| [GMCnet] Aligning the steering wheel [message #220428] |
Thu, 29 August 2013 21:56  |
glwgmc
Messages: 1014
Registered: June 2004
Karma:
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Senior Member |
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Hi Chuck and Emory,
The way I find works for most coaches is to first and foremost, set ride height dead on the factory spec. Drive the coach two to five miles to be sure ride height remains correct after the suspension fully settles. Factory settings are to the TOP of the slot. The go/no go gauge I supply with my alignment kits works to the CENTER of the slot as the head makes up for the +- built into the factory spec.
When you are sure ride height is correct, then push or drive your coach up onto the turn plates. Do not jack up the coach at this point! Turn the steering wheel to lock one way, mark the steering wheel and a spot on the dash just as JimH said, then count steering wheel rotations back to lock the other way. Now move the wheel half that number of turns and your steering box will be centered. I have heard, but don't know that some early steering boxes had no stops so am not sure if this works for all coaches, but it does for most.
Now attach the stand off arms arms from the alignment kit to both front wheels and the laser targets to the frame one side at a time. Treat the two front wheels independently. Loosen the locks and turn the tie rod adjusters to bring both wheels to be frame parallel independently. Pay no attention to where the steering wheel points! You first want both front wheels parallel with the frame WITH THE STEERING BOX CENTERED. This is your starting point. if you have an adjustable drag link, use that to bring the steering wheel to straight. If not, move the steering wheel on the shaft without moving the steering box joist like JimH said. The key is both wheels frame parallel with the steering box centered. The position of the wheel is cosmetic, while the position of the box and wheels is critical.
Ride height first. Steering box centered second. Front wheels frame parallel third. Caster forth. Camber fifth. Measuring rear wheels for frame parallel sixth. Measuring rear wheels for camber seventh. Do all your checking and adjusting in this order and you will be right on every time. Mix up the order and you are only guessing.......and the Gods of chance will determine how your coach drives.
My experience, anyway. Hope this helps.
Jerry
Jerry Work
The Dovetail Joint
Fine furniture designed & hand crafted
in the 1907 former Masonic Temple building
in historic Kerby, OR
Http://jerrywork.com
541-592-5360
Cell 541-499-1027
.........
C Boyd wrote on Thu, 29 August 2013 14:45
> Sir, The way I do it. Park the coach with wheels straight forward. Do not jack it up. Unhook the drag link and one end of both tie rods. Put the idler arm and relay lever as close to 90* as possible with a square then turn the tie rods till they will drop fit, same on the drag link after box is centered. If you are starting from scratch or wheels have been disturbed set the toe as close as possible with wheels on the ground before hooking up tie rods.
>
>
> JohnL455 wrote on Thu, 29 August 2013 13:47
>> Emery I think the Pitman is that way as you have stated before, but the wheel to column on GM is movable even though the scribe should be at 12 and match the wheel scribe, otherwise the canceling cam/ box is not on center. But that is not what I am asking. Just wondering how to know the idler and relay are straight by the tie adjustment to get those straight. My rear is 3/4 high by auto so I let it adjust then blow off 2 seconds and it's right after recheck. Front height is correct middle of slot. I need to get rear adjustment links as I don't think I'll get it closer without.
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C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
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Jerry & Sharon Work
78 Royale
Kerby, OR
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