| Replacing the Water Heater Element [message #252964] |
Sun, 22 June 2014 20:08  |
bhayes
Messages: 263
Registered: March 2010
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Okay, this may be plumbing 101, but I cannot for the life of me get a new water heater element to seal.
I have one of the newer stainless steel tanks that I purchased from JimK a few years ago that has worked great. But I inadvertently left the thing on with no water in the tank, and toasted the element. After reading some comments here, I purchased a 240v 4000 watt Camco (see http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKBX2O/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for more info).
It seems that the gasket just doesn't seat properly. I tighten it down, it holds pressure for a few minutes, and then water starts shooting out from underneath the gasket. I also tried a 110v 1000 watt Camco that I picked up from a local trailer supply place, but the same thing happens.
Would Teflon tape or pipe dope help? I wasn't sure about putting something like that on a heating element.
Bryan Hayes
'76 Eleganza II
Salt Lake City, Utah
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing the Water Heater Element [message #252966 is a reply to message #252964] |
Sun, 22 June 2014 20:18  |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Brian,
Teflon tape or teflon paste should work just fine. The rubber gasket is useless, throw it away when using the tape or paste. The rubber gaskets gets pushed out and doesn’t seal work a damn.
JR Wright
78 Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion
Michigan
On Jun 22, 2014, at 9:09 PM, Bryan Hayes wrote:
> Okay, this may be plumbing 101, but I cannot for the life of me get a new water heater element to seal.
>
> I have one of the newer stainless steel tanks that I purchased from JimK a few years ago that has worked great. But I inadvertently left the thing on
> with no water in the tank, and toasted the element. After reading some comments here, I purchased a 240v 4000 watt Camco (see
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKBX2O/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for more info).
>
> It seems that the gasket just doesn't seat properly. I tighten it down, it holds pressure for a few minutes, and then water starts shooting out from
> underneath the gasket. I also tried a 110v 1000 watt Camco that I picked up from a local trailer supply place, but the same thing happens.
>
> Would Teflon tape or pipe dope help? I wasn't sure about putting something like that on a heating element.
> --
> Bryan Hayes
> '76 Eleganza II
> Salt Lake City, Utah
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing the Water Heater Element [message #253002 is a reply to message #252964] |
Mon, 23 June 2014 09:31 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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Take wire brushes to the threads of the heater to rid those threads of rust???
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ~ TZE166V101966 ~ ~ ~ ~
~ ~ ~ '76 ex-Palm Beach ~ ~ ~
~~ k2gkk + hotmail dot com ~~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
______________
*[ ]~~~[][ ][|\
*--OO--[]---O-*
> Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2014 19:09:07 -0600
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: hayesnet1@gmail.com
> Subject: [GMCnet] Replacing the Water Heater Element
>
> Okay, this may be plumbing 101, but I cannot for the life of me get a new water heater element to seal.
>
> I have one of the newer stainless steel tanks that I purchased from JimK a few years ago that has worked great. But I inadvertently left the thing on
> with no water in the tank, and toasted the element. After reading some comments here, I purchased a 240v 4000 watt Camco (see
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKBX2O/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for more info).
>
> It seems that the gasket just doesn't seat properly. I tighten it down, it holds pressure for a few minutes, and then water starts shooting out from
> underneath the gasket. I also tried a 110v 1000 watt Camco that I picked up from a local trailer supply place, but the same thing happens.
>
> Would Teflon tape or pipe dope help? I wasn't sure about putting something like that on a heating element.
> --
> Bryan Hayes
> '76 Eleganza II
> Salt Lake City, Utah
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing the Water Heater Element [message #253015 is a reply to message #253002] |
Mon, 23 June 2014 12:39 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1500
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Use a brush normally used for cleaning interior of copper pipe fittings.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-4-in-1-Fitting-Brush-313482/202078158?keyword=copper+pipe+brush
On Mon, Jun 23, 2014 at 8:31 AM, D C _Mac_ Macdonald
wrote:
> Take wire brushes to the threads of the heater to rid those threads of
> rust???
>
> ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
> ~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
> ~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
> ~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
> ~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
> ~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
> ~ ~ ~ ~ TZE166V101966 ~ ~ ~ ~
> ~ ~ ~ '76 ex-Palm Beach ~ ~ ~
> ~~ k2gkk + hotmail dot com ~~
> ~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
> ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
> ______________
> *[ ]~~~[][ ][|\
> *--OO--[]---O-*
>
>> Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2014 19:09:07 -0600
>> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
>> From: hayesnet1@gmail.com
>> Subject: [GMCnet] Replacing the Water Heater Element
>>
>> Okay, this may be plumbing 101, but I cannot for the life of me get a
> new water heater element to seal.
>>
>> I have one of the newer stainless steel tanks that I purchased from JimK
> a few years ago that has worked great. But I inadvertently left the thing on
>> with no water in the tank, and toasted the element. After reading some
> comments here, I purchased a 240v 4000 watt Camco (see
>>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKBX2O/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> for more info).
>>
>> It seems that the gasket just doesn't seat properly. I tighten it down,
> it holds pressure for a few minutes, and then water starts shooting out from
>> underneath the gasket. I also tried a 110v 1000 watt Camco that I picked
> up from a local trailer supply place, but the same thing happens.
>>
>> Would Teflon tape or pipe dope help? I wasn't sure about putting
> something like that on a heating element.
>> --
>> Bryan Hayes
>> '76 Eleganza II
>> Salt Lake City, Utah
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing the Water Heater Element [message #253336 is a reply to message #253333] |
Thu, 26 June 2014 11:13 |
roy1
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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bhayes wrote on Thu, 26 June 2014 09:00Thanks for the suggestions. I had to use Teflon tape AND and pipe dope to finally get it to seal. Neither on their own did the job. So far it seems to be holding.
In my opinion that is the best way to insure a pipe won't leak.i learned it the hard way early.in my career I drained the heating piping of a 3 story apartment building to the bottom floor to replace a valve on the bottom floor and used Teflon tape on the new valve I refilled the building and the damn thing dripped no matter how tight I made it. Had to empty the building again and use dope and tape to fix it. From then on I used both when I didn't want any dripping.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing the Water Heater Element [message #253721 is a reply to message #253336] |
Sun, 29 June 2014 21:33 |
bhayes
Messages: 263
Registered: March 2010
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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roy1 wrote on Thu, 26 June 2014 10:13In my opinion that is the best way to insure a pipe won't leak.i learned it the hard way early.in my career I drained the heating piping of a 3 story apartment building to the bottom floor to replace a valve on the bottom floor and used Teflon tape on the new valve I refilled the building and the damn thing dripped no matter how tight I made it. Had to empty the building again and use dope and tape to fix it. From then on I used both when I didn't want any dripping.
Great story, Roy! I had to refill the fresh water tank several times because each time I'd discover the element was still leaking, I had to drain and refill the water heater on the next try. And I'm really lamenting the fact that I didn't put a ball valve on the bottom of the water heater.
Bryan Hayes
'76 Eleganza II
Salt Lake City, Utah
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing the Water Heater Element [message #253727 is a reply to message #253336] |
Sun, 29 June 2014 21:56 |
lotsofspareparts
Messages: 726
Registered: May 2014
Location: Arlington, WA
Karma: -9
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Senior Member |
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roy1 wrote on Thu, 26 June 2014 09:13bhayes wrote on Thu, 26 June 2014 09:00Thanks for the suggestions. I had to use Teflon tape AND and pipe dope to finally get it to seal. Neither on their own did the job. So far it seems to be holding.
In my opinion that is the best way to insure a pipe won't leak.i learned it the hard way early.in my career I drained the heating piping of a 3 story apartment building to the bottom floor to replace a valve on the bottom floor and used Teflon tape on the new valve I refilled the building and the damn thing dripped no matter how tight I made it. Had to empty the building again and use dope and tape to fix it. From then on I used both when I didn't want any dripping.
When installing the brass water line fittings in the water heaters I install at work, I always use Teflon tape, and pipe dope with PTFE.
Seems to be the best combo that works under pressure.
Jared
Jared & Tina Lazaron + 14yr old Daughter.....
77 Eleganza II "Recherché".....
73 Canyon Lands 230 "Elephant"
[Updated on: Sun, 29 June 2014 21:57] Report message to a moderator |
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