Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] new brakes
| [GMCnet] new brakes [message #231255] |
Mon, 25 November 2013 19:37  |
mjbourgon
Messages: 259
Registered: May 2010
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Good morning all
Working on my new to me 1975 Glennbrook. New engine, manny tranny and
new one ton front end. New brakes, cylinders, brake lines, shoes, power
booster, and master cylinder. Brakes do not work very well. What could
we have done wrong, or what do we need to do to get the brakes to work.
Ideas please
Marcel in a freezing El Paso
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| Re: [GMCnet] new brakes [message #231263 is a reply to message #231255] |
Mon, 25 November 2013 20:16  |
Steve
Messages: 506
Registered: September 2013
Location: East Greenville, Pa
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Rubber brake hoses?
1978 GMC Royal
Eastern Pennslyvania
1968 Chevrolet C20 396 Camper Special
1969 Chevrolet C20 Camper Special
1985 Buick Electra Park Avenue
1992 Camaro 25th Anniversary Heretage Edition Black
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| Re: [GMCnet] new brakes [message #231264 is a reply to message #231255] |
Mon, 25 November 2013 20:19 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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Not sure about 1 ton brakes. But i would do the following in the same order if it were me:
1. Get hupy power bleeder. Bleed brakes with that to make sure you have no air in system
2. If that does not work, Replace the proportioning valve.
However you listed everything else so if you replace the valve before you power bleed, I think you would not need to deal with brakes for a long time.
All that replaced stuff, it takes some work to make sure there is no air in system.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: [GMCnet] new brakes [message #231269 is a reply to message #231255] |
Mon, 25 November 2013 20:31 |
scott cowden
Messages: 170
Registered: February 2004
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Hi Marcel;
I think Jon said what was going through my mind. So many guys change all the parts on the ends of the lines-master cyl, calipers etc, and forget heart of the fluid distribution of brake fluid, the proportioning valve.
if, when you were bleeding out your brakes after all your upgrades, a bit of air got into the lines, the proportioning valve may have moved to side and hasn't moved back, meaning you've got front or rear brakes only. It's easy to have that happen and if you don't get it re-centered it will sabotage everything you try to do until it's got back into position.
Of course, after nearly 40 years, the thing may be jammed or gunked up inside and is just stuck out of the central position, limiting fluid flow.
If you press the button in the centre of the thing and you can feel the valve centre itself, great. If not, you can change the last part in your system and be 'all-new'!!
Anyway, based on your email, that's where I'd look first.
Good luck.
Scott
'74 x-Glacier
Newmarket ON
Sent from my iPad
On 2013-11-25, at 8:42 PM, "Marcel Bourgon" <mjbourgon@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Good morning all
> Working on my new to me 1975 Glennbrook. New engine, manny tranny and
> new one ton front end. New brakes, cylinders, brake lines, shoes, power
> booster, and master cylinder. Brakes do not work very well. What could
> we have done wrong, or what do we need to do to get the brakes to work.
> Ideas please
> Marcel in a freezing El Paso
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] new brakes [message #231287 is a reply to message #231269] |
Tue, 26 November 2013 01:05 |
jim kanomata
Messages: 257
Registered: March 2007
Location: fremont,ca
Karma: 12
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Marcel,
Check the front calipers to see that the bleed valve is at 12 O'clock.
Sometimes you might want to collapse the front caliper all the way in and create a small chamber, then bleed it slowly to avoid foaming/bubbling as the fluid fills the chamber.
I feel it is the front that is creating the poor stopping.
Do not waste your time replacing the hose as the stock rubber more than good. At a later date, you can do so.
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Fremont,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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| Re: [GMCnet] new brakes [message #231295 is a reply to message #231255] |
Tue, 26 November 2013 05:33 |
Jim Bounds
Messages: 842
Registered: January 2004
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Call me later at rtf he shop if that continues, be sure they do a 3 way bleed. Gravity, power then pump. So many times this was a cause, I can almost guaranty when my guys have troubles doing brakes they took a short cut on this. STAY ON THE NARROW PATH!
Jim Bounds
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
-------- Original message --------
From: Marcel Bourgon <mjbourgon@earthlink.net>
Date: 11/25/2013 8:37 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] new brakes
Good morning all
Working on my new to me 1975 Glennbrook. New engine, manny tranny and
new one ton front end. New brakes, cylinders, brake lines, shoes, power
booster, and master cylinder. Brakes do not work very well. What could
we have done wrong, or what do we need to do to get the brakes to work.
Ideas please
Marcel in a freezing El Paso
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| Re: [GMCnet] new brakes [message #231299 is a reply to message #231295] |
Tue, 26 November 2013 06:37 |
mjbourgon
Messages: 259
Registered: May 2010
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I would like to thank all the fellows for their help. I will give this
info to the boys working on it and if I still have problems will give
you guys a call
Thanks as always
Marcel heading for Fort worth and turkey day with family
Happy thanksgiving to all
On 11/26/2013 04:33, gmccoop wrote:
> Call me later at rtf he shop if that continues, be sure they do a 3 way bleed. Gravity, power then pump. So many times this was a cause, I can almost guaranty when my guys have troubles doing brakes they took a short cut on this. STAY ON THE NARROW PATH!
>
> Jim Bounds
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Marcel Bourgon <mjbourgon@earthlink.net>
> Date: 11/25/2013 8:37 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> Subject: [GMCnet] new brakes
>
> Good morning all
> Working on my new to me 1975 Glennbrook. New engine, manny tranny and
> new one ton front end. New brakes, cylinders, brake lines, shoes, power
> booster, and master cylinder. Brakes do not work very well. What could
> we have done wrong, or what do we need to do to get the brakes to work.
> Ideas please
> Marcel in a freezing El Paso
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: [GMCnet] new brakes [message #231308 is a reply to message #231287] |
Tue, 26 November 2013 09:22 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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| jim kanomata wrote on Tue, 26 November 2013 00:05 |
Marcel,
Check the front calipers to see that the bleed valve is at 12 O'clock.
Sometimes you might want to collapse the front caliper all the way in and create a small chamber, then bleed it slowly to avoid foaming/bubbling as the fluid fills the chamber.
I feel it is the front that is creating the poor stopping.
Do not waste your time replacing the hose as the stock rubber more than good. At a later date, you can do so.
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Also check the rear calipers (and mid) for the same thing. When I installed my Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, I had to take the rear calipers loose to get all the air out of them. The way they are mounted on the torque boxes, the bleeder is NOT at 12:00. It will trap air in the top of the caliper if it is not.
I think you will find that the pedal will feel different with six wheel disc brakes even if there is no air in the lines. My pedal is a little lower than it was with the rear drums, but I have gotten used to it. The coach will stop on a dime (and has a few times).
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: [GMCnet] new brakes [message #231343 is a reply to message #231308] |
Tue, 26 November 2013 11:48 |
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WD0AFQ
Messages: 7111
Registered: November 2004
Location: Dexter, Mo.
Karma: 207
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Senior Member |
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| Carl S. wrote on Tue, 26 November 2013 09:22 |
| jim kanomata wrote on Tue, 26 November 2013 00:05 |
Marcel,
Check the front calipers to see that the bleed valve is at 12 O'clock.
Sometimes you might want to collapse the front caliper all the way in and create a small chamber, then bleed it slowly to avoid foaming/bubbling as the fluid fills the chamber.
I feel it is the front that is creating the poor stopping.
Do not waste your time replacing the hose as the stock rubber more than good. At a later date, you can do so.
|
Also check the rear calipers (and mid) for the same thing. When I installed my Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, I had to take the rear calipers loose to get all the air out of them. The way they are mounted on the torque boxes, the bleeder is NOT at 12:00. It will trap air in the top of the caliper if it is not.
I think you will find that the pedal will feel different with six wheel disc brakes even if there is no air in the lines. My pedal is a little lower than it was with the rear drums, but I have gotten used to it. The coach will stop on a dime (and has a few times).
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We did the big master cylendar and synth. booster first. Still had no brakes. Drove the bad boy to applied for the one ton and rear disc with reaction arm. I can throw you out of your seat now, if you leave your seat belt off. It is a totally different vehicle when you get it right. My pedal goes a good bit further down now but I don't care, I got real brakes.
Happy thanksgiving to all.
Dan
3 In Stainless Exhaust Headers
One Ton All Discs/Reaction Arm
355 FD/Quad Bag/Alum Radiator Manny Tran/New eng.
Holley EFI/10 Tire Air Monitoring System
Solarized Coach/Upgraded Windows
Satelite TV/On Demand Hot Water/3Way Refer
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