| Grounding the coach electrical [message #271696] |
Wed, 11 February 2015 12:06  |
Who_dun_it
Messages: 176
Registered: April 2007
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Karma: 1
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Hi - I am in the process of installing a PD9200 power converter and they are specific as to how the unit should be grounded. The original "buzz box" was grounded to the 110V circuit breaker ground buss and that is grounded to an aluminum body panel with a lug.
Should I ground each item, converter, circuit breaker panel, coach body, to the coach frame with a separate connection?
And/or can you point me to previous discussions on the subject.
Thank you
Les
T.O. CA
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| Re: Grounding the coach electrical [message #271717 is a reply to message #271696] |
Wed, 11 February 2015 17:13  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Who_dun_it wrote on Wed, 11 February 2015 13:06Hi - I am in the process of installing a PD9200 power converter and they are specific as to how the unit should be grounded. The original "buzz box" was grounded to the 110V circuit breaker ground buss and that is grounded to an aluminum body panel with a lug.
Should I ground each item, converter, circuit breaker panel, coach body, to the coach frame with a separate connection?
And/or can you point me to previous discussions on the subject.
Thank you
Les
T.O. CA
Les,
Progressive Dynamics is specific because they don't know where their box is going to end up.
We have to be kind of careful here because inside the AC breaker box are two bars.
The one with the white insulated wire is the neutral buss, that is not grounded.
The bar with the bare wires is the AC safety ground. It happens that that should be as was grounded to the coach chassis.
The negative side of the DC distribution is also grounded to the chassis near the battery.
The PD converter has a ground pin on the cord. It also has a ground lug on its case as well as a negative lug for the output. Lets ignore the power cord.
In a GMC, The negative lug should connect to the negative of the house bank. This may be impractical, so you could use some nearby part of the aluminum structure.
The case ground lug should be connected to some solid metal of the body or chassis nearby. That is a safety in the case that there is an internal failure. It really should never be necessary, but I don't want to be the one to grab a door handle and find out that there has been a cascade of failures and the door handle is now hot.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Grounding the coach electrical [message #271857 is a reply to message #271717] |
Thu, 12 February 2015 23:22 |
Who_dun_it
Messages: 176
Registered: April 2007
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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"The bar with the bare wires is the AC safety ground. It happens that that should be as was grounded to the coach chassis.
In a GMC, The negative lug should connect to the negative of the house bank. This may be impractical, so you could use some nearby part of the aluminum structure.
The case ground lug should be connected to some solid metal of the body or chassis nearby. That is a safety in the case that there is an internal failure. It really should never be necessary, but I don't want to be the one to grab a door handle and find out that there has been a cascade of failures and the door handle is now hot."
To me it appears that I can ground each of these items, to the coach frame, with a separate lug, I will be okay.
Les
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