Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Propane Line Replacement (rubber, metal or something else)
| Re: [GMCnet] Propane Line Replacement [message #223963 is a reply to message #223712] |
Sun, 29 September 2013 08:52   |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Jon,
The hard copper is the easiest to work with and very forgiving. Super
easy to flare. I ran it over the R rear wheel well to the refer, and that
line can be used for the water heater also. Where the line went through
the bulkhead, I installed a rubber grommet then shot some expanding foam in
for good measure. This is the easiest route for the line. I also
installed a T , Extend A Stay fitting after the regulator and used that for
our portable BBQ. In the Kit, I came off the refer line, installed an
isolation valve and ran an extension with a quick disconnect into the coach
and used this in cold weather to run our Wave heater.
Steve F.
On Fri, Sep 27, 2013 at 8:20 AM, Jon Roche <lqqkatjon@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> I hate plumbing.... probably the same trying to plumb propane too. I see
> lots of trips to the propane store, or hardware store in the future, buying
> lots of wrong fittings, ect.
>
> I noticed my palm beach is almost all copper, with the exception of a
> rubber line that connects the regulator to a fitting that switches to
> copper on the bottom of the propane compartment.
>
> I too plan on installing a propane fridge, and water heater in the spring.
> so if anybody has insight as to what to use. Usually working with copper,
> I would think of sweating fittings, or such, but probably need to take some
> extra caution on existing propane lines, so will be wanting to see what the
> process is, as well as routes to run those lines.
>
> running inside, you have more chance of having gas leak inside coach,
> however running outside i would think more chance of damage.
>
>
> --
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Take care,
Steve
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| Re: [GMCnet] Propane Line Replacement [message #223964 is a reply to message #223963] |
Sun, 29 September 2013 08:54 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I forgot to mention, stick with 3/8 line and all the fittings will work
just fine. I prefer flare fittings but compression fittings will work.
After the regulator, the line pressure does not exceed 11" of water, or
plainly put, less than 2psi.
Steve F.
On Sun, Sep 29, 2013 at 6:52 AM, Steven Ferguson <botiemad11@gmail.com>wrote:
> Jon,
> The hard copper is the easiest to work with and very forgiving. Super
> easy to flare. I ran it over the R rear wheel well to the refer, and that
> line can be used for the water heater also. Where the line went through
> the bulkhead, I installed a rubber grommet then shot some expanding foam in
> for good measure. This is the easiest route for the line. I also
> installed a T , Extend A Stay fitting after the regulator and used that for
> our portable BBQ. In the Kit, I came off the refer line, installed an
> isolation valve and ran an extension with a quick disconnect into the coach
> and used this in cold weather to run our Wave heater.
> Steve F.
>
>
> On Fri, Sep 27, 2013 at 8:20 AM, Jon Roche <lqqkatjon@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> I hate plumbing.... probably the same trying to plumb propane too. I see
>> lots of trips to the propane store, or hardware store in the future, buying
>> lots of wrong fittings, ect.
>>
>> I noticed my palm beach is almost all copper, with the exception of a
>> rubber line that connects the regulator to a fitting that switches to
>> copper on the bottom of the propane compartment.
>>
>> I too plan on installing a propane fridge, and water heater in the
>> spring. so if anybody has insight as to what to use. Usually working with
>> copper, I would think of sweating fittings, or such, but probably need to
>> take some extra caution on existing propane lines, so will be wanting to
>> see what the process is, as well as routes to run those lines.
>>
>> running inside, you have more chance of having gas leak inside coach,
>> however running outside i would think more chance of damage.
>>
>>
>> --
>> 75 palm beach
>> St. Cloud, MN
>> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Take care,
> Steve
>
>
--
Take care,
Steve
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| Re: [GMCnet] Propane Line Replacement [message #223972 is a reply to message #223963] |
Sun, 29 September 2013 09:50 |
 |
USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Steve,
Just wanted to add a comment, the placement of the T for an external BBQ depends on if the external BBQ has a built in regulator or
not.
I installed a T and valve in Byron Songer's SOB and it needed to be upstream of the regulator as his portable Weber had a regulator
in it.
Two regulators in a row don't work too good!
Regards,
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Ferguson
Jon,
The hard copper is the easiest to work with and very forgiving. Super
easy to flare. I ran it over the R rear wheel well to the refer, and that
line can be used for the water heater also. Where the line went through
the bulkhead, I installed a rubber grommet then shot some expanding foam in
for good measure. This is the easiest route for the line. I also
installed a T , Extend A Stay fitting after the regulator and used that for
our portable BBQ. In the Kit, I came off the refer line, installed an
isolation valve and ran an extension with a quick disconnect into the coach
and used this in cold weather to run our Wave heater.
Steve F.
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Propane Line Replacement [message #223980 is a reply to message #223964] |
Sun, 29 September 2013 10:32 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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All,
11" H2O is about .4 psig, so the system is not under any high pressure. A lot of regulators can be set for 11"H2O, but may not have enough capacity (volume) to run several appliances at once as they can go into a condition call "Choked Flow." If you replace the regulator on the coach with one that is smaller in size and capacity then you could have problems with the furnace not having enough gas volume to run correctly. I am with Rob on this as to use the high pressure side to feed another regulator. If you want to run another LP appliance and it has a regulator installed, then you would need to remove it in order to use LP that is taken off after the installed regulator on the low pressure side, that said, modifying an existing LP device, although it should work would be an unwise unsafe choice IMPHO!
When we park for long periods of time such as the RV park in Tucson, I have a 30# external cylinder that I use to provide propane to the coach. I use the external tank because I can have it filled at an LP filling station for about 1/2 the price of having it delivered. I have a valve and "T" just after the coach LP tank valve and before the dual stage regulator to feed the system. I also have another take off on this hight pressure side to feed the BBQ. I use LP rated hoses purchased form my LP supplier here at home and inspect them regularly. Guys, if you need to replace your coach regulator be sure to use a dual stage regulator as that is required by RV code. Yes, you can use the single stage regulator and it is much cheaper, but it is NOT the way to go. Be safe instead of sorry!
JR Wright
GMC Great Laker MHC
GMC Eastern States
GMCMHI
TZE Zone Restorations
78 Buskirk 30' Stretch
1975 Avion (Under Reconstruction)
Michigan
On Sep 29, 2013, at 9:54 AM, Steven Ferguson <botiemad11@gmail.com> wrote:
> I forgot to mention, stick with 3/8 line and all the fittings will work
> just fine. I prefer flare fittings but compression fittings will work.
> After the regulator, the line pressure does not exceed 11" of water, or
> plainly put, less than 2psi.
> Steve F.
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 29, 2013 at 6:52 AM, Steven Ferguson <botiemad11@gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Jon,
>> The hard copper is the easiest to work with and very forgiving. Super
>> easy to flare. I ran it over the R rear wheel well to the refer, and that
>> line can be used for the water heater also. Where the line went through
>> the bulkhead, I installed a rubber grommet then shot some expanding foam in
>> for good measure. This is the easiest route for the line. I also
>> installed a T , Extend A Stay fitting after the regulator and used that for
>> our portable BBQ. In the Kit, I came off the refer line, installed an
>> isolation valve and ran an extension with a quick disconnect into the coach
>> and used this in cold weather to run our Wave heater.
>> Steve F.
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 27, 2013 at 8:20 AM, Jon Roche <lqqkatjon@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I hate plumbing.... probably the same trying to plumb propane too. I see
>>> lots of trips to the propane store, or hardware store in the future, buying
>>> lots of wrong fittings, ect.
>>>
>>> I noticed my palm beach is almost all copper, with the exception of a
>>> rubber line that connects the regulator to a fitting that switches to
>>> copper on the bottom of the propane compartment.
>>>
>>> I too plan on installing a propane fridge, and water heater in the
>>> spring. so if anybody has insight as to what to use. Usually working with
>>> copper, I would think of sweating fittings, or such, but probably need to
>>> take some extra caution on existing propane lines, so will be wanting to
>>> see what the process is, as well as routes to run those lines.
>>>
>>> running inside, you have more chance of having gas leak inside coach,
>>> however running outside i would think more chance of damage.
>>>
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: Propane Line Replacement [message #223993 is a reply to message #223636] |
Sun, 29 September 2013 12:34 |
Chris Tyler
Messages: 458
Registered: September 2013
Location: Odessa FL
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Agree with copper and forged fittigs all the way. New copper is easy to flare with a basic single flare tool. Practice a few before you run the line. Cap with duct tape before you run it, use as few connections as possible, and avoid compression fittings like the plague on LP. No teflon on flares, pipe thread only.
Oh yeah...remember to put the fitting on befor you flare it and leave a bit of slack in case you need to repair at some point.
A manometer to check the LP psi would be best. Beg borrow or steal one. If it drops, you have a leak.
76 Glenbrook
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| Re: [GMCnet] Propane Line Replacement [message #224049 is a reply to message #223840] |
Sun, 29 September 2013 20:38 |
Erv Troyer
Messages: 125
Registered: February 2004
Location: Lagrange, IN
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| emerystora wrote on Sat, 28 September 2013 08:54 |
Brake lines are double flared.
Gas lines only need a single flare. If you have a flaring tool for copper water lines that will work just fine.
Emery Stora
|
When I worked at Coachmen I noticed that all their copper tubing (which they made in-house) was double-lap flared. However, I believe they did that as a marketing gimmick, as they really bragged that up in their literature.
That was also the only RV company that I know of that ran every coach through a rain booth to check for water leaks. Since they have been bought out by a bigger company I don't know if they still do those "extras" or not.
Erv Troyer Lagrange, IN
74 Sequoia
reo43@aol.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Propane Line Replacement [message #224069 is a reply to message #223972] |
Mon, 30 September 2013 08:12 |
Steven Ferguson
Messages: 3447
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
|
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I should have brought up that part about the regulator on the appliance.
You are correct Rob, two in a row don't go. I replaced the regulator on my
BBQ with a straight hose that had a QD on the end.
Steve F
On Sun, Sep 29, 2013 at 7:50 AM, Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>wrote:
> Steve,
>
> Just wanted to add a comment, the placement of the T for an external BBQ
> depends on if the external BBQ has a built in regulator or
> not.
>
> I installed a T and valve in Byron Songer's SOB and it needed to be
> upstream of the regulator as his portable Weber had a regulator
> in it.
>
> Two regulators in a row don't work too good!
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Steven Ferguson
>
> Jon,
> The hard copper is the easiest to work with and very forgiving. Super
> easy to flare. I ran it over the R rear wheel well to the refer, and that
> line can be used for the water heater also. Where the line went through
> the bulkhead, I installed a rubber grommet then shot some expanding foam in
> for good measure. This is the easiest route for the line. I also
> installed a T , Extend A Stay fitting after the regulator and used that for
> our portable BBQ. In the Kit, I came off the refer line, installed an
> isolation valve and ran an extension with a quick disconnect into the coach
> and used this in cold weather to run our Wave heater.
> Steve F.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Take care,
Steve
_______________________________________________
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