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Macerator Wiring [message #242457] Thu, 06 March 2014 08:34 Go to next message
mickey szilagyi is currently offline  mickey szilagyi   United States
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Getting ready to install a new macerator and the instructions call for #142.5 size for 10 to 25 feet. I see that's a marine size. Is that the same as 14 gage braided wire, like automotive wire?

We're also looking to use a 12V 20A toggle switch with a flip cover to prevent accidentally turning it on along with a push button reset 20 amp breaker.

It might get above freezing this weekend, WOW!

Thanks again as always.


Mickey 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
Re: [GMCnet] Macerator Wiring [message #242460 is a reply to message #242457] Thu, 06 March 2014 08:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
emerystora is currently offline  emerystora   United States
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I would suggest as large a gauge as you can to prevent voltage drop. . I believe I used 12 gauge. 10 would be even better.

Emery Stora

> On Mar 6, 2014, at 7:34 AM, Mickey Szilagyi <mickey@apex-internet.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Getting ready to install a new macerator and the instructions call for #142.5 size for 10 to 25 feet. I see that's a marine size. Is that the same as 14 gage braided wire, like automotive wire?
>
> We're also looking to use a 12V 20A toggle switch with a flip cover to prevent accidentally turning it on along with a push button reset 20 amp breaker.
>
> It might get above freezing this weekend, WOW!
>
> Thanks again as always.
> --
> Mickey
> 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
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Re: Macerator Wiring [message #242471 is a reply to message #242457] Thu, 06 March 2014 10:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickey szilagyi is currently offline  mickey szilagyi   United States
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Thanks Emery. We have some leftover 7 stand 12/2 gauge wire used for our well pump that should work just fine. I keep thinking 12V current doesn't need such a heavy wire but I'm guessing it's the amps rather than the volts that determines wire size? We use 12 gauge wire for our 20 amp house wiring. That makes more sense as the battery cables we use are quite heavy - high amps, still 12V.

Just don't want to do the macerator wiring twice.

Thanks again,


Mickey 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
Re: Macerator Wiring [message #242492 is a reply to message #242457] Thu, 06 March 2014 11:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
WildBill   Canada
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These are my favorite switches, screw terminals, sealed, worth the money IMO.
http://sensing.honeywell.com/index.php?ci_id=4128&la_id=1&Ntk=si_all_products&N=1235&Ntt=1TL1-2

Heres some covers, I have seen them from $2.00 up to about $20.00 so there are differences in quality im sure.

http://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/elpages/mtllevswitches.php

Im going to wire mine from the house battery so it will only have about a 5' run. I use a lot of this type wire. Prefer running a ground back and not relying on a frame connection.

http://www.grote.com/cgi-bin/goc/goc.cgi?product_number=82-5509
Re: Macerator Wiring [message #242498 is a reply to message #242457] Thu, 06 March 2014 12:30 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickey szilagyi is currently offline  mickey szilagyi   United States
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Thanks Bill,

I'm confused on the amp ratings of the switches. Is it necessary to have a switch rated at 20 amps since the circuit has a 20 amp breaker and the macerator calls for a 20 amp breaker and can possibly draw that much current. Or not.


Mickey 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
Re: [GMCnet] Macerator Wiring [message #242504 is a reply to message #242498] Thu, 06 March 2014 13:15 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jhbridges is currently offline  jhbridges   United States
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That would be "Yes".  The switch should be capable of breaking the rated current without damage.

--johnny


________________________________
From: Mickey Szilagyi <mickey@apex-internet.com>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Thursday, March 6, 2014 1:30 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Macerator Wiring




Thanks Bill,

I'm confused on the amp ratings of the switches.  Is it necessary to have a switch rated at 20 amps since the circuit has a 20 amp breaker and the macerator calls for a 20 amp breaker and can possibly draw that much current.  Or not.

--
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons. Braselton, Ga. I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
Re: Macerator Wiring [message #242523 is a reply to message #242457] Thu, 06 March 2014 16:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Carl S. is currently offline  Carl S.   United States
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mickey szilagyi wrote on Thu, 06 March 2014 07:34

Getting ready to install a new macerator and the instructions call for #142.5 size for 10 to 25 feet. I see that's a marine size. Is that the same as 14 gage braided wire, like automotive wire?

We're also looking to use a 12V 20A toggle switch with a flip cover to prevent accidentally turning it on along with a push button reset 20 amp breaker.

It might get above freezing this weekend, WOW!

Thanks again as always.



My PO installed macerator is wired from the house battery (very short run) with 12g wire. It overheats and trips the self resetting circuit breaker sometimes on a hot day. I would do as Emery says and use the 10g wire.


Carl Stouffer '75 ex Palm Beach Tucson, AZ. Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
Re: Macerator Wiring [message #242534 is a reply to message #242457] Thu, 06 March 2014 16:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
WildBill   Canada
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You can use a Double pole single throw switch. With the Honeywell its a 2TL1-2, http://sensing.honeywell.com/product%20page?pr_id=35722
That will get you a switch with 2 20 amp circuits that you can tie together for less voltage drop. Screws are tiny on these switches so I would probably Y 2 12 gauge from the switch to your 10 to the pump or use a 1TL1-2 and 16 or 18 gauge to switch a Cole Herse 24059 solenoid. http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/167/24059/ Mount the solenoid big end down (Cole Herse recommendation, longer life, any evaporated copper falls to the big end and doesn't jam up the solenoid plunger) close enough so you can terminate the pumps original wiring to the 5/16" stud and run the 10 gauge to the solenoid hot. Mounting the solenoid to the frame or frame mounted bracket I would do a lug to one of the solenoid mount bolts and the original pump wiring ground on top of it. Dielectric grease because its a shitty environment even on the mount bracket bolts. The 10 gauge ground to the solenoid would act as a supplementary ground for other things that are grounded to the frame and thats "almost" never a bad thing. The 24059 solenoid has terminals for both sides of the solenoid coil so one of them needs to be grounded. Your choice on auto reset circuit breaker or manual reset. Manual reset holds rated load better over a lifetime than auto reset IMO. With 10 gauge short run from rear battery even 30 to 35 amp breaker should be safe. You should be able to hear if pump is jammed and not turning. Smaller breaker less chance of burning up the motor if jammed, I still think 3 position switch to reverse polarity to get pump to turn backwards and potentially clear jam but I'll have to buy one and take it apart before making that recommendation to anyone else.

The 2 switches listed above with the standard switch bat work with the switch covers in the previous posts.

[Updated on: Thu, 06 March 2014 17:01]

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Re: Macerator Wiring [message #242548 is a reply to message #242523] Thu, 06 March 2014 18:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Carl S. wrote on Thu, 06 March 2014 17:04

mickey szilagyi wrote on Thu, 06 March 2014 07:34

Getting ready to install a new macerator and the instructions call for #142.5 size for 10 to 25 feet. I see that's a marine size. Is that the same as 14 gage braided wire, like automotive wire?

We're also looking to use a 12V 20A toggle switch with a flip cover to prevent accidentally turning it on along with a push button reset 20 amp breaker.

It might get above freezing this weekend, WOW!

Thanks again as always.



My PO installed macerator is wired from the house battery (very short run) with 12g wire. It overheats and trips the self resetting circuit breaker sometimes on a hot day. I would do as Emery says and use the 10g wire.

Mikey,
Last year I only did a couple of wiring jobs. I used to do several K$ in billing just for wiring jobs. I don't usually charge a lot for the labor and the cost of the copper still doesn't amount to all that much. And, as I usually remark to the owner, "You only have to buy the copper once and after that it pays you back=k in the trouble you avoid.

So, for nominal motor load of 20 amps, run #10 you won't regret it.

Matt sitting a tip


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: Macerator Wiring [message #242562 is a reply to message #242534] Thu, 06 March 2014 19:51 Go to previous message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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OK guys, The name of the game is to keep the circuit run as short as possible on high current runs to the macerator.

Th solution is to run the macerator off of the house battery(s) especially if they are rear mounted. Then install a 40 amp rated relay and a 30 amp automatic reset CB near the house battery. Then run the relay coil to a switch or switches to locations of you choosing. I have two switches one in the rear by the Onan and one inside th coach. These switches can be run on very thin 18 or 20 gauge wire while the power to the macerator is run 5 or 6 feet in 12 gauge or 14 gauge wire. The switches can be rated an anything over about 1 amp or so. You do not need to run a ground return from the macerator if you verify that the jumper strap between the body and frame in the Onan cabinet is in good condition.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Novita-4-pin-40-Amps-12-Volts-accessory-relay/_/N-2659?itemIdentifier=203873_0_0_

This one is a little expensive. I would check Advance or another parts store:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Duralast-30-Amp-plastic-circuit-breaker-with-90-degree-mounting-bracket/_/N-2690?itemIdentifier=413294_0_ 0_

I like this switch but choose whatever switch you like:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/KC-HiLiTES-30-Amps-illuminated-rocker-switch/_/N-2696?itemIdentifier=97



Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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