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House bank charging issue [message #219990] Mon, 26 August 2013 11:39 Go to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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For the past 6 years, we didn't have a problem.
We only traveled in the spring and fall and usually drove for 10~12 hours a day and stopped at the rally ground where we had shore power. That or we did weekend trips that were not a problem.

Now we are doing leisurely travel in the summer, our under-counter size refrigerator (all you can fit in a 23's reefer hole) is a power hungry monster if it is over 70° and we can't keep the house bank up with an alternator that tops out at 13.6 and drops to 13.2 when the bank is less than 50%. Even then, it is push near 90 amps, but the regulator (even the new one) cuts it down too soon.

Does anybody have a plan to push the exist 10SI alternator to higher to a voltage out so that I can use nearly the machine's capability?

If I can do this, I could do with a lot less APU time during an excursion like the last.

Please,
Don't suggest an absorption refrigerator unless you are going to give me one. Even then, I have to talk Mary out of the extra storage freezer volume that we now have. If I had the ~1K$us to spend on it, I would replace the Norcold with another. The charm of the cheap dorm reefer and the HF inverter is that the package cost was less than 200$.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: House bank charging issue [message #219991 is a reply to message #219990] Mon, 26 August 2013 12:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
lqqkatjon is currently offline  lqqkatjon   United States
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matt,

I have no idea on your voltage question. only thing I would wonder, if you ran an 12volt to 110V inverter off of your 12volt producing alternator, to the PD progressive charger. and let the PD jump it up to the higher voltage to charge the batteries faster???

but that sounds like poor efficiency when I type it out.

I use blocks of ice in my original norcold fridge when I am not plugging in. Really helps the power consumption. takes up some room in the fridge, but I am thinking it gives me doubles the time before the batteries are dead.








Jon Roche 75 palm beach EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now. St. Cloud, MN http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
Re: House bank charging issue [message #219992 is a reply to message #219990] Mon, 26 August 2013 12:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
RF_Burns is currently offline  RF_Burns   Canada
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Matt,
If you recall, I run an electric fridge as well (7.5 cubic ft.).

According to the display on my Samlex pure-sine wave inverter, it takes 500-600 watts to start then drops to 50-60 watts while running. It even shows as low as 30 watts while running, but I believe the low reading is because the power is at the low end of the 1500W inverter's capacity. The specs says 90watts while running, so even with inverter loses that would equate to no more than 10 amps.

Have you considered the inverter as the cause of your issues?

Switching to a pure-sine wave inverter should decrease your power consumption somewhat, and quieter operation.

I'm going to add a delay-on relay to the fridge compressor so that if I switch power sources while the compressor is running, it doesn't stall and trip its limit switch.


Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
Re: [GMCnet] House bank charging issue [message #219994 is a reply to message #219991] Mon, 26 August 2013 12:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickeysss is currently offline  mickeysss   United States
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block ice is a great idea in fridge to slow compressor time,

how do you do this in milk containers cut in half? frozen,

mickey anaheim ca. 77 palm beach.


On Aug 26, 2013, at 10:07 AM, Jon Roche wrote:

>
>
> matt,
>
> I have no idea on your voltage question. only thing I would wonder, if you ran an 12volt to 110V inverter off of your 12volt producing alternator, to the PD progressive charger. and let the PD jump it up to the higher voltage to charge the batteries faster???
>
> but that sounds like poor efficiency when I type it out.
>
> I use blocks of ice in my original norcold fridge when I am not plugging in. Really helps the power consumption. takes up some room in the fridge, but I am thinking it gives me doubles the time before the batteries are dead.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> 75 palm beach
> St. Cloud, MN
> http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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Re: [GMCnet] House bank charging issue [message #219996 is a reply to message #219994] Mon, 26 August 2013 12:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
tphipps is currently offline  tphipps   United States
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I freeze plastic bottles of water before I leave, helps cool the frig faster and tempers out the temperature swing. I also chill the frig before I leave home. Faster cooling on shore power.
Unfrozen bottles of water are consumed as needed.
Tom, MS II


2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552 KA4CSG
Re: [GMCnet] House bank charging issue [message #219997 is a reply to message #219996] Mon, 26 August 2013 12:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mickeysss is currently offline  mickeysss   United States
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great idea, extra water as well, fantastic freebee idea, great,

i love these passive do more with less ideas.

thank you

mickey anaheim ca. 77 palm beach.


On Aug 26, 2013, at 10:52 AM, Thomas Phipps wrote:

>
>
> I freeze plastic bottles of water before I leave, helps cool the frig faster and tempers out the temperature swing. I also chill the frig before I leave home. Faster cooling on shore power.
> Unfrozen bottles of water are consumed as needed.
> Tom, MS II
> --
> 1975 GMC Avion, under forever re-construction
> Vicksburg, MS. 3.7 miles from I-20
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Re: House bank charging issue [message #219998 is a reply to message #219990] Mon, 26 August 2013 13:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
bwevers is currently offline  bwevers   United States
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A small refrigerator with the Dan Foss compressor
should not be drawing that much power, IMHO.
90 amps times 13.2 volts = almost 1200 watts.

Regards,
Bill


Bill Wevers GMC49ers, GMC Western States 1975 Glenbrook - Manny Powerdrive, OneTon 455 F Block, G heads San Jose
Re: [GMCnet] House bank charging issue [message #220029 is a reply to message #219990] Mon, 26 August 2013 18:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jhbridges is currently offline  jhbridges   United States
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  The charm of the
cheap dorm reefer and the HF inverter is that the package
cost was less than 200$. 

Matt
--
And the downside is, it doesn't work :)

My PO put a new Norcold in a couple or three years before I bought the coach. So far, so good. However, I dry camp twice a year in Charlotte, and I can run the genset for that one. With the snorkel I made. Consequently, I get by on one marine battery and a truck battery.
My cpncept of 'roughing it' means a black n white TV.

--johnny

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Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons. Braselton, Ga. I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
Re: House bank charging issue [message #220051 is a reply to message #219990] Mon, 26 August 2013 22:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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Stick a diode in series in the sense line and the alternator will run .6 or .7 volts higher on the output. You could put a switch across the diode to turn it off if needed. If you are worried about reliability, use 2 diodes in parallel. You could also use an LED across the diode to tell you when it is off or on.

Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: House bank charging issue [message #220062 is a reply to message #220051] Mon, 26 August 2013 23:03 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto is currently offline  A Hamilto   United States
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Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 26 August 2013 22:10

Stick a diode in series in the sense line and the alternator will run .6 or .7 volts higher on the output. You could put a switch across the diode to turn it off if needed. If you are worried about reliability, use 2 diodes in parallel. You could also use an LED across the diode to tell you when it is off or on.
If you do that, put a diode in the line to the chassis battery to drop the voltage to it and keep from boiling the electrolyte out of it.

You want to boost the voltage to the house bank only, and leave the voltage to the chassis battery alone.
Re: House bank charging issue [message #220073 is a reply to message #220062] Tue, 27 August 2013 03:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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A Hamilto wrote on Mon, 26 August 2013 23:03

Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 26 August 2013 22:10

Stick a diode in series in the sense line and the alternator will run .6 or .7 volts higher on the output. You could put a switch across the diode to turn it off if needed. If you are worried about reliability, use 2 diodes in parallel. You could also use an LED across the diode to tell you when it is off or on.
If you do that, put a diode in the line to the chassis battery to drop the voltage to it and keep from boiling the electrolyte out of it.

You want to boost the voltage to the house bank only, and leave the voltage to the chassis battery alone.


That probably is not necessary since his charging voltage is only 13.2 to 13.6. We normally expect the charging voltage for an engine driven alternator to run 13.8 to 14.2.

Keep in mind that the engine driven alternator is not a long term charger. It normally runs higher voltages than a converter because it is not present except short periods of time (8 hours at most) to recharge batteries more quickly. A converter charging voltage could be present for days, or weeks, or months.

I suggest that people keep your suggestion in mind and only use it if they find their engine battery using excessive amounts of water. In Matt's case I do not think that will happen.

Ken B.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: House bank charging issue [message #220091 is a reply to message #220051] Tue, 27 August 2013 10:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 26 August 2013 23:10

Stick a diode in series in the sense line and the alternator will run .6 or .7 volts higher on the output. You could put a switch across the diode to turn it off if needed. If you are worried about reliability, use 2 diodes in parallel. You could also use an LED across the diode to tell you when it is off or on.

Ken,

That is a good and workable plan, I like the multiple diodes and LED with switch even better.

The engine battery is a bit of a worry. It is one of the "maintenance proof" version and I can't get the caps off without breaking something.

I think I will grab my clamp and measure the current in the sense lead.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: House bank charging issue [message #220149 is a reply to message #219990] Tue, 27 August 2013 20:59 Go to previous message
wally is currently offline  wally   United States
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Matt, These guys have a variety of regulators with different setpoints from 13.2 to 14.8.
http://www.weblube.com/10SI-regulators2.html
and
http://store.alternatorparts.com/voltageregulator.aspx
We have a 7157 Duralast from Autozone that apparently has a 14.8 in it. It's OK except if its cold out and it goes high enough to trip the inverter with the engine running.
Matt Colie wrote on Mon, 26 August 2013 11:39

For the past 6 years, we didn't have a problem.
We only traveled in the spring and fall and usually drove for 10~12 hours a day and stopped at the rally ground where we had shore power. That or we did weekend trips that were not a problem.

Now we are doing leisurely travel in the summer, our under-counter size refrigerator (all you can fit in a 23's reefer hole) is a power hungry monster if it is over 70° and we can't keep the house bank up with an alternator that tops out at 13.6 and drops to 13.2 when the bank is less than 50%. Even then, it is push near 90 amps, but the regulator (even the new one) cuts it down too soon.

Does anybody have a plan to push the exist 10SI alternator to higher to a voltage out so that I can use nearly the machine's capability?

If I can do this, I could do with a lot less APU time during an excursion like the last.

Please,
Don't suggest an absorption refrigerator unless you are going to give me one. Even then, I have to talk Mary out of the extra storage freezer volume that we now have. If I had the ~1K$us to spend on it, I would replace the Norcold with another. The charm of the cheap dorm reefer and the HF inverter is that the package cost was less than 200$.

Matt



Wally Anderson
Omaha NE
75 Glenbrook
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