Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Water heater lines, no more rubber
Water heater lines, no more rubber [message #259252] |
Mon, 18 August 2014 15:05 |
Keith V
Messages: 2337 Registered: March 2008 Location: Mounds View,MN
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And now, For my next project....
I need to replace the water lines from the engine to the water heater.
They are some really old and nasty 5/8" heater hose that look about to fail. Sagging and flopping around.
I'm going to replace them with hard line. Steel or copper. 1/2" at the most, maybe 3/8 or 7/16 depending on the sweet spot in cost. I don't see the need to pump all that through the water heater, after a day of driving I'm betting a 1/4" line would do the job.
Yes there will be a flexible connection to the engine.
I would like hard plastic, i.e. pex, but since it has to handle 220 degrees I'm not sure thats a good idea.
Has anyone pursued this rabbit hole?
Keith Vasilakes
Mounds View. MN
75 ex Royale GMC
ask me about MicroLevel
Cell, 763-732-3419
My427v8@hotmail.com
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Re: Water heater lines, no more rubber [message #259261 is a reply to message #259252] |
Mon, 18 August 2014 16:57 |
lotsofspareparts
Messages: 726 Registered: May 2014 Location: Arlington, WA
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Even the high temp orange PEX tubing isn't rated for temps that high, 180 is the limit.
I am thinking that copper would be a really good choice all though you are likely to lose some BTUs on the way to the heater, long run and lots of cooling air.
I am not certain if there is some type of reducer that controls the flow to the heater as well. If there is no reducer I bet copper just might work. I have considered the same thing, and copper is at the top of my list, followed by aluminum.
Jared
Jared & Tina Lazaron + 14yr old Daughter.....
77 Eleganza II "Recherché".....
73 Canyon Lands 230 "Elephant"
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Re: [GMCnet] Water heater lines, no more rubber [message #259265 is a reply to message #259261] |
Mon, 18 August 2014 17:14 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442 Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
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Yes, there is a reducer. The short pipe that goes down into the passenger side head at the rear top has a smaller diameter (orifice) inside of it which controls the amount of hot coolant that goes back to the hot water heater.
Some have found out that things get really hot back there when they discard that small pipe.
Emery Stora
On Aug 18, 2014, at 3:58 PM, Jared wrote:
> Even the high temp orange PEX tubing isn't rated for temps that high, 180 is the limit.
>
> I am thinking that copper would be a really good choice all though you are likely to lose some BTUs on the way to the heater, long run and lots of
> cooling air.
>
> I am not certain if there is some type of reducer that controls the flow to the heater as well. If there is no reducer I bet copper just might work. I
> have considered the same thing, and copper is at the top of my list, followed by aluminum.
>
> Jared
> --
> Jared & Tina Lazaron + 7yr old Daughter.
>
> 77 Eleganza II "Recherché" Winterfeldt 455, Holley ProJection, Doug Thorley Headers, 3in exhaust, Switch Pitch, Alcoas, ONAN 6.5 Emerald series, CMC
> Restoration
>
> GO SEAHAWKS!!
>
> Arlington, WA 98223
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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Re: [GMCnet] Water heater lines, no more rubber [message #259268 is a reply to message #259265] |
Mon, 18 August 2014 17:48 |
lotsofspareparts
Messages: 726 Registered: May 2014 Location: Arlington, WA
Karma: -9
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emerystora wrote on Mon, 18 August 2014 15:14Yes, there is a reducer. The short pipe that goes down into the passenger side head at the rear top has a smaller diameter (orifice) inside of it which controls the amount of hot coolant that goes back to the hot water heater.
Some have found out that things get really hot back there when they discard that small pipe.
Emery Stora
On Aug 18, 2014, at 3:58 PM, Jared wrote:
> Even the high temp orange PEX tubing isn't rated for temps that high, 180 is the limit.
>
> I am thinking that copper would be a really good choice all though you are likely to lose some BTUs on the way to the heater, long run and lots of
> cooling air.
>
> I am not certain if there is some type of reducer that controls the flow to the heater as well. If there is no reducer I bet copper just might work. I
> have considered the same thing, and copper is at the top of my list, followed by aluminum.
>
> Jared
> --
> Jared & Tina Lazaron + 7yr old Daughter.
>
> 77 Eleganza II "Recherché" Winterfeldt 455, Holley ProJection, Doug Thorley Headers, 3in exhaust, Switch Pitch, Alcoas, ONAN 6.5 Emerald series, CMC
> Restoration
>
> GO SEAHAWKS!!
>
> Arlington, WA 98223
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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At what temperature does the relief valve pop on our factory 6 gallon heater?
Jared
Jared & Tina Lazaron + 14yr old Daughter.....
77 Eleganza II "Recherché".....
73 Canyon Lands 230 "Elephant"
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Re: [GMCnet] Water heater lines, no more rubber [message #259282 is a reply to message #259278] |
Mon, 18 August 2014 19:01 |
Otterwan
Messages: 946 Registered: July 2013 Location: Lynnwood (north of Seattl...
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I would consider the fact the those likely original lines lasted 40 years and aren't leaking. Heater hose is cheap (you can buy 50' boxes of 5/8" and 3/4" from Amazon) and today's hose is likely better than that of 40 years ago. Instead of trying to reinvent the wheel, just replace the hoses and be done with. Sure you may have to replace them in 2054, but for most of us that will not be a problem.
1977 Birchaven, Lynnwood WA - "We may not be able to stop all evil in the world, but I know that how we treat one another is entirely up to us."
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Re: [GMCnet] Water heater lines, no more rubber [message #259285 is a reply to message #259278] |
Mon, 18 August 2014 19:39 |
lotsofspareparts
Messages: 726 Registered: May 2014 Location: Arlington, WA
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bdub wrote on Mon, 18 August 2014 16:22It's a pressure relief, not a temperature relief.
On Aug 18, 2014 5:48 PM, "Jared" wrote:
At what temperature does the relief valve pop on our factory 6 gallon
heater?
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That is true but with increased temperature comes increased pressure. I didn't say what I meant originally. At what pressure do our relief valves go pop?
Jared
Jared & Tina Lazaron + 14yr old Daughter.....
77 Eleganza II "Recherché".....
73 Canyon Lands 230 "Elephant"
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Re: [GMCnet] Water heater lines, no more rubber [message #259289 is a reply to message #259288] |
Mon, 18 August 2014 20:17 |
lotsofspareparts
Messages: 726 Registered: May 2014 Location: Arlington, WA
Karma: -9
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A Hamilto wrote on Mon, 18 August 2014 17:52lotsofspareparts wrote on Mon, 18 August 2014 19:39bdub wrote on Mon, 18 August 2014 16:22It's a pressure relief, not a temperature relief.
On Aug 18, 2014 5:48 PM, "Jared" wrote:
At what temperature does the relief valve pop on our factory 6 gallon heater? That is true but with increased temperature comes increased pressure. I didn't say what I meant originally. At what pressure do our relief valves go pop?
Jared Its called a temperature AND pressure relief valve. The residential ones open at 150 PSI OR 210F. I would expect the RV stuff to be the same.
That would certainly explain the need for the reducer. I'm just going to go with rubber, there's no muss, no fuss, and we use Goodyear 5/8 Heater Hose in our boats and can get a 50' box at cost.
Jared
Jared & Tina Lazaron + 14yr old Daughter.....
77 Eleganza II "Recherché".....
73 Canyon Lands 230 "Elephant"
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Re: [GMCnet] Water heater lines, no more rubber [message #259305 is a reply to message #259285] |
Mon, 18 August 2014 21:52 |
George Beckman
Messages: 1085 Registered: October 2008 Location: Colfax, CA
Karma: 11
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[quote title=lotsofspareparts wrote on Mon, 18 August 2014 17:39]bdub wrote on Mon, 18 August 2014 16:22It's a pressure relief, not a temperature relief.
On Aug 18, 2014 5:48 PM, "Jared" wrote:
That is true but with increased temperature comes increased pressure. I didn't say what I meant originally. At what pressure do our relief valves go pop?
Jared
Jared,
Not sure what pressure but our coach and at least one other have arrived for the evening after a long drive only to find that the pressure pop off is leaking. Luckily both were able to be stopped by flipping the little trigger on the top, opening it for another second.
We try to remember, when the coach has been sitting or the water in the heater is cold, to make sure the pump is off and then drain the pressure from the system by turning on a faucet for a moment. Even after doing this I find, sometimes, that the pressure has built up considerably. My pop off has not been activated for a couple of years now.
Climb a hill and I am betting the water is pretty hot back there. But it is nice to arrive with hot water. I am thinking about re-plumbing the automatic water mixing valve so that it also supplies the sink as well as shower.
'74 Eleganza, SE, Howell + EBL
Best Wishes,
George
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Re: [GMCnet] Water heater lines, no more rubber [message #259330 is a reply to message #259317] |
Tue, 19 August 2014 07:54 |
bdub
Messages: 1578 Registered: February 2004 Location: Central Texas
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Excellent post, Rob! I'd forgotten about that device. I don't see why it
wouldn't work with all GMCs water heaters.
bdub
On Aug 19, 2014 5:36 AM, "Rob Mueller" wrote:
>
> Keith,
>
> Following information relates to square Atwood six gallon water heaters
installed in Avions, I have NO idea if it applies to the
> round water heaters in GMC's or coaches outfitted by other manufacturers.
>
> Even with that restrictor (approximately 5/16") installed and that there
is only a single copper loop in the water heater the temps will go above
the setting of the relief valve. I discovered that when hooking up to shore
water the water heater relief valve would open and dump water out until the
cold input water would reduce the temperature below the relief valve
setting.
>
> To "fix" that problem Cinnabar sells:
>
>
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/aa-miscellaneous-photos/p54199-atwood-water-heater-va.html
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bdub
'76 Palm Beach/Central Texas
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