| starter wiring [message #229144] |
Sun, 10 November 2013 12:16  |
Chris Tyler
Messages: 458
Registered: September 2013
Location: Odessa FL
Karma:
|
Senior Member |
|
|
The PO had recurrent hot start/no start issues- one of the reasons I got the long deal on my 76 Glenbrook. It has headers, and despite a heat shield it did give me a problem on the way home
Having had similar issues with musclecars and heat soaked solenoids I put a remote Ford type starter solenoid up front and ran 3/0 welding cable, putting a jumper on the GM solenoid. It has worked well for me on other vehicles, eliminating heat soak issues plus providing an easy way to bump the engine over for valve adjustment, ect.
I also rigged the boost switch to trigger the starter when on momentary on off the house battery in case the primary is dead. It works great, with all three batterys it spins even a hot 455 like no there's no tomorrow.
Heres the rub: previously the cable from the genset battery was on the same side of the boost solenoid as the start cable. Since the engine mounted solenoid was switched it didnt matter if it was hot. The cable is still hot, although on a [i think] 50amp curcuit breaker. If I put it on the cable side now, it will briefly try to start before the breaker trips so it is on the house battery side of the boost solenoid. Problem is, that way the two auxillery batteries always actually in parallel with the associated cross drawing issue. Hence my problem.
At the gen compartment, there is another boost solenoid that enables the full amperage to the large cable to the front. The breaker protected cable runs to the cold side of that solenoid as I think this enables the charging of ther rear battery. If it were on the hot side I dont see any cuircuit for charging. Not sure if the buzz box charges it, have not checked that yet.
Complicating the matter further is my plan down the road is to put dual 6 v batteries to relpace both the house battery and the genset battery to enable more capacity for boondocking.
Not sure what my best option is. I think the most simple solution is a Battery selector/disconnect switch for the cable from the rear battery, but this does not solve the alternator charging issue.
Question is, would I be better off with adding a second isolator, replacing the existing 2 pole isolator with a multi pole [marine type] isolator or adding a battery combiner? Any other ideas?
76 Glenbrook
|
|
|
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
