Tue, 11 August 2015 09:16 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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You have the fortune of being very close to Cinnabar in Sandusky Mi if the coach needs sorting. Some avoid them as they don't really interact with other vendors, and are not inexpensive, but they are knowledgable and close and don't do bandaid type work. ' not as good as Matt but closer😀'
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284613 is a reply to message #284554] |
Tue, 11 August 2015 19:53 |
alavoisne
Messages: 17
Registered: July 2012
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Thanks for the replies. I have not had time to dig too much into this
since my post. Work is crazy so it might not be until Saturday.
Matt, I appreciate the offer to come by but I know it's a long drive. I
think I can sort this out with the tips from here, bdub, and other
resources.
John, I know Cinnabar is not popular. I have used them. You are right,
they are not inexpensive but I find the quality of their work is pretty
good and some of the guys there are willing to talk through options and
pros and cons of doing things.
We are going to the Michigan "thumb" in about 3 weeks so hoping to get this
resolved, but should I get in a time crunch I might exercise that option.
Thanks again everybody. I will post what I find when I find it.
On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 10:16 AM, John R. Lebetski
wrote:
> You have the fortune of being very close to Cinnabar in Sandusky Mi if the
> coach needs sorting. Some avoid them as they don't really interact with
> other vendors, and are not inexpensive, but they are knowledgable and
> close and don't do bandaid type work. ' not as good as Matt but closer😀'
> --
> John Lebetski
> Woodstock, IL
> 77 Eleganza II
> Source America First
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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Alan LaVoisne
'75 Glenbrook
Ortonville, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284852 is a reply to message #284613] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 09:17 |
alavoisne
Messages: 17
Registered: July 2012
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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It is looking like the wire that runs from the isolator to the house
batteries is damaged and grounding out.
Alternator got fried in the process..
What size wire is that? It looks like #6, but would like to confirm.
I suppose I have to pull the whole interior out to rerun that wire?
Thanks all.
On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 8:53 PM, Alan LaVoisne wrote:
> Thanks for the replies. I have not had time to dig too much into this
> since my post. Work is crazy so it might not be until Saturday.
>
> Matt, I appreciate the offer to come by but I know it's a long drive. I
> think I can sort this out with the tips from here, bdub, and other
> resources.
>
> John, I know Cinnabar is not popular. I have used them. You are right,
> they are not inexpensive but I find the quality of their work is pretty
> good and some of the guys there are willing to talk through options and
> pros and cons of doing things.
>
> We are going to the Michigan "thumb" in about 3 weeks so hoping to get
> this resolved, but should I get in a time crunch I might exercise that
> option.
>
> Thanks again everybody. I will post what I find when I find it.
>
> On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 10:16 AM, John R. Lebetski gransport7087@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> You have the fortune of being very close to Cinnabar in Sandusky Mi if
>> the coach needs sorting. Some avoid them as they don't really interact with
>> other vendors, and are not inexpensive, but they are knowledgable and
>> close and don't do bandaid type work. ' not as good as Matt but closer😀'
>> --
>> John Lebetski
>> Woodstock, IL
>> 77 Eleganza II
>> Source America First
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
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Alan LaVoisne
'75 Glenbrook
Ortonville, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284855 is a reply to message #284854] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 09:47 |
Alan LaVoisne
Messages: 51
Registered: September 2009
Location: Ortonville, MI
Karma: 0
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​Thanks. Curious what the recommended size is. I am thinking #6, but I
see 2/0 being used?​
On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 10:43 AM, Billy Massey wrote:
> Run another wire underneath the coach.
> Double insulate it in a waterhose.
>
> bdub
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: On Behalf Of Alan LaVoisne
> Sent: Friday, August 14, 2015 9:18 AM
>
> It is looking like the wire that runs from the isolator to the house
> batteries is damaged and grounding out.
> Alternator got fried in the process..
>
> What size wire is that? It looks like #6, but would like to confirm.
>
> I suppose I have to pull the whole interior out to rerun that wire?
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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1975 26' Glenbrook
Mostly Original
Ortonville, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284862 is a reply to message #284855] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 10:26 |
Bullitthead
Messages: 1411
Registered: November 2013
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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If you set it up to draw engine starting current from the house batteries via the boost switch, you MUST use the 2 gauge wire. Anything smaller than that will lose quite a bit of power over that distance with that much load if the engine battery is dead when you go for the boost. And the power will be lost in HEAT in the wire.
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284864 is a reply to message #284852] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 10:40 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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It may be too late but be sure you have an APC cable
On Friday, August 14, 2015, Alan LaVoisne wrote:
> It is looking like the wire that runs from the isolator to the house
> batteries is damaged and grounding out.
> Alternator got fried in the process..
>
> What size wire is that? It looks like #6, but would like to confirm.
>
> I suppose I have to pull the whole interior out to rerun that wire?
>
> Thanks all.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 8:53 PM, Alan LaVoisne > wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the replies. I have not had time to dig too much into this
>> since my post. Work is crazy so it might not be until Saturday.
>>
>> Matt, I appreciate the offer to come by but I know it's a long drive. I
>> think I can sort this out with the tips from here, bdub, and other
>> resources.
>>
>> John, I know Cinnabar is not popular. I have used them. You are right,
>> they are not inexpensive but I find the quality of their work is pretty
>> good and some of the guys there are willing to talk through options and
>> pros and cons of doing things.
>>
>> We are going to the Michigan "thumb" in about 3 weeks so hoping to get
>> this resolved, but should I get in a time crunch I might exercise that
>> option.
>>
>> Thanks again everybody. I will post what I find when I find it.
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 10:16 AM, John R. Lebetski > gransport7087@gmail.com > wrote:
>>
>>> You have the fortune of being very close to Cinnabar in Sandusky Mi if
>>> the coach needs sorting. Some avoid them as they don't really interact
> with
>>> other vendors, and are not inexpensive, but they are knowledgable and
>>> close and don't do bandaid type work. ' not as good as Matt but
> closer😀'
>>> --
>>> John Lebetski
>>> Woodstock, IL
>>> 77 Eleganza II
>>> Source America First
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284871 is a reply to message #284529] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 11:27 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Alan,
Having the "back to front" cable short to ground sure would do it.....
It is possible that the alternator is toast, but if it died like that, it probably didn't go alone. There is a better than even shot that the isolator is also gone. A good rebuild shop can tell you about the alternator real fast, but it probably fried the diodes before the armature (stationary windings) overheated. If that is the case, it only needs diodes. Any meter can tell you about the isolator once it is disconnected.
There is supposed to be a self resetting circuit breaker on each end of that cable to limit the damage if this happens but they eliminated the front one in the later coaches.
The real function of the boost switch in the "Battery Aft" coaches is only to provide enough surface charge to get things rolling. Even though it is called out a size 0SAE (93% of AWG 0 ) cable, you still can't crank the main engine from the house battery alone. There is no point in going heavier.
Now the trick is find the problem. This might be easier than you think. That cable runs exposed in the engine bay until it disappears into the port side wall. In the side, it is in the insulation and not as likely to get damaged.
Good luck guy. The offer of help still stands.
Matt - Working on the rear wheels these days
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284873 is a reply to message #284852] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 11:31 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Split-loom or blue "Smurf" tubing can also be used to insulate that new cable to the rear. That line is normally limited to 60 amps by a circuit breaker but in boost mode the CB is bypassed the current draw can be much higher. The wiring diagram shows that as a #1 gage (red) so I would suggest that you use #0 or larger if you are re-wiring.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284878 is a reply to message #284864] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 11:58 |
alavoisne
Messages: 17
Registered: July 2012
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Thanks all. I did not see the wire size but I will just go big.
On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 11:40 AM, gene Fisher wrote:
> It may be too late but be sure you have an APC cable
>
> On Friday, August 14, 2015, Alan LaVoisne wrote:
>
>> It is looking like the wire that runs from the isolator to the house
>> batteries is damaged and grounding out.
>> Alternator got fried in the process..
>>
>> What size wire is that? It looks like #6, but would like to confirm.
>>
>> I suppose I have to pull the whole interior out to rerun that wire?
>>
>> Thanks all.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 8:53 PM, Alan LaVoisne > > wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the replies. I have not had time to dig too much into this
>>> since my post. Work is crazy so it might not be until Saturday.
>>>
>>> Matt, I appreciate the offer to come by but I know it's a long drive.
> I
>>> think I can sort this out with the tips from here, bdub, and other
>>> resources.
>>>
>>> John, I know Cinnabar is not popular. I have used them. You are
> right,
>>> they are not inexpensive but I find the quality of their work is pretty
>>> good and some of the guys there are willing to talk through options and
>>> pros and cons of doing things.
>>>
>>> We are going to the Michigan "thumb" in about 3 weeks so hoping to get
>>> this resolved, but should I get in a time crunch I might exercise that
>>> option.
>>>
>>> Thanks again everybody. I will post what I find when I find it.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 11, 2015 at 10:16 AM, John R. Lebetski >> gransport7087@gmail.com > wrote:
>>>
>>>> You have the fortune of being very close to Cinnabar in Sandusky Mi if
>>>> the coach needs sorting. Some avoid them as they don't really
> interact
>> with
>>>> other vendors, and are not inexpensive, but they are knowledgable and
>>>> close and don't do bandaid type work. ' not as good as Matt but
>> closer😀'
>>>> --
>>>> John Lebetski
>>>> Woodstock, IL
>>>> 77 Eleganza II
>>>> Source America First
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
>
>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Alan LaVoisne
'75 Glenbrook
Ortonville, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284883 is a reply to message #284877] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 13:09 |
alavoisne
Messages: 17
Registered: July 2012
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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My Dad is doing the actual work right now. I have one of those annoying
jobs keeping me busy. Anyway he is not the best at electrical so until I
get in there, it is hard to tell for sure. What he did was disconnect that
wire at both ends. Still no power in the Coach. I am not sure if he has
the right wire but it seems that he does.
The Alternator is most certainly not working, he tested it with nothing
connected. It is on the way to a rebuild shop.
My thought is I don't need that wire, it just means the main engine is not
charging my house batteries. I should be able to get the 12v system
running on house side off the house batteries. I need to unhook and test
my DC converter too. I want to get the House 12v working then run a new
wire now or in the near future, if that is really the issue. All signs so
far say it is.
Thanks again. I appreciate all the feedback.
On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 12:54 PM, Mark wrote:
> I used some seriously well-insulated and very flexible 1/0 "monster amp
> cable" (generally used in cars with huge amplifiers driving multiple
> subwoofers - you know, the ones that make your rearview mirror vibrate).
> ;)
>
> The advantage of that stuff is that it's SO flexible it's not going to be
> as likely to get shorted to anything.
>
> Here's an example (probably too short for a front to back run, though)...
>
> http://www.amazon.com/nippon-pw025rd-Audiopipe-Pw025rd-Oxygen/dp/B00E4TER9I/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1439571022&sr=8-11&keywords=0+gauge+ca ble+copper
>
> I used a similar cable through my engine compartment, and around the
> suspension to the frame rails, and then connected it to 2/0 gauges much
> stiffer
> cable running down the frame rails past the bogies (since it won't move
> being lashed down to very solid frame rails).
> --
> Mark Hickey
> Mesa, AZ
> 1978 Royale Center Kitchen
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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Alan LaVoisne
'75 Glenbrook
Ortonville, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284889 is a reply to message #284883] |
Fri, 14 August 2015 14:48 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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alavoisne wrote on Fri, 14 August 2015 13:09My
My thought is I don't need that wire, it just means the main engine is not
charging my house batteries. I should be able to get the 12v system
running on house side off the house batteries. I need to unhook and test
my DC converter too. I want to get the House 12v working then run a new
wire now or in the near future, if that is really the issue. All signs so
far say it is.
Depending on the year of the coach, That wire does not go direct from front to back. It makes a stop along the way at the house side fuse box in the rear cabinet and provides power to the entire house side accessories. If you disconnect both ends then you will have no power to the house side 12 volt fuse box and accessories The terminal bloc for that cable in located in the rear cabinet behind the buzz box on the wall of the coach.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284995 is a reply to message #284889] |
Sat, 15 August 2015 14:01 |
Alan LaVoisne
Messages: 51
Registered: September 2009
Location: Ortonville, MI
Karma: 0
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Member |
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Thanks for the tip on the connection point midway. I had forgotten about
that.
So I narrowed it down to the wire that goes from that midpoint connector to
front solenoid.
When I pulled the wire out from under the hood, the shielding disintegrated
in my hands. It looks like the heat dried it out. The shielding is shot
all the way to where it enters the body. I disconnected that wire from the
midpoint connector and hooked everything else up. 12v power is back in the
coach!
So my next step is to run a new wire down the frame to the generator
compartment. I like the idea of putting it in a water hose so I am going
to try and do that.
Any good places to get wire in SE Michigan? Like in Northern Oakland
county perhaps?
On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 3:48 PM, Ken Burton wrote:
> alavoisne wrote on Fri, 14 August 2015 13:09
>> My
>>
>> My thought is I don't need that wire, it just means the main engine is
> not
>> charging my house batteries. I should be able to get the 12v system
>> running on house side off the house batteries. I need to unhook and test
>> my DC converter too. I want to get the House 12v working then run a new
>> wire now or in the near future, if that is really the issue. All signs
> so
>> far say it is.
>
> Depending on the year of the coach, That wire does not go direct from
> front to back. It makes a stop along the way at the house side fuse box in
> the
> rear cabinet and provides power to the entire house side accessories. If
> you disconnect both ends then you will have no power to the house side 12
> volt fuse box and accessories The terminal bloc for that cable in
> located in the rear cabinet behind the buzz box on the wall of the coach.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
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1975 26' Glenbrook
Mostly Original
Ortonville, MI
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| Re: [GMCnet] House 12v system DOA [message #284996 is a reply to message #284889] |
Sat, 15 August 2015 14:02 |
alavoisne
Messages: 17
Registered: July 2012
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Thanks for the tip on the connection point midway. I had forgotten about
that.
So I narrowed it down to the wire that goes from that midpoint connector to
front solenoid.
When I pulled the wire out from under the hood, the shielding disintegrated
in my hands. It looks like the heat dried it out. The shielding is shot
all the way to where it enters the body. I disconnected that wire from the
midpoint connector and hooked everything else up. 12v power is back in the
coach!
So my next step is to run a new wire down the frame to the generator
compartment. I like the idea of putting it in a water hose so I am going
to try and do that.
Any good places to get wire in SE Michigan? Like in Northern Oakland
county perhaps?
On Fri, Aug 14, 2015 at 3:48 PM, Ken Burton wrote:
> alavoisne wrote on Fri, 14 August 2015 13:09
>> My
>>
>> My thought is I don't need that wire, it just means the main engine is
> not
>> charging my house batteries. I should be able to get the 12v system
>> running on house side off the house batteries. I need to unhook and test
>> my DC converter too. I want to get the House 12v working then run a new
>> wire now or in the near future, if that is really the issue. All signs
> so
>> far say it is.
>
> Depending on the year of the coach, That wire does not go direct from
> front to back. It makes a stop along the way at the house side fuse box in
> the
> rear cabinet and provides power to the entire house side accessories. If
> you disconnect both ends then you will have no power to the house side 12
> volt fuse box and accessories The terminal bloc for that cable in
> located in the rear cabinet behind the buzz box on the wall of the coach.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Alan LaVoisne
'75 Glenbrook
Ortonville, MI
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