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| Re: Installing Duracool [message #219499 is a reply to message #219495] |
Wed, 21 August 2013 19:51   |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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That all sounds good so far. Install the Duracool and you should be good to go.
I have a major leak in mine and have not found it yet. I keep looking for it but nothing so far.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Installing Duracool [message #219513 is a reply to message #219499] |
Wed, 21 August 2013 21:44 |
roy1
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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| Ken Burton wrote on Wed, 21 August 2013 17:51 |
That all sounds good so far. Install the Duracool and you should be good to go.
I have a major leak in mine and have not found it yet. I keep looking for it but nothing so far.
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Put a few ounces of 22,12,134 etc and pressurize it with nitrogen or co2 to 150-200 psi and leak check check it with your electronic leak detector then soap bubbles. Good chance it is the shaft seal. Don't over look the possibility of porous rubber hoses.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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| Re: Installing Duracool [message #219521 is a reply to message #219513] |
Thu, 22 August 2013 00:13 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Already done that. I have also have dye in it. What I have not done is pull the clutch off of the compressor to look at the front seal.
I am suspecting that is where I'll find the problem.
What amazes me is I have not a found a trace of a leak either with the dye or the leak detector. I can pull vacuum on it and it will bleed down from 28 to 18 in about 15 minutes. With that large of a leak one would think I could find it easily under pressure.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Installing Duracool [message #219522 is a reply to message #219521] |
Thu, 22 August 2013 01:14 |
roy1
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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Pulling the clutch will make it easier to check the shaft seal. With a couple of hundred pounds of nitrogen I have almost always found a leak especially in a small system even with the clutch in place. My better leak detector is a GE H10. 120 volt unit that was mostly designed for leak checking centrifugal systems it actually has a nice sucking ability to find small leaks. If the leak is in the evaporator it can be tougher to find but with the high pressure added the leak should be a lot easer to find especially if you give it a little time to leak out. You may have to open the metal cover to check the evap more closely. Take your time and move slowly and don't forget the gauges are usually a source of a leak also when you are trying to trace out the leak. So very often I disconnect them after I pressurize the system with the nitrogen.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
[Updated on: Thu, 22 August 2013 01:33] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Installing Duracool [message #219554 is a reply to message #219524] |
Thu, 22 August 2013 12:50 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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| ljdavick wrote on Thu, 22 August 2013 01:46 |
Ken,
If it turns out to be your front seal and you choose to replace it I’ll send you my seal tool kit. It makes quick work of the job. Also - I’ve replaced my ceramic seal with a double-lip seal. If you get that far into it I’ll pull up my notes. I believe I bought the double lip seal from Amazon.
Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, CA
On Aug 21, 2013, at 10:13 PM, Ken Burton wrote:
> Already done that. I have also have dye in it. What I have not done is pull the clutch off of the compressor to look at the front seal.
>
> I am suspecting that is where I'll find the problem.
>
> What amazes me is I have not a found a trace of a leak either with the dye or the leak detector. I can pull vacuum on it and it will bleed down from 28 to 18 in about 15 minutes. With that large of a leak one would think I could find it easily under pressure.
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
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Thanks Larry, I'll keep that in mind. I'm not sure at this point when I'll get back to looking at it. I need to refill the nitrogen tank also have another oxygen tank to take it.
Right now I have higher priority projects. I'm trying to fix my John Deere tractor mounted tiller. I'm waiting for parts to arrive from Dallas. I have some fancy lathe and welding work to do on the drive shaft to save a $400 part.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Installing Duracool [message #219590 is a reply to message #219521] |
Fri, 23 August 2013 07:23 |
Erv Troyer
Messages: 125
Registered: February 2004
Location: Lagrange, IN
Karma: 0
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Ken Burton wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What amazes me is I have not a found a trace of a leak either with the dye or the leak detector. I can pull vacuum on it and it will bleed down from 28 to 18 in about 15 minutes. With that large of a leak one would think I could find it easily under pressure.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
There might be such a thing as a joint that will leak under vacuum, but closes up when you pressurize it.
When I was in the custom truck sleeper business we had a truck that would leak under vacuum. I pressurized it with refrigerant and went over the whole system several times with the electronic leak detector. Also doped all joints with Leak-Tec (bubble stuff) and nothing showed up. I finally just charged the system and crossed my fingers. The customer was back several months later and said the AC was working fine.
Erv Troyer Lagrange, IN
74 Sequoia
reo43@aol.com
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| Re: Installing Duracool [message #219603 is a reply to message #219590] |
Fri, 23 August 2013 10:58 |
roy1
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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| Erv Troyer wrote on Fri, 23 August 2013 05:23 |
Ken Burton wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What amazes me is I have not a found a trace of a leak either with the dye or the leak detector. I can pull vacuum on it and it will bleed down from 28 to 18 in about 15 minutes. With that large of a leak one would think I could find it easily under pressure.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
There might be such a thing as a joint that will leak under vacuum, but closes up when you pressurize it.
When I was in the custom truck sleeper business we had a truck that would leak under vacuum. I pressurized it with refrigerant and went over the whole system several times with the electronic leak detector. Also doped all joints with Leak-Tec (bubble stuff) and nothing showed up. I finally just charged the system and crossed my fingers. The customer was back several months later and said the AC was working fine.
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If your Gage's were still connected during the test it could have been the leak.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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| Re: Installing Duracool [message #219680 is a reply to message #219590] |
Sat, 24 August 2013 02:27 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Erv Troyer wrote on Fri, 23 August 2013 07:23 |
Ken Burton wrote:
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What amazes me is I have not a found a trace of a leak either with the dye or the leak detector. I can pull vacuum on it and it will bleed down from 28 to 18 in about 15 minutes. With that large of a leak one would think I could find it easily under pressure.
<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
There might be such a thing as a joint that will leak under vacuum, but closes up when you pressurize it.
When I was in the custom truck sleeper business we had a truck that would leak under vacuum. I pressurized it with refrigerant and went over the whole system several times with the electronic leak detector. Also doped all joints with Leak-Tec (bubble stuff) and nothing showed up. I finally just charged the system and crossed my fingers. The customer was back several months later and said the AC was working fine.
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I've seen that but this is not the case here. I threw one can of Duracool in it and 3 days later when I attached the gauges again it was back at ZERO.
I really believe it is the seal behind the clutch. I can not see it there but you would think that I would able to sniff it. I put about 12 OZ of R-134 and charged the rest with nitrogen to a little over 100 PSI. Again nothing on the sniffer but a few days later it was empty again. It is there somewhere, I just need to find it.
I was out over your direction tonight. I was helping a GMCer that blew an engine on US 30 near Warsaw. He ended up towing it home about 80 miles.
Thanks for the ideas Erv.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Installing Duracool [message #219758 is a reply to message #219680] |
Sat, 24 August 2013 13:16 |
roy1
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Increase the pressure a bit higher that big a leak should have been fairly easy to find. Possibly your leak detector isn't sensitive enough? Sometimes you get luckier on the next try. If you still can't find it after a thorough leak check your suggestion of removing the clutch and spraying the shaft with soap bubbles would be good.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
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| Re: Installing Duracool [message #219827 is a reply to message #219758] |
Sun, 25 August 2013 00:51 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Roy. I need to refill the nitrogen tank before I do more. I also have an oxygen tank that needs refilling. I'll take them both in before I proceed.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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