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Frame and Body Pads [message #228632] Wed, 06 November 2013 09:51 Go to next message
mickey szilagyi is currently offline  mickey szilagyi   United States
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We're still at it taking apart, fixing and replacing stuff on the coach and now we're into the black water tank, toilet and hot water heater. We just had the fuel tanks removed and put back on. We're wondering if now would be a good time to replace and add the missing between-the-body-and-frame pads. Some of them seem to be OK, some are missing, and some have moved and are barely in place.

I've done a little searching and couldn't find a good detailed diagram of the number and placement of all the pads that should be on the coach and would appreciate any help in this if anyone has that information.

We noticed there are various replacement pads available in various thickness and material and would greatly appreciate any comments on them. We have used neoprene sheet material for other coach projects and find it quite good. It comes in 1/2 thickness and we're thinking of using it for the pads. We think it would work well but again your thoughts on all this would be great.

Thanks everyone, She's in the barn for the winter but we're still tinkering when weather and time permits.



Mickey 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
Re: [GMCnet] Frame and Body Pads [message #228633 is a reply to message #228632] Wed, 06 November 2013 09:55 Go to previous messageGo to next message
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
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Location: Sydney, Australia
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Mickey,

Here you go:

http://www.bdub.net/curtis-unlimited/index.html

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Mickey Szilagyi
Sent: Wednesday, November 06, 2013 9:51 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Frame and Body Pads

We're still at it taking apart, fixing and replacing stuff on the coach and now we're into the black water tank, toilet and hot
water heater. We just had the fuel tanks removed and put back on. We're wondering if now would be a good time to replace and add
the missing between-the-body-and-frame pads. Some of them seem to be OK, some are missing, and some have moved and are barely in
place.

I've done a little searching and couldn't find a good detailed diagram of the number and placement of all the pads that should be on
the coach and would appreciate any help in this if anyone has that information.

We noticed there are various replacement pads available in various thickness and material and would greatly appreciate any comments
on them. We have used neoprene sheet material for other coach projects and find it quite good. It comes in 1/2 thickness and we're
thinking of using it for the pads. We think it would work well but again your thoughts on all this would be great.

Thanks everyone, She's in the barn for the winter but we're still tinkering when weather and time permits.


--
Mickey
1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: Frame and Body Pads [message #228635 is a reply to message #228632] Wed, 06 November 2013 10:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickey szilagyi is currently offline  mickey szilagyi   United States
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Thanks Rob and others.

I didn't look far enough and am now finding information on the isolation pads. Sorry about jumping the gun a bit. But, if anyone still has any comments about the pads we'd still like to hear from you.

Thanks,


Mickey 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI

[Updated on: Wed, 06 November 2013 10:05]

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Re: Frame and Body Pads [message #228638 is a reply to message #228635] Wed, 06 November 2013 10:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jknezek is currently offline  jknezek   United States
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Putting new pads on will help in a couple ways. It prevents lines all over from being squashed, which is a very good thing, an it restores the body/frame isolation, which will remove a lot of squeaks and squeals when driving. It FEELS like it makes a difference to your coach, because a lot of things that were grinding on each other and weren't supposed to, no longer do, but it probably doesn't make your coach easier to drive.

It is well worth doing. Mainly because they are supposed to be there for very good reasons, but also because it gives you a quieter, more stock ride. I was very pleased with the change in the coach and I know that it didn't actually make the coach drive better, but it certainly SEEMS like it does.


Thanks,
Jeremy Knezek
1976 Glenbrook
Birmingham, AL
Re: [GMCnet] Frame and Body Pads [message #228646 is a reply to message #228635] Wed, 06 November 2013 11:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
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Hard to beat the puck pad kit Jim b sells in price or function. Put one in The Pig and quieted the road noise while stiffening the whole rig up which reduced the occasional detached from the frame sensation while driving. While you are at it I highly recommend you check the plywood above the four stirrup straps that hold the body down to the frame. There are four of them in the straight section of the frame. The original design is crap and the carriage bolts with counter sunk washers can pull right through the floor.

Todd Sullivan

Sully
77 royale
Seattle

> On Nov 6, 2013, at 8:04 AM, Mickey Szilagyi <mickey@apex-internet.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> I didn't look far enough and am now finding information on the isolation pads. Sorry about jumping the gun a bit. But, if anyone still has any comments about the pads we'd still like to hear from you.
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Mickey
> 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: Frame and Body Pads [message #228661 is a reply to message #228632] Wed, 06 November 2013 13:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickey szilagyi is currently offline  mickey szilagyi   United States
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Thanks Sully,

That's something else we need to look for while we're underneath. We already found the ground straps and they are fine and look like replacements by the PO.


Mickey 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
Re: [GMCnet] Frame and Body Pads [message #228675 is a reply to message #228661] Wed, 06 November 2013 15:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
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Before you commit to doing the pads check to see what access you have to the carriage bolt heads coming through the floor from inside. If they are inaccessible due to cabinetry but appear sound( not loose or pulled through the floor) you might want to leave them un disturbed and instead remove the bracket from the frame in order to free the coach body for lifting. The downside to this approach is that If the stirrups have been tightened over the years they may be pulled too close to the floor to allow the bracket coming off the frame to re engage the stirrup cause your new pads have increased the distance and are not adjustable where they mount to the frame. Hand tools only after lots if penetrating oil to loosen the stirrups cause once the bolt spins you will need to gain access from inside.

Todd Sullivan

Sully
77 royale
Seattle

> On Nov 6, 2013, at 11:37 AM, Mickey Szilagyi <mickey@apex-internet.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Thanks Sully,
>
> That's something else we need to look for while we're underneath. We already found the ground straps and they are fine and look like replacements by the PO.
> --
> Mickey
> 1977 Kingsley, 403, Lansing, MI
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: [GMCnet] Frame and Body Pads [message #228678 is a reply to message #228675] Wed, 06 November 2013 15:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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sgltrac wrote on Wed, 06 November 2013 15:27

Before you commit to doing the pads check to see what access you have to the carriage bolt heads coming through the floor from inside. If they are inaccessible due to cabinetry but appear sound( not loose or pulled through the floor) you might want to leave them un disturbed and instead remove the bracket from the frame in order to free the coach body for lifting. The downside to this approach is that If the stirrups have been tightened over the years they may be pulled too close to the floor to allow the bracket coming off the frame to re engage the stirrup cause your new pads have increased the distance and are not adjustable where they mount to the frame. Hand tools only after lots if penetrating oil to loosen the stirrups cause once the bolt spins you will need to gain access from inside.

Todd Sullivan

Sully
77 royale
Seattle



I was able to replace the pads WITHOUT loosening those hold downs.






Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

[Updated on: Wed, 06 November 2013 15:58]

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Re: [GMCnet] Frame and Body Pads [message #228684 is a reply to message #228678] Wed, 06 November 2013 17:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
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That MAY be able to replace the pads without loosening the stirrups but it is easier to do them if you remove the stirrups. Not to mention that if there is enough slack in the stirrups to allow the pad to be inserted they are too loose.

Todd Sullivan

Sully
77 royale
Seattle

> On Nov 6, 2013, at 1:57 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> sgltrac wrote on Wed, 06 November 2013 15:27
>> Before you commit to doing the pads check to see what access you have to the carriage bolt heads coming through the floor from inside. If they are inaccessible due to cabinetry but appear sound( not loose or pulled through the floor) you might want to leave them un disturbed and instead remove the bracket from the frame in order to free the coach body for lifting. The downside to this approach is that If the stirrups have been tightened over the years they may be pulled too close to the floor to allow the bracket coming off the frame to re engage the stirrup cause your new pads have increased the distance and are not adjustable where they mount to the frame. Hand tools only after lots if penetrating oil to loosen the stirrups cause once the bolt spins you will need to gain access from inside.
>>
>> Todd Sullivan
>>
>> Sully
>> 77 royale
>> Seattle
>>
>> I was able to replace the pads WITHOUT loosening those hold downs.
>
>
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: [GMCnet] Frame and Body Pads [message #228690 is a reply to message #228684] Wed, 06 November 2013 18:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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Not true.

On mine, if I tightened them any more they would pull through the floor. I have done several coaches now this way. The only one that gave me fits was one that had thin pads and the owner wanted them replaced with thick ones. On that one, I ended removing the bracket to frame mounting bolts one at a time and inserting longer bolts. Then I loosened both of the longer bolts at the same time but did not remove them completely. After replacing the pads I was able to tighten the bracket to frame bolts again and pull the brackets back into position.

Doing it this way saves having to work with the problem with rusted vertical carriage bolts and spinning them in the wood.

If you are determined to remove those vertical bolts, soak them for 4 or 5 days with Kroil. Then jack up on the body to put more strain on the head of the carriage bolt in the wood. Take a nut and run it up and down on the bolts to clean the exposed threads. Finally slowly try to break the nuts loose and remove them.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: [GMCnet] Frame and Body Pads [message #228714 is a reply to message #228690] Wed, 06 November 2013 20:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
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No Ken, true.
The reason you pulled the bolts through the floor is because GM in their infinite wisdom decided to countersink 3/4 of the thickness of the floor wood presumably in order to prevent a clearance issue with interior configurations as well as provide a recess to hold the concentric washer which is intended to hold the bolt in place while tightening the nut. This leaves about 1/4" of the lower side of the plywood sheet intact to hold the middle 2/3 of the coach in place over the frame. If you really want to properly secure the middle of the coach to the frame the carriage bolts should pass through a metal plate on the topside of the flooring. This can be done quite easily if your interior is out of the way by cutting a rectangle of 1/8" steel 5" x 11" and counter sinking the floor a hair over the thickness of the plate and setting the carriage head of the bolt by driving it through a slightly undersized drilled hole to keep it from spinning.

Todd Sullivan

Sully
77 royale
Seattle

> On Nov 6, 2013, at 4:48 PM, Ken Burton <n9cv@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
>
> Not true.
>
> On mine, if I tightened them any more they would pull through the floor. I have done several coaches now this way. The only one that gave me fits was one that had thin pads and the owner wanted them replaced with thick ones. On that one, I ended removing the bracket to frame mounting bolts one at a time and inserting longer bolts. Then I loosened both of the longer bolts at the same time but did not remove them completely. After replacing the pads I was able to tighten the bracket to frame bolts again and pull the brackets back into position.
>
> Doing it this way saves having to work with the problem with rusted vertical carriage bolts and spinning them in the wood.
>
> If you are determined to remove those vertical bolts, soak them for 4 or 5 days with Kroil. Then jack up on the body to put more strain on the head of the carriage bolt in the wood. Take a nut and run it up and down on the bolts to clean the exposed threads. Finally slowly try to break the nuts loose and remove them.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: Frame and Body Pads [message #228718 is a reply to message #228632] Wed, 06 November 2013 20:54 Go to previous message
Chr$ is currently offline  Chr$   United States
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I have a complete new set from Applied. I paid $100, I'll ship in the US for $75,

-Chr$: Perpetual SmartAss
Scottsdale, AZ

77 Ex-Kingsley 455 SOLD!
2010 Nomad 24 Ft TT 390W PV W/MPPT, EV4010 and custom cargo door.
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