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and the alternator saga continues [message #226276] Sun, 20 October 2013 11:53 Go to next message
skip2 is currently offline  skip2   United States
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Last week I posted about getting in on jumping the batteries out to charge from the onan and the battery wizard. Got the 100 amp caddy alternator together and checked good on the machine at Advanced Auto. On the old one I found the positive bridge from the diode bar had melted into at the stud going out the back, presume it was loose, got hot, got looser, got hotter, got looser ETC then it melted into.
Replacing it is where the fun began. Easy enough to change out, put the new one on and found the nut from the old one was smaller. Had to pull it out to find the right nut, afraid threads were messed up, found right nut and put back in and noticed the stud was loose when tightening down so had to pull it again take apart and tighten stud. Reinstalled and all was well till I checked charging and none to be had. Through trial and error I used the internal excitor terminal on the isolator and it started charging, didn't need it with the old one. This is where the mystery comes in, It barely charges through the isolator, mid 12s and if the lights aren't on it barely keeps up, if I jumper from alternator terminal to each battery terminal I get the full high 13's on both batteries individually. Is there built in resistance in the isolator. The isolator is a SURE POWER 9523A it says 95 amp limit, hard to believe 5 amps would make that much difference. Is this where the combiner would come in? Yes it has an APC cable. Any Thoughts. Thanks
Skip Hartline


74 Canyon Lands, FiTech, 3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny, Springfield Distributor, 2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
Re: and the alternator saga continues [message #226289 is a reply to message #226276] Sun, 20 October 2013 13:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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Combiner / isolator, it will not make any difference on your problem. Did you check the diodes in the alternator. This sounds like a couple of open diodes.

It also could be one heck of a load on the output side loading down the alternator, but I can not imagine where the load would be. Throw a clamp on ammeter around the alternator output lead (center terminal) of the isolator.

Finally is the alternator belt tight and not slipping. If it is slipping, the pulley will be very hot. Hot enough to burn your finger if you touch it too long.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: and the alternator saga continues [message #226295 is a reply to message #226276] Sun, 20 October 2013 15:24 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
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Is this a one wire alternator? If so the voltage drop across the isolator will cause your voltage to be low. Won 't work as far as I know. Sense cable to the alternator should be on the engine battery side of the isolator.

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Re: and the alternator saga continues [message #226300 is a reply to message #226295] Sun, 20 October 2013 15:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
skip2 is currently offline  skip2   United States
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Same old delco remy with bat stud and 2 wire connector just like the one that went bad other than the numbers on show it to be an 100 amp caddy.
Skip


74 Canyon Lands, FiTech, 3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny, Springfield Distributor, 2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
Re: and the alternator saga continues [message #226306 is a reply to message #226276] Sun, 20 October 2013 17:23 Go to previous messageGo to next message
George Beckman is currently offline  George Beckman   United States
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skip2 wrote on Sun, 20 October 2013 09:53

Last week I posted about getting in on jumping the batteries out to charge from the onan and the battery wizard. Got the 100 amp caddy alternator together and checked good on the machine at Advanced Auto. On the old one I found the positive bridge from the diode bar had melted into at the stud going out the back, presume it was loose, got hot, got looser, got hotter, got looser ETC then it melted into.
Replacing it is where the fun began.

Any Thoughts. Thanks
Skip Hartline


I am on my 6th alternator and hoping. Two with the burned bar you mentioned. Ine whiner we got tired of listening to. Others with irregular voltages. I also have had stripped threads with wrong size bolt on back adjustment and goofy nut for the main post.

I tried 2 NAPA, ma and pa shop, Delco rebuilt in Mischigan, and now have a O'Reily's that has made 2500 miles. It is a 100 amp and all others wer 80 amp.

Some lasted a year or two. On charged for only 900 miles.

Hoping this one is the silver bullet. Not sure it is any one company, just rushing repairs and so so diod sets.

By the way, in the desert once I ran a heavy wire from where the positive bar used to be to the outside. Ran fine for 1600 miles but I got weak hearted and changed it out. That bar sure looks like a weak link.

Good luck.


'74 Eleganza, SE, Howell + EBL
Best Wishes,
George
Re: [GMCnet] and the alternator saga continues [message #226307 is a reply to message #226300] Sun, 20 October 2013 17:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Mr ERFisher is currently offline  Mr ERFisher   United States
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If you jumper the center -alt- to the top stud (engine batt) does every thing work ok?

FREE WIFI @ Mickey D





On Oct 20, 2013, at 1:58 PM, Skip Hartline <skiphartline@aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> Same old delco remy with bat stud and 2 wire connector just like the one that went bad other than the numbers on show it to be an 100 amp caddy.
> Skip
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Re: [GMCnet] and the alternator saga continues [message #226309 is a reply to message #226307] Sun, 20 October 2013 17:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
skip2 is currently offline  skip2   United States
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The more I think about it the more I think it was wired wrong before, but working, somehow. There was the original big 12 ga in the harness and a loose extra 8 ga ran from the bat stud on the alt to the alt term on the isolator and the sense wire from the 2 wire plug was also on the bat terminal on the alt. I think the extra 8 gauge should be on the sense wire from the 2 wire plug and move it to the engine bat term on the isolator and unhook the internal excitor circuit from the isolator. Thats what I saw after looking at the factory wiring diagram. Don't know how it was working before. What say Ye?
Skip


74 Canyon Lands, FiTech, 3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny, Springfield Distributor, 2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
Re: and the alternator saga continues [message #226313 is a reply to message #226276] Sun, 20 October 2013 18:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
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When in doubt, put it back to stock. Otherwise you don't know what PO mess you are dealing with. Can't trouble shoot if the playing field isn't level. Knock on wood my 80 has been great. When time comes Ill do bearings and brushes and keep tge devil I know. Rebuilders ( mass type) are a joke

John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
Re: [GMCnet] and the alternator saga continues [message #226454 is a reply to message #226309] Mon, 21 October 2013 15:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Emery Stora is currently offline  Emery Stora   United States
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What do you mean by "the big 12 ga"?

A 8 ga wire is larger than a 12 ga.

The 8 ga usually runs from the output of the alternator to the center stud on the battery isolator.

The 12 ga is not heavy enough to carry the alternator current.

Emery Stora

On Oct 20, 2013, at 4:40 PM, Skip Hartline <skiphartline@aol.com> wrote:

>
>
> The more I think about it the more I think it was wired wrong before, but working, somehow. There was the original big 12 ga in the harness and a loose extra 8 ga ran from the bat stud on the alt to the alt term on the isolator and the sense wire from the 2 wire plug was also on the bat terminal on the alt. I think the extra 8 gauge should be on the sense wire from the 2 wire plug and move it to the engine bat term on the isolator and unhook the internal excitor circuit from the isolator. Thats what I saw after looking at the factory wiring diagram. Don't know how it was working before. What say Ye?
> Skip
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Re: [GMCnet] and the alternator saga continues [message #226476 is a reply to message #226454] Mon, 21 October 2013 19:21 Go to previous message
skip2 is currently offline  skip2   United States
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Sorry the senior moments are getting more often, ever since I started ordering off of the back of Denny's menu. I did go ahead and wire it like I last posted and all is well, 10-4, hunky dory, cool beans, jam up and jelly tight with the charging circuit now.
Thanks for all the inputs making me think it through.
Skip Hartline


74 Canyon Lands, FiTech, 3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny, Springfield Distributor, 2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
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