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| [GMCnet] Update on Harvey the RV and some other questions [message #227407] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 16:01  |
Brian Oakes
Messages: 23
Registered: October 2013
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Howdy!
I have been combing the operating manuals for my coach, just to figure out
what works and what doesn't, but I am left with a few questions. It appears
my coach has had the interior completely redone so I have having a hard time
figuring out what is stock and what isn't. :-) For the most part, the coach
seems to be in decent conditions, but it does have engine/transmission
leaks. So far everything appears to be fixable. My questions are more along
the lines of where "should" things be. :-)
1. The coach is registered as a Glenbrook, but I have found references
to an Elegenza II. Based on the TZE, can we confirm? I used the number to
confirm the color, but didn't find model.
2. I see references to a water input that is on the drivers rear at the
very back corner. This is different from the city water input further
towards the front. Mine is missing. I do have a water input by the propane.
Is this right?
3. When I put water in the water tank, it comes out what appears to be
a drain underneath the coach. Is there a plug? Or is there a valve inside
the coach? My plumbing doesn't seem to match the diagrams I have seen. Where
would the valve be?
4. Do most of the coaches have 2 water tanks?
5. Where is the valve normally located to empty the poop tank? I assume
it's gravity fed?
6. I am going to rebuild my Power Level airbag values but have seen
references to a re-engineered version? Anyone got a link?
7. The screws for my rear ladder supports at the top are missing. Not
sure if they got pulled out or just backed out. What should they be replaced
with?
8. By the circuit breaker panel in the cabinet, there is a switch and
an outlet. I replaced the power inverter and plugged it in. Is the switch
for the hot water heater?
9. When in the garage or at a camp site with power, what is the best
option to run the lights inside? My lights inside the galley etc appear to
be DC 12v. When I am plugged in, are those lights running off the AC cord,
or the DC battery? What are the best practices? If so, do I have to run the
generator to power those lights?
Thanks for the time and the question responses. Right now, we are just
trying to check out all the systems and get a better understanding of
operation then we can fix the high priority items on the list and then go
forward from there.
Brian and Brandi Oakes
Burleson, Texas
75 Glenrook - "Harvey"
TZE165V101227
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| Re: [GMCnet] Update on Harvey the RV and some other questions [message #227424 is a reply to message #227407] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 17:20  |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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Brian,
I'll try to answer some of your questions for you. Answers will be in caps (not shouting)
| Brian Oakes wrote on Mon, 28 October 2013 14:01 |
Howdy!
I have been combing the operating manuals for my coach, just to figure out
what works and what doesn't, but I am left with a few questions. It appears
my coach has had the interior completely redone so I have having a hard time
figuring out what is stock and what isn't.  For the most part, the coach
seems to be in decent conditions, but it does have engine/transmission
leaks. So far everything appears to be fixable. My questions are more along
the lines of where "should" things be.
1. The coach is registered as a Glenbrook, but I have found references
to an Elegenza II. Based on the TZE, can we confirm? I used the number to
confirm the color, but didn't find model.
2. I see references to a water input that is on the drivers rear at the
very back corner. This is different from the city water input further
towards the front. Mine is missing. I do have a water input by the propane.
Is this right
THIS IS HOW MY '75 IS SET UP. EVIDENTLY, LATER COACHED HAD THE WATER FILL IN THE LEFT REAR UNDER A DOOR SIMILAR TO THE GASOLINE DOOR.
3. When I put water in the water tank, it comes out what appears to be
a drain underneath the coach. Is there a plug? Or is there a valve inside
the coach? My plumbing doesn't seem to match the diagrams I have seen. Where
would the valve be?
THERE IS A DRAIN VALVE FOR THE WATER TANK. THERE IS ALSO AN OVERFLOW, SO IF YOU FILL THE TANK, SOME WATER WILL COME OUT THE OVERFLOW UNTIL IT LEVELS OFF. THE VALVE SHOULD BE IN THE REAR COMPARTMENT UNDER THE BED, WHERE THE WATER TANK IS LOCATED.
4. Do most of the coaches have 2 water tanks?
I DON'T THINK SO.
5. Where is the valve normally located to empty the poop tank? I assume
it's gravity fed?
UNLESS YOU HAVE A MASERATOR (A PUMP WITH A GRINDER THAT PUMPS THE WASTE THROUGH A SMALL HOSE) THE DUMP LINE IS IN THE CENTER OF THE COACH IN THE BACK. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO FOLLOW THE PIPE UP TO THE VALVE AND FIND THE HANDLE FROM THERE.
6. I am going to rebuild my Power Level airbag values but have seen
references to a re-engineered version? Anyone got a link?
JIM kANOMATA (APPLIED GMC - <http://www.appliedgmc.com/>) HAS BOTH REBUILD KITS AND NEW BRASS VALVES BY JR SLATEN. THE SLATEN VALVES ARE THE WAY TO GO IN MY OPINION.
7. The screws for my rear ladder supports at the top are missing. Not
sure if they got pulled out or just backed out. What should they be replaced
with?
THEY PROBABLY CAME OUT OF SOME SORT OF BACKING BEHIND THE END CAP. TO ACCESS THAT, YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THE INSIDE END CAP TRIM PANEL.
8. By the circuit breaker panel in the cabinet, there is a switch and
an outlet. I replaced the power inverter and plugged it in. Is the switch
for the hot water heater?
THE SWITCH IS FOR THE WATER HEATER.
9. When in the garage or at a camp site with power, what is the best
option to run the lights inside? My lights inside the galley etc appear to
be DC 12v. When I am plugged in, are those lights running off the AC cord,
or the DC battery? What are the best practices? If so, do I have to run the
generator to power those lights?
THE LIGHTS ARE 12V AND WILL RUN OFF OF YOUR POWER CONVERTER OR BATTERY. NO NEED TO RUN THE GENERATOR UNLESS YOUR BATTERY IS DEAD OR YOUR CONVERTER IS NOT WORKING. THE GENERATOR PROVIDES 120 V AC POWER JUST LIKE THE POWER PEDESTAL AT THE RV PARK.
Thanks for the time and the question responses. Right now, we are just
trying to check out all the systems and get a better understanding of
operation then we can fix the high priority items on the list and then go
forward from there.
Brian and Brandi Oakes
Burleson, Texas
75 Glenrook - "Harvey"
TZE165V101227
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Hope that helps.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: [GMCnet] Update on Harvey the RV and some other questions [message #227473 is a reply to message #227424] |
Mon, 28 October 2013 20:46 |
tphipps
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Minor suggestion. Replace interior lights with LEDs. Keeps battery alive much longer that incandescent bulbs. All interior lights are 12v.
If you are plugged into shore power or running the genset, your power converter will charge your battery. You might check your power converter to see if it is the original buzz box or P.O. had replaced it with a modern 3 stage converter. Original power converter will kill your house battery if left plugged in for extended periods.
This is the place for questions and answers.
Tom, MS II
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
[Updated on: Mon, 28 October 2013 20:49] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Update on Harvey the RV and some other questions [message #227521 is a reply to message #227519] |
Tue, 29 October 2013 00:54 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Brian Oakes wrote on Mon, 28 October 2013 16:01 |
Howdy!
I have been combing the operating manuals for my coach, just to figure out
what works and what doesn't, but I am left with a few questions. It appears
my coach has had the interior completely redone so I have having a hard time
figuring out what is stock and what isn't. For the most part, the coach
seems to be in decent conditions, but it does have engine/transmission
leaks. So far everything appears to be fixable. My questions are more along
the lines of where "should" things be.
1. The coach is registered as a Glenbrook, but I have found references
to an Elegenza II. Based on the TZE, can we confirm? I used the number to
confirm the color, but didn't find model.
2. I see references to a water input that is on the drivers rear at the
very back corner. This is different from the city water input further
towards the front. Mine is missing. I do have a water input by the propane.
Is this right?
3. When I put water in the water tank, it comes out what appears to be
a drain underneath the coach. Is there a plug? Or is there a valve inside
the coach? My plumbing doesn't seem to match the diagrams I have seen. Where
would the valve be?
4. Do most of the coaches have 2 water tanks?
5. Where is the valve normally located to empty the poop tank? I assume
it's gravity fed?
6. I am going to rebuild my Power Level airbag values but have seen
references to a re-engineered version? Anyone got a link?
7. The screws for my rear ladder supports at the top are missing. Not
sure if they got pulled out or just backed out. What should they be replaced
with?
8. By the circuit breaker panel in the cabinet, there is a switch and
an outlet. I replaced the power inverter and plugged it in. Is the switch
for the hot water heater?
9. When in the garage or at a camp site with power, what is the best
option to run the lights inside? My lights inside the galley etc appear to
be DC 12v. When I am plugged in, are those lights running off the AC cord,
or the DC battery? What are the best practices? If so, do I have to run the
generator to power those lights?
Thanks for the time and the question responses. Right now, we are just
trying to check out all the systems and get a better understanding of
operation then we can fix the high priority items on the list and then go
forward from there.
Brian and Brandi Oakes
Burleson, Texas
75 Glenrook - "Harvey"
TZE165V101227
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Answers
2. Some coaches had the water filler in the Propane compartment.
3. Drain valve is located inside the coach on the bottom rear of the water tank.
4. No. One water tank and one (or two on Coachmans) waste water tanks.
5. On GM fitter coaches, it is a little handle located behind the driver's side rear wheel. It is mounted to a rod that goes through the frame. That rod pulls the drain valve on the bottom rear of the black tank.
6. J. R. Slaten in Louisville makes and sells them. It is probably easier and quicker to get them through Jim Kanomata at Applied GMC.
7. Those screws were just plain sheet metal screws screwed into the fiberglass. You can get stainless replacement ones from your local hardware store. I always planned to pull the inside cap and fiberglass some inside reinforcements at those mounting points.
8. Yes. Leave it off if there is no water in the hot water tank. If left on with the tanks empty, it will burn up the heating element.
9. The primary purpose of the converter (when plugged in to shore power and turned on) is to supply 12 volts to the house accessories. The converter will also keep the house batteries charged. Hopefully you got a 3 stage converter that will not over charge the batteries if left on for days.
Use the interior 12 volt lights when parked. They will run off of the converter if plugged in and run off of the house batteries when not. If the house batteries get low they can be recharged using the main engine or by running the Onan. I have never run my two 6 volt golf cart house batteries completely dead. They will last a few days if you are careful not to overuse house accessories like lights refrigerator or furnace.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Update on Harvey the RV and some other questions [message #227588 is a reply to message #227521] |
Tue, 29 October 2013 11:54 |
Bob S.
Messages: 143
Registered: October 2012
Location: Rapid City, SD
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Brian, I can't answer all your questions as I have a Royale. However my ladder was in the same condition yours is and I was not sure replacing the screws would hold. I bought a Rivnut kit from Napa for another project on the GMC and only used it for one nut. I decided to try installing them in the fiberglass to reattach the ladder and it worked like a charm. So far they are holding very tight and have given the ladder a very solid feel. Hopefully they will continue to hold, but only time will tell in the long run. This project brought my cost per use (for the tool) from $100.00 dollars down to about $8.00. What a bargain! Hope this helps, Bob
Bob and Pam Schilling
Rapid City, SD
"78 Royale
[Updated on: Tue, 29 October 2013 11:55] Report message to a moderator |
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