| [GMCnet] Window Blinds [message #265950] |
Wed, 12 November 2014 20:31  |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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I want to order some cellular blinds from www.blindschalet.com . I think I've measured this correctly, but I'd like to hear from others who have done this already to see if my measurements are correct.
Front Windows - dinette and bunk = 60.5" x 36" (2)
Door and Kitchen = 24" x 36" (2)
Rear side windows = 36" x 36" (2)
Large rear window = 69.5" x 36" (1)
I intend to build box valences for these to fully enclose them.
Any help would be appreciated!
Larry Davick
Fremont, California
A Mystery Machine
'76 (ish) Palm Beach
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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| Re: [GMCnet] Window Blinds [message #265953 is a reply to message #265950] |
Wed, 12 November 2014 21:50  |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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Larry, if memory serves, that was the same measurements I used with our Levelors.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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| Re: [GMCnet] Window Blinds [message #265962 is a reply to message #265953] |
Thu, 13 November 2014 06:07 |
Jim at the Co-op
Messages: 291
Registered: May 2014
Location: Orlando Florida
Karma: 2
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Make the door blind 24" wide to clear the arc of the door as it closes.
36" is 1" longer than what we use & I have found that you will need a
little more width on the rear window say 71.5". Your numbers will work
though.
If you have a GM floorplan overhead cabinet, you only have 1.5" gap between
the cabinet back and the wall and in that the wall is slanted in at the top
you will need a vertical side valence at the least to keep the blind on the
wall. Get as large a pleat as you can find, the pleats give the strength
of the material small pleats fall inward at the middle given time.
I've spent much time considering window treatments, it's certainly not
rocket science ad there are many ways to go, I have found things that help
us , good luck,
Jim Bounds
------------------------
On Wed, Nov 12, 2014 at 10:50 PM, Kerry Pinkerton
wrote:
> Larry, if memory serves, that was the same measurements I used with our
> Levelors.
>
> --
> Kerry Pinkerton
>
> North Alabama, near Huntsville,
>
> 77 Eleganza II, "The Lady", 403CI, Manny Brakes, 1 ton, tranny also a 76
> Eleganza to be re-bodied as an Art Deco car hauler
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| Re: [GMCnet] Window Blinds [message #265996 is a reply to message #265950] |
Thu, 13 November 2014 13:19 |
KB
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
Karma: 0
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Ours are 61 1/2" for the big side windows in front, 26" for the galley window, 24" for the door window, 37 1/4" for the rear side windows,
and 72" for the back window, though that one could probably have been a smidge narrower. The rear window valence is BY FAR
the hardest to build; lots of complicated curves back there. Other widths could work and you should double-check your coach.
Mostly you just need to make them wide enough so the valence can sit against the wall, not against the trim around the windows.
I think later coaches probably have narrower trim so could go with narrower shades. Too wide is better than too narrow because
the shades can be cut down on a chop saw if necessary (kind of a pain, but doable).
Went with 36" tall on all of them; could have been shorter, especially at the door. As mentioned the door valence has to clear the
complicated swing of the door, so might be best to build the valence for that first and then order a blind to fit the valence.
I had to move the overhead cabinets out a little bit for the increased depth of the shades/valence.
We used 3/8" double cell blackout shades from justblinds.com and LOVE them. They make an unbelievable difference.
The blackout shades have a foil lining that really helps block heat transfer.
http://www.justblinds.com/products/105254
We especially like the top-down/bottom-up feature -- that way you can lower the top of the shade to let light in while still blocking the views in from outside.
Karen
1975 26'
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| Re: [GMCnet] Window Blinds [message #268780 is a reply to message #268775] |
Sat, 03 January 2015 10:50 |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
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Hi Larry
When I installed Hunter Douglas insulated shades back in 1998 I also had to move the cabinets to make room for them between the wall and cabinet. I cut a piece of 3/4" pine and screwed it to the back of the cabinet mounting flange and cut another to mount on the inside top of the cabinet face.
I drilled holes through the back flange any used bolts about 1" longer. I drilled new holes in line with the top holes 3/4" inboard through the new top piece. I used the existing bolts for those holes. The result is that the cabinet was moved out exactly 3/4" and was just right to mount the new shades.
I screwed the shade brackets to the rear flange but later, when I had to replace a cord I found it very difficult to remove the shade from the mount. So, I cut a board to fit and mounted the shade to the board. I held it in place and drilled holes through the back of the cupboard for screws to hold the shade. This made it easy to take down the shade for cleaning or repair.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick,CO
> On Jan 3, 2015, at 9:30 AM, Larry Davick wrote:
>
> Well, my blinds showed up and they are too thick. The are listed as 9/16" blinds but the header measures to nearly 1.75". Dopey me - when the cell
> closes it get wider - duh.
> I'm not thrilled with the idea modifying the blinds, nor am I thrilled with the thought of modifying the cabinets so I've contacted the vendor to see
> if they can offer any assistance. I understand their return policy is a simple one "No!"
> This is just one of those times when buying on-line is risky.
> If I were to bump out the cabinets 1/4" or 1/2" to accommodate these blinds how would I go about modifying the top cabinet cleat to securely hold the
> weight of the box?
> --
> Larry Davick
> A Mystery Machine
> 1976(ish) Palm Beach
> Fremont, Ca
> _______________________________________________
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| Re: [GMCnet] Window Blinds [message #268803 is a reply to message #265950] |
Sat, 03 January 2015 17:02 |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Karma: 0
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I purchased my blinds with Jim Bounds' help as he was able to get some nice thin ones. The valances along the sides make all the difference to keep them in place and prevent too much rattling when driving.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Window Blinds [message #268820 is a reply to message #268780] |
Sat, 03 January 2015 20:21 |
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ljdavick
Messages: 3548
Registered: March 2007
Location: Fremont, CA
Karma: -3
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Senior Member |
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Thank you, Emery. That's what I'll do.
Larry Davick
> On Jan 3, 2015, at 8:50 AM, Emery Stora wrote:
>
> Hi Larry
>
> When I installed Hunter Douglas insulated shades back in 1998 I also had to move the cabinets to make room for them between the wall and cabinet. I cut a piece of 3/4" pine and screwed it to the back of the cabinet mounting flange and cut another to mount on the inside top of the cabinet face.
>
> I drilled holes through the back flange any used bolts about 1" longer. I drilled new holes in line with the top holes 3/4" inboard through the new top piece. I used the existing bolts for those holes. The result is that the cabinet was moved out exactly 3/4" and was just right to mount the new shades.
>
> I screwed the shade brackets to the rear flange but later, when I had to replace a cord I found it very difficult to remove the shade from the mount. So, I cut a board to fit and mounted the shade to the board. I held it in place and drilled holes through the back of the cupboard for screws to hold the shade. This made it easy to take down the shade for cleaning or repair.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick,CO
>
>> On Jan 3, 2015, at 9:30 AM, Larry Davick wrote:
>>
>> Well, my blinds showed up and they are too thick. The are listed as 9/16" blinds but the header measures to nearly 1.75". Dopey me - when the cell
>> closes it get wider - duh.
>> I'm not thrilled with the idea modifying the blinds, nor am I thrilled with the thought of modifying the cabinets so I've contacted the vendor to see
>> if they can offer any assistance. I understand their return policy is a simple one "No!"
>> This is just one of those times when buying on-line is risky.
>> If I were to bump out the cabinets 1/4" or 1/2" to accommodate these blinds how would I go about modifying the top cabinet cleat to securely hold the
>> weight of the box?
>> --
>> Larry Davick
>> A Mystery Machine
>> 1976(ish) Palm Beach
>> Fremont, Ca
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
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