Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Front access transmission dipstick (Not saying this is the best way, it's just what I did.)
| Front access transmission dipstick [message #267118] |
Wed, 03 December 2014 20:52  |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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Senior Member |
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Most of you recall I lost my tranny due to a fluid leak that I missed. My hatch has a console sitting on it that must be moved before it can be raised. This is not conducive to frequent fluid checking.
At the Wisconsin rally I purchased a long shaft tranny tube. I also took a look at Ken Henderson's. He uses a 3/8 brake line for the tube to the front and brazed it into the original tube. He uses a piece of 1/8" wire rope for the dipstick and both the original and new dipsticks both are in their tubes and work. That is, he can use either one. The newer long wire rope dipstick was 'calibrated' to match the fluid level as show on the original tube. Clever guy our Mr. Henderson is. 
I had a couple goals:
1- Allow flex between the motor and the hard mount of the long tube. Manny doesn't like long tubes because as the motor moves, it causes the dipstick tube to rock in the differential hole and damage the O-ring. Don't want that to happen....again....  
2- Contrary to what Ken did, I want to be able to add fluid without lifting the hatch.
Ok, here we go. I'm not saying this is THE way to do this, it might not work well but this time, I've got better temp gauges on the tranny fluid and a pressure gauge as well so, hopefully, I'll be able to spot any problems before any damage is done.
I fit the original dipstick in place and determined where any branch off had to be to clear the half shaft. I then bought some 3/4" hard copper tube. A piece of steel electrical conduit (EMT) would have worked fine also but I don't like welding galvanized or cleaning the galvanization off so copper it was. I cut a fishmouth at the desired angle and the marked where the cutout would be on the original tube. This was then cut out and the edges cleaned up.
I used a TIG welder with silicone bronze rod. I could have just as easily brazed it with a torch or probably a MAPP gas unit or even propane torch but I've got the TIG so...
To ensure no pinholes weeped, I painted the weld area with epoxy.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56607-modified-original-tran.html
The LONG tube was painted and turned around so I could use the bracket to mount it.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56609-toranado-long-dipstick.html
This is the modified original tube in place with a NEW O-ring.
[url=http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56610-modified-original-dipstick.html[/url]
Below you can see the new long tube inserted through the congestion of the under hood area and front of the engine. It is currently BESIDE the new "Y".
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56611-modified-original-dipstick.html
Here is the long tube inside the "Y". It slips in about an inch and a half. There is enough 'slop' so that as the engine moves it will allow the long tube to flex at this joint. It's mounted hard up front.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56612-the-two-dipsticks-slip-together-the-long-dipstick-is-used-backward.html
And here is the joint with a hose clamped over each end to keep 'stuff' out and fluid in.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56614-some-3-4-hose-and-clamps-keeps-things-leak-free-but-will-allow-the-motor-to.html
On the front end, I cut off the long dipstick. When I get the transmission fluid level correct, I'll calibrate the new wire rope for the correct fluid level and weld it to the end of the fancy dipstick. The business end of the rope is welded solid so it won't catch on anything or unwind. I'll do something similar to mark the desired fluid levels.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56613-the-old-bottom-bolts-to-my-electric-windshield-wiper-bracket.html
That's it. I'm planning on checking my fluid quite frequently. Changing these transmissions is not much fun. 
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front access transmission dipstick [message #267125 is a reply to message #267118] |
Thu, 04 December 2014 01:36  |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Kerry,
Nice work!
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
USAussie - Downunder
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Kerry Pinkerton
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 1:52 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Front access transmission dipstick
Most of you recall I lost my tranny due to a fluid leak that I missed. My hatch has a console sitting on it that must be moved
before it can be raised. This is not conducive to frequent fluid checking.
At the Wisconsin rally I purchased a long shaft tranny tube. I also took a look at Ken Henderson's. He uses a 3/8 brake line for
the tube to the front and brazed it into the original tube. He uses a piece of 1/8" wire rope for the dipstick and both the
original and new dipsticks both are in their tubes and work. That is, he can use either one. The newer long wire rope dipstick was
'calibrated' to match the fluid level as show on the original tube. Clever guy our Mr. Henderson is. :d
I had a couple goals:
1- Allow flex between the motor and the hard mount of the long tube. Manny doesn't like long tubes because as the motor moves, it
causes the dipstick tube to rock in the differential hole and damage the O-ring. Don't want that to happen....again.... 8o :blush:
2- Contrary to what Ken did, I want to be able to add fluid without lifting the hatch.
Ok, here we go. I'm not saying this is THE way to do this, it might not work well but this time, I've got better temp gauges on the
tranny fluid and a pressure gauge as well so, hopefully, I'll be able to spot any problems before any damage is done.
I fit the original dipstick in place and determined where any branch off had to be to clear the half shaft. I then bought some 3/4"
hard copper tube. A piece of steel electrical conduit (EMT) would have worked fine also but I don't like welding galvanized or
cleaning the galvanization off so copper it was. I cut a fishmouth at the desired angle and the marked where the cutout would be on
the original tube. This was then cut out and the edges cleaned up.
I used a TIG welder with silicone bronze rod. I could have just as easily brazed it with a torch or probably a MAPP gas unit or
even propane torch but I've got the TIG so...
To ensure no pinholes weeped, I painted the weld area with epoxy.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56607-modified-original-tran.html
The LONG tube was painted and turned around so I could use the bracket to mount it.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56609-toranado-long-dipstick.html
This is the modified original tube in place with a NEW O-ring. :blush:
[url=http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56610-modified-original-dipstick.html[/url]
Below you can see the new long tube inserted through the congestion of the under hood area and front of the engine. It is currently
BESIDE the new "Y".
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56611-modified-original-dipstick.html
Here is the long tube inside the "Y". It slips in about an inch and a half. There is enough 'slop' so that as the engine moves it
will allow the long tube to flex at this joint. It's mounted hard up front.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56612-the-two-dipsticks-slip-together-the-long-dipstick-is-used-backw
ard.html
And here is the joint with a hose clamped over each end to keep 'stuff' out and fluid in.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56614-some-3-4-hose-and-clamps-keeps-things-leak-free-but-will-allow-
the-motor-to.html
On the front end, I cut off the long dipstick. When I get the transmission fluid level correct, I'll calibrate the new wire rope
for the correct fluid level and weld it to the end of the fancy dipstick. The business end of the rope is welded solid so it won't
catch on anything or unwind. I'll do something similar to mark the desired fluid levels.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56613-the-old-bottom-bolts-to-my-electric-windshield-wiper-bracket.ht
ml
That's it. I'm planning on checking my fluid quite frequently. Changing these transmissions is not much fun. :lol: :lol: :lol:
--
Kerry
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Front access transmission dipstick [message #267132 is a reply to message #267125] |
Thu, 04 December 2014 05:54 |
Jim at the Co-op
Messages: 291
Registered: May 2014
Location: Orlando Florida
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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There is an important issue I didn't see addressed. The dip stick is not
just a hole for the stick -- It's also the fill and it's a vent for the
transmission case. Look at the black seal on the original dip stick and
you will see a groove in the gasket to allow venting. I have seen
instances that pressure squished ATF through the pan gasket.
The trans stick CLASCO came up with from Lokar was a 3/8" braided stainless
hose with a Teflon dip stick. It looked awesome but I keep one of the
"filler funnel" adapters that came with the kit to remind me how long it
takes to drip 5 quarts of ATF down that 3/8" hose when you do a filter
change!. That unit also had a seal at the top that prevented water from
getting to the trans yes but it also took away the case vent.
Anyway, the original tube and stick has become a rare part. So many of the
remote kits are coming off we do not have any original ones left. Our
stick and tube configuration is not used in any other transmission, you
cannot buy new ones so if you have one hold onto it.
As you can tell, I also do not recommend them, from having to keep so many
coaches going that upgrade seems to be a detriment in cases. This is my
take from this side of Lake Wobegone, there may be differing opinions and
that's fine. If you check your ATF when you lift your engine cover to
check your belts, hoses, carb and exh. bolts, PS fluid and all that -- if
you do not see ATF on the ground when you park, do not have the underside
of your coach wet, it shifts well and there is no smoke -- if you had a
good level when you checked it before you took off AND I KNOW ALL OF YOU
CHECK ALL OF THAT EVERY STUFF TIME YOU GO ON A TRIP -- if not it's all your
fault if all that happened then your tranny fluid is fine to drive. Your
transmission does not "use" transmission fluid.
Hope this helps,
Jim Bounds
On Thu, Dec 4, 2014 at 2:36 AM, Rob Mueller wrote:
> Kerry,
>
> Nice work!
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> The Pedantic Mechanic
> USAussie - Downunder
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Kerry
> Pinkerton
> Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2014 1:52 PM
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: [GMCnet] Front access transmission dipstick
>
> Most of you recall I lost my tranny due to a fluid leak that I missed. My
> hatch has a console sitting on it that must be moved
> before it can be raised. This is not conducive to frequent fluid checking.
>
> At the Wisconsin rally I purchased a long shaft tranny tube. I also took
> a look at Ken Henderson's. He uses a 3/8 brake line for
> the tube to the front and brazed it into the original tube. He uses a
> piece of 1/8" wire rope for the dipstick and both the
> original and new dipsticks both are in their tubes and work. That is, he
> can use either one. The newer long wire rope dipstick was
> 'calibrated' to match the fluid level as show on the original tube.
> Clever guy our Mr. Henderson is. :d
>
> I had a couple goals:
>
> 1- Allow flex between the motor and the hard mount of the long tube.
> Manny doesn't like long tubes because as the motor moves, it
> causes the dipstick tube to rock in the differential hole and damage the
> O-ring. Don't want that to happen....again.... 8o :blush:
>
>
> 2- Contrary to what Ken did, I want to be able to add fluid without
> lifting the hatch.
>
> Ok, here we go. I'm not saying this is THE way to do this, it might not
> work well but this time, I've got better temp gauges on the
> tranny fluid and a pressure gauge as well so, hopefully, I'll be able to
> spot any problems before any damage is done.
>
> I fit the original dipstick in place and determined where any branch off
> had to be to clear the half shaft. I then bought some 3/4"
> hard copper tube. A piece of steel electrical conduit (EMT) would have
> worked fine also but I don't like welding galvanized or
> cleaning the galvanization off so copper it was. I cut a fishmouth at the
> desired angle and the marked where the cutout would be on
> the original tube. This was then cut out and the edges cleaned up.
>
> I used a TIG welder with silicone bronze rod. I could have just as easily
> brazed it with a torch or probably a MAPP gas unit or
> even propane torch but I've got the TIG so...
>
> To ensure no pinholes weeped, I painted the weld area with epoxy.
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56607-modified-original-tran.html
>
> The LONG tube was painted and turned around so I could use the bracket to
> mount it.
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56609-toranado-long-dipstick.html
>
> This is the modified original tube in place with a NEW O-ring. :blush:
>
> [url=[/color]
[color=blue]> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56610-modified-original-dipstick.html[/url][/color]
>
> Below you can see the new long tube inserted through the congestion of the
> under hood area and front of the engine. It is currently
> BESIDE the new "Y".
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56611-modified-original-dipstick.html
>
> Here is the long tube inside the "Y". It slips in about an inch and a
> half. There is enough 'slop' so that as the engine moves it
> will allow the long tube to flex at this joint. It's mounted hard up
> front.
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56612-the-two-dipsticks-slip-together-the-long-dipstick-is-used-backw
> ard.html
>
> And here is the joint with a hose clamped over each end to keep 'stuff'
> out and fluid in.
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56614-some-3-4-hose-and-clamps-keeps-things-leak-free-but-will-allow-
> the-motor-to.html
>
> On the front end, I cut off the long dipstick. When I get the
> transmission fluid level correct, I'll calibrate the new wire rope
> for the correct fluid level and weld it to the end of the fancy dipstick.
> The business end of the rope is welded solid so it won't
> catch on anything or unwind. I'll do something similar to mark the
> desired fluid levels.
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/front-transmission-dipstick/p56613-the-old-bottom-bolts-to-my-electric-windshield-wiper-bracket.ht
> ml
>
> That's it. I'm planning on checking my fluid quite frequently. Changing
> these transmissions is not much fun. :lol: :lol: :lol:
> --
> Kerry
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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