Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves
Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250925] |
Thu, 29 May 2014 17:20 |
Tom Whitton
Messages: 235 Registered: February 2004 Location: Paducah, KY
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I am flushing the 10-year old brake fluid from the system and bleeding the air out using a pistol-grip vacuum bleeder. As anyone who has attempted this knows, it is not easy to get all the air out. I believe the bleeder valves now on my coach are a straight-through design. It appears to me that there is a possibility of introducing air into the system when the valve is open, essentially through the threads. There is another bleeder valve design that has a spring loaded ball inside that could help prevent air being introduced while the valve is open. What do you guys think? If one design is better than another now would be the time to make the change. I'm building a pressure bleeder at the moment in the hope of finally doing a good job of getting the air out. Frankly, I'm not sure if I've ever had all the air out of the system in the 13-years I've owned the coach.
Appreciate thoughts on which bleeder valve design is best?
Thanks,
Tom Whitton
26 foot updated GMC
Paducah, KY
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250927 is a reply to message #250925] |
Thu, 29 May 2014 17:34 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446 Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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The bleeder valve is just fine having been used on millions of vehicles. You just open it enough to get the fluid flowing. I personally gravity bleed my brake first. Then use a pneumatic fluid bleeder to finish. Buy this one as you cannot make it this cheap.
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
JR Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
78 GMC Buskirk 30’ Stretch
1975 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
On May 29, 2014, at 6:20 PM, Tom Whitton wrote:
> I am flushing the 10-year old brake fluid from the system and bleeding the air out using a pistol-grip vacuum bleeder. As anyone who has attempted this knows, it is not easy to get all the air out. I believe the bleeder valves now on my coach are a straight-through design. It appears to me that there is a possibility of introducing air into the system when the valve is open, essentially through the threads. There is another bleeder valve design that has a spring loaded ball inside that could help prevent air being introduced while the valve is open. What do you guys think? If one design is better than another now would be the time to make the change. I'm building a pressure bleeder at the moment in the hope of finally doing a good job of getting the air out. Frankly, I'm not sure if I've ever had all the air out of the system in the 13-years I've owned the coach.
>
> Appreciate thoughts on which bleeder valve design is best?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Whitton
> 26 foot updated GMC
> Paducah, KY
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250930 is a reply to message #250927] |
Thu, 29 May 2014 17:55 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501 Registered: October 2011 Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
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I had the same problem last year with my bleeder valves sucking small
amounts of air.
I believe it was Matt C. that suggested to wrap plumbers tape on the
bleeder screw threads. That worked for me.
On Thu, May 29, 2014 at 4:34 PM, John Wright wrote:
> The bleeder valve is just fine having been used on millions of vehicles.
> You just open it enough to get the fluid flowing. I personally gravity
> bleed my brake first. Then use a pneumatic fluid bleeder to finish. Buy
> this one as you cannot make it this cheap.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
>
> JR Wright
> GMC Great Laker MHC
> GMC Eastern States
> GMCMHI
> 78 GMC Buskirk 30' Stretch
> 1975 GMC Avion (Under Reconstruction)
> Michigan
>
> On May 29, 2014, at 6:20 PM, Tom Whitton wrote:
>
>> I am flushing the 10-year old brake fluid from the system and bleeding
> the air out using a pistol-grip vacuum bleeder. As anyone who has
> attempted this knows, it is not easy to get all the air out. I believe the
> bleeder valves now on my coach are a straight-through design. It appears
> to me that there is a possibility of introducing air into the system when
> the valve is open, essentially through the threads. There is another
> bleeder valve design that has a spring loaded ball inside that could help
> prevent air being introduced while the valve is open. What do you guys
> think? If one design is better than another now would be the time to make
> the change. I'm building a pressure bleeder at the moment in the hope of
> finally doing a good job of getting the air out. Frankly, I'm not sure if
> I've ever had all the air out of the system in the 13-years I've owned the
> coach.
>>
>> Appreciate thoughts on which bleeder valve design is best?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Tom Whitton
>> 26 foot updated GMC
>> Paducah, KY
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
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Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250931 is a reply to message #250925] |
Thu, 29 May 2014 18:04 |
GMC.LES
Messages: 505 Registered: April 2014
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I just apply some grease to the bleeder threads to prevent the slight air leakage when using the vaccum pump method.
As far as the checkvalve type bleeder screws, they won't solve the air leak past the threads as the check valve is inside the screw. The theory behind them is that when using the pedal pump method, you reduce the risk of air being sucked back into the system. I believe I even read that they recommend sealing the threads on those check valve bleeders with grease or a semi-soft paste sealant.
Les Burt
Montreal
1975 Eleganza 26ft
A work in Progress
On May 29, 2014, at 6:20 PM, "Tom Whitton" wrote:
I am flushing the 10-year old brake fluid from the system and bleeding the air out using a pistol-grip vacuum bleeder. As anyone who has attempted this knows, it is not easy to get all the air out. I believe the bleeder valves now on my coach are a straight-through design. It appears to me that there is a possibility of introducing air into the system when the valve is open, essentially through the threads. There is another bleeder valve design that has a spring loaded ball inside that could help prevent air being introduced while the valve is open. What do you guys think? If one design is better than another now would be the time to make the change. I'm building a pressure bleeder at the moment in the hope of finally doing a good job of getting the air out. Frankly, I'm not sure if I've ever had all the air out of the system in the 13-years I've owned the coach.
Appreciate thoughts on which bleeder valve design is best?
Thanks,
Tom Whitton
26 foot updated GMC
Paducah, KY
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250939 is a reply to message #250931] |
Thu, 29 May 2014 18:46 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806 Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Use a pressure bleeder.
Jim Hupy
On Thu, May 29, 2014 at 4:04 PM, Les Burt wrote:
> I just apply some grease to the bleeder threads to prevent the slight air
> leakage when using the vaccum pump method.
>
> As far as the checkvalve type bleeder screws, they won't solve the air
> leak past the threads as the check valve is inside the screw. The theory
> behind them is that when using the pedal pump method, you reduce the risk
> of air being sucked back into the system. I believe I even read that they
> recommend sealing the threads on those check valve bleeders with grease or
> a semi-soft paste sealant.
>
> Les Burt
> Montreal
> 1975 Eleganza 26ft
> A work in Progress
>
>
>
> On May 29, 2014, at 6:20 PM, "Tom Whitton"
> wrote:
>
> I am flushing the 10-year old brake fluid from the system and bleeding the
> air out using a pistol-grip vacuum bleeder. As anyone who has attempted
> this knows, it is not easy to get all the air out. I believe the bleeder
> valves now on my coach are a straight-through design. It appears to me
> that there is a possibility of introducing air into the system when the
> valve is open, essentially through the threads. There is another bleeder
> valve design that has a spring loaded ball inside that could help prevent
> air being introduced while the valve is open. What do you guys think? If
> one design is better than another now would be the time to make the change.
> I'm building a pressure bleeder at the moment in the hope of finally doing
> a good job of getting the air out. Frankly, I'm not sure if I've ever had
> all the air out of the system in the 13-years I've owned the coach.
>
> Appreciate thoughts on which bleeder valve design is best?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Whitton
> 26 foot updated GMC
> Paducah, KY
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250955 is a reply to message #250939] |
Thu, 29 May 2014 21:58 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260 Registered: January 2004 Location: Chandler, AZ
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James Hupy wrote on Thu, 29 May 2014 17:46Use a pressure bleeder.
Jim Hupy
On Thu, May 29, 2014 at 4:04 PM, Les Burt wrote:
> I just apply some grease to the bleeder threads to prevent the slight air
> leakage when using the vaccum pump method.
>
> As far as the checkvalve type bleeder screws, they won't solve the air
> leak past the threads as the check valve is inside the screw. The theory
> behind them is that when using the pedal pump method, you reduce the risk
> of air being sucked back into the system. I believe I even read that they
> recommend sealing the threads on those check valve bleeders with grease or
> a semi-soft paste sealant.
>
> Les Burt
> Montreal
> 1975 Eleganza 26ft
> A work in Progress
>
>
>
> On May 29, 2014, at 6:20 PM, "Tom Whitton"
> wrote:
>
> I am flushing the 10-year old brake fluid from the system and bleeding the
> air out using a pistol-grip vacuum bleeder. As anyone who has attempted
> this knows, it is not easy to get all the air out. I believe the bleeder
> valves now on my coach are a straight-through design. It appears to me
> that there is a possibility of introducing air into the system when the
> valve is open, essentially through the threads. There is another bleeder
> valve design that has a spring loaded ball inside that could help prevent
> air being introduced while the valve is open. What do you guys think? If
> one design is better than another now would be the time to make the change.
> I'm building a pressure bleeder at the moment in the hope of finally doing
> a good job of getting the air out. Frankly, I'm not sure if I've ever had
> all the air out of the system in the 13-years I've owned the coach.
>
> Appreciate thoughts on which bleeder valve design is best?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Whitton
> 26 foot updated GMC
> Paducah, KY
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
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> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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And use the master cylinder adapter that Jim makes--first class !
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250956 is a reply to message #250930] |
Thu, 29 May 2014 22:00 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Bruce Hart wrote on Thu, 29 May 2014 18:55I had the same problem last year with my bleeder valves sucking small amounts of air.
I believe it was Matt C. that suggested to wrap plumbers tape on the bleeder screw threads. That worked for me.
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
That would be a really great idea - if it was mine.....
For years I have been coating bleed screws with teflon thread sealer to great advantage. I did this for two reasons and the primary was to keep the bleed screw threads from corroding. Secondly, I made vacuum bleeding much more effective. Many decades gone now, I got tired of removing corroded bled screws. So, I took up protecting the threads, first with heavy grease and later telfon based thread sealant when the brake fluid got to the grease. That and the bleed screw covers that became common in the late 80's have made my brake work far more productive.
The disadvantage being that it only lasted a couple of bleedings before it needed to be redone. Then Chuck Boyd and I were talking (or discussing on the net - I really don't remember which) and he said he had been using teflon tape the same way. I changed to teflon tape and still use it. It will keep doing the job as long as you have that bleed screw.
Why do I vacuum bleed when pressure bleeders are so popular in this group??
Simple.
Because of my economic situation, my rolling stock is both very senior and pieces are replaced pretty irregularly. They are all different. No single pressure bleed set would ever work. Many of the plastic reservoirs leak at the master cylinder at relatively low (~10 psi) pressure. I have a basket full of reservoir caps with fittings that I made over the years. They are all useless now but they were too much work to just toss out.....
Vacuum bleeding is all the same. The single piece of silicon rubber hose fits any bleed screw. The IV bottle like reservoir filler the I have works on every thing but a GMC. There the open "hood" does not high enough to hang the bottle, so I have to recruit someone to keep the reservoir at a working level. I have a cheap little surplus vacuum pump and a jar with two 1/8 copper lines soldered into the top and it works for everything and is very clean.
Vacuum bleeding has an interesting side value. If you have to do major brake work, you can suck the system dry and not end up with brake fluid allover your hands and cloths. It all gets collected in the jar and you can pour it off into and old coolant jug. In the near future I am going to replace the rear calipers on a 1995 Accord recently inherited from a dear friend. I will do it all with no puddle of brake fluid on my shop floor.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250962 is a reply to message #250956] |
Thu, 29 May 2014 22:22 |
Kingsley Coach
Messages: 2691 Registered: March 2009 Location: Nova Scotia Canada
Karma: -34
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Senior Member |
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Find a friend and bleed the brakes the old fashion way.
Man slowing pumping brake, board under the pedal, and yourself at the
bleeder screw, start at the furtherest from the M/C.
If you need more info, let me know.
It's fast and effective and removes ALL the air.
Mike in NS
On Fri, May 30, 2014 at 12:00 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
> Bruce Hart wrote on Thu, 29 May 2014 18:55
>> I had the same problem last year with my bleeder valves sucking small
> amounts of air.
>> I believe it was Matt C. that suggested to wrap plumbers tape on the
> bleeder screw threads. That worked for me.
>> --
>> Bruce Hart
>> 1976 Palm Beach
>
> That would be a really great idea - if it was mine.....
> For years I have been coating bleed screws with teflon thread sealer to
> great advantage. I did this for two reasons and the primary was to keep the
> bleed screw threads from corroding. Secondly, I made vacuum bleeding much
> more effective. Many decades gone now, I got tired of removing corroded
> bled screws. So, I took up protecting the threads, first with heavy
> grease and later telfon based thread sealant when the brake fluid got to the
> grease. That and the bleed screw covers that became common in the late
> 80's have made my brake work far more productive.
>
> The disadvantage being that it only lasted a couple of bleedings before it
> needed to be redone. Then Chuck Boyd and I were talking (or discussing on
> the net - I really don't remember which) and he said he had been using
> teflon tape the same way. I changed to teflon tape and still use it. It
> will
> keep doing the job as long as you have that bleed screw.
>
> Why do I vacuum bleed when pressure bleeders are so popular in this group??
> Simple.
> Because of my economic situation, my rolling stock is both very senior and
> pieces are replaced pretty irregularly. They are all different. No single
> pressure bleed set would ever work. Many of the plastic reservoirs leak
> at the master cylinder at relatively low (~10 psi) pressure. I have a
> basket
> full of reservoir caps with fittings that I made over the years. They are
> all useless now but they were too much work to just toss out.....
>
> Vacuum bleeding is all the same. The single piece of silicon rubber hose
> fits any bleed screw. The IV bottle like reservoir filler the I have works
> on every thing but a GMC. There the open "hood" does not high enough to
> hang the bottle, so I have to recruit someone to keep the reservoir at a
> working level. I have a cheap little surplus vacuum pump and a jar with
> two 1/8 copper lines soldered into the top and it works for everything and
> is
> very clean.
>
> Vacuum bleeding has an interesting side value. If you have to do major
> brake work, you can suck the system dry and not end up with brake fluid
> allover your hands and cloths. It all gets collected in the jar and you
> can pour it off into and old coolant jug. In the near future I am going to
> replace the rear calipers on a 1995 Accord recently inherited from a dear
> friend. I will do it all with no puddle of brake fluid on my shop floor.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCES
> '73 Glacier 23 With 4 Rear Brakes that pull as they should
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
--
Michael Beaton
1977 Kingsley 26-11
1977 Eleganza II 26-3
Antigonish, NS
* This is my second trip through the 60's; the first time the drugs were
better !
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250971 is a reply to message #250925] |
Thu, 29 May 2014 22:55 |
Tom Whitton
Messages: 235 Registered: February 2004 Location: Paducah, KY
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As usual you guys have provided good ideas.
Here's what I'm going to do tomorrow.
I'll continue building my pressure bleeder using a plastic garden sprayer that I bought yesterday at the local farm store. Rob, since I'm already building my own I'm going to proceed. I like building things so since I'm underway, I'll develop it here this time rather than buy from a fellow GMCer. I think I'm going to go ahead and pick up bleeder valves with the ball check inside. Before I install them I'll wrap the threads with Teflon tape, as suggested. Thanks, Peter and Matt. I'll let you guys know how all this works out. I'm determined to get all the air out this time around. BTW, the pistol-grip vacuum bleeder that I'm using with limited success came from AutoZone. I decided on it rather than the HF model that looks nearly the same but through the plastic packaging seemed to be lacking a little in quality. The price difference with my 20% off HF coupon was only $4.00. I think it was $4.00 extra well spent. Regardless, it hasn't quite done the job on the GMC.
It will probably work better on a car rather than a motorhome with long brakes lines. Hopefully, the pressure bleeder will do better. Stay tuned.
Thanks, gentlemen.
Tom Whitton
26 foot updated GMC
Paducah, KY
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250989 is a reply to message #250971] |
Fri, 30 May 2014 03:30 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Tom,
The key to a easy to use pressure bleeder is the plate that goes on top of the M/C and how it is attached to the M/C.
Make the tank and buy the plate from Jim for $35 plus shipping. He can sell them so cheap as he has a source of off cuts or THICK
aluminum. IIRC he uses 3/4" or 5/8" thick plate.
I don't know if that includes the cables or not.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Whitton
As usual you guys have provided good ideas.
Here's what I'm going to do tomorrow.
I'll continue building my pressure bleeder using a plastic garden sprayer that I bought yesterday at the local farm store. Rob,
since I'm already building my own I'm going to proceed. I like building things so since I'm underway, I'll develop it here this
time rather than buy from a fellow GMCer. I think I'm going to go ahead and pick up bleeder valves with the ball check inside.
Before I install them I'll wrap the threads with Teflon tape, as suggested. Thanks, Peter and Matt. I'll let you guys know how all
this works out. I'm determined to get all the air out this time around. BTW, the pistol-grip vacuum bleeder that I'm using with
limited success came from AutoZone. I decided on it rather than the HF model that looks nearly the same but through the plastic
packaging seemed to be lacking a little in quality. The price difference with my 20% off HF coupon was only $4.00. I think it was
$4.00 extra well spent. Regardless, it hasn't quite done the job on the GMC.
It will probably work better on a car rather than a motorhome with long brakes lines. Hopefully, the pressure bleeder will do
better. Stay tuned.
Thanks, gentlemen.
Tom Whitton
26 foot updated GMC
Paducah, KY
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250990 is a reply to message #250989] |
Fri, 30 May 2014 04:33 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117 Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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As many have said
Connection to the master cyl is the answer to the pressure bleed system
http://gmcmotorhome.info/brakes.html#press
I use the gravity system,when ever possible (like JR)
Erf
On Friday, May 30, 2014, Robert Mueller wrote:
> Tom,
>
> The key to a easy to use pressure bleeder is the plate that goes on top of
> the M/C and how it is attached to the M/C.
>
> Make the tank and buy the plate from Jim for $35 plus shipping. He can
> sell them so cheap as he has a source of off cuts or THICK
> aluminum. IIRC he uses 3/4" or 5/8" thick plate.
>
> I don't know if that includest the cables or not.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Whitton
>
> As usual you guys have provided good ideas.
>
> Here's what I'm going to do tomorrow.
>
> I'll continue building my pressure bleeder using a plastic garden sprayer
> that I bought yesterday at the local farm store. Rob,
> since I'm already building my own I'm going to proceed. I like building
> things so since I'm underway, I'll develop it here this
> time rather than buy from a fellow GMCer. I think I'm going to go ahead
> and pick up bleeder valves with the ball check inside.
> Before I install them I'll wrap the threads with Teflon tape, as
> suggested. Thanks, Peter and Matt. I'll let you guys know how all
> this works out. I'm determined to get all the air out this time around.
> BTW, the pistol-grip vacuum bleeder that I'm using with
> limited success came from AutoZone. I decided on it rather than the HF
> model that looks nearly the same but through the plastic
> packaging seemed to be lacking a little in quality. The price difference
> with my 20% off HF coupon was only $4.00. I think it was
> $4.00 extra well spent. Regardless, it hasn't quite done the job on the
> GMC.
> It will probably work better on a car rather than a motorhome with long
> brakes lines. Hopefully, the pressure bleeder will do
> better. Stay tuned.
>
> Thanks, gentlemen.
>
> Tom Whitton
> 26 foot updated GMC
> Paducah, KY
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #250998 is a reply to message #250925] |
Fri, 30 May 2014 08:37 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412 Registered: May 2011 Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Having done all three ways on my coach, pressure and suction are both quicker/easier than pump and hold. As infrequently as I blee brakes, the pistol grip suction pump got the nod. George Z lent me his Hupy bleeder for the reaction arm install because I replaced wheel cylinders as well. It works great, is a total PIA to get hooked up... not due to the bleeder, it's just crowded around the MC.
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #251005 is a reply to message #250998] |
Fri, 30 May 2014 09:01 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Johnny,
I'm sorry but I'm going to disagree with this statement "total PIA to get hooked up." I have used Jim's bleeder many times and I
agree the FIRST time was a PITA, however, after I did it a few times and developed a technique it's a piece of cake. I'll be
flushing the brake fluid in Double Trouble and I'll time the process from start to stop and report how long it took.
There is another benefit for this bleeder, you and fill it with enough fluid to flush the complete brake system. The vacuum bleeder
that HF sells comes with a bottle that you stand up in the M/C to keep filling it but it won't work in a GMC. You have to rig up
something to keep filling the M/C as you suck fluid out of each wheel cylinder / caliper.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Johnny Bridges
Having done all three ways on my coach, pressure and suction are both quicker/easier than pump and hold. As infrequently as I blee
brakes, the pistol grip suction pump got the nod. George Z lent me his Hupy bleeder for the reaction arm install because I replaced
wheel cylinders as well. It works great, is a total PIA to get hooked up... not due to the bleeder, it's just crowded around the
MC.
--johnny
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #251022 is a reply to message #251005] |
Fri, 30 May 2014 12:04 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260 Registered: January 2004 Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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USAussie wrote on Fri, 30 May 2014 08:01Johnny,
I'm sorry but I'm going to disagree with this statement "total PIA to get hooked up." I have used Jim's bleeder many times and I
agree the FIRST time was a PITA, however, after I did it a few times and developed a technique it's a piece of cake. I'll be
flushing the brake fluid in Double Trouble and I'll time the process from start to stop and report how long it took.
There is another benefit for this bleeder, you and fill it with enough fluid to flush the complete brake system. The vacuum bleeder
that HF sells comes with a bottle that you stand up in the M/C to keep filling it but it won't work in a GMC. You have to rig up
something to keep filling the M/C as you suck fluid out of each wheel cylinder / caliper.
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Johnny Bridges
Having done all three ways on my coach, pressure and suction are both quicker/easier than pump and hold. As infrequently as I blee
brakes, the pistol grip suction pump got the nod. George Z lent me his Hupy bleeder for the reaction arm install because I replaced
wheel cylinders as well. It works great, is a total PIA to get hooked up... not due to the bleeder, it's just crowded around the
MC.
--johnny
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Sometimes depending on the configuration of the brake system, I think the velocity or speed of the fluid being bled has an effect. I personally think the faster the better in order to help with some of those "dead spots" where air can sit.
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #251025 is a reply to message #250925] |
Fri, 30 May 2014 12:56 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324 Registered: October 2010 Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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I have to second Rob's opinion. Jim's bleeder is slick. I have used it on a few cars, and my gmc about 3-4 times(I should of replaced all break parts once, not piece by piece). no questions about bleeding brakes, it just gets the job done quickly. I now buy brake fluid by the gallon, and wait for a friend who needs help with their brake bleeding.
it can be a little bit of a challenge to get it square and sealed. but not that bad, if you understand what to watch for. Much easier then trying to move that vacuum bleeder to all 6 bleeders, and refilling the master, making sure hoses do not pop off. I know I can bleed all the brakes in just a few minutes in the coach, and I do not need to take off any tires.
I am going to have to talk to Jim to see his new mounting method. the one i hav uses chain.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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Re: [GMCnet] Bleeder Valves [message #251085 is a reply to message #250925] |
Sat, 31 May 2014 08:41 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412 Registered: May 2011 Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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I'm lazy. Space around the MC is limited. The connection process is a pain relative to a piece of hose or nothing, the comment stands. The pressure system is however the only one person setup of the three. For the vacuunm bleeder, the friend who was going to pump the pedal stands up front with fluid and funnel and keeps the reservoirs full.
Not to say pressure isn't the best way to do it, just it's ticky to hook up.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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