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| Re: [GMCnet] Foam removal - PITA - Do I do things wrong [message #283921 is a reply to message #283916] |
Tue, 04 August 2015 10:51   |
77Royale
Messages: 461
Registered: June 2014
Location: Mid Michigan
Karma: 6
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I used one of these on my cordless drill.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Pro-Grade-4-in-Coarse-Paint-and-Rust-Stripper-7771-PG/202940537
I also wore a dust mask with a filter, and duct taped my shop vac to the end of the drill with the crevice attachment on the hose. So when the drill was moving 95% of the little particles were sucked right into the shop vac. Done. Overall very little mess to clean up.
That course wheel will shave off the foam pretty much instantly and you will still have some control to not go too far. But it looks like your removing it all the way. I indicated in another post that I only smoothed out the high spots in the spray foam. Enough to slip a 1/2 inch Rmax board into place and make it all uniform for the FRP to snug up against it.
Some benefits, That wheel will not chew through buried wires instantly, giving you some time to stop the drill. The foam does not readily stick to the wheel and can be vacuumed/knocked clean. 8 bucks, and some strong arms for the overhead work was all it took.
77 Royale, Rear Dry Bath. 403, 3.55 Final Drive, Lenzi goodies, Patterson carb and dizzy.
Mid Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Foam removal - PITA - Do I do things wrong [message #283941 is a reply to message #283938] |
Tue, 04 August 2015 12:28 |
A Hamilto
Messages: 4508
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 39
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Jp Benson wrote on Tue, 04 August 2015 11:58Wow that looks nice and clean. Only about 15 more hours to finish the ceiling. I did the partial removal and added 1/2" or 3/4" RMax as needed. The HF multi-function tool worked for me but I did have to repair it once. The circular blade (with the kerf ground off the teeth - less dust) worked best and gave the most control. Great Stuff did a nice job of bonding the RMax to the old foam.
JP Peer,
Heed what JP just said.
You don't need to drive 200 miles to pay $20 for an oscillating tool, you can get one from a nearby big box store for $70 and up for cordless and $100 for corded. For the amount of time it is going to be running, you want corded.
If it is going to take 20 hours to do it by hand, or 8 to use a power tool, you can decide if you want to spend the money.
And remember:
1. The spray foam that is there adds rigidity to the roof, removing it reduces that rigidity.
2. The rigid sheets cost about $10 more per half inch of thickness that you buy. I.E., if you buy half inch thick sheets they are around $10 each, one inch is about $20 per sheet and two layers of 3/4" will be about $30. Every half inch you remove is another $50 in material you have to buy for the project to replace it. If you put half an inch on the whole ceiling, it will cost around $50 for 5 sheets. 3/4" would be about $75 for 5 sheets. An inch for the whole ceiling will run $100 for 5 sheets. An inch and a half will cost about $150 for 10 sheets of 3/4".
Do what brings you the most joy.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Foam removal - PITA - Do I do things wrong [message #283943 is a reply to message #283941] |
Tue, 04 August 2015 12:44 |
appie
Messages: 902
Registered: April 2013
Location: denmark
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Used a old chissel, worked fine
Appie
eleganza 76 "Olga" now sadly sold
6 wheel discbrake
Quadrabags
Springfield stage 2 462 olds
Manny tranny
( pictures at http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6489-olga.html
Fulltiming in Europe july 2014 til july 2016
Denmark
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| Re: [GMCnet] Foam removal - PITA - Do I do things wrong [message #283947 is a reply to message #283945] |
Tue, 04 August 2015 15:04 |
Olly Schmidt
Messages: 1265
Registered: February 2014
Location: Germany and Scottsville, ...
Karma: 8
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Senior Member |
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I can't seem to find anything better than R4 or R5 locally.
And I might have found the way that works best for me. The middle
rectangle with the fan took 20 minutes. This was using a combination of
brute force with the hammer pictured in my first photo, and the
oscillating thingie I bought. Still dirty as heck, but I'll get at least
the first 4x8 section cleaned today. Still have 8 hours left after all,
and am more than halfway done :D
--
Best regards
Peer Oliver Schmidt
the internet company
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA
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Olly Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x18a9 3a1f 4196 bf22
'76a Eleganza II, VA
'73 Sequoia, SH, Germany
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| Re: [GMCnet] Foam removal - PITA - Do I do things wrong [message #283949 is a reply to message #283944] |
Tue, 04 August 2015 15:19 |
Jim Miller
Messages: 501
Registered: March 2008
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Peer,
I disagree with the admonitions to try and leave in part of the old foam and “just shave it” enough to fit another board on top - with gaps filled in by some sort of messy and sticky spray foam. Going direct to metal not only will take LESS time than the “shave” method but also will let you achieve complete coverage with uniform thickness of insulation. If the new boards are cut properly then you will need no adhesives - only foil tape as shown in my gallery. The trick is to cut the new board to size, use a utility knife to slice down the center of it so as to form a hinge out of the foil on one side - then break the board (while keeping the “hinge” intact) and then fold it up into place between the ceiling rails so that the ends of the board wedge snugly against the rails. Do the same for the board underneath it and then heal the cut part of the hinge with foil tape. Using two boards of the proper thickness will perfectly fill the gap and the boards will be captive above the lips of the rails.
Using the oscillating “GMC TOOL” set at the proper speed and with the proper blade (2.5cm wide with saw teeth on the end) will let you remove the old foam and go completely to the metal in very short order once you develop the technique. Look at picture #6 in the gallery to see how I’ve started a small area from which I will then work outward. Start in that area and use the blade of the GMC tool to slice in between the metal and the foam - you can plunge the entire depth of the blade - then move over a blade width and plunge again - and once you’ve done this all the way around the starting opening you can use the springiness of the blade to pop out significant pieces of foam all at once.
You’ve seen my photo gallery and how cleanly the old foam can be removed using this method. What you saw in those pictures took only a couple evenings of effort and was easy to clean up since the old foam was mostly removed in large chunks rather than as dust or shavings.
http://www.jcmco.com/gallery/album01
--Jim "saving the lives of Onans...one unit at a time" Miller
1977 Eleganza II
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
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Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza II
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
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| Re: [GMCnet] Foam removal - PITA - Do I do things wrong [message #283952 is a reply to message #283951] |
Tue, 04 August 2015 16:12 |
Olly Schmidt
Messages: 1265
Registered: February 2014
Location: Germany and Scottsville, ...
Karma: 8
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Senior Member |
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> Peer Oliver Schmidt wrote on Tue, 04 August 2015 15:04
>> I can't seem to find anything better than R4 or R5 locally. ...
> If its pink, it is probably expanded polystyrene or EPS. EPS will absorb water. polyisocyanurate will not. Avoid EPS if you can.
>
> Where are you in VA? I will surf the interweb and find the nearest source of rigid foil faced poly.
I am in Farmville, seems to the center of nothing...
I gladly accept your offer for finding something for me. :)
--
Best regards
Peer Oliver Schmidt
the internet company
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA
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Best regards
Olly Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x18a9 3a1f 4196 bf22
'76a Eleganza II, VA
'73 Sequoia, SH, Germany
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| Re: [GMCnet] Foam removal - PITA - Do I do things wrong [message #283961 is a reply to message #283958] |
Tue, 04 August 2015 16:50 |
Olly Schmidt
Messages: 1265
Registered: February 2014
Location: Germany and Scottsville, ...
Karma: 8
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Senior Member |
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Am 04.08.2015 um 17:37 schrieb A.:
> Peer Oliver Schmidt wrote on Tue, 04 August 2015 16:12
>> I am in Farmville, seems to the center of nothing...
>>
>> I gladly accept your offer for finding something for me. :)
>>
>> --
>> Best regards
>>
>> Peer Oliver Schmidt
> Lowes doesn't seem to have anything but EPS anywhere in VA. Home Depot everywhere in a 50 mile radius seems to have GAF brand in only 1/2" thickness
> at a little less than $12 per sheet. It would take three layers to fill 1-1/2".
>
> That's the only polyiso I can find anywhere around Farmville. Which side are you on (N, S, E W) so I can find the closest store. All are probably
> going to be close to 45 miles one way.
Near the Executive Inn.
So this
http://www.lowes.com/pd_304087-210-304087.0_1z11pq2__?productId=3122443&pl=1
is not what I want, even though it says it does not absorb moisture?
--
Best regards
Peer Oliver Schmidt
the internet company
PGP Key ID: 0x83E1C2EA
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Best regards
Olly Schmidt
PGP Key ID: 0x18a9 3a1f 4196 bf22
'76a Eleganza II, VA
'73 Sequoia, SH, Germany
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