Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #253064] |
Mon, 23 June 2014 19:42 |
fred v
Messages: 999 Registered: April 2006 Location: pensacola, fl.
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Today I vac. the system down and added 2 cans of Duracool static. Then cranked the engine. The low gauge read 8# with the compressor running. When it clicks off the pressure goes up to 70#. Clutch pulls in again and the press. drops to 8#. I add another can of Duracool and get the exact same gauge readings. The dash air is about 60 deg. (90 deg outside) through this whole process.
You guys always talk about getting 20# on the gauge. Does that mean 20# all the time, compressor on and off? Should the pressure go up with the clutch disengaged?
Thanks,
Fred V
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl
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Re: Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #253066 is a reply to message #253064] |
Mon, 23 June 2014 20:13 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030 Registered: January 2004 Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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20# on the gage with the engine running 1500 rpm with the compressor engaged and the AC running on high fan (maximum cold).
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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Re: Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #253085 is a reply to message #253064] |
Tue, 24 June 2014 01:00 |
roy1
Messages: 2126 Registered: July 2004 Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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fred v wrote on Mon, 23 June 2014 17:42Today I vac. the system down and added 2 cans of Duracool static. Then cranked the engine. The low gauge read 8# with the compressor running. When it clicks off the pressure goes up to 70#. Clutch pulls in again and the press. drops to 8#. I add another can of Duracool and get the exact same gauge readings. The dash air is about 60 deg. (90 deg outside) through this whole process.
You guys always talk about getting 20# on the gauge. Does that mean 20# all the time, compressor on and off? Should the pressure go up with the clutch disengaged?
Thanks,
Fred V
With 3 cans of Duracool in the system and outside ambient temperature approaching 100 degrees your suction pressure should be more like 25 lbs at 1500 engine rpm . If it is only 8 lbs the most likely problem is a defective expansion valve or a badly restricted dryer. If it is the dryer you should be able to feel a definite temperature drop on the down stream side of the dryer(side closest to the evaporator ). If you don't feel this temperature difference I would suspect the expansion valve. If the blower isn't getting up to speed it would be a low suction also as would a badly plugged evap coil Finn area.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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Re: [GMCnet] Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #253129 is a reply to message #253109] |
Tue, 24 June 2014 12:45 |
roy1
Messages: 2126 Registered: July 2004 Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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emerystora wrote on Tue, 24 June 2014 07:15Fred
It should take approximately 3 cans.
Are you taking the low pressure side readings with the air conditioner on Max and the engine at 1500 rpm?
It is very strange that the pressure would be the same for can 2 and then can 3. Unless you are taking it at idle.
When the clutch disengages it is ok for the pressure to go up to 70. That is the equalized pressure between the low and high sides. However it usually doesn't go to that immediately.
If you really have only 8 psi with three cans then you probably have a bad compressor.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
Before you condem the compressor put a gage on the high side I think you will see it is over 100 psi with it running. It is not uncommon for the pressure to stay unusually low when you added the third can if there is a restriction in the drier or a bad x valve. I would check the first the evap coil, the motor speed and blower wheel for debree,the compressor discharge pressure, t.d.across drier (with it running) . If all this seems ok replace the drier and expansion valve and make sure the condenser has nothing restricting it. Your situation is not common but in the 40 years as an a/c service mechanic the few times I ran into this type of problem it was one of these things. It could be you will find a different problem but I doubt it.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
[Updated on: Tue, 24 June 2014 12:50] Report message to a moderator
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Re: [GMCnet] Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #253154 is a reply to message #253129] |
Tue, 24 June 2014 18:39 |
fred v
Messages: 999 Registered: April 2006 Location: pensacola, fl.
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Thanks for the advice.
First off the replacement compressor is off a '78 403 engine and I put it on my 455 engine. I found when I tried to put the belt back on that the pulley is larger on the 403 compressor and I had to get a longer belt. I've done my own AC work since the early 2000's so I'm not unfamiliar with it but still learning.
I did get a good solid vacuum on it and it held it for 20 minutes or so. I added 2 cans without running the engine as the can says to do. I then cranked it up and saw the 8 to 10# gauge reading at 1500 RPM. Adding the 3rd can made no difference. It is working and cooling enough for a July 4th short trip so I won't do anything more until after that. The compressor is cycling about every minute as it did before changing to the 403 unit.
Today I removed the blower to check for debris and found the internals to be clean. I'm getting about average air flow from the dash vents. I have, in the past removed the front of the AC box and cleaned it out. The evaporator at the time was not plugged up with debris. I have the heater cut off with a ball valve and the fresh air intake at the front of the box blocked off so all air is coming through the return air duct inside.
So, it is looking more like the exp. valve however with the old compressor I was getting the 20# gauge reading. That is why I'm asking these questions. The compressor was working fine on the coach it came out of.
Fred V
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl
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Re: [GMCnet] Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #253430 is a reply to message #253154] |
Fri, 27 June 2014 09:52 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260 Registered: January 2004 Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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fred v wrote on Tue, 24 June 2014 17:39Thanks for the advice.
First off the replacement compressor is off a '78 403 engine and I put it on my 455 engine. I found when I tried to put the belt back on that the pulley is larger on the 403 compressor and I had to get a longer belt. I've done my own AC work since the early 2000's so I'm not unfamiliar with it but still learning.
I did get a good solid vacuum on it and it held it for 20 minutes or so. I added 2 cans without running the engine as the can says to do. I then cranked it up and saw the 8 to 10# gauge reading at 1500 RPM. Adding the 3rd can made no difference. It is working and cooling enough for a July 4th short trip so I won't do anything more until after that. The compressor is cycling about every minute as it did before changing to the 403 unit.
Today I removed the blower to check for debris and found the internals to be clean. I'm getting about average air flow from the dash vents. I have, in the past removed the front of the AC box and cleaned it out. The evaporator at the time was not plugged up with debris. I have the heater cut off with a ball valve and the fresh air intake at the front of the box blocked off so all air is coming through the return air duct inside.
So, it is looking more like the exp. valve however with the old compressor I was getting the 20# gauge reading. That is why I'm asking these questions. The compressor was working fine on the coach it came out of.
Fred V
Fred, I'm wondering if the compressor may be cycling to soon because of an issue with the thermal cycling switch. It is easily bypassed temporarily to see if that may be contributing.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/miscellaneous/p17173.html
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/miscellaneous/p17173.html
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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Re: Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #253853 is a reply to message #253064] |
Mon, 30 June 2014 15:57 |
bwevers
Messages: 597 Registered: October 2010 Location: San Jose
Karma: 5
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I once measured the air temp to be 28 degrees F on my stock air conditioner.
I have been experimenting with different air ducting to get more cold air.
Roy makes a good point. It might be that the air damper in the heater box is stuck in the heat position.
I had to replace the cable on mine.
Bill Wevers GMC49ers, GMC Western States
1975 Glenbrook - Manny Powerdrive, OneTon
455 F Block, G heads
San Jose
[Updated on: Mon, 30 June 2014 16:01] Report message to a moderator
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Re: Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #253870 is a reply to message #253064] |
Mon, 30 June 2014 17:34 |
fred v
Messages: 999 Registered: April 2006 Location: pensacola, fl.
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I haven't found the problem yet but today I jumpered out the temp. switch that cycles the compressor and it seemed to work fine. It put out 45 deg. air and the low pressure hose was not frosting up. Wed. I'll take it to a 4th gathering as a mobile hotel. The drive will be about an hour or so which will be enough to see what it does. If it fails then I'll work on it again when I get it back home. Expansion valve replacement will be the next thing. The system has a lot of green goo in it so I would not be surprised that the exp. valve was gummed up.
Thanks for all the advice,
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl
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Re: Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #253889 is a reply to message #253870] |
Mon, 30 June 2014 19:36 |
roy1
Messages: 2126 Registered: July 2004 Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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fred v wrote on Mon, 30 June 2014 15:34I haven't found the problem yet but today I jumpered out the temp. switch that cycles the compressor and it seemed to work fine. It put out 45 deg. air and the low pressure hose was not frosting up. Wed. I'll take it to a 4th gathering as a mobile hotel. The drive will be about an hour or so which will be enough to see what it does. If it fails then I'll work on it again when I get it back home. Expansion valve replacement will be the next thing. The system has a lot of green goo in it so I would not be surprised that the exp. valve was gummed up.
Thanks for all the advice,
If you have any kind of goo in there you are going to have to flush everything including the compressor and put in new oil too . The dryer will need to be changed also.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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Re: Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #253956 is a reply to message #253889] |
Tue, 01 July 2014 08:00 |
fred v
Messages: 999 Registered: April 2006 Location: pensacola, fl.
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roy1 wrote on Mon, 30 June 2014 19:36fred v wrote on Mon, 30 June 2014 15:34I haven't found the problem yet but today I jumpered out the temp. switch that cycles the compressor and it seemed to work fine. It put out 45 deg. air and the low pressure hose was not frosting up. Wed. I'll take it to a 4th gathering as a mobile hotel. The drive will be about an hour or so which will be enough to see what it does. If it fails then I'll work on it again when I get it back home. Expansion valve replacement will be the next thing. The system has a lot of green goo in it so I would not be surprised that the exp. valve was gummed up.
Thanks for all the advice,
If you have any kind of goo in there you are going to have to flush everything including the compressor and put in new oil too . The dryer will need to be changed also.
Right, just redo the whole thing. I'm guilty too of putting that crap in the system rather than fixing the leaks.
Fred V
'77 Royale RB 455
P'cola, Fl
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Re: Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #253977 is a reply to message #253870] |
Tue, 01 July 2014 10:50 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260 Registered: January 2004 Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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fred v wrote on Mon, 30 June 2014 16:34I haven't found the problem yet but today I jumpered out the temp. switch that cycles the compressor and it seemed to work fine. It put out 45 deg. air and the low pressure hose was not frosting up. Wed. I'll take it to a 4th gathering as a mobile hotel. The drive will be about an hour or so which will be enough to see what it does. If it fails then I'll work on it again when I get it back home. Expansion valve replacement will be the next thing. The system has a lot of green goo in it so I would not be surprised that the exp. valve was gummed up.
Thanks for all the advice,
In dry AZ I run full time with the thermostat switch disconnected since the chance of icing up here is next to impossible, but you may not be that lucky in FL. However, it will help you determine where the problem is. That switch has several inherent issues--it can be dislodged and not in the correct position, or it can be misadjusted.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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Re: Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #254009 is a reply to message #253977] |
Tue, 01 July 2014 16:50 |
Rick Williams
Messages: 256 Registered: July 2004
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Fred referenced a comment by Roy some time ago about mounting the bulb for the switch on the low pressure side somewhere instead of in the evaporator. Roy, would you please comment. Or anyone else who has tried this option. Thanks.
Rick
Rick Williams
Bliss, Michigan
1978 Eleganza II
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Re: Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #254047 is a reply to message #254009] |
Tue, 01 July 2014 22:21 |
Bullitthead
Messages: 1411 Registered: November 2013
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Rick,
I have seen many expansion valve bulbs clamped to the low line BEFORE the evaporator but have not seen one on the line AFTER the evap. All the thermo switches I've seen had the capillary tube stuck into the evaporator fins. If the thermo switch was not adjustable in a system that was cutting off before it was cold enough, I would try taping the tube tightly to the low line AFTER the evaporator to see what kind of results I got.
Fred,
That green stuff should be the dye used to spot leaks with a UV light. It will be mixed with oil from the system. If it is sticky and goopy, you may have some concoction of different oils and etc. in there that probably should be removed and the system flushed and vacuumed and refilled.
Terry Kelpien
ASE Master Technician
73 Glacier 260
Smithfield, Va.
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Re: Dash AC Duracool gauge readings? [message #254069 is a reply to message #254009] |
Wed, 02 July 2014 00:51 |
roy1
Messages: 2126 Registered: July 2004 Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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Rick Williams wrote on Tue, 01 July 2014 14:50Fred referenced a comment by Roy some time ago about mounting the bulb for the switch on the low pressure side somewhere instead of in the evaporator. Roy, would you please comment. Or anyone else who has tried this option. Thanks.
Rick
Yes I disconnected the existing thermostat in the blower box as I was tired of it cycling off the compressor just as I was getting cool. I instead mounted a remote bulb thermostat control with the bulb clamped to the suction line as it comes out of the box and wrapped it with insulating tape. I set it just above freezing . The compressor no longer cycles on and off like it used to and if the suction line tries to ice up it will cycle the compressor off. I. Have done this on some commercial units when the bulb in the coil didn't have the desired effect. Some people would set the room thermostat to 60 degrees and freeze the coil overnight and call the next day with a froze coil. This way I eliminated unnecessary callbacks. Some folks just jumper out that control in their GMC but then they don't have any freeze protection and are exposing the compressor to refrigerant slugging which is not something you want to happen.
In the late 60's and early 70's GM had a pressure regulator assembly mounted to the suction line at the firewall it functioned like a hot gas bypass to maintain a set suction pressure this is very nice way to control the evap temperature but I'm sure the cost was too high so they stopped doing it.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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