Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak.
| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #276948] |
Tue, 28 April 2015 23:13  |
BobDunahugh
Messages: 2465
Registered: October 2010
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Karma: 11
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Jim K's copper gaskets to me is wourth every copper penny they cost. Get the manifolds surfaced for a great seal. For me it's been the problem of getting the bolts out without breaking them off. I've tried all the tricks. And still always break at least one on each side. The exhaust pipe bolt have never been a problem. As I get the manifold red hot it the area of the bolts. I put lubed the bolts as I put them back in. I'm thinking of pulling the bolts out. And installing studs with nutes. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale, and too many COPO Yenko's
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277265 is a reply to message #276948] |
Mon, 04 May 2015 16:04  |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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I replaced the exhaust manifold bolts with studs when I installed the
Cad500. I also used brass nuts, thinking they'd be less likely to freeze
up. Well, yes & no: the brass nuts don't freeze up, but they do loosen up
by deforming on the manifold side -- just tooo hot, I guess. They even
flow into the excess space between the stud and the washer. Knowing
there'd likely be some of that, I double-nutted them, but that doesn't help
with the loosening of the clamping force. And it makes the assembly too
much more difficult. There's also a little ablation of the external
surfaces, making the flats a little undersized.
I haven't yet, but will replace the brass nuts with steel ones when they're
apart again. At least the studs position the penetrant-needing threads out
where they're readily soakable.
Ken H.
On Wed, Apr 29, 2015 at 12:13 AM, Bob Dunahugh wrote:
>
>
>
> Jim K's copper gaskets to me is wourth every copper penny they cost.
> Get the manifolds surfaced for a great seal. For me it's been the problem
> of getting the bolts out without breaking them off. I've tried all the
> tricks. And still always break at least one on each side. The exhaust pipe
> bolt have never been a problem. As I get the manifold red hot it the area
> of the bolts. I put lubed the bolts as I put them back in. I'm thinking of
> pulling the bolts out. And installing studs with nutes. Bob Dunahugh 78
> Royale, and too many COPO Yenko's
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277267 is a reply to message #277265] |
Mon, 04 May 2015 17:49 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Only advantage I know for brass nuts is that they split easier than heat
affected carbon steel ones do. I always thought they went on monkeys. (Grin)
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon (it never gets that cold here)
On May 4, 2015 2:05 PM, "Ken Henderson" wrote:
> I replaced the exhaust manifold bolts with studs when I installed the
> Cad500. I also used brass nuts, thinking they'd be less likely to freeze
> up. Well, yes & no: the brass nuts don't freeze up, but they do loosen up
> by deforming on the manifold side -- just tooo hot, I guess. They even
> flow into the excess space between the stud and the washer. Knowing
> there'd likely be some of that, I double-nutted them, but that doesn't help
> with the loosening of the clamping force. And it makes the assembly too
> much more difficult. There's also a little ablation of the external
> surfaces, making the flats a little undersized.
>
> I haven't yet, but will replace the brass nuts with steel ones when they're
> apart again. At least the studs position the penetrant-needing threads out
> where they're readily soakable.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 29, 2015 at 12:13 AM, Bob Dunahugh
> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim K's copper gaskets to me is wourth every copper penny they cost.
>> Get the manifolds surfaced for a great seal. For me it's been the problem
>> of getting the bolts out without breaking them off. I've tried all the
>> tricks. And still always break at least one on each side. The exhaust
> pipe
>> bolt have never been a problem. As I get the manifold red hot it the area
>> of the bolts. I put lubed the bolts as I put them back in. I'm thinking
> of
>> pulling the bolts out. And installing studs with nutes. Bob Dunahugh
> 78
>> Royale, and too many COPO Yenko's
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277268 is a reply to message #277265] |
Mon, 04 May 2015 18:19 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Ken,
IMO the design of the Caddy exhaust manifold and its attachment points leaves the Olds manifold for dead. There is one mounting
point on either side of each port which IMO is ideal. The center port on the Olds heads with one bolt doesn't make sense to me;
however, I'm not an engine designer.
I like the idea of replacing the exhaust manifold bolts with studs and I'll follow your lead when I build the Caddy 500 I have here
in Sydney. Where did you get the studs? What was the OD / TPI / Length of the studs? You've noted you'll replace the brass nuts with
steel nuts, why not stainless steel nuts?
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Henderson
I replaced the exhaust manifold bolts with studs when I installed the
Cad500. I also used brass nuts, thinking they'd be less likely to freeze
up. Well, yes & no: the brass nuts don't freeze up, but they do loosen up
by deforming on the manifold side -- just tooo hot, I guess. They even
flow into the excess space between the stud and the washer. Knowing
there'd likely be some of that, I double-nutted them, but that doesn't help
with the loosening of the clamping force. And it makes the assembly too
much more difficult. There's also a little ablation of the external
surfaces, making the flats a little undersized.
I haven't yet, but will replace the brass nuts with steel ones when they're
apart again. At least the studs position the penetrant-needing threads out
where they're readily soakable.
Ken H.
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277273 is a reply to message #277268] |
Mon, 04 May 2015 18:49 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Rob,
I agree with you about the bolt arrangement on the Cad vs the Olds; the
latter makes no sense at all to me either. I think this is the
McMaster-Carr PN I used:
99065A130
. A medium strength, high temperature steel. 3/8"-16 x 3' (for shipping
economy). I don't remember how long I cut them but with 16 of them, even
3" long
required two rods.
Pulling that number, I noticed that they now offer similar strength rods
with PTFE
coating. That might be worth considering. Certainly less likely to sieze
than SS,
which I will NOT be using for that reason.
Ken H.
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 7:19 PM, Rob Mueller wrote:
> Ken,
>
> IMO the design of the Caddy exhaust manifold and its attachment points
> leaves the Olds manifold for dead. There is one mounting
> point on either side of each port which IMO is ideal. The center port on
> the Olds heads with one bolt doesn't make sense to me;
> however, I'm not an engine designer.
>
> I like the idea of replacing the exhaust manifold bolts with studs and
> I'll follow your lead when I build the Caddy 500 I have here
> in Sydney. Where did you get the studs? What was the OD / TPI / Length of
> the studs? You've noted you'll replace the brass nuts with
> steel nuts, why not stainless steel nuts?
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Henderson
>
> I replaced the exhaust manifold bolts with studs when I installed the
> Cad500. I also used brass nuts, thinking they'd be less likely to freeze
> up. Well, yes & no: the brass nuts don't freeze up, but they do loosen up
> by deforming on the manifold side -- just tooo hot, I guess. They even
> flow into the excess space between the stud and the washer. Knowing
> there'd likely be some of that, I double-nutted them, but that doesn't help
> with the loosening of the clamping force. And it makes the assembly too
> much more difficult. There's also a little ablation of the external
> surfaces, making the flats a little undersized.
>
> I haven't yet, but will replace the brass nuts with steel ones when they're
> apart again. At least the studs position the penetrant-needing threads out
> where they're readily soakable.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277287 is a reply to message #277273] |
Mon, 04 May 2015 21:28 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
I have usotteded a special washer that has a semi slotted surface on each
side so it is not effected by heat and bites on both the surfaces.
It is something we used on our Air filter Blower projects.
I don't have the name now, but I'll get it to you when I find it.
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 4:49 PM, Ken Henderson
wrote:
> Rob,
>
> I agree with you about the bolt arrangement on the Cad vs the Olds; the
> latter makes no sense at all to me either. I think this is the
> McMaster-Carr PN I used:
> 99065A130
> . A medium strength, high temperature steel. 3/8"-16 x 3' (for shipping
> economy). I don't remember how long I cut them but with 16 of them, even
> 3" long
> required two rods.
>
> Pulling that number, I noticed that they now offer similar strength rods
> with PTFE
> coating. That might be worth considering. Certainly less likely to sieze
> than SS,
> which I will NOT be using for that reason.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 7:19 PM, Rob Mueller
> wrote:
>
>> Ken,
>>
>> IMO the design of the Caddy exhaust manifold and its attachment points
>> leaves the Olds manifold for dead. There is one mounting
>> point on either side of each port which IMO is ideal. The center port on
>> the Olds heads with one bolt doesn't make sense to me;
>> however, I'm not an engine designer.
>>
>> I like the idea of replacing the exhaust manifold bolts with studs and
>> I'll follow your lead when I build the Caddy 500 I have here
>> in Sydney. Where did you get the studs? What was the OD / TPI / Length of
>> the studs? You've noted you'll replace the brass nuts with
>> steel nuts, why not stainless steel nuts?
>>
>> Regards,
>> Rob M.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Ken Henderson
>>
>> I replaced the exhaust manifold bolts with studs when I installed the
>> Cad500. I also used brass nuts, thinking they'd be less likely to freeze
>> up. Well, yes & no: the brass nuts don't freeze up, but they do loosen
> up
>> by deforming on the manifold side -- just tooo hot, I guess. They even
>> flow into the excess space between the stud and the washer. Knowing
>> there'd likely be some of that, I double-nutted them, but that doesn't
> help
>> with the loosening of the clamping force. And it makes the assembly too
>> much more difficult. There's also a little ablation of the external
>> surfaces, making the flats a little undersized.
>>
>> I haven't yet, but will replace the brass nuts with steel ones when
> they're
>> apart again. At least the studs position the penetrant-needing threads
> out
>> where they're readily soakable.
>>
>> Ken H.
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277290 is a reply to message #277273] |
Mon, 04 May 2015 21:41 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
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Ken,
Thanks for the info, I'll place an order.
I was not considering SS studs AND SS nuts; I was thinking carbon steel studs and SS nuts.
I have suffered instances of SS nuts seizing on SS bolts and I use anti-seize lubricant when I use them. I don't know if coating the studs / nuts with anti-seize will help in this instance due to the high temperature they are exposed to.
Also I can't remember if SS nuts have a tendency to seize on carbon steel bolts - anybody have experience with that?
PTFE sounds interesting; anybody got any idea if PTFE will last in this installation when exposed to the high temperatures?
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Henderson
Rob,
I agree with you about the bolt arrangement on the Cad vs the Olds; the
latter makes no sense at all to me either. I think this is the
McMaster-Carr PN I used: 99065A130
A medium strength, high temperature steel. 3/8"-16 x 3' (for shipping
economy). I don't remember how long I cut them but with 16 of them, even
3" long required two rods.
Pulling that number, I noticed that they now offer similar strength rods
with PTFE coating. That might be worth considering. Certainly less likely to sieze
than SS, which I will NOT be using for that reason.
Ken H.
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277293 is a reply to message #277290] |
Mon, 04 May 2015 22:27 |
Kosier
Messages: 834
Registered: February 2008
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Rob,
When I built my 500 Cad, I drilled and tapped the exhaust bolt holes for
heli-coils. I then used socket head cap screws (allen bolts) in them with
anti-seize.
The one time I've had to remove them was no problem.
Gary Kosier
77 PB w/500 Cad
Newark, Oh
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Mueller
Sent: Monday, May 04, 2015 10:41 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak.
Ken,
Thanks for the info, I'll place an order.
I was not considering SS studs AND SS nuts; I was thinking carbon steel
studs and SS nuts.
I have suffered instances of SS nuts seizing on SS bolts and I use
anti-seize lubricant when I use them. I don't know if coating the studs /
nuts with anti-seize will help in this instance due to the high temperature
they are exposed to.
Also I can't remember if SS nuts have a tendency to seize on carbon steel
bolts - anybody have experience with that?
PTFE sounds interesting; anybody got any idea if PTFE will last in this
installation when exposed to the high temperatures?
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Henderson
Rob,
I agree with you about the bolt arrangement on the Cad vs the Olds; the
latter makes no sense at all to me either. I think this is the
McMaster-Carr PN I used: 99065A130
A medium strength, high temperature steel. 3/8"-16 x 3' (for shipping
economy). I don't remember how long I cut them but with 16 of them, even
3" long required two rods.
Pulling that number, I noticed that they now offer similar strength rods
with PTFE coating. That might be worth considering. Certainly less likely
to sieze
than SS, which I will NOT be using for that reason.Ken H.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277298 is a reply to message #277293] |
Tue, 05 May 2015 01:40 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Gary,
Do you have any idea what heli-coils are made of?
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kosier
Rob,
When I built my 500 Cad, I drilled and tapped the exhaust bolt holes for
heli-coils. I then used socket head cap screws (allen bolts) in them with
anti-seize.
The one time I've had to remove them was no problem.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Mueller
Ken,
Thanks for the info, I'll place an order.
I was not considering SS studs AND SS nuts; I was thinking carbon steel
studs and SS nuts.
I have suffered instances of SS nuts seizing on SS bolts and I use
anti-seize lubricant when I use them. I don't know if coating the studs /
nuts with anti-seize will help in this instance due to the high temperature
they are exposed to.
Also I can't remember if SS nuts have a tendency to seize on carbon steel
bolts - anybody have experience with that?
PTFE sounds interesting; anybody got any idea if PTFE will last in this
installation when exposed to the high temperatures?
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Henderson
Rob,
I agree with you about the bolt arrangement on the Cad vs the Olds; the
latter makes no sense at all to me either. I think this is the
McMaster-Carr PN I used: 99065A130
A medium strength, high temperature steel. 3/8"-16 x 3' (for shipping
economy). I don't remember how long I cut them but with 16 of them, even
3" long required two rods.
Pulling that number, I noticed that they now offer similar strength rods
with PTFE coating. That might be worth considering. Certainly less likely
to sieze
than SS, which I will NOT be using for that reason.Ken H.
_______________________________________________
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277313 is a reply to message #277298] |
Tue, 05 May 2015 11:09 |
Kosier
Messages: 834
Registered: February 2008
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
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Rob,
The packages say stainless, but mister magnet really
loves them, so it must be one of the cheaper grades.
My machinist buddy says they are very proud of their
name and the other brand are just as good and much
cheaper. Naturally, I have a large box of genuine
Heli-coil brand inserts. Oh well, it's just money.
Gary Kosier
77 PB w/500 Cad
Newark, Oh
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Mueller
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2015 2:40 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak.
Gary,
Do you have any idea what heli-coils are made of?
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kosier
Rob,
When I built my 500 Cad, I drilled and tapped the exhaust bolt holes for
heli-coils. I then used socket head cap screws (allen bolts) in them with
anti-seize.
The one time I've had to remove them was no problem.
Gary
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob Mueller
Ken,
Thanks for the info, I'll place an order.
I was not considering SS studs AND SS nuts; I was thinking carbon steel
studs and SS nuts.
I have suffered instances of SS nuts seizing on SS bolts and I use
anti-seize lubricant when I use them. I don't know if coating the studs /
nuts with anti-seize will help in this instance due to the high temperature
they are exposed to.
Also I can't remember if SS nuts have a tendency to seize on carbon steel
bolts - anybody have experience with that?
PTFE sounds interesting; anybody got any idea if PTFE will last in this
installation when exposed to the high temperatures?
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Henderson
Rob,
I agree with you about the bolt arrangement on the Cad vs the Olds; the
latter makes no sense at all to me either. I think this is the
McMaster-Carr PN I used: 99065A130
A medium strength, high temperature steel. 3/8"-16 x 3' (for shipping
economy). I don't remember how long I cut them but with 16 of them, even
3" long required two rods.
Pulling that number, I noticed that they now offer similar strength rods
with PTFE coating. That might be worth considering. Certainly less likely
to sieze
than SS, which I will NOT be using for that reason.Ken H.
_______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277327 is a reply to message #277313] |
Tue, 05 May 2015 14:35 |
 |
Bill Freeman
Messages: 122
Registered: March 2004
Location: Colerain, NC
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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I have a 50 year old can of International Harvester anti-seize that I use on exhaust system fasterers. I think stainless steel bolts are trouble and should be avoided on exhaust manifolds. Stainless has a tendency to gall and can be impossible to remove if it does. It also can be a source of galvanic corrosion if mixed with carbon steel. Stainless is even worse at galling if you use a stainless bolt and nut of exactly the same alloy. Brass nuts on carbon steel studs are usually easy to remove but stainless nuts, not so good.
I use grade 5 carbon steel bolts coated with the IH anti seize for manifold attachment to head, and like using brass nuts on the carbon steel exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe studs
Bill Freeman
78 Royale 73 Sequoia
Colerain, North Carolina
[Updated on: Tue, 05 May 2015 14:41] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277338 is a reply to message #277313] |
Tue, 05 May 2015 17:25 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Gary,
Thanks, I remembered they "looked" like stainless but I couldn't remember the magnet test. Also IIRC 304 SS is magnetic but 316 is
not. I think 304 is "stronger / harder / less likely to strip" than 316.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kosier
Rob,
The packages say stainless, but mister magnet really
loves them, so it must be one of the cheaper grades.
My machinist buddy says they are very proud of their
name and the other brand are just as good and much
cheaper. Naturally, I have a large box of genuine
Heli-coil brand inserts. Oh well, it's just money.
Gary Kosier
77 PB w/500 Cad
Newark, Oh
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277362 is a reply to message #277273] |
Tue, 05 May 2015 23:26 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Ken Henderson wrote on Mon, 04 May 2015 17:49Rob,
I agree with you about the bolt arrangement on the Cad vs the Olds; the
latter makes no sense at all to me either. I think this is the
McMaster-Carr PN I used:
99065A130
. A medium strength, high temperature steel. 3/8"-16 x 3' (for shipping
economy). I don't remember how long I cut them but with 16 of them, even
3" long
required two rods.
Pulling that number, I noticed that they now offer similar strength rods
with PTFE
coating. That might be worth considering. Certainly less likely to sieze
than SS,
which I will NOT be using for that reason.
Ken H.
On Mon, May 4, 2015 at 7:19 PM, Rob Mueller wrote:
> Ken,
>
> IMO the design of the Caddy exhaust manifold and its attachment points
> leaves the Olds manifold for dead. There is one mounting
> point on either side of each port which IMO is ideal. The center port on
> the Olds heads with one bolt doesn't make sense to me;
> however, I'm not an engine designer.
>
> I like the idea of replacing the exhaust manifold bolts with studs and
> I'll follow your lead when I build the Caddy 500 I have here
> in Sydney. Where did you get the studs? What was the OD / TPI / Length of
> the studs? You've noted you'll replace the brass nuts with
> steel nuts, why not stainless steel nuts?
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ken Henderson
>
> I replaced the exhaust manifold bolts with studs when I installed the
> Cad500. I also used brass nuts, thinking they'd be less likely to freeze
> up. Well, yes & no: the brass nuts don't freeze up, but they do loosen up
> by deforming on the manifold side -- just tooo hot, I guess. They even
> flow into the excess space between the stud and the washer. Knowing
> there'd likely be some of that, I double-nutted them, but that doesn't help
> with the loosening of the clamping force. And it makes the assembly too
> much more difficult. There's also a little ablation of the external
> surfaces, making the flats a little undersized.
>
> I haven't yet, but will replace the brass nuts with steel ones when they're
> apart again. At least the studs position the penetrant-needing threads out
> where they're readily soakable.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
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Those Cadillac engines come out so often, I doubt you will ever have issues with studs or nuts seizing 
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277422 is a reply to message #276948] |
Wed, 06 May 2015 21:27 |
cbryan
Messages: 451
Registered: May 2012
Location: Ennis, Texas
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Bob,
I was thinking of DZUS fasteners on my Cadillac exhaust manifold. I already use them on the OEM cruise control transducer. 
Carey
Carey from Ennis, Texas
78 Royale, 500 Cadillac, Rance Baxter EFI.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277526 is a reply to message #277339] |
Fri, 08 May 2015 19:12 |
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Bill Freeman
Messages: 122
Registered: March 2004
Location: Colerain, NC
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Rob,
The stuff I have is in a 4" diameter 3" tall can. Looks like its finely powdered aluminum suspended in a heavy, dark colored gear lube. The lube separates and there is a 1/8" layer of it on top of the aluminum. I stir it before use but that may not be necessary.
Yes, I use plain old grade 5 carbon steel fasteners on Olds exhaust manifolds. Even with the anti seize It takes a fair amount of torque to initially break them apart, I don't think they would vibrate out on their own so I don't use locking tabs on the bolts. You might want to use the locking tabs for extra security.
To disassemble, I usually start with a box end wrench and give it a few raps with a hammer. This shock load accomplishes what an impact wrench would in places an impact wrench won't fit. There is no room to use an impact wrench on a Toronado.
The anti seize residue on a removed bolt is powdery. I assume the lube gets cooked out. I don't recall ever having a problem removing any fastener I have used the stuff on. It's useful on exhaust pipe clamps too. I can't say its certain to work in every case but it always has for me.
Quote:Just to make it 100% clear, you use the IH anti-seize on carbon steel exhaust fasteners and have not had any problems taking them
apart.
What is the condition of the anti-seize when you take the fasteners apart - still greasy - powdery - ???
Regards,
Rob M.
Bill Freeman
78 Royale 73 Sequoia
Colerain, North Carolina
[Updated on: Fri, 08 May 2015 19:17] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277546 is a reply to message #277526] |
Sat, 09 May 2015 03:54 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Bill,
Thanks!
Sounds like the same stuff I have. I also have some copper anti-seize wonder which one is better? I'll have to see what the cans say
next time I'm at the shop.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Freeman
The stuff I have is in a 4" diameter 3" tall can. Looks like its finely powdered aluminum suspended in a heavy, dark colored gear
lube. The lube separates and there is a 1/8" layer of it on top of the aluminum. I stir it before use but that may not be
necessary.
Yes, I use plain old grade 5 carbon steel fasteners on Olds exhaust manifolds. Even with the anti seize It takes a fair amount of
torque to initially break them apart, I don't think they would vibrate out on their own so I don't use locking tabs on the bolts.
You might want to use the locking tabs for extra security.
To disassemble, I usually start with a box end wrench and give it a few raps with a hammer. This shock load accomplishes what an
impact wrench would in places an impact wrench won't fit. There is no room to use an impact wrench on a Toronado.
The anti seize residue on a removed bolt is powdery. I assume the lube gets cooked out. I don't recall ever having a problem
removing any fastener I have used the stuff on. It's useful on exhaust pipe clamps too. I can't say its certain to work in every
case but it always has for me.
Bill
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Hello...exhaust manifold leak. [message #277548 is a reply to message #277546] |
Sat, 09 May 2015 07:11 |
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Bill Freeman
Messages: 122
Registered: March 2004
Location: Colerain, NC
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Rob,
I have not used any copper anti seize but since brass nuts on exhaust systems are easy to remove I would expect copper anti seize to work just as well as the aluminum. I think the powdered metal just provides a thin layer of an alloy that won't weld itself to steel. Because of the high temperature any liquid lubricant would probably get cooked out in time. When I remove a coated fastener the aluminum residue has changed color to black. It must be converting to aluminum oxide. The liquid lubricant that the powder is suspended in is probably just there so the powdered metal will stick to the fastener during assembly.
Quote:Sounds like the same stuff I have. I also have some copper anti-seize wonder which one is better? I'll have to see what the cans say
next time I'm at the shop.
Bill Freeman
78 Royale 73 Sequoia
Colerain, North Carolina
[Updated on: Sat, 09 May 2015 07:12] Report message to a moderator |
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