Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] CV axle
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #232982 is a reply to message #232978] |
Thu, 12 December 2013 21:17   |
emerystora
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
|
|
On Dec 12, 2013, at 6:23 PM, Bruce Hart <hartsgmc@gmail.com> wrote:
> I am servicing two cv axles that I got off of a donor coach. One of the
> outer cv joints was galled very bad. My question? Can I order a cv axle
> for a 76 Toronado and replace the axle from the gmc to get the right length
> and use the Toronado inner and outer cv joints.
>
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/CV-Driveshaft-Right-Front-Remfd/_/R-NMD959129_0172999564
>
If you decide to do it yourself or want to give a hint to the person doing the work you can take the axles out without removing the hub and knuckle.
The tie rods do not have to be removed.
For drivers side axle removal take off the shock absorber and jack the lower A frame high enough and then turn the steering to the right and pull the axle out from behind the hub.
The passenger side is easier but you have to also remove the hanging bracket.
For passenger side remove the oil filter, position the steering wheel straight ahead, jack up the A frame enough to slide axle
out of hub by moving inner end to rear where filter was and pull axle out
through the filter area.
Then just order the front axles for a 1975 Olds Tornado. The axles will be longer so you have to swap in your original GMC inner axles. To swap the axles: on the outer joint, remove both clamp straps on the boot, slide boot back & spread the outer snap ring & remove the joint. Then remove the inner snap ring & slid the boot off. Even easier on the inboard joint--remove the can on the end that goes into the driveshaft stub & the clamp strap on the shaft end. DO NOT remove the can from the inside cast part of the housing--it is crimped all the way around. Then spread the snap ring on the end of the shaft & slide the joint enough to clear the snap ring from the groove. Then use a blunt instrument under the small end of the boot to gently work it over the inner snap ring without tearing it & slid boot & joint off shaft. On reassembly, grind down the inner snap ring ears a little to minimize sharp edges & work the boot over it with the blunt instrument (screwdriver with shaf
t bent 90 degrees & the tip rounded off), the rest is the reverse of disassembly. When done, replace boot bands, double wrapping them to get them tight. You will need the band tool to get them tight enough. If you don't want to buy one ($10 to 20) you can use Autozone or Checker's tool loan program to borrow one. Then, slide the old joints onto the Toro shafts (don't worry about snap rings & boots, they replace them anyhow) & take them back & recover the exorbitant core deposit. Use a small file to clean up the splines on the new outer joints where they go into the knuckle. Be sure & check this first for fit--probably save a lot of cussing. All in all, a pretty smooth fairly easy job. They use a heavy grease in the joints--about like chassis lube--easy to scoop out & push back in.
Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Frederick, CO
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #232985 is a reply to message #232982] |
Thu, 12 December 2013 21:51 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Emery,
Didn't someone mention that the splines on the new axles were different from the OEM splines?
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Emery Stora
If you decide to do it yourself or want to give a hint to the person doing the work you can take the axles out without removing the
hub and knuckle.
The tie rods do not have to be removed.
For drivers side axle removal take off the shock absorber and jack the lower A frame high enough and then turn the steering to the
right and pull the axle out from behind the hub.
The passenger side is easier but you have to also remove the hanging bracket.
For passenger side remove the oil filter, position the steering wheel straight ahead, jack up the A frame enough to slide axle
out of hub by moving inner end to rear where filter was and pull axle out
through the filter area.
Then just order the front axles for a 1975 Olds Tornado. The axles will be longer so you have to swap in your original GMC inner
axles. To swap the axles: on the outer joint, remove both clamp straps on the boot, slide boot back & spread the outer snap ring &
remove the joint. Then remove the inner snap ring & slid the boot off. Even easier on the inboard joint--remove the can on the end
that goes into the driveshaft stub & the clamp strap on the shaft end. DO NOT remove the can from the inside cast part of the
housing--it is crimped all the way around. Then spread the snap ring on the end of the shaft & slide the joint enough to clear the
snap ring from the groove. Then use a blunt instrument under the small end of the boot to gently work it over the inner snap ring
without tearing it & slid boot & joint off shaft. On reassembly, grind down the inner snap ring ears a little to minimize sharp
edges & work the boot over it with the blunt instrument (screwdriver with shaf
t bent 90 degrees & the tip rounded off), the rest is the reverse of disassembly. When done, replace boot bands, double wrapping
them to get them tight. You will need the band tool to get them tight enough. If you don't want to buy one ($10 to 20) you can use
Autozone or Checker's tool loan program to borrow one. Then, slide the old joints onto the Toro shafts (don't worry about snap
rings & boots, they replace them anyhow) & take them back & recover the exorbitant core deposit. Use a small file to clean up the
splines on the new outer joints where they go into the knuckle. Be sure & check this first for fit--probably save a lot of cussing.
All in all, a pretty smooth fairly easy job. They use a heavy grease in the joints--about like chassis lube--easy to scoop out &
push back in.
Emery
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #232986 is a reply to message #232985] |
Thu, 12 December 2013 21:57 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Yes, I have heard that some newly manufactured axles will not fit the GMC motorhome. I have bought remanufactured one that did fit.
Emery Stora
On Dec 12, 2013, at 8:51 PM, Robert Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au> wrote:
> Emery,
>
> Didn't someone mention that the splines on the new axles were different from the OEM splines?
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Emery Stora
>
> If you decide to do it yourself or want to give a hint to the person doing the work you can take the axles out without removing the
> hub and knuckle.
>
> The tie rods do not have to be removed.
>
> For drivers side axle removal take off the shock absorber and jack the lower A frame high enough and then turn the steering to the
> right and pull the axle out from behind the hub.
>
> The passenger side is easier but you have to also remove the hanging bracket.
> For passenger side remove the oil filter, position the steering wheel straight ahead, jack up the A frame enough to slide axle
> out of hub by moving inner end to rear where filter was and pull axle out
> through the filter area.
>
> Then just order the front axles for a 1975 Olds Tornado. The axles will be longer so you have to swap in your original GMC inner
> axles. To swap the axles: on the outer joint, remove both clamp straps on the boot, slide boot back & spread the outer snap ring &
> remove the joint. Then remove the inner snap ring & slid the boot off. Even easier on the inboard joint--remove the can on the end
> that goes into the driveshaft stub & the clamp strap on the shaft end. DO NOT remove the can from the inside cast part of the
> housing--it is crimped all the way around. Then spread the snap ring on the end of the shaft & slide the joint enough to clear the
> snap ring from the groove. Then use a blunt instrument under the small end of the boot to gently work it over the inner snap ring
> without tearing it & slid boot & joint off shaft. On reassembly, grind down the inner snap ring ears a little to minimize sharp
> edges & work the boot over it with the blunt instrument (screwdriver with shaf
> t bent 90 degrees & the tip rounded off), the rest is the reverse of disassembly. When done, replace boot bands, double wrapping
> them to get them tight. You will need the band tool to get them tight enough. If you don't want to buy one ($10 to 20) you can use
> Autozone or Checker's tool loan program to borrow one. Then, slide the old joints onto the Toro shafts (don't worry about snap
> rings & boots, they replace them anyhow) & take them back & recover the exorbitant core deposit. Use a small file to clean up the
> splines on the new outer joints where they go into the knuckle. Be sure & check this first for fit--probably save a lot of cussing.
> All in all, a pretty smooth fairly easy job. They use a heavy grease in the joints--about like chassis lube--easy to scoop out &
> push back in.
>
> Emery
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #232987 is a reply to message #232985] |
Thu, 12 December 2013 22:32 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
|
Senior Member |
|
|
| Robert Mueller wrote on Thu, 12 December 2013 21:51 |
Emery,
Didn't someone mention that the splines on the new axles were different from the OEM splines?
Regards,
Rob M.
|
Some NAPA ones fit and some do not. We ordered 2 for each side and got one good and one bad one per side. We installed the good ones and returned the bad ones for a full refund.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #232990 is a reply to message #232987] |
Thu, 12 December 2013 23:07 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Before converting to the 1-Ton front end, I thought I'd better accumulate
some spare CV's because of their looming scarcity. From 3 different parts
stores I ordered a total of 12 Toronado axles. I told the manager at each
store that they HAD to be the OEM style, with the triangular inner joint,
having metal cans. When they arrived, there were, IIRC, a total of 5 OEM
style axles. Those are the only ones I accepted.
All of those are now passed on to other GMCers except, perhaps, one, which
my son may want for a spare.
Since it's apparently no more expensive for the "rebuilders" to buy new
CV's and axles than to rebuild the old "junkers", we're probably seeing the
last of the OEM style. Get them while you can, or step up to the 1-Ton
upgrade.
By the way, if "Toronado" axles are not available, you might try ordering
them for an Eldorado, the Right ones of which will have a vibration damper
"wart" on the axle shaft. No problem since you'll be swapping the shaft
anyway.
By the way, when you swap the axles, DO NOT remove the "can" on the inner
CV unless the boot is bad; it's difficult to get a good seal where it
attaches (crimps) to the main housing. Just hold the assembly vertical and
"drop" it gently on the outer end of the axle. The sheet metal seal on the
inner joint (concealed when the axle's installed) will be driven out of the
housing and you can then disassemble the whole thing without disturbing
that crimped joint.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 11:32 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Robert Mueller wrote on Thu, 12 December 2013 21:51
> > Emery,
> >
> > Didn't someone mention that the splines on the new axles were different
> from the OEM splines?
> >
> > Regards,
> > Rob M.
>
> Some NAPA ones fit and some do not. We ordered 2 for each side and got
> one good and one bad one per side. We installed the good ones and returned
> the bad ones for a full refund.
> --
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #232992 is a reply to message #232982] |
Fri, 13 December 2013 01:09 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Emery, do you have a source for the larger boot clamp. I have looked at
several on line parts stores and they are all too short for a single wrap
let alone a double wrap. I did find Band-It brand 1/4" strapping, but that
was in 100' roll without the crimps.
On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 8:17 PM, Emery Stora <emerystora@mac.com> wrote:
>
> On Dec 12, 2013, at 6:23 PM, Bruce Hart <hartsgmc@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > I am servicing two cv axles that I got off of a donor coach. One of the
> > outer cv joints was galled very bad. My question? Can I order a cv axle
> > for a 76 Toronado and replace the axle from the gmc to get the right
> length
> > and use the Toronado inner and outer cv joints.
> >
> >
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/CV-Driveshaft-Right-Front-Remfd/_/R-NMD959129_0172999564
> >
>
> If you decide to do it yourself or want to give a hint to the person doing
> the work you can take the axles out without removing the hub and knuckle.
>
> The tie rods do not have to be removed.
>
> For drivers side axle removal take off the shock absorber and jack the
> lower A frame high enough and then turn the steering to the right and pull
> the axle out from behind the hub.
>
> The passenger side is easier but you have to also remove the hanging
> bracket.
> For passenger side remove the oil filter, position the steering wheel
> straight ahead, jack up the A frame enough to slide axle
> out of hub by moving inner end to rear where filter was and pull axle out
> through the filter area.
>
> Then just order the front axles for a 1975 Olds Tornado. The axles will
> be longer so you have to swap in your original GMC inner axles. To swap
> the axles: on the outer joint, remove both clamp straps on the boot, slide
> boot back & spread the outer snap ring & remove the joint. Then remove the
> inner snap ring & slid the boot off. Even easier on the inboard
> joint--remove the can on the end that goes into the driveshaft stub & the
> clamp strap on the shaft end. DO NOT remove the can from the inside cast
> part of the housing--it is crimped all the way around. Then spread the snap
> ring on the end of the shaft & slide the joint enough to clear the snap
> ring from the groove. Then use a blunt instrument under the small end of
> the boot to gently work it over the inner snap ring without tearing it &
> slid boot & joint off shaft. On reassembly, grind down the inner snap ring
> ears a little to minimize sharp edges & work the boot over it with the
> blunt instrument (screwdriver with shaf
> t bent 90 degrees & the tip rounded off), the rest is the reverse of
> disassembly. When done, replace boot bands, double wrapping them to get
> them tight. You will need the band tool to get them tight enough. If you
> don't want to buy one ($10 to 20) you can use Autozone or Checker's tool
> loan program to borrow one. Then, slide the old joints onto the Toro
> shafts (don't worry about snap rings & boots, they replace them anyhow) &
> take them back & recover the exorbitant core deposit. Use a small file to
> clean up the splines on the new outer joints where they go into the
> knuckle. Be sure & check this first for fit--probably save a lot of
> cussing. All in all, a pretty smooth fairly easy job. They use a heavy
> grease in the joints--about like chassis lube--easy to scoop out & push
> back in.
>
> Emery Stora
> 77 Kingsley
> Frederick, CO
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #232993 is a reply to message #232992] |
Fri, 13 December 2013 01:29 |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
try these
http://gmcmotorhome.info/front.html#clamps
gene
On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 11:09 PM, Bruce Hart <hartsgmc@gmail.com> wrote:
> Emery, do you have a source for the larger boot clamp. I have looked at
> several on line parts stores and they are all too short for a single wrap
> let alone a double wrap. I did find Band-It brand 1/4" strapping, but that
> was in 100' roll without the crimps.
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 8:17 PM, Emery Stora <emerystora@mac.com> wrote:
>
> >
> > On Dec 12, 2013, at 6:23 PM, Bruce Hart <hartsgmc@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > I am servicing two cv axles that I got off of a donor coach. One of
> the
> > > outer cv joints was galled very bad. My question? Can I order a cv
> axle
> > > for a 76 Toronado and replace the axle from the gmc to get the right
> > length
> > > and use the Toronado inner and outer cv joints.
> > >
> > >
> >
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/CV-Driveshaft-Right-Front-Remfd/_/R-NMD959129_0172999564
> > >
> >
> > If you decide to do it yourself or want to give a hint to the person
> doing
> > the work you can take the axles out without removing the hub and knuckle.
> >
> > The tie rods do not have to be removed.
> >
> > For drivers side axle removal take off the shock absorber and jack the
> > lower A frame high enough and then turn the steering to the right and
> pull
> > the axle out from behind the hub.
> >
> > The passenger side is easier but you have to also remove the hanging
> > bracket.
> > For passenger side remove the oil filter, position the steering wheel
> > straight ahead, jack up the A frame enough to slide axle
> > out of hub by moving inner end to rear where filter was and pull axle out
> > through the filter area.
> >
> > Then just order the front axles for a 1975 Olds Tornado. The axles will
> > be longer so you have to swap in your original GMC inner axles. To swap
> > the axles: on the outer joint, remove both clamp straps on the boot,
> slide
> > boot back & spread the outer snap ring & remove the joint. Then remove
> the
> > inner snap ring & slid the boot off. Even easier on the inboard
> > joint--remove the can on the end that goes into the driveshaft stub & the
> > clamp strap on the shaft end. DO NOT remove the can from the inside cast
> > part of the housing--it is crimped all the way around. Then spread the
> snap
> > ring on the end of the shaft & slide the joint enough to clear the snap
> > ring from the groove. Then use a blunt instrument under the small end of
> > the boot to gently work it over the inner snap ring without tearing it &
> > slid boot & joint off shaft. On reassembly, grind down the inner snap
> ring
> > ears a little to minimize sharp edges & work the boot over it with the
> > blunt instrument (screwdriver with shaf
> > t bent 90 degrees & the tip rounded off), the rest is the reverse of
> > disassembly. When done, replace boot bands, double wrapping them to get
> > them tight. You will need the band tool to get them tight enough. If you
> > don't want to buy one ($10 to 20) you can use Autozone or Checker's tool
> > loan program to borrow one. Then, slide the old joints onto the Toro
> > shafts (don't worry about snap rings & boots, they replace them anyhow) &
> > take them back & recover the exorbitant core deposit. Use a small file to
> > clean up the splines on the new outer joints where they go into the
> > knuckle. Be sure & check this first for fit--probably save a lot of
> > cussing. All in all, a pretty smooth fairly easy job. They use a heavy
> > grease in the joints--about like chassis lube--easy to scoop out & push
> > back in.
> >
> > Emery Stora
> > 77 Kingsley
> > Frederick, CO
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Milliken, Co
> GMC=Got More Class
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #232995 is a reply to message #232978] |
Fri, 13 December 2013 01:51 |
jim kanomata
Messages: 257
Registered: March 2007
Location: fremont,ca
Karma: 12
|
Senior Member |
|
|
You can, but the one you purchase at a parts store will be one made in China and will have a wrong spline .
You'll need to acquire the correct from a GMC supplier.
Iwill be able to quote you one or go to our web site.
We constantly have people getting wrong parts as they are not aware of changes made by the Chinese.
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #232998 is a reply to message #232993] |
Fri, 13 December 2013 07:27 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Thanks gene.
Napa numbers are PUJ 3415 & PUJ 3416 Not NUJ
On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 12:29 AM, gene Fisher <mr.erfisher@gmail.com> wrote:
> try these
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/front.html#clamps
>
> gene
>
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 11:09 PM, Bruce Hart <hartsgmc@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Emery, do you have a source for the larger boot clamp. I have looked at
> > several on line parts stores and they are all too short for a single wrap
> > let alone a double wrap. I did find Band-It brand 1/4" strapping, but
> that
> > was in 100' roll without the crimps.
> >
> >
> > On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 8:17 PM, Emery Stora <emerystora@mac.com> wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > On Dec 12, 2013, at 6:23 PM, Bruce Hart <hartsgmc@gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > > I am servicing two cv axles that I got off of a donor coach. One of
> > the
> > > > outer cv joints was galled very bad. My question? Can I order a cv
> > axle
> > > > for a 76 Toronado and replace the axle from the gmc to get the right
> > > length
> > > > and use the Toronado inner and outer cv joints.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/CV-Driveshaft-Right-Front-Remfd/_/R-NMD959129_0172999564
> > > >
> > >
> > > If you decide to do it yourself or want to give a hint to the person
> > doing
> > > the work you can take the axles out without removing the hub and
> knuckle.
> > >
> > > The tie rods do not have to be removed.
> > >
> > > For drivers side axle removal take off the shock absorber and jack the
> > > lower A frame high enough and then turn the steering to the right and
> > pull
> > > the axle out from behind the hub.
> > >
> > > The passenger side is easier but you have to also remove the hanging
> > > bracket.
> > > For passenger side remove the oil filter, position the steering wheel
> > > straight ahead, jack up the A frame enough to slide axle
> > > out of hub by moving inner end to rear where filter was and pull axle
> out
> > > through the filter area.
> > >
> > > Then just order the front axles for a 1975 Olds Tornado. The axles
> will
> > > be longer so you have to swap in your original GMC inner axles. To
> swap
> > > the axles: on the outer joint, remove both clamp straps on the boot,
> > slide
> > > boot back & spread the outer snap ring & remove the joint. Then remove
> > the
> > > inner snap ring & slid the boot off. Even easier on the inboard
> > > joint--remove the can on the end that goes into the driveshaft stub &
> the
> > > clamp strap on the shaft end. DO NOT remove the can from the inside
> cast
> > > part of the housing--it is crimped all the way around. Then spread the
> > snap
> > > ring on the end of the shaft & slide the joint enough to clear the snap
> > > ring from the groove. Then use a blunt instrument under the small end
> of
> > > the boot to gently work it over the inner snap ring without tearing it
> &
> > > slid boot & joint off shaft. On reassembly, grind down the inner snap
> > ring
> > > ears a little to minimize sharp edges & work the boot over it with the
> > > blunt instrument (screwdriver with shaf
> > > t bent 90 degrees & the tip rounded off), the rest is the reverse of
> > > disassembly. When done, replace boot bands, double wrapping them to get
> > > them tight. You will need the band tool to get them tight enough. If
> you
> > > don't want to buy one ($10 to 20) you can use Autozone or Checker's
> tool
> > > loan program to borrow one. Then, slide the old joints onto the Toro
> > > shafts (don't worry about snap rings & boots, they replace them
> anyhow) &
> > > take them back & recover the exorbitant core deposit. Use a small file
> to
> > > clean up the splines on the new outer joints where they go into the
> > > knuckle. Be sure & check this first for fit--probably save a lot of
> > > cussing. All in all, a pretty smooth fairly easy job. They use a heavy
> > > grease in the joints--about like chassis lube--easy to scoop out & push
> > > back in.
> > >
> > > Emery Stora
> > > 77 Kingsley
> > > Frederick, CO
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > GMCnet mailing list
> > > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Bruce Hart
> > 1976 Palm Beach
> > Milliken, Co
> > GMC=Got More Class
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
> “Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
> -------
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/
> Alternator Protection Cable
> http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #233001 is a reply to message #233000] |
Fri, 13 December 2013 09:28 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I agree that Ken H.'s write up with photos is very good .
On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 7:25 AM, Jp Benson <chocomo99@yahoo.com> wrote:
> When I ordered the Toronado axles about 1 yr ago there were two
> rebuilders. Fenco & Cardone. I ordered Fenco rebuilds from Advanced
> and they were the correct ones. Upon removing the CV joints I found a
> broken retainer clip and some metal particles in the inner joint. Fenco
> tech support personnel accused me of breaking the retainer and when I
> sent pictures he claimed that they were not Fenco rebuilds by the color
> of the grease. Due to the metal particles, I repacked everything with
> synthetic grease and noted that the ball bearings showed the same signs
> of wear as my originals. I have no way of knowing if that's how Fenco
> does business or if someone pulled a switch somewhere in the process.
> In the GMCnet archives Ken Henderson describes the best procedure for
> changing the CV joints.
>
> JP
>
>
> On 12/12/2013 8:23 PM, Bruce Hart wrote:
> > I am servicing two cv axles that I got off of a donor coach. One of the
> > outer cv joints was galled very bad. My question? Can I order a cv axle
> > for a 76 Toronado and replace the axle from the gmc to get the right
> length
> > and use the Toronado inner and outer cv joints.
> >
> >
> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/CV-Driveshaft-Right-Front-Remfd/_/R-NMD959129_0172999564
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #233002 is a reply to message #233001] |
Fri, 13 December 2013 09:40 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Napa can have my unit rebuilt locally for me at about same price as a
re-manufactured axle.
On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 8:28 AM, Bruce Hart <hartsgmc@gmail.com> wrote:
> I agree that Ken H.'s write up with photos is very good .
>
>
> On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 7:25 AM, Jp Benson <chocomo99@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> When I ordered the Toronado axles about 1 yr ago there were two
>> rebuilders. Fenco & Cardone. I ordered Fenco rebuilds from Advanced
>> and they were the correct ones. Upon removing the CV joints I found a
>> broken retainer clip and some metal particles in the inner joint. Fenco
>> tech support personnel accused me of breaking the retainer and when I
>> sent pictures he claimed that they were not Fenco rebuilds by the color
>> of the grease. Due to the metal particles, I repacked everything with
>> synthetic grease and noted that the ball bearings showed the same signs
>> of wear as my originals. I have no way of knowing if that's how Fenco
>> does business or if someone pulled a switch somewhere in the process.
>> In the GMCnet archives Ken Henderson describes the best procedure for
>> changing the CV joints.
>>
>> JP
>>
>>
>> On 12/12/2013 8:23 PM, Bruce Hart wrote:
>> > I am servicing two cv axles that I got off of a donor coach. One of the
>> > outer cv joints was galled very bad. My question? Can I order a cv
>> axle
>> > for a 76 Toronado and replace the axle from the gmc to get the right
>> length
>> > and use the Toronado inner and outer cv joints.
>> >
>> >
>> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/CV-Driveshaft-Right-Front-Remfd/_/R-NMD959129_0172999564
>> >
>> >
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Milliken, Co
> GMC=Got More Class
>
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #233005 is a reply to message #232992] |
Fri, 13 December 2013 11:15 |
Emery Stora
Messages: 959
Registered: January 2011
Karma: 4
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I haven't bought any for a few years. I used to buy them from Denny Allen but he has passed away.
Perhaps someone else on the net will have a current source.
Emery Stora
On Dec 13, 2013, at 12:09 AM, Bruce Hart <hartsgmc@gmail.com> wrote:
> Emery, do you have a source for the larger boot clamp. I have looked at
> several on line parts stores and they are all too short for a single wrap
> let alone a double wrap. I did find Band-It brand 1/4" strapping, but that
> was in 100' roll without the crimps.
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 12, 2013 at 8:17 PM, Emery Stora <emerystora@mac.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> On Dec 12, 2013, at 6:23 PM, Bruce Hart <hartsgmc@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I am servicing two cv axles that I got off of a donor coach. One of the
>>> outer cv joints was galled very bad. My question? Can I order a cv axle
>>> for a 76 Toronado and replace the axle from the gmc to get the right
>> length
>>> and use the Toronado inner and outer cv joints.
>> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/CV-Driveshaft-Right-Front-Remfd/_/R-NMD959129_0172999564
>>
>> If you decide to do it yourself or want to give a hint to the person doing
>> the work you can take the axles out without removing the hub and knuckle.
>>
>> The tie rods do not have to be removed.
>>
>> For drivers side axle removal take off the shock absorber and jack the
>> lower A frame high enough and then turn the steering to the right and pull
>> the axle out from behind the hub.
>>
>> The passenger side is easier but you have to also remove the hanging
>> bracket.
>> For passenger side remove the oil filter, position the steering wheel
>> straight ahead, jack up the A frame enough to slide axle
>> out of hub by moving inner end to rear where filter was and pull axle out
>> through the filter area.
>>
>> Then just order the front axles for a 1975 Olds Tornado. The axles will
>> be longer so you have to swap in your original GMC inner axles. To swap
>> the axles: on the outer joint, remove both clamp straps on the boot, slide
>> boot back & spread the outer snap ring & remove the joint. Then remove the
>> inner snap ring & slid the boot off. Even easier on the inboard
>> joint--remove the can on the end that goes into the driveshaft stub & the
>> clamp strap on the shaft end. DO NOT remove the can from the inside cast
>> part of the housing--it is crimped all the way around. Then spread the snap
>> ring on the end of the shaft & slide the joint enough to clear the snap
>> ring from the groove. Then use a blunt instrument under the small end of
>> the boot to gently work it over the inner snap ring without tearing it &
>> slid boot & joint off shaft. On reassembly, grind down the inner snap ring
>> ears a little to minimize sharp edges & work the boot over it with the
>> blunt instrument (screwdriver with shaf
>> t bent 90 degrees & the tip rounded off), the rest is the reverse of
>> disassembly. When done, replace boot bands, double wrapping them to get
>> them tight. You will need the band tool to get them tight enough. If you
>> don't want to buy one ($10 to 20) you can use Autozone or Checker's tool
>> loan program to borrow one. Then, slide the old joints onto the Toro
>> shafts (don't worry about snap rings & boots, they replace them anyhow) &
>> take them back & recover the exorbitant core deposit. Use a small file to
>> clean up the splines on the new outer joints where they go into the
>> knuckle. Be sure & check this first for fit--probably save a lot of
>> cussing. All in all, a pretty smooth fairly easy job. They use a heavy
>> grease in the joints--about like chassis lube--easy to scoop out & push
>> back in.
>>
>> Emery Stora
>> 77 Kingsley
>> Frederick, CO
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> Milliken, Co
> GMC=Got More Class
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #233010 is a reply to message #232992] |
Fri, 13 December 2013 12:59 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Bruce,
A few years ago, I bought CV Boots and bands from Jim Bounds at the GMC Co-op. I later needed to replace one of the bands and he sent me another one for a nominal price. I suspect Jim K also stocks that material (he has everything else for a GMC).
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #233027 is a reply to message #233021] |
Fri, 13 December 2013 17:27 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1501
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Rob, that is a great site.
http://www.cvaxles.com/index.html
It appears that I could send them my axle and they would rebuild it.
On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 3:20 PM, Robert Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>wrote:
> G'day,
>
> Waaaay back in 2008 I bought some rebuilt CV joints from this company:
>
> http://www.cvaxles.com/index.html
>
> Back then this was the company that the Jim's used and IIRC they won't
> sell directly to customers you have to buy them from the
> Jim's IF you live in the USA.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> Sydney, Australia
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
Milliken, Co
GMC=Got More Class
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #233052 is a reply to message #233027] |
Fri, 13 December 2013 22:51 |
jim kanomata
Messages: 257
Registered: March 2007
Location: fremont,ca
Karma: 12
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Bruce,
It is a free country and you can purchase from whoever you want.
If nothing else, go visit our site and see if it makes sense for you.
If not I am never offended.
We have the pleasure of supplying the community with parts and kit that fit as we have a GMC shop and use the same parts here.
There are but few shops that have the specialtool for suracing the joints.
Most just install larger balls.
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] CV axle [message #233054 is a reply to message #233052] |
Fri, 13 December 2013 22:57 |
jim kanomata
Messages: 257
Registered: March 2007
Location: fremont,ca
Karma: 12
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Carl,
Thank you for mentioning that there are GMC parts suppliers.
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
|
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Sat Sep 21 00:38:29 CDT 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01780 seconds
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
