| [GMCnet] Onan - No 110 [message #282650] |
Mon, 20 July 2015 18:33  |
glwgmc
Messages: 1014
Registered: June 2004
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Hi Carl,
Those backing plates are thin so little thread and easy to strip. Stock, the bolts do go into threaded holes. The easy way to remove the front cover is to put a floor jack under the forward side and raise it just enough to center the lower left bolts as you remove them. Then let the front cover down and remove the bolts on the upper right. Once all the bolts are removed allow the front cover to rotate down on the lock lever. From that position the front cover can slide off the lock lever. Put it back on the same way but you will likely need to grip the upper ball bearing drawer slide support with a large adjustable wrench and lever it up to get the right upper bolts to line up. Wiggle around until you do get them lined up, started and fully seated to avoid stripping out the threads in the backing plate. If your are already stripped, just over drill them and rethread with the next larger size bolts. No need to fiddle with those nuts on either side. Once the right side is bolted in place, use the jack to raise the lower left until those bolt holes line up. Once you have done it once or twice it only takes a few minutes. The flywheel cover comes off with four bolts. The only one that can be an issue is the one behind the exhaust pipe on the left side. If that is in the way, remove the two bolts that hold the pipe to the manifold and swing it out of the way to access the flywheel cover bolt.
Make sure you glued the magnet in the proper way up as the module will not fire if the magnet is glued in upside down. Make sure the module mount is grounded and that you put the ground wire under the rear most mounting bolt after removing the paint. If that ground is missing or intermittent, the module will not fire reliably. Unless the module is bad (I had one that was) there is little that can go wrong with this simple installation. Gary’s instructions are very good when followed to the letter. (hint, hint and grin)
Jerry
Jerry
Jerry & Sharon Work
Kerby, OR
glwork@mac.com
http://jerrywork.com
78 Royale with most everything done to modernize a GMC mechanically
77/94 Clasco bone stock and looks like it just left the Clasco facility
Both drive equally as well.
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2015 12:01:55 -0600
From: Carl Stouffer
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan - No 110
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
I spoke to Gary on the phone this morning and he told me where to start on diagnosing the problem. I will check the module this evening using the
nine volt battery instructions that came with the kit. If this is not a simple fix, I will most likely wait to fix this until after our upcoming
trip. Gary was very helpful.
In talking to Gary, I mentioned how difficult it is to replace the front cover as the back sides of the six bolts that hold it on are hard to get to
to install the washers, lock washers, and nuts. He mentioned that this is the first time he has heard of an Onan with nuts on the backs of those
bolts. This makes me wonder if the PO did something screwy (pardon the pun) and either lost the original bolts, or stripped out the tapped holes
behind the cover plate. The bolts that are in there are 1/4" bolts (7/16" head) and have nuts on the back side in a very inaccessible location. I'm
wondering if those bolts SHOULD be 5/16" (1/2" head) that thread directly into the slide brackets behind the face. Can someone shed a little light on
this please?
Thanks,
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ
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Jerry & Sharon Work
78 Royale
Kerby, OR
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| Re: [GMCnet] Onan - No 110 [message #282662 is a reply to message #282650] |
Mon, 20 July 2015 20:56  |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Jerry,
The reason I asked the question about the cover bolts is that after talking to Gary, he said he had never seen one with nuts and washers on the inside. Having no other point of reference, I just figured mine was normal. I should have realized it wasn't on account of it being an incredible pain in the neck to get those nuts, lock washers, and flat washers on behind there. When we get back from our trip, I will drill and tap the holes for 5/16" screws. That will make it much easier to work on in the future. I have had the front off before and it hasn't ever been a pleasant experience. Thanks to this, the generator will be easier to work on from then on.
With Gary's help, I ran through some of the diagnostics and have determined that one of the three main issues is at fault:
1. I fried the module (most likely)
2. The magnet came off (VERY unlikely since I JB welded the heck out of it and waited a full 20 hrs before messing with it again)
3. The module to magnet clearance went out of spec. (Possible but unlikely as I double checked it a number of times)
I can't explain why the generator would not fire off right away with the Pertronix installed. Possible operator error, I guess. I DID follow the directions very carefully and double checked everything along the way, and only made the mistake of switching the leads after the initial attempts at starting. I may be on the hook for a new module due to my dumb mistake.
Anyway, I'll take it up again in a few weeks.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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