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| Re: Odd Metal Plate: [message #225532 is a reply to message #225518] |
Sun, 13 October 2013 20:36   |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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| noi wrote on Sun, 13 October 2013 19:50 |
Greetings:
While cleaning the grease & grim off the front clip center cross member, I found this metal plate welded to it:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/stuff/p51289-fc-bracket.html
Not sure what it was put there for - There was no hole or damage to the cross member, when I looked at the inside of the cross member where the plate was welded - It also looked like it had been "more" at one time, as the plate showed signs of something having been "cut off".
Since I have already asked one esoteric question... How about another 
Any one have any idea why studs/nuts were used on the front motor mount?
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/stuff/p51290-motor-mount.html
Seeing as the stud came out with the nut.... Why not have just used a bolt and washer in the first place?
Thanks for any thoughts you can/care to share,
Carl P.
76 Birchaven
South of Fremont
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Carl,
On a couple of coaches, I have seen a plate welded to anchor an added steering damper -- but usually further to one end of the crossmember.
Dennis
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
[Updated on: Mon, 14 October 2013 07:24] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Odd Metal Plate: [message #225547 is a reply to message #225518] |
Sun, 13 October 2013 22:08 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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If you look carefully, you can tell this was originally a piece of 'C' channel and the ears have been cut off with a cutoff wheel in a grinder.
I also suspect it was a steering stabilizer bracket. And yes,it is crappy welding. Probably flux cored wire and welded much too hot from the splatter and the plug of crap that came out of the mig nozzle on the right hand side.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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| Re: Odd Metal Plate: [message #225557 is a reply to message #225518] |
Mon, 14 October 2013 00:47 |
noi
Messages: 293
Registered: October 2010
Location: South of Fremont
Karma: 0
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Greetings:
As to studs/nuts:
Thanks C.Boyd – Makes sense that having studs would make it easier to hit the holes when the mounting engine and then getting nuts on the studs with a long reach socket up through the bottom access holes.
I had the luxury of working on the mount, with the engine removed, and did not think about the process as it would have been on an assembly line.
Curious though…. In a slow pace garage environment, where the mount could be pre-placed and adjusted as the engine is being mounted, would bolts “not” work for some reason?
As to “Odd Metal Plate”:
Dennis and Kerry were both correct - Robert Burkitt sent pictures showing the bracket and the steering damper attached to it.
For some reason, on my GMC, the bracket was cut off, a new “bracket” strapped to the relay tie rod, and a new right side bracket was attached to the right side tension bar bracket with additional support from an existing hole (hard to describe, but can get pictures if anyone is interested) – Have no idea why this was done.
Thanks for everyone's input - This forum is just GREAT!!!!
Carl P.
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| Re: Odd Metal Plate: [message #225565 is a reply to message #225557] |
Mon, 14 October 2013 06:15 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Yes bolts "would work" on the engine mount. Good chance you will have to use a line up guide like a tapered punch to line up 1 hole then pry the other to get both bolts started. If the holes are off any the bolts might be against the frame and booger the threads and could give false torque readings and compromise the bolts and could sheer. Then you have a motor mount with broke bolts in it. Yes it "would work" but might be more trouble later. If you don`t have time to do it right, when are you going to have time to re-do it??
| noi wrote on Mon, 14 October 2013 01:47 |
Greetings:
As to studs/nuts:
Thanks C.Boyd – Makes sense that having studs would make it easier to hit the holes when the mounting engine and then getting nuts on the studs with a long reach socket up through the bottom access holes.
I had the luxury of working on the mount, with the engine removed, and did not think about the process as it would have been on an assembly line.
Curious though…. In a slow pace garage environment, where the mount could be pre-placed and adjusted as the engine is being mounted, would bolts “not” work for some reason?
As to “Odd Metal Plate”:
Dennis and Kerry were both correct - Robert Burkitt sent pictures showing the bracket and the steering damper attached to it.
For some reason, on my GMC, the bracket was cut off, a new “bracket” strapped to the relay tie rod, and a new right side bracket was attached to the right side tension bar bracket with additional support from an existing hole (hard to describe, but can get pictures if anyone is interested) – Have no idea why this was done.
Thanks for everyone's input - This forum is just GREAT!!!!
Carl P.
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: Odd Metal Plate: [message #225597 is a reply to message #225557] |
Mon, 14 October 2013 11:26 |
midlf
Messages: 2212
Registered: July 2007
Location: SE Wisc. (Palmyra)
Karma: 1
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| noi wrote on Mon, 14 October 2013 00:47 |
Greetings:
As to studs/nuts:
Thanks C.Boyd – Makes sense that having studs would make it easier to hit the holes when the mounting engine and then getting nuts on the studs with a long reach socket up through the bottom access holes.
I had the luxury of working on the mount, with the engine removed, and did not think about the process as it would have been on an assembly line.
Curious though…. In a slow pace garage environment, where the mount could be pre-placed and adjusted as the engine is being mounted, would bolts “not” work for some reason?
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I just went through this. You do want to use studs. Bolt the motor mount (with studs installed) to engine, Install engine. Trying to move around the heavy engine is not easy and the studs help get the front mount into position by acting as locating pins.
Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
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