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| Re: [GMCnet] Need a good procedure to clean the inside of engine oil cooler. [message #279905 is a reply to message #279900] |
Sun, 14 June 2015 19:57   |
Kingsley Coach
Messages: 2691
Registered: March 2009
Location: Nova Scotia Canada
Karma: -34
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Senior Member |
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I blew out a VW engine on the road one time and all I could find was a
short block so the oil cooler had to be reused. I used 3 cans of brake
cleaner and compressed air to attempt to flush it out from a dropped valve
that went through the #3 piston. This was followed by a couple of cans of
WD-40 and more air. I never did see any particles.
I reassembled and drove that engine for another 20,000 miles ....
Just because it worked for me doesn't mean it will for everyone...but it
might !
Mike in NS
On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 8:43 PM, Kerry Pinkerton
wrote:
> Any parts place has cans of transmission cooler spray. I put two through
> mine after my tranny got sick. I'm not sure I'd trust the oil cooler with
> the same treatment but that is just my opinion. I added an aftermarket
> fan forced cooler for the engine oil.
> --
> Kerry Pinkerton
>
> North Alabama
>
> 77 Eleganza II, 403CI, Manny Brakes, 1 ton, tranny, lots of aluminum
> goodies.
>
> 77 Kingsley by Buskirk. Rear twins/dry bath, EFI Caddy.
>
> Also a 76 Eleganza to be re-bodied as an Art Deco car hauler
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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>
--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS
Life is too short to hold a grudge; slash some tires and call it even !
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| Re: [GMCnet] Need a good procedure to clean the inside of engineoil cooler. [message #279926 is a reply to message #279924] |
Mon, 15 June 2015 00:43 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Bob,
Here's a link to a photo album that shows the oil flow path of a 455 and 403:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6398-455-2f-403-engine-oil-flow-path.html
I don't know how the oil cooler hoses are made, if you are worried about them "delaminating" I'd just have new ones made. Here in
Sydney we have a company caller Pirtek and I can bring them a set of lines that need new rubber and they replace just the rubber and
use the old ends.
I will do my best to get down to the workshop and cut open the engine and transmission coolers to see how they are made and we can
figger out the best way to clean them.
Regards,
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Dunahugh
OK. This is my thought. There are 2 concern. 1 I'm concerned that the oil that's still in the cooler, and attached lines. Have
bearing, and crankshaft material within. But that oil should have gone thrue the oil filter first. Unless the oil filter bypass
valve was bypassing some of the oil at that time. I need to take the oil filter housing apart to know how it's plumbed. Or does
someone know? I'm going to play it safe. It will be flushed some how. Concern #2. It is vary clear that this engine wasn't getting a
full flow of oil over a period of time. I don't believe it was a sudden drop in oil supply. I'm thinking that maybe the inter liner
of the hoses to, and from the cooler may have come loose. And is blocking full flow of oil to the bearings. First use air to get
the oil out. I think the cooler line in the radiator is a straight tube. Attach a garden hose to one of the cooler lines. Turn the
water on. And see if you have good flow. You need a fluid. And lots of it.
Not just air. This will answer the restriction question. Then go back to air to remove the water. Then attach a hose to one of the
cooler lines. Hold it up high. Pour a solvent in the hose with a funnel to the point that solvent come out the other cooler line
that you have raised as high as possible. let the solvent soak a bit. Then back to the air to remove the solvent. Can anyone shot
holes in this idea?
Bob Dunahugh
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Need a good procedure to clean the inside of engineoil cooler. [message #279936 is a reply to message #279928] |
Mon, 15 June 2015 08:20 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Chuck,
Good write up.
Spring in the bypass is set at 6 psi; I'll bet dollars to donuts that on cold mornings in Knoxville it will open when you crank over
your Crestmont! Considering that the oil has to travel (lets say) four feet out to the oil cooler and (lets say) another 4 feet back
I'll bet the pressure drop for that trip is more than 6 psi.
The good news is the way the oil supply system is designed assures oil being fed to the bearings even on the coldest days!
I agree with you that plugging will force all the oil through the filter but on cold days since there is no bypass the engine could
starve for oil when first started on a cold day.
Sorry to hear of your bad luck on the newly rebuilt engine.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Boyd
Hi Bob, the oil goes from the pump to the oil filter housing where the bypass is located. When oil is cold or pressure is greater
than the spring in the bypass the oil goes straight (bypassed) to the crank without going to the cooler first then to the filter
then to the crankshaft. Some racing engine builders take the bypass valve out, pipe tap and plug it. This guarantees that all oil
goes thru the filter. Drawback is if the oil filter gets dirty enough it can stop flow of oil to engine if no bypass. If the oil
is contaminated it goes to the cooler (and back to the crank thru the bypass) before it gets to the oil filter. As for cleaning the
oil cooler in the radiator, I use a reputable radiator shop with experience. I have a fresh built engine that lost oil pressure on
initial run in. :cry: I need to modify my engine hoist before I pull it again.. I am hoping to find a crack in the block in an
oil passage that opens when the engine heats up. No one I have asked has never heard of an Olds motor doing this but seems it is
common for a big Chevy. The machine shop I used found both heads cracked, but I suspect they did not magnafluxe the block? Please
keep us informed of your findings.
C. Boyd
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Need a good procedure to clean the inside of engine oil cooler. [message #279943 is a reply to message #279895] |
Mon, 15 June 2015 11:39 |
Gadabout
Messages: 124
Registered: March 2013
Location: Edmonton
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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We go though this all the time with the race cars.
1. Remove all of the oil lines from the engine to the rad.
2. Install a hose connector on the rad engine oil connectors and flush with solvent
3. Repeat step 2 in the reverse direction
4. Blow out with air
Now flush and reverse flush the oil lines, Blow out.
This should out any debris from the old engine that became trapped in the lines or cooler.
We also run a second , in - line oil filter on the return line from the cooler. Not really required but a bit of insurance. You could run it for a few hundred miles then remove it, when you do your first oil change.
http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?prod=81-1002
Good luck with the project.
Carl Harr : Driver NASCAR Pro Series #2
1978 Gadabout-Restoring
1978 Palm Beach
1976 Glenbrook
Prevost Featherlite H3-45
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| Re: [GMCnet] Need a good procedure to clean the inside of engine oil cooler. [message #279949 is a reply to message #279943] |
Mon, 15 June 2015 12:47 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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I have watched my mechanic friend flush AC systems several times. What he does is to flush the system with solvent, and recover it as it comes out of the system. He then pours the recovered solvent through a paint strainer or a coffee filter and observes the amount of debris in the filter. He repeats this procedure several times, using a fresh filter each time, until the filter comes out clean. He then flushes it with fresh solvent, a few more times. I would expect this to work with an oil cooler just as well.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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I need to modify my engine hoist before I pull it again.. I am hoping to find a crack in the block in an oil passage that opens when the engine heats up. No one I have asked has never heard of an Olds motor doing this but seems it is common for a big Chevy. The machine shop I used found both heads cracked, but I suspect they did not magnafluxe the block? Please keep us informed of your findings.