Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » no start
| no start [message #223240] |
Fri, 20 September 2013 16:59  |
pzerkel
Messages: 212
Registered: September 2007
Location: Salisbury, IL
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Well after six years of ownership, I get my first no start experience. Coach has only being driven sparingly this summer (last time about 1 month ago on a 15-mile jaunt).
I just put on a Rockwell transmission pan (but can't see how that would have anything to do with fail to start). It cranks, but never tries to fire. I have not tried to troubleshoot yet.
First thought, was gas has been in there better part of a year. May be bad. But Mr. Onan fires right up. I don't know if Onan is more tolerant of aged gasoline though?
Anyway, picked up a fuel filter and hope to install it this weekend. We'll see if I can avoid calling the tow truck.
Any of you going through Springfield IL on your way home from Branson, and want to help? (just kidding-you're better off driving around Illinois).
Paul Zerkel
'78 Eleganza II
Salisbury IL (near Springfield)
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| Re: no start [message #223247 is a reply to message #223240] |
Fri, 20 September 2013 19:05  |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Sir: find an old spark plug out of anything and pull any plug wire and stick in on the spare spark plug and ground the electrode and crank. Got spark???
| pzerkel wrote on Fri, 20 September 2013 17:59 |
Well after six years of ownership, I get my first no start experience. Coach has only being driven sparingly this summer (last time about 1 month ago on a 15-mile jaunt).
I just put on a Rockwell transmission pan (but can't see how that would have anything to do with fail to start). It cranks, but never tries to fire. I have not tried to troubleshoot yet.
First thought, was gas has been in there better part of a year. May be bad. But Mr. Onan fires right up. I don't know if Onan is more tolerant of aged gasoline though?
Anyway, picked up a fuel filter and hope to install it this weekend. We'll see if I can avoid calling the tow truck.
Any of you going through Springfield IL on your way home from Branson, and want to help? (just kidding-you're better off driving around Illinois).
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: no start [message #223264 is a reply to message #223240] |
Fri, 20 September 2013 21:57 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Got spark???Then pull the hatch and air cleaner. Hold choke open and confirm accelerator pump is spraying in each primary as you work the throttle. Bad gas would still run. Mechanical fuel pumps and Quadrajets are fairly forgiving. In tank pumps and port injectors are not so forgiving. .
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: no start [message #223312 is a reply to message #223240] |
Sat, 21 September 2013 16:39 |
skip2
Messages: 544
Registered: September 2011
Location: Winter Haven,FL (center o...
Karma: 3
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There is also an ignition boost wire on the starter solenoid
Which could have got pumped during the pan install
Skip hartline
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
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| Re: no start [message #223316 is a reply to message #223312] |
Sat, 21 September 2013 18:45 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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| skip2 wrote on Sat, 21 September 2013 14:39 |
There is also an ignition boost wire on the starter solenoid
Which could have got pumped during the pan install
Skip hartline
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I don't think a '78, with HEI, has an ignition boost wire from the solenoid. That is probably only on '73s and 74s with breaker point ignition.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: no start [message #223318 is a reply to message #223240] |
Sat, 21 September 2013 19:20 |
pzerkel
Messages: 212
Registered: September 2007
Location: Salisbury, IL
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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First thanks to everyone who has offered pointers.
update...Pulled the air cleaner. Found a large mud dauber nest on the right (passenger) side of carburetor. Nest was into/around the linkages there. I carefully pried nest loose with a screwdriver, and used shop-vac to clean up.
Checked for spark using one of those in-line light up things. It indicated I have spark. (I have an aversion to holding onto spark plug wires while cranking the starter).
Per JohnL, I held the choke open and pumped throttle. It was not obvious to me that accelorator pump was spraying. No Start. I opened the choke, sprayed a small amount of carb cleaner into primaries. Cranked, and the engine did actually fire briefly, but did not run.
So with everyone's help, even with my limited ICE troubleshooting skills, it appears I have a fuel or fuel delivery problem. It is oldish (~1 year old) gas in the tank, but FWIW the Onan does start and run.
Now some background and a couple questions. I have a 78, but a PPO had installed a 455 with an Edelbrock intake. The more I look and learn, the more it appears to me the engine swap was done "unprofessionally".
I attempted to change the fuel filter. There is a large 1" "nut" that appears to screw directly into the carb, and a smaller 5/8" nut on the fuel line that appears to screw into the 1" nut. Which of these needs to be removed to change fuel filter? I guessed it was the 5/8". I attempted to remove it (and I was using a flare wrench). But that nut is rounded so bad, that even with the flare wrench, it's slipping. I do not have a 1" flare wrench, so was holding that stable with an open end, while the flare wrench was slipping around the smaller fitting.
Furthermore, there is a short piece of steel fuel line going from the carb hose-clamped to a (well worn looking) rubber fuel line, which is hose-clamped to another short piece of steel line, that is connected to the mechanical fuel pump.
The rubber line has very little slack, is snug against the engine block (probably to keep it out of the belts/fan. But the setup just seems Rube Goldberg.
Wasn't there originally a steel line from the fuel pump all the way to the carburetor?
I suspect that the combo of the 455 swapped into the '78, and the Edelbrock intake means that any steel line would be "non-standard" and need to be fabricated. Or is the flex fuel line there okay?
So to summarize, mud dauber nest, spark okay, (appears) no fuel to carb, rounded nut on fuel line, questionable fuel line from fuel pump to Quadrajet.
Now to decide if I want to try to fix this or make a call Monday morning.
Paul Zerkel
'78 Eleganza II
Salisbury IL (near Springfield)
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| Re: no start [message #223321 is a reply to message #223318] |
Sat, 21 September 2013 19:55 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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Sir: you are doing good. First I might take a small squirt bottle and fill the carb float bowl thru the vent (tall hole next to air cleaner mounting stud). This will get it running as you may have just lost prime. Sometimes you have to fill 2 times to keep running. If you remove the filter, Hold the 1" filter housing and turn the 5/8 with a small pipe wrench or vise grips. By now it is your only choice, I prefer pipe wrench as vice grips has a tendency to flatten the nut on the line and twist it.. Put on tame way tightening the housing then hold the housing and tighten line till you can replace. Jim B sells a nice flexible insulated line. Your gas inlet does come out the front?? When you get the filter off crank the engine to see if fuel pump is working. If all this does not work you have either a bad fuel pump or a bad fuel line to the fuel pump from tanks sucking air. Keep up the good work, you are almost there.
| pzerkel wrote on Sat, 21 September 2013 20:20 |
First thanks to everyone who has offered pointers.
update...Pulled the air cleaner. Found a large mud dauber nest on the right (passenger) side of carburetor. Nest was into/around the linkages there. I carefully pried nest loose with a screwdriver, and used shop-vac to clean up.
Checked for spark using one of those in-line light up things. It indicated I have spark. (I have an aversion to holding onto spark plug wires while cranking the starter).
Per JohnL, I held the choke open and pumped throttle. It was not obvious to me that accelorator pump was spraying. No Start. I opened the choke, sprayed a small amount of carb cleaner into primaries. Cranked, and the engine did actually fire briefly, but did not run.
So with everyone's help, even with my limited ICE troubleshooting skills, it appears I have a fuel or fuel delivery problem. It is oldish (~1 year old) gas in the tank, but FWIW the Onan does start and run.
Now some background and a couple questions. I have a 78, but a PPO had installed a 455 with an Edelbrock intake. The more I look and learn, the more it appears to me the engine swap was done "unprofessionally".
I attempted to change the fuel filter. There is a large 1" "nut" that appears to screw directly into the carb, and a smaller 5/8" nut on the fuel line that appears to screw into the 1" nut. Which of these needs to be removed to change fuel filter? I guessed it was the 5/8". I attempted to remove it (and I was using a flare wrench). But that nut is rounded so bad, that even with the flare wrench, it's slipping. I do not have a 1" flare wrench, so was holding that stable with an open end, while the flare wrench was slipping around the smaller fitting.
Furthermore, there is a short piece of steel fuel line going from the carb hose-clamped to a (well worn looking) rubber fuel line, which is hose-clamped to another short piece of steel line, that is connected to the mechanical fuel pump.
The rubber line has very little slack, is snug against the engine block (probably to keep it out of the belts/fan. But the setup just seems Rube Goldberg.
Wasn't there originally a steel line from the fuel pump all the way to the carburetor?
I suspect that the combo of the 455 swapped into the '78, and the Edelbrock intake means that any steel line would be "non-standard" and need to be fabricated. Or is the flex fuel line there okay?
So to summarize, mud dauber nest, spark okay, (appears) no fuel to carb, rounded nut on fuel line, questionable fuel line from fuel pump to Quadrajet.
Now to decide if I want to try to fix this or make a call Monday morning.
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: no start [message #223322 is a reply to message #223321] |
Sat, 21 September 2013 20:13 |
C Boyd
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma: 18
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Senior Member |
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I just re read that your fuel line to carb has a section of rubber in it. Probably from a previous inline filter. You can remove one end and crank to see if fuel pump is working. Fuel pump is easy. one metal line one rubber one bolt, one nut. I have it easier to attach the metal line by hand 2 turns or more before tightening the mounting bolts. clean old gasket off and use non hardening gasket maker to seal both sides of gasket. You can see it better if you remove the fender liner and wheel but I have done it in Auto Zone parking lot on my back.
| C Boyd wrote on Sat, 21 September 2013 20:55 |
Sir: you are doing good. First I might take a small squirt bottle and fill the carb float bowl thru the vent (tall hole next to air cleaner mounting stud). This will get it running as you may have just lost prime. Sometimes you have to fill 2 times to keep running. If you remove the filter, Hold the 1" filter housing and turn the 5/8 with a small pipe wrench or vise grips. By now it is your only choice, I prefer pipe wrench as vice grips has a tendency to flatten the nut on the line and twist it.. Put on tame way tightening the housing then hold the housing and tighten line till you can replace. Jim B sells a nice flexible insulated line. Your gas inlet does come out the front?? When you get the filter off crank the engine to see if fuel pump is working. If all this does not work you have either a bad fuel pump or a bad fuel line to the fuel pump from tanks sucking air. Keep up the good work, you are almost there.
| pzerkel wrote on Sat, 21 September 2013 20:20 |
First thanks to everyone who has offered pointers.
update...Pulled the air cleaner. Found a large mud dauber nest on the right (passenger) side of carburetor. Nest was into/around the linkages there. I carefully pried nest loose with a screwdriver, and used shop-vac to clean up.
Checked for spark using one of those in-line light up things. It indicated I have spark. (I have an aversion to holding onto spark plug wires while cranking the starter).
Per JohnL, I held the choke open and pumped throttle. It was not obvious to me that accelorator pump was spraying. No Start. I opened the choke, sprayed a small amount of carb cleaner into primaries. Cranked, and the engine did actually fire briefly, but did not run.
So with everyone's help, even with my limited ICE troubleshooting skills, it appears I have a fuel or fuel delivery problem. It is oldish (~1 year old) gas in the tank, but FWIW the Onan does start and run.
Now some background and a couple questions. I have a 78, but a PPO had installed a 455 with an Edelbrock intake. The more I look and learn, the more it appears to me the engine swap was done "unprofessionally".
I attempted to change the fuel filter. There is a large 1" "nut" that appears to screw directly into the carb, and a smaller 5/8" nut on the fuel line that appears to screw into the 1" nut. Which of these needs to be removed to change fuel filter? I guessed it was the 5/8". I attempted to remove it (and I was using a flare wrench). But that nut is rounded so bad, that even with the flare wrench, it's slipping. I do not have a 1" flare wrench, so was holding that stable with an open end, while the flare wrench was slipping around the smaller fitting.
Furthermore, there is a short piece of steel fuel line going from the carb hose-clamped to a (well worn looking) rubber fuel line, which is hose-clamped to another short piece of steel line, that is connected to the mechanical fuel pump.
The rubber line has very little slack, is snug against the engine block (probably to keep it out of the belts/fan. But the setup just seems Rube Goldberg.
Wasn't there originally a steel line from the fuel pump all the way to the carburetor?
I suspect that the combo of the 455 swapped into the '78, and the Edelbrock intake means that any steel line would be "non-standard" and need to be fabricated. Or is the flex fuel line there okay?
So to summarize, mud dauber nest, spark okay, (appears) no fuel to carb, rounded nut on fuel line, questionable fuel line from fuel pump to Quadrajet.
Now to decide if I want to try to fix this or make a call Monday morning.
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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| Re: no start [message #223323 is a reply to message #223318] |
Sat, 21 September 2013 20:52 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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| pzerkel wrote on Sat, 21 September 2013 17:20 |
First thanks to everyone who has offered pointers.
update...Pulled the air cleaner. Found a large mud dauber nest on the right (passenger) side of carburetor. Nest was into/around the linkages there. I carefully pried nest loose with a screwdriver, and used shop-vac to clean up.
Checked for spark using one of those in-line light up things. It indicated I have spark. (I have an aversion to holding onto spark plug wires while cranking the starter).
Per JohnL, I held the choke open and pumped throttle. It was not obvious to me that accelorator pump was spraying. No Start. I opened the choke, sprayed a small amount of carb cleaner into primaries. Cranked, and the engine did actually fire briefly, but did not run.
So with everyone's help, even with my limited ICE troubleshooting skills, it appears I have a fuel or fuel delivery problem. It is oldish (~1 year old) gas in the tank, but FWIW the Onan does start and run.
Now some background and a couple questions. I have a 78, but a PPO had installed a 455 with an Edelbrock intake. The more I look and learn, the more it appears to me the engine swap was done "unprofessionally".
I attempted to change the fuel filter. There is a large 1" "nut" that appears to screw directly into the carb, and a smaller 5/8" nut on the fuel line that appears to screw into the 1" nut. Which of these needs to be removed to change fuel filter? I guessed it was the 5/8". I attempted to remove it (and I was using a flare wrench). But that nut is rounded so bad, that even with the flare wrench, it's slipping. I do not have a 1" flare wrench, so was holding that stable with an open end, while the flare wrench was slipping around the smaller fitting.
Furthermore, there is a short piece of steel fuel line going from the carb hose-clamped to a (well worn looking) rubber fuel line, which is hose-clamped to another short piece of steel line, that is connected to the mechanical fuel pump.
The rubber line has very little slack, is snug against the engine block (probably to keep it out of the belts/fan. But the setup just seems Rube Goldberg.
Wasn't there originally a steel line from the fuel pump all the way to the carburetor?
I suspect that the combo of the 455 swapped into the '78, and the Edelbrock intake means that any steel line would be "non-standard" and need to be fabricated. Or is the flex fuel line there okay?
So to summarize, mud dauber nest, spark okay, (appears) no fuel to carb, rounded nut on fuel line, questionable fuel line from fuel pump to Quadrajet.
Now to decide if I want to try to fix this or make a call Monday morning.
|
It would be a REALLY good idea to replace the fuel hose/line from the mechanical fuel pump to the carburetor. A rubber hose in that position can be dangerous as it is susceptible to leakage and under pressure. The one form Jim B (or Jim K) that Chuck mentions is a good choice, but a standard steel line for the 455 should also work, IIRC, Jim K sells both options. You need to replace that line due to the rounded off nut anyway.
Be VERY careful when you replace the filter behind the big nut. The threads are very fine and susceptible to damage very easily. As Chuck said, thread it in by hand as far as you can get it, at least two or three turns, before you put a wrench to it. There is also a thin nylon washer that acts as a gasket to seal the big 1" 'nut' to the carburetor housing.
Since you have verified that you have spark, priming the carb will probably get it running.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: no start [message #223327 is a reply to message #223323] |
Sat, 21 September 2013 21:25 |
pzerkel
Messages: 212
Registered: September 2007
Location: Salisbury, IL
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Would the standard 455 steel line (fuel pump-carburetor) work with the Edelbrock intake?
Paul Zerkel
'78 Eleganza II
Salisbury IL (near Springfield)
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| Re: no start [message #223328 is a reply to message #223327] |
Sat, 21 September 2013 21:28 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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| pzerkel wrote on Sat, 21 September 2013 21:25 |
Would the standard 455 steel line (fuel pump-carburetor) work with the Edelbrock intake?
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NO -- measure the total length of the current line before you call Jim Bounds so he can advise if his flexible line will work.
Dennis
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: no start [message #223335 is a reply to message #223328] |
Sat, 21 September 2013 22:37 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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| Dennis S wrote on Sat, 21 September 2013 19:28 |
| pzerkel wrote on Sat, 21 September 2013 21:25 |
Would the standard 455 steel line (fuel pump-carburetor) work with the Edelbrock intake?
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NO -- measure the total length of the current line before you call Jim Bounds so he can advise if his flexible line will work.
Dennis
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Dennis is correct. I overlooked the part about the Edelbrokk manifold. Jim B's heat shielded braided steel line MIGHT fit, but a standard steel line probably will not.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: no start [message #223404 is a reply to message #223312] |
Mon, 23 September 2013 03:51 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| skip2 wrote on Sat, 21 September 2013 16:39 |
There is also an ignition boost wire on the starter solenoid
Which could have got pumped during the pan install
Skip hartline
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That wire does not exist on his. It is a 1978 with HEI.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: no start [message #223580 is a reply to message #223240] |
Wed, 25 September 2013 21:24 |
pzerkel
Messages: 212
Registered: September 2007
Location: Salisbury, IL
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I guess I can change the title to "started"!
Still have some things to do, but I got it started & ran it for a few minutes this evening. I had today off work, so had a chance to do some GMC stuff.
I replaced the fuel filter in the carburetor. First time I have done that in the 6 years I've had it.
The old rubber line between the fuel pump and carburetor is gone! For now, I am using one of the insulated, braided steel flexible lines from Jim K. After some offline discussion I have decided I would rather get a steel line made up. I have some 3/8" brake line, and a bender, but will need to get a shop to do the flaring. The Jim K line let me check it out. I think it is safe to say that this braided line I have for now is a whole lot better than what was there (even if not as good as steel).
Fuel pump. I have not replaced yet, but have one here, and will tommorrow or this weekend. When I was taking it apart, I had the old hose off the carb, and checked that the fuel pump was pumping fuel. After I got it back together with the new line and running, I was watching for leaks. The carb end stayed dry. The fuel pump looked like there was a leak. But it did not appear to be leaking at the fittings. Instead it looked like the "neck" of the pump was getting wet. Do these pumps sometimes start leaking around the housing? Obviously it needs to be replaced in any case.
Thanks to everyone who offered pointers. Feels much better to know it will start/run, even when I am aware there is still work to do to get it right/safe.
Paul Zerkel
'78 Eleganza II
Salisbury IL (near Springfield)
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| Re: [GMCnet] no start [message #223590 is a reply to message #223580] |
Thu, 26 September 2013 07:02 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Paul,
Just wondering what made you decide you want a solid line between the fuel pump and the carb? The flexible braided stainless steel
line that the Jim's sell is aircraft quality, lined with Teflon. That's what is used for aircraft fuel, hydraulic, and pneumatic
lines. I am not sure what that line is rated for but I can GA-RON-TEE it is a hell of a lot more than what the fuel pump puts out!
The lines used on aircraft are rated for over 1000 pounds per square inch. Plus being insulated it is shielded from heat generated
by the engine.
Regards,
Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Zerkel
I guess I can change the title to "started"!
Still have some things to do, but I got it started & ran it for a few minutes this evening. I had today off work, so had a chance to
do some GMC stuff.
I replaced the fuel filter in the carburetor. First time I have done that in the 6 years I've had it.
The old rubber line between the fuel pump and carburetor is gone! For now, I am using one of the insulated, braided steel flexible
lines from Jim K. After some offline discussion I have decided I would rather get a steel line made up. I have some 3/8" brake line,
and a bender, but will need to get a shop to do the flaring. The Jim K line let me check it out. I think it is safe to say that
this braided line I have for now is a whole lot better than what was there (even if not as good as steel).
Fuel pump. I have not replaced yet, but have one here, and will tommorrow or this weekend. When I was taking it apart, I had the old
hose off the carb, and checked that the fuel pump was pumping fuel. After I got it back together with the new line and running, I
was watching for leaks. The carb end stayed dry. The fuel pump looked like there was a leak. But it did not appear to be leaking at
the fittings. Instead it looked like the "neck" of the pump was getting wet. Do these pumps sometimes start leaking around the
housing? Obviously it needs to be replaced in any case.
Thanks to everyone who offered pointers. Feels much better to know it will start/run, even when I am aware there is still work to do
to get it right/safe.
--
Paul
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] no start [message #223595 is a reply to message #223590] |
Thu, 26 September 2013 09:03 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Paul,
I am in agreement with Rob on the use of the insulated flexible braided SS fuel line from the fuel pump to top of motor that both Jim B and Jim K sell. For those out there that wish to use it, get it from who you prefer! I don't see any downside in using it on your motor. My MPFI has braided lines on top of the motor and the lines to and from the motor are SS braided also.
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/853
As for bending your own fuel line out of metal tubing, it is not easily done without the proper bending tools and flaring tools. The bends up by the carb are a very tight radius right after the carb fitting. Unless you're experienced in bending tubing you will find that it is much cheaper to just buy the necessary fuel line piece from the Jim's than the oops pile at your feet. I have bent tubing for on and off for 40+ years and I still at times get it wrong. By the time you pay to have someone do the flaring you have spent much more that just buy the finished piece.
http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/918
Just select the one for your size engine.
JR Wright
78 Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion
Michigan
On Sep 26, 2013, at 8:02 AM, "Rob Mueller" <robmueller@iinet.net.au> wrote:
> Paul,
>
> Just wondering what made you decide you want a solid line between the fuel pump and the carb? The flexible braided stainless steel
> line that the Jim's sell is aircraft quality, lined with Teflon. That's what is used for aircraft fuel, hydraulic, and pneumatic
> lines. I am not sure what that line is rated for but I can GA-RON-TEE it is a hell of a lot more than what the fuel pump puts out!
> The lines used on aircraft are rated for over 1000 pounds per square inch. Plus being insulated it is shielded from heat generated
> by the engine.
>
> Regards,
> Rob
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Zerkel
>
> I guess I can change the title to "started"!
>
> Still have some things to do, but I got it started & ran it for a few minutes this evening. I had today off work, so had a chance to
> do some GMC stuff.
>
> I replaced the fuel filter in the carburetor. First time I have done that in the 6 years I've had it.
>
> The old rubber line between the fuel pump and carburetor is gone! For now, I am using one of the insulated, braided steel flexible
> lines from Jim K. After some offline discussion I have decided I would rather get a steel line made up. I have some 3/8" brake line,
> and a bender, but will need to get a shop to do the flaring. The Jim K line let me check it out. I think it is safe to say that
> this braided line I have for now is a whole lot better than what was there (even if not as good as steel).
>
> Fuel pump. I have not replaced yet, but have one here, and will tommorrow or this weekend. When I was taking it apart, I had the old
> hose off the carb, and checked that the fuel pump was pumping fuel. After I got it back together with the new line and running, I
> was watching for leaks. The carb end stayed dry. The fuel pump looked like there was a leak. But it did not appear to be leaking at
> the fittings. Instead it looked like the "neck" of the pump was getting wet. Do these pumps sometimes start leaking around the
> housing? Obviously it needs to be replaced in any case.
>
> Thanks to everyone who offered pointers. Feels much better to know it will start/run, even when I am aware there is still work to do
> to get it right/safe.
>
> --
> Paul
>
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] no start [message #223596 is a reply to message #223595] |
Thu, 26 September 2013 09:42 |
pzerkel
Messages: 212
Registered: September 2007
Location: Salisbury, IL
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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OK, I get it.
I will say this. First the reason that the "standard steel lines" from Applied will not work, is that I have an Edelbrock intake manifold.
Some offline discussion led me to believe that steel line may be better. Plus it seems worth asking "If the braided line is so much better, then why does Applied still sell the pre-formed steel lines at all?" Are people really that anxious to save $17.48?
I think we can all agree that any steel (solid or braided) is better than rubber fuel hose.
Certainly the braided flex line is easier to work with and route. I simply do not have enough knowledge to absolutely say whether solid steel is better/worse than the solid steel. But common sense does tell me that they are both absolutely better than rubber line.
Paul Zerkel
'78 Eleganza II
Salisbury IL (near Springfield)
[Updated on: Thu, 26 September 2013 09:49] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] no start [message #223811 is a reply to message #223596] |
Fri, 27 September 2013 21:17 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Paul,
Since you have an Edelbrock manifold the carb sits higher, I am reasonably confident the braided SS flex line won't fit either.
If you install a solid steel line you will have to loosen the carb to replace the filter.
There are guys that frequent this forum that would DEFINETLY want to save $17.48.
I do have enough experience and can say that in some cases a solid line would be better and in some cases a braided SS flex line
would be better. In this case the braided SS flex line is better.
Since you have a "custom" installation you're going to have make your own fuel line or find someone that can. If you don't have
experience bending and flaring tubing you'd better find someone that has, you don't want fuel pouring out on top of your engine.
Rob M.
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Zerkel
OK, I get it.
I will say this. First the reason that the "standard steel lines" from Applied will not work, is that I have an Edelbrock intake
manifold.
Some offline discussion led me to believe that steel line may be better. Plus it seems worth asking "If the braided line is so much
better, then why does Applied still sell the pre-formed steel lines at all?" Are people really that anxious to save $17.48?
I think we can all agree that any steel (solid or braided) is better than rubber fuel hose.
Certainly the braided flex line is easier to work with and route. I simply do not have enough knowledge to absolutely say whether
solid steel is better/worse than the braided steel flex. But common sense does tell me that they are both absolutely better than
rubber line.
--
Paul
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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